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(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!


By Supersunny76

1 year ago



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  • 239 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by chas10e
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There are 239 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 1 year ago

Set your slope to 6%. Maybe even 6.5%. F2K is a fast game.

For stock bulbs use #47s.

To drive LEDs you need an Alltek lamp board.

#152 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Nice one guys!
On the coin door ive two buttons, clear memory
And test.
I guess clear memory.. well..clears memory?(haven't pressed this)
Ive pressed the test button and all displayed showned
111111111 but then its crashes F2k
Tried is again.. and then same..crashes after it displays 111111111
On the displays.. ... i tested the points ie.. 3000 points..(see pic)
But on pressed on the playfield it doesn't register 3000 points..just in the hundreds...is that normal.. or is it when it on multiplier?
I've now downloaded and printed a manual . Will read though this.
Am sure my mpu is set to the setting inside the the back box..(has a default screen inside)
What level should f2k be in terms of pitch and legs?
I thinks mines abit flat... ive seen a few videos and i looks to play faster..(am sure the dead rubbers aren't helping either)
Been looking on online for leds...what bulbs does f2k take? Stock and led?need to reduce the heat

The leds need a resistors ive been told..the would take ages to solder on each light bulb? Any quicker..easier methods?
Want to reduce the heat too. The back glass has seen better days..but ill leave it original. What's the best way to maintain what i have on the back glass as its flaky? Some sort a clear sealer?
Thank you guys... your all legends! [quoted image]

Oh boy! This doesn't sound good if the game crashes when going into self test. This one is beyond my capability. The only thing I can think to check is the solder tabs under the test button, could be shorting on the coin door frame. Or a short in wire harness from the coin door. You might have to google this or hope some smarter people see this lol.

I see many lamps out on your game. Often times, when games sit for a long time, just twisting the bulb will make it light up. That's usually just a temporary fix though. The big problem is that the lamp sockets have aged and the insulator between the base of the socket and the solder tab have dried up and causes the connection between the bulb and the solder tab become weak. Sometimes cleaning the socket will help. There are some tools for this from most pin part suppliers. But in reality you will end up replacing the sockets. F2k uses #44 bayonet style lamps. You can also use #47 lamps that burn a little dimmer but emit less heat. If you want to use LED lamps you can add the resistors, but like you said it would be very time consuming. The quick but expensive alternative is to use a Alltek LED/lamp driver board. They run between $99 and $119 USD. Using this board, there are special instructions for Stern games with speech so you need to read instructions thoroughly.

Or there's this option too, but sell out fast. Somebody on Pinside was selling these but I can't find them now.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MB-07-010

I'm not sure about the 3000 pt stand up target, yes it could be multiplier related or different from 3 ball to 5 ball games. I know some games award less points on 5 ball setting.

You can pitch the game per your liking, there's no standard. I have seen guys lower the front legs and raise the rear legs all the way up and make the game even higher by adding wood under the rear legs. But that's extreme. The important thing is to level the game from side to side.

#154 1 year ago

Although, if you go with the Alltek, you will have a new board with no issues and solve the LED flicker at the same time.

#155 1 year ago

Trough switches will cause the game to eject 2 balls as someone earlier mentioned. I found on mine that when a ball is kicked to the shooter lane, the balls behind it will roll backwards just a bit. If the switch under these is 'barely pressed' when ball is on it then when it rolls back it comes off the switch for a moment...once it settles back on the switch the game thinks you plunged without scoring any points and kicks out another ball. I had to tweak the trip wire so it closed the switch sooner and stayed closed during that slight rollback. Mine was the first switch so only happened when no balls were locked in the walker, but either switch could cause this theoretically. Hope that made any sense. Good luck with this great game.

#156 1 year ago

Makes perfect sense.. i haven't had time to look at the mirco switches but i think ones bent too back .. but ill update you guys on my finding...

My friend txt me today and said what you up too.. i said selling bags of soil.. he said..whattt? People actually buy bags of soil? I laughed lol

Sold 120 bags today.. not at great cost.. but get my drive car ports done for free.. instead of dropping 2.5k lol...
My missus says ive alot of patience.. I guess when I work on something and before I start losing my Focus I tend to walk away and come back the next day... solves alot of problems..and always find a solution ..and it always works out i find... ohh and shit loads of beer too
Thanks guys.. this threads been quite the journey. Hope it helps anyone else in years to come

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#157 1 year ago

Selling bags of soil, love it. Anyone want used playfield glass? Its tempered...would make good shelving. I have 3 sheets.

Following your progress; pinball and driveway.

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Makes perfect sense.. i haven't had time to look at the mirco switches but i think ones bent too back .. but ill update you guys on my finding...
My friend txt me today and said what you up too.. i said selling bags of soil.. he said..whattt? People actually buy bags of soil? I laughed lol
Sold 120 bags today.. not at great cost.. but get my drive car ports done for free.. instead of dropping 2.5k lol...
My missus says ive alot of patience.. I guess when I work on something and before I start losing my Focus I tend to walk away and come back the next day... solves alot of problems..and always find a solution ..and it always works out i find... ohh and shit loads of beer too
Thanks guys.. this threads been quite the journey. Hope it helps anyone else in years to come
[quoted image]

I've always wanted to try an English pint.

#159 1 year ago

Come to the uk buddy!

My local pub.. or (boozer) is a well know pub called Pardos. Of which they made the links for and titanic and the anchor too. They have pictures inside the pub at all different stages of the construction.

Its from an old mining town in the black country ..(very old town of which they mined coal) we have a museum called the black country museum of which theres old streets...pubs.. metal iron mongers etc.. . kept just like a time machine..frozen in time.

https://www.bclm.co.uk

Theres lots of ales and beers here.. most are in the countryside... and i try to drink them all haha

#160 1 year ago

when you first press the test button, the manual says "all outputs tested" https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

2'nd press is a lamp test/
3rd press displays (only)
4'th press solenoids (only)
5'th press switches

I think you can isolate what's resetting the MPU by quicker button presses.

when I first got mine a tech told me to replace both big capacitors on the solenoid driver board as their rated life is only about 10 years. one of them is for the displays(high voltage section). http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#hv

hope this helps some

#161 1 year ago

Just like the displays, the solder connections on the solenoid driver board are likely cracked(cold) and need to be reheated. All kinds of weird shit can happen when they are like this

#162 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The speech board part number is VSU-100. It uses a chip that may have gone bad. The chip is obsolete. I bought one as a spare from a reseller for my Catacomb.
He had 14 is so in stock before we started buying him out. I don’t know if he has any left or not.
I’ll check my records for info when I get home.

I told you about a chip for your VSU-100 speech board. Here is the info.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/catacomb-club?tq=&tu=gkw

See posts by pinsider GKW. Look at posts # 415, #419, and post #485

#485 gives you this link for a S14001A speech synthesizer.

http://www.gameroomrepair.com/ICparts/ICparts.htm#S14001

It looks like he still has some in stock. I bought my 2 chips and another UK contact also bought. But I got mine cheaper. The seller figured a rin was on and raised his prices to my UK friend.

Once you get it all together and if have no speech this is probably going to be what you need.

#163 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

For the flickering displays you probably have cracked solder connections at the .156" header pins. a few of mine were like that too. I just fixed a couple more 7 digit displays this morning with the same problem. I prefer to use a desoldering tool to remove much of the old solder first then resolder those pins.
Also check the pins for the display glass too. I've had to resolder some of those as well.
As long as the glass display panel itself is ok those aren't too bad to repair.

Just some photos of the light board and displays.
Yup..your right..the pins and display pins have seen better days.. ive pulled everything out.. and will try to re solder the pins when i get a chance and post my findings...

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#164 1 year ago

Hi dudes!

Ok ill go straight to it... re soldered all the points on the displays
..but same thing.. mmm
2 work fine... bottom right..and bottom centre ..credit display....

The other three are score points... and bottom left is garbled...

Ive order some parts.... i saw on YouTube a guy called geo... flight 2000 diplay flickering ...same issue ..took a punt and ordered the same chips (see pic) ordered 5(i checked my cables and swapped displays too)

Also the seats for the chips(ensuring if the need swapping out again)

The sound board...ive ordered the caps for sb 300 .. ill on ebay... the ones looked toasted and wanted to bullet proof the sound card...

Ordered some...
New balls x 3
New rubber kit
New chips for the displays x 5
New display chip seats for display x 20
New led 1 x 200 warm white
470 ohm resistors
New sb 300. Chip x 2

Just in the last hour.. i booted up the Fk2 and checked the sound again... disconnected the cable ribbons from the machine.. etc... then i found this on pinside.. a chip that may have gone faulty... says to remove the chip(see pic) and see if it boots... and for the first time..(with the sound board connected and plugged in.. it booted and passed 7 flashes.
..so ive ordered another chip...(see pic)

Ok..that's me done for the night.. planning to add leds when they arrive.. and work around the connectors and how toos

Ok beer time lol

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#165 1 year ago

Did you try moving the score displays to different positions to see if the problem followed the display or if it was specific to the slot (player) instead? Just to rule out any connector issues.

#166 1 year ago

I did dude,
The fault carried over to the next display ruling out the connectors... hopefully the chips will fix the issue..

I tried to pick up flicker led kits from the USA but couldn't get any shipping.. but found a place in the Netherlands..see pic

Also some leds.. am not sure how long these will last but found some on amazon(amazon great return policy if there crap) but should be ok

The price was very good so ordered 200 pcs (see pic)
Does anyone know how many bulbs Flight 2000 takes?

I think... if the displays chips work..
Chips and caps for the sb300
And the led adaptors and leds(easy plug and play)

Just leaves the speech board...and well.. thats it...

What you think guys...

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#167 1 year ago

Do the specs on those LEDs say anything about them working in AC as well as DC circuits?

If they're just for auto they will likely be DC only and these pinballs have the lamp sockets wired opposite to car lamp sockets so they won't work in the feature lamps. In the GI lamps they will flicker because they wont switch on during both AC positive and negative phases.

Note, these 5 SMD LEDs can run just as hot as standard incadescent lamps.

#168 1 year ago

Ahh crapp!!

Amazon has already dispatched... the description says...

100Pcs 6V 6.3V T4W H6W T11 BA9S 5SMD 5050 LED Auto Car LED Side Wedge Light Bulb

Note:

The colors deviation might differ due to different monitor settings.

We provide you with the best product and service, if you have any problem, please let us know, and we will solve the problem ASAP.

Thank you so much.

Ive sent a question to the seller if . Do these run od AC and DC current? Do you have a data sheet or specifaction to the leds?

thanks buddy.!
Good old amazon returns if there wrong

#169 1 year ago

Hopefully these LEDs will work in AC and DC conditions.

#170 1 year ago

I use Cointaker LED's in all my games. They have many options and colors. I can't see why they wouldn't ship to the UK. Give them a try. Cointaker.com

I use the mini for the switched lamps and I color match them to the inserts. For GI, I use the warm white retro bulbs. The GI lamps on F2K are mounted low, midway below the playfield surface, so you need to be careful of the bulbs you select. Some of the LED's on the market may have toppers that are too wide to the fit the GI lamp holes of the PF.

#171 1 year ago

Nice one cheers dudes!
Soldered on the caps on the sound board last night...
Just waiting on the chip MC6840 to fit

Also the display chips

#172 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Oh boy! This doesn't sound good if the game crashes when going into self test. This one is beyond my capability. The only thing I can think to check is the solder tabs under the test button, could be shorting on the coin door frame. Or a short in wire harness from the coin door. You might have to google this or hope some smarter people see this lol.
I see many lamps out on your game. Often times, when games sit for a long time, just twisting the bulb will make it light up. That's usually just a temporary fix though. The big problem is that the lamp sockets have aged and the insulator between the base of the socket and the solder tab have dried up and causes the connection between the bulb and the solder tab become weak. Sometimes cleaning the socket will help. There are some tools for this from most pin part suppliers. But in reality you will end up replacing the sockets. F2k uses #44 bayonet style lamps. You can also use #47 lamps that burn a little dimmer but emit less heat. If you want to use LED lamps you can add the resistors, but like you said it would be very time consuming. The quick but expensive alternative is to use a Alltek LED/lamp driver board. They run between $99 and $119 USD. Using this board, there are special instructions for Stern games with speech so you need to read instructions thoroughly.
Or there's this option too, but sell out fast. Somebody on Pinside was selling these but I can't find them now.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MB-07-010
I'm not sure about the 3000 pt stand up target, yes it could be multiplier related or different from 3 ball to 5 ball games. I know some games award less points on 5 ball setting.
You can pitch the game per your liking, there's no standard. I have seen guys lower the front legs and raise the rear legs all the way up and make the game even higher by adding wood under the rear legs. But that's extreme. The important thing is to level the game from side to side.

Hi guys.
Am still digging away that drive. Lol
But removed lots...and it keeps selling..lol

Ok quick update..
The display chips arrived today.. and as always.. i couldn't wait to install them....so i soldered on the seat.. and them inserted the chip on the display...and..?.....same issue.. flickering display...

So i swapped the displays..and now have the same issue on a (working display)..i checked the connectors..and there all.seated fine.. pins have been soldered before...

Forgive me if am wrong but i think and the issue cud be simpler.. .. like the mpu...(i thinking maybe... maybe a new altek board.. and maybe.... (even thou ive brought a led flicker kit on the way a light board too.

I cant raise the funds yet.. lots of work outside etc ...but am may go that route

But now... strangely the test now works... it circles through the displays...

Strange things

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#173 1 year ago

Its probably not a MPU issue since the problem follows the actual display with the problem. It may be the plasma display itself could be gassing out. In other words going dead. I know you have a new power supply but check the output voltage to the displays at the solenoid driver. Not sure what the test points are at the moment. You should have over 200 volts unregulated going to the sol board and about 185v coming out to the displays. Check pinwiki for the test points. Be careful there as you can short something with the test leads there. You should have an adjuster there to raise or lower the volts to the displays. It's usually a black or blue variable resistor pot under the plastic shield. Some have a small hole to allow tool in for adjustments.

#174 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Its probably not a MPU issue since the problem follows the actual display with the problem. It may be the plasma display itself could be gassing out. In other words going dead. I know you have a new power supply but check the output voltage to the displays at the solenoid driver. Not sure what the test points are at the moment. You should have over 200 volts unregulated going to the sol board and about 185v coming out to the displays. Check pinwiki for the test points. Be careful there as you can short something with the test leads there. You should have an adjuster there to raise or lower the volts to the displays. It's usually a black or blue variable resistor pot under the plastic shield. Some have a small hole to allow tool in for adjustments.

Great stuff! Ill check that out

The solenoid still has the original caps...(two i think) would it be an idea to replace them?

Not sure of the values.

Also. When playing F2.. if two balls are locked....and start a new game.. the game spits out 1 ball as it should... but when a lose that ball... (now i would be on my second ball) the game doesn't spit out the ball i lost(ball one) ..any ideas....?

Thanks as always

#175 1 year ago

Ill check the headers on the solenoid as none of that board as been repinned at all..

which headers go to which part of the game...ie displays..playfield..cheers1

#176 1 year ago

If you have a chance checkout the PinWiki entry for the old Bally and Stern games:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Board_Issues

At the very least add the extra jumper on the back of the driver board to tie the two 5v lines together. You'll also want to check for cracked solder joints at the headers. I usually remove most of the old solder, use a small wire brush on a Drexel tool or fiberglass eraser to clean off oxidation, and resolder those pins.

Most of the boards the high voltage cap for the displays tests fine but I change the large one for the main 5v supply with a fresh one.

These posts show how I add the jumpers to the back of the various versions of the driver boards. There are three that I add. The red for the 5v and the two black fir ground.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4697461

#177 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Great stuff! Ill check that out
The solenoid still has the original caps...(two i think) would it be an idea to replace them?
Not sure of the values.
Also. When playing F2.. if two balls are locked....and start a new game.. the game spits out 1 ball as it should... but when a lose that ball... (now i would be on my second ball) the game doesn't spit out the ball i lost(ball one) ..any ideas....?
Thanks as always

This might be why the trough was redesigned on later f2k. Sounds like a switch error. Make sure the ball is closing the trough or out hole switch. Switch might need cleaning with alcohol.

#178 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Great stuff! Ill check that out
The solenoid still has the original caps...(two i think) would it be an idea to replace them?
Not sure of the values.
Also. When playing F2.. if two balls are locked....and start a new game.. the game spits out 1 ball as it should... but when a lose that ball... (now i would be on my second ball) the game doesn't spit out the ball i lost(ball one) ..any ideas....?
Thanks as always

Does the bonus points score/count down when that ball falls out?

#179 1 year ago

hi guys, right, been some issues since ive lasted posted.

My mpu ..(since it was fixed, ) when turned on,...it would take 3 on offs to get it to boot once...(7 flashes)

This got increasing worse...ie 1 in 5 and so on...(turn on..and offs)..

Then it started to lock complete , flickering led..or solid light...

then...i shot gunned it!...!..(didnt have to heart to keep messing with it...

and picked up a alltek mpu! ( ill store the old mpu as stock even swap it out to test , still gives 6 flashes on test bench)

it fixed the led displays in terms of the numbers, (flicker still there but you can see the whole score now)
fixed the ball lock in the BLAST OFF , Apollo 1 and Apollo 2
fixed the game if 2 balls are locked from a previous game ( upper right ) and credit up a new game to uses the last ball
(am not sure if this can be changed on the dip switch ?)

working fine for 2 days. but.............

this morning , i went to have a quick play...and when in game...the ball hits a few bumpers...scores points..all fine...
then the light comes on for (tilt) and the ball drains.
then spits out another ball...and same issue again on 2nd and 3rd ball....

thanks guys...

oh..and that soil nearly all gone...hopefully by the weekend

work#family#soil#pinball#vw resto# lol

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from swillie:

Does the bonus points score/count down when that ball falls
out?

is does buddy

#181 1 year ago

Help!! Game now wont boot!!

When powered on,mpu flashes 7 times on the alltek board (during this the top kickers flip as in search mode)
And after 7 flashes the games just turns on a few play field lights.

Ive checked all the pins on the mpu
Sound card and speech are unplugged
Tested all the test points for voltages. All ok

Now won't boot.... losing the battle on this one ...
Help... !!

#182 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Help!! Game now wont boot!!
When powered on,mpu flashes 7 times on the alltek board (during this the top kickers flip as in search mode)
And after 7 flashes the games just turns on a few play field lights.
Ive checked all the pins on the mpu
Sound card and speech are unplugged
Tested all the test points for voltages. All ok
Now won't boot.... losing the battle on this one ...
Help... !!

Sounds like mpu not getting correct input voltage from solenoid driver. I suggested you check that earlier. Mpu needs 5 v for logic and 12 v to run. Voltage regulator probably bad on solenoid driver. Double check output voltages at power supply too.

#183 1 year ago

You have a v dub and and F2K? Man you are asking for trouble lol. So I just re-read your last few posts. I got confused because you said the alltek won't boot but yet got 7 flashes. What you mean is that the game will not go into attract mode with the alltek now? So, F2K will kick out the locked balls in the upper maze (apollo area) before game goes into attract. It will not go into attract until all 3 balls fall into the trough, BUT, the balls must register the switches at the trough or the game will be looking for them and never go into attract mode. Also double check your dip switch settings on the Alltek 1 thru 8, make sure they are set for F2K per directions. On Stern games, I think there's timer jumper setting as well.

Game showing tilt if it was not manually tilted means you have switch error. If you can get the game to start, try this, manually close switches until the game tilts. Take note of the last switch closed before tilt lights up. Have you done the switch self test via the coin door test switch yet? Refer to manual for this. All balls must be removed from the game and all drop targets must be up. Post results here if you find any closed-stuck switches on testing.

#184 1 year ago

Ok dudes.

So i shotgun'd the solenoid board too, i thought am keeping it..and wanted a trouble free pinball..(i wish)

Heres a vid of what the pinballs doing

Same issue..

Balls in place.. 7 lights.. all voltages fine on new alltek solenoid board.

Fuses and headers all new..
Turns on..but just lights up play field and gi lights....(help)


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#185 1 year ago

The only thing that can think of is the tilt switches. You said before that the game was getting random tilts? Try to isolate the tilt switches one by one while trying to boot the game. But first make sure the white buttons inside the coin door are not stuck closed. They could be dirty causing them to stick. Visible check the tilt bob and the metal roller ball if present. Also where the tilt bob is, there is a capacitor, clip it, it could be shorted. You don't need it in a home use game, unless you're playing tournament style or just fussy about keeping the game original. If that's the case, you can just replace it. The fact hat you have random lamps lighting on the playfield are strange. Should all be out during boot process. So something is amiss.

You can also eliminate coin door errors by unplugging the coin door connector. The game will boot without it, but you won't be able to start a game. I'm sorry this is out of sequence but I'm thinking of things as I type. Did you add the LED's already? You could have disturbed something under the playfield while you installed them. If you installed the jumper wire for the Alltek lamp driver, take a pic of where you connected it to the switched bus wiring please.

#186 1 year ago

The top switch in my lock mechanism is very temperamental. Registers one game and then not the next, killing the game as you can’t nudge the ball out due to the shape of the wireform on the switch. Switch is clean and has good connection, but has always been touchy and now worse. Ya anyone had this issue or modified the switch wire for these reasons?

#187 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

The top switch in my lock mechanism is very temperamental. Registers one game and then not the next, killing the game as you can’t nudge the ball out due to the shape of the wireform on the switch. Switch is clean and has good connection, but has always been touchy and now worse. Ya anyone had this issue or modified the switch wire for these reasons?

I would replace that switch. Maybe the contacts are worn out. I had 4 F2K's so far, none of them had that issue.

#188 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The only thing that can think of is the tilt switches. You said before that the game was getting random tilts? Try to isolate the tilt switches one by one while trying to boot the game. But first make sure the white buttons inside the coin door are not stuck closed. They could be dirty causing them to stick. Visible check the tilt bob and the metal roller ball if present. Also where the tilt bob is, there is a capacitor, clip it, it could be shorted. You don't need it in a home use game, unless you're playing tournament style or just fussy about keeping the game original. If that's the case, you can just replace it. The fact hat you have random lamps lighting on the playfield are strange. Should all be out during boot process. So something is amiss.
You can also eliminate coin door errors by unplugging the coin door connector. The game will boot without it, but you won't be able to start a game. I'm sorry this is out of sequence but I'm thinking of things as I type. Did you add the LED's already? You could have disturbed something under the playfield while you installed them. If you installed the jumper wire for the Alltek lamp driver, take a pic of where you connected it to the switched bus wiring please.

Cheers buddy.

I powered up the game with the coin door detached(see video)

Has the same look as before buddy

I haven't installed the LEDs yet or the new rubbers.
The mpu is a new alltek
The solenoid board is a new alltek
The lamp driver board is original(have the anti flicker adaptor kit too..but not installed yet)

Yes your right.. before when the game did boot it would tilt.. help.. i do not know where the switches are for the tilt play field ..or where to locate them..

Ill check the plump kit when i get a chance ,still a novice on how too remove a cap...and where to locate it?
Sorry the pic is poor.. i screen grabbed it from a video i made. I can upload another when i get a chance
Cheers dudes

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#189 1 year ago

Pic is fine. So coin door switches and wiring should be good. Pins typically have about 5 tilt switches. Also known as slam switches. On this last pic you posted, there's the plumb bob tilt. Right next to it is a brown disc capacitor. They are used to aid the switch matrix because the switch is hit very fast and sometimes doesn't register fast enough for the MPU to recognize that the switch was closed momentarily. These caps are pushing 40 years old and they start to fail usually by shorting out. When this happens, it messes up the switch matrix. To remove the cap from the circuit, all you need to do is clip one of the leads. If you are testing the caps and are found to be good, you can just dab some solder on the lead to re-connect it. But like I said, after 40 years it's a good idea to replace them throughout the game.

Oh, so the tilt switches are 1, the tilt bob, 2 the rolling ball next to the tilt bob which is usually wired up with the tilt bob. 3 a small tilt switch next to the plumb bob. 4 ,There's a slam switch on the coin door to prevent people from kicking the game, this will sometimes set off an alarm to alert the op and will reset the game. 5, Some games also have a tilt switch under the playfield. It will have a small weight attached to a leaf switch. You really have to rock the game to set these off though. I don't think F2K has one of those IIRC.

Just for shits and giggles, clip that cap and see what happens. The came can run without it for now. Also try pushing the white self test button on the coin door a few times and see if that does anything. Finally try to do a memory clear on the Alltek MPU, Maunal explains how. Did you set the dip switches 1-32 the same as the original MPU?

#190 1 year ago

I just noticed a weird thing when you switched the game on in the video. The match/ball display lit up all zeros. That shouldn't be. Disconnect it for now, it might be causing an issue.

#191 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pic is fine. So coin door switches and wiring should be good. Pins typically have about 5 tilt switches. Also known as slam switches. On this last pic you posted, there's the plumb bob tilt. Right next to it is a brown disc capacitor. They are used to aid the switch matrix because the switch is hit very fast and sometimes doesn't register fast enough for the MPU to recognize that the switch was closed momentarily. These caps are pushing 40 years old and they start to fail usually by shorting out. When this happens, it messes up the switch matrix. To remove the cap from the circuit, all you need to do is clip one of the leads. If you are testing the caps and are found to be good, you can just dab some solder on the lead to re-connect it. But like I said, after 40 years it's a good idea to replace them throughout the game.
Oh, so the tilt switches are 1, the tilt bob, 2 the rolling ball next to the tilt bob which is usually wired up with the tilt bob. 3 a small tilt switch next to the plumb bob. 4 ,There's a slam switch on the coin door to prevent people from kicking the game, this will sometimes set off an alarm to alert the op and will reset the game. 5, Some games also have a tilt switch under the playfield. It will have a small weight attached to a leaf switch. You really have to rock the game to set these off though. I don't think F2K has one of those IIRC.
Just for shits and giggles, clip that cap and see what happens. The came can run without it for now. Also try pushing the white self test button on the coin door a few times and see if that does anything. Finally try to do a memory clear on the Alltek MPU, Maunal explains how. Did you set the dip switches 1-32 the same as the original MPU?

Ok. Yes the mpu dip switches are the same as the original.

How do i test the resistor brown disc on a mutli meter setting?

I've cut one leg of the resistor off.(see photo)

I've discontented the credit display

I've taken a few more photos of the plumb switches

Alltek memory cleared (see photo)

Same issue buddy.. 7 flashes.. solenoid board all green lights..

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#192 1 year ago

Can you double check the connections for the switch matrix where it plugs into the MPU. Look from broken contacts. The original pins are very brittle and can break at any time. My machine was working fine but started acting up after swapping in another board that I repaired to test. At that moment one of the pins broke. Before I did anything else I carefully installed new pins on that whole connector.

Flight 2000 can act really weird if there are any open connections, missing or shorted diodes, bad caps, or just some random shorted connection.

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can you double check the connections for the switch matrix where it plugs into the MPU. Look from broken contacts. The original pins are very brittle and can break at any time. My machine was working fine but started acting up after swapping in another board that I repaired to test. At that moment one of the pins broke. Before I did anything else I carefully installed new pins on that whole connector.
Flight 2000 can act really weird if there are any open connections, missing or shorted diodes, bad caps, or just some random shorted connection.

Ok too check all the pins that leave to mpu alltek... j connectors? Ok

Too be honest.. i have to reach over the connectors on the far left side of the mpu.. ..knackering work reaching over..lol(maybe beer would help lol). and ill double check each one...ill take my time.. wud it be worth soldering each pin on the the crimp.. to make sure continuity?

I remember it was playing up when one pin on my label mpu3 wasn't connected too.. so ill have a look and check.. and ill post my findings

#194 1 year ago

That's a capacitor, not a resistor. You need a special tester for them to see if they are actually in range of what it's labeled as. But you can check if it's shorted with an ohm meter, 0 ohms equals short. Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you have the same issue with the original MPU-200?

You don't need to solder the wires to the connector. The weak point of the connection is where the one side of the connector touches the header pin. The connectors suffer from corrosion and also lose the spring tension over time. Since you already replaced some connectors, I assume you have a crimp tool? If so, which brand is it? Yellow or red handles?
I'm still suspecting the trough area. If F2K doesn't see all 3 balls, it will not go into attract mode. Since the MPU is showing all 7 flashes, I think you problem is somewhere else. It's possible that one of those trough switches are bad. I remember you had a weird issue before there. Pull the apron off via the 2 screws on top. Observe how the balls react to the switch trip wires. Also if you have micro switches there, ohm them out by manually closing them, they should read 0 ohms when closed. Also ohm them out with the balls resting on the switches. The trip wires may not be fully activated by the balls and could need tweeking.

#195 1 year ago

Hi pal. I had a look on sunday quickly..
Yes not all the mpu crimps were replaced on the top left and bottom left headers the right upper and right lower were changed on mpu.

Here's my crimp tool(see photo)

I did try firing it up.. same issuse.. un hooked the coil door and tried that too. Tried manually pulling down the balls switches and turning it on.. still no joy..

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#196 1 year ago

Sunny, You'll forever have problems until you replace ALL the crimp connectors.

#197 1 year ago

And as I recall the switch matrix is on the top right so the pins for that could be broken and causing the problems. Those are the ones I had problems with.

#198 1 year ago

Ok guys..thanks.. ")

Big love and support from everyone here..

ill meticulously check and pin them again.. and also the lamp driver connectors too..hell..even the solenoid ones too...

Hopefully it'll fix the issue

#200 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

ill meticulously check and pin them again.. and also the lamp driver connectors too..hell..even the solenoid ones too...

When re-pinning the connectors, make sure to give each pin a light tug to make sure it's got a good bite on the wire before sliding it into the housing. Make sure the inner crimp on the connector is grabbing bare wire, and the outer crimp is grabbing the insulation. Also make sure it stays tight in the housing once it's installed, again with a light tug.

Connectors are the source of probably 80-90% of the problems on classic Stern and Bally games i've seen here on pinside. You'll have this fixed soon, I'm sure!

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