(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!


By Supersunny76

7 months ago



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  • Latest reply 31 days ago by Lovef2k
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There are 237 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 5.
#101 6 months ago

2.54 mm = 0.100 inches, so they should be the correct ones.

#102 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

We mentioned TP4 and how to check..is TP1 low too?
Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground

The voltage at TP1 is fine.

Since you've already hooked up J3 to the rectifier board you should now go and measure the voltages on the solenoid driver board - it's the board in the top right of the backbox.
All voltages there are DC. See the nominal solenoid test point voltages here: note TP2 and TP4 are high voltage so be careful.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver.2FRegulator_Test_Point_Values

While you're in the backbox measure the voltages on the MPU board test points too:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#MPU_Test_Point_Values

#103 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

How do I try this i.e. where do I put my multimeter on what settings DC? Then i can rule out the transformer. can try this while I order some chrimps. In uk they have the metric system. Would i be safe to say there 2.54mm?

So ill re pin the mpu. And any other board looking suspect.
We mentioned TP4 and how to check..is TP1 low too?
Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground
I know the rectifer board has lager chrimps.. i get my bits from RS components.
https://uk.rs-online.com.
But want to make sure there the rights ones. Any ideas on the site?(ordered the wrong size once to many times lol
Thanks[quoted image]

Yes it looks like you're on the right track with the connectors. Yes the rectifier board has the same type of connector but is the .156 inch size. Also used on displays and solenoid driver. I would replace the header pins on the MPU as well, at least the bottom left and right just to get started.

#104 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I am just having trouble wrapping my head around the fact that all of the feature light wiring from the back box J3-6 and J1-3 all converge on J1-7 which takes all of the load.

Hmm, I'm looking at a Stern MPU-200 based rectifier board. The feature lamp voltage trace comes from J3-6, goes up to J1-7 then to J1-3. Where do you see them all converge at J1-7?

.

Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. When I restored and reran the wiring on my Big Game I elected to use copper foil tape for all of the feature lights. In my ignorance, I ran all feature lights from one copper foil "circuit". That was a mistake. There almost 50 feature lights and they get a little dim when all are lit up.

This seems normal to me. I've never seen a Bally/Stern in lamp test mode with the full brightness of all lamps being the same as the brightness of very few on lamps, all lamps on are dimmer due to the current strain on the transformer causing the voltage to drop.
If you're concerned the copper foil is an issue, measure the voltage loss across it (when all lamps are on) between the entry point you've soldered the power wire to and at the end of the foil chain. It should be close to zero/negligible voltage loss. Then measure the voltage at the end of the foil with respect to ground and compare it to the voltage at TP1 on the rectifier board. If voltages are about the same when all lamps are on, your copper foil run should be ok - presuming the foil is making good contact with the lamp sockets.

.

Quoted from cottonm4:

While I am doing this, should I split up my GI wiring and run half of the GI on Pin 1-Red and Pin 5-White and the other half to Pin 2-Red and Pin 8-White? Would doing this allow, or cause, the GI bulbs to burn brighter? It sure would be an easy project to set up.

That's what Bally does. Seems like a lot of work to me to do it on your Big Game though. The connectors are the weakest point (hence so many get burnt over time at the rectifier boards) which is why I mentioned to splice the wires and double the crimp terminals for improved connectivity/redundancy.

BTW, are you running LEDs or incandescents?

#105 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hmm, I'm looking at a Stern MPU-200 based rectifier board. The feature lamp voltage trace comes from J3-6, goes up to J1-7 then to J1-3. Where do you see them all converge at J1-7?

Sorry. Bad choice of words. They don't converge on pin J1-7 but all three feed into the same trace on the board that leads to BR 1. So BR 1 is taking all of the load per design. At least, this is what I am thinking. Can I assume that the weak link is all of this is the crimp connector and if the three blue wires were hardwired to their respective pins there would be no current overload issues?

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Quoted from Quench:

This seems normal to me. I've never seen a Bally/Stern in lamp test mode with the full brightness of all lamps being the same as the brightness of very few on lamps, all lamps on are dimmer due to the current strain on the transformer causing the voltage to drop.
If you're concerned the copper foil is an issue, measure the voltage loss across it (when all lamps are on) between the entry point you've soldered the power wire to and at the end of the foil chain. It should be close to zero/negligible voltage loss. Then measure the voltage at the end of the foil with respect to ground and compare it to the voltage at TP1 on the rectifier board. If voltages are about the same when all lamps are on, your copper foil run should be ok - presuming the foil is making good contact with the lamp sockets.

Thanks. I'll try this.

Quoted from Quench:

That's what Bally does. Seems like a lot of work to me to do it on your Big Game though. The connectors are the weakest point (hence so many get burnt over time at the rectifier boards) which is why I mentioned to splice the wires and double the crimp terminals for improved connectivity/redundancy.
BTW, are you running LEDs or incandescents?

OK. I understand now. Thanks. Someone did this action with the GI return wire on my Nine Ball. Now I know what's up. Talking about this stuff helps me to understand it.

I installed all LEDs in the Big Game not long after I had it up and running.

#106 6 months ago

A million thankyous

I've order the necessary crimps. 200 for £5 but will land next week before i can get fixed. Bank holiday easter post.

Between then ill post my findings.
Cheers dude!

#107 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Can I assume that the weak link is all of this is the crimp connector and if the three blue wires were hardwired to their respective pins there would be no current overload issues?

Yes.
See this post which will be of interest - infact BigAl56 comment earlier in the thread about bulbs is interesting too:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/six-million-dollar-man-fitted-with-555-lamps#post-4459732

Quoted from cottonm4:

So BR 1 is taking all of the load per design.

Yep, BR1 runs closer to current capacity and has the higher rate of failure of those three bridges on the rectifier board.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I installed all LEDs in the Big Game not long after I had it up and running.

As you're probably aware LEDs draw less current so they put less strain on the system - note, LEDs with four or more SMDs can consume just as much as an incandescent..

#108 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes.
See this post which will be of interest - infact BigAl56 comment earlier in the thread about bulbs is interesting too:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/six-million-dollar-man-fitted-with-555-lamps#post-4459732

Yep, BR1 runs closer to current capacity and has the higher rate of failure of those three bridges on the rectifier board.

As you're probably aware LEDs draw less current so they put less strain on the system - note, LEDs with four or more SMDs can consume just as much as an incandescent..

Interesting link. Thank you. It almost sounds like I should be hardwiring all of the pins with a pigtail wire and crimping on AMP Mate-n-Loks.

Nice info. on the 4SMD power consumption. I find 2SMD to be bright enough with out being blinding.

#109 6 months ago

Hello guys,

Right.. some interesting developments regarding the mpu 200

I thought id test the mpu using my pc while the mpu is screwed into the back box only to find no flashes or a solid light. Oh great! .... i must of fried something!lol... so i took the board out and bench tested it....now gave back six flashes.....hmmmm...

So i looked back to what was connect to the mpu while in the back box... and it was just the sound board (i think) and the lower broad would be the speech board?

So i disconnected the sound cables..and back to six flashes.

Correct me if this is wrong... but when i would have re pinn the mpu and then have it all connected again... the sound cables would have thrown a spanner of the works..well.. for confusing the mpu not to boot?

Am i guessing i can leave the sound broad disconnected for the time being while we get the machine up and running?

Ive taken some photos of the SB its quite clean.... maybe change out the resistors? Or test first?(no idea how to test it)

Cheers fellas.

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#110 6 months ago

This is common for a MPU not to boot if there's an issue with the sound board. With these Sterns that use the SB-300, those old ribbon cables are usually the culprit. Another thing to watch out for is when connecting the ribbon, it's very easy to place the cable on the header pins and be off by a pin or two. Double check and make sure they are on correctly. The sound board probably doesn't need new resistors, most often the capacitors go bad from age. It's very common to "re-cap" early solid state sound boards. In fact, there are cap kits available. Aaaaaand there's also a replacement SB-300 recently available here:

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

For shits and giggles, try to boot the MPU with the ribbon cables attached. If it doesn't, then try pulling the speech board (VSU-100) cable and see if it boots. This may eliminate one of the two.

#111 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Interesting link. Thank you. It almost sounds like I should be hardwiring all of the pins with a pigtail wire and crimping on AMP Mate-n-Loks.

While hardwiring is going to give you solid connectivity, I'm not suggesting you do it. The link to what Bally did was more a FYI.

May I ask what problem you're trying to fix?

"AMP/TE Connectivity" also make 0.156" connectors - their terminals look better with more surface contact than your standard Molex crimp terminals:
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/3-770476-1-Cut-Strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttKWgNLnZcJpC%252BDDMIV%252BS%252B

I bought some a few years ago but never got round to trying them. If you want closeup pics of the crimp terminals and housings, let me know.

#112 6 months ago

Excellent... ill give that a try.

At the moment am landing down paving in the garden... missus wants a bbq area..lol

Priorities eh!

Thanks again and ill post my findings when i get a chance

#113 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

While hardwiring is going to give you solid connectivity, I'm not suggesting you do it. The link to what Bally did was more a FYI.
May I ask what problem you're trying to fix?

I'm not dealing with problem right now. You have been willing to answer my questions, challenge me when I am wrong, and share your knowledge so I just kept asking. I have learned a lot in these last few posts.

It all started with this:

Quoted from cottonm4:

I understand this right up to the point where J3-6 and J1-3 both splice into J1-7 somewhere on the board where all of the load is concentrated. Seems to me that everything feeds off of J1-7 which will be taking all of the load no matter how the wiring is split up.
I also fail to understand why two blue wires are needed on the play field, other than to prevent the crossover of a bare GI power wire string and a bare feature wire string where some feature lights are surrounded by a cluster of GI lights.
I am still learning this stuff. Anything to help my understanding is always welcome.

I'm interested in knowing what options the MPU-200 Sterns have in the way of rectifier boards. There is the Rottendog--I have one. Barakandi/Weebly is offering completed boards and DYI boards. Are there any other options for these pins?

I do have a rectifier board in one pin that is getting weak. It is only a matter of time and I am leaning toward the Weebly DYI unit.

Quoted from Quench:

"AMP/TE Connectivity" also make 0.156" connectors - their terminals look better with more surface contact than your standard Molex crimp terminals:
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/3-770476-1-Cut-Strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttKWgNLnZcJpC%252BDDMIV%252BS%252B
I bought some a few years ago but never got round to trying them. If you want closeup pics of the crimp terminals and housings, let me know.

I'd love to see close ups. I am always interested in options.

#114 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'm not dealing with problem right now. You have been willing to answer my questions, challenge me when I am wrong, and share your knowledge so I just kept asking. I have learned a lot in these last few posts.
It all started with this:

I'm interested in knowing what options the MPU-200 Sterns have in the way of rectifier boards. There is the Rottendog--I have one. Barakandi/Weebly is offering completed boards and DYI boards. Are there any other options for these pins?
I do have a rectifier board in one pin that is getting weak. It is only a matter of time and I am leaning toward the Weebly DYI unit.

I'd love to see close ups. I am always interested in options.

I would go weebly for rec board. Excellent design.

#115 6 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would go weebly for rec board. Excellent design.

Thanks. I ordered two. Within 15 minutes I was sent a tracking number. That’s fast action.

#116 6 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would go weebly for rec board. Excellent design.

Ditto. barakandl's rectifier board has thick traces and multiple eyelet through holes between back and front board traces.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I'd love to see close ups. I am always interested in options.

FYI, pictures of the "AMP/TE Connectivity" 0.156" (3.96mm) crimp terminals. They come in 3 different spring strengths depending on the application.
I haven't tried them yet and don't know how they compare performance wise over Molex Trifurcons.

IMG_0001a.jpg
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IMG_0019a.jpg

#117 6 months ago

Brilliant. They look like the bizz.!

#118 6 months ago

AMP is *always* better than Molex.

I'll probably be switching over from Molex to AMP now that Molex has moved their operations to India.
Trying to look for those contacts in loose form but AMP's website has had issues all night. Will try again Sat.

#119 6 months ago

Do you have to replace the plug housing also to use AMP connectors? Or will the fit into the Molex housing?

#120 6 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

AMP is *always* better than Molex.
I'll probably be switching over from Molex to AMP now that Molex has moved their operations to India.
Trying to look for those contacts in loose form but AMP's website has had issues all night. Will try again Sat.

I have bought terminals on belts before. They are easy enough to strip down; I would have no prob if you were selling the belted ones.

#121 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have bought terminals on belts before. They are easy enough to strip down; I would have no prob if you were selling the belted ones.

The AMP terminals above are easy to cut off the strip. Molex on a strip are another matter.. A fraction too wide and they won't fit in the housing.

IMG_0084a.jpg
IMG_0024a.jpg

#122 6 months ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Do you have to replace the plug housing also to use AMP connectors? Or will the fit into the Molex housing?

You have to replace the housing, but they're cheap.
Molex housings have internal guides that slot their crimp terminals into position. Those guides block the particular AMP/TE dual wipe terminals pictured above in post #116 from fitting.

The reason I originally purchased these AMP/TE connectors to try was they were cheaper than Molex and I liked the fact they had a flat side that sat along the pin header to provide more surface contact. The AMP/TE website is working now and details on their terminal I listed in post #116 indicate they're rated to 10 amps max.

1 week later
#123 5 months ago

Hi guys..
Sorry ive been so long in my post but been making a driveway for a carport,mounds of earth to be removed but half way done.
Had the crimps sitting in a box for a while, and didnt look forward to re pinning the mpu... but tonight... and after sinking afew beers...i repinned the mpu... fired it up after checking the volts..and a solid red light...

Bollocks!

Was really losing faith here... the sound broad was disconnected previously as mentioned in my last post... just wanted to see if it worked..and sort the sound out after...

Turned it on..off.. on... checked the j plug..leads... and just when i was going to give up... and re sat the header plugs on the mpu...switched it on...

And.....

It worked!!! Now i know you have to place all three balls at the top for attracted mode?? And it worked!!..

I stood for a moment and just stared at the lights and thought..jesus... i got it to work??! (I really given myself 50/50on the project.)

I was so tried to plug the sound board back in and left it for 2moro and start with fresh eyes.

I did play a game but i cudnt...didn't know how to credit up the game... i tried on the coin door.. by clicking the mircoswitches but ended up just picked the ball up and play.....

I was shocked still... i actually played my first game..well kinda..with one ball..the other two locked by the kicker...i tried all the bumpers..and drop targets..all worked... they only any that didnt were a few bulbs.. (led on these i think..any links..ideas?) Also the displays were playing up.. maybe a few resistors?

But am over the moon its moving in the right direction.. very happy!

I turned it off and on again afew times to see if it was a fluke.... it worked everytime... 10 times in a row...

So.... need help on the credit up on these..and led ideas ...oh..and displays fixes

Thanks guys.. you have really really helped... big thankyou to anyone who's replied . And anyone who see theses posts in years to come

#124 5 months ago

Ok my excitement was cut short I thought I'd give it a go this morning it was all working fine had a couple of games but I had to take the ball out at the bottom as the kicker is not working...
so about needs to be fixed but then an hour later

I tried turning it back on he gives me 7 flashes but the balls won't kick it at the top and the game wont boot up any ideas

#125 5 months ago

There will never be a time when the balls are ever in the position they are now in that video. Take them out and put them in the trough by the outhole. Check all your fuses and turn the game on. See what happens.

#126 5 months ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

There will never be a time when the balls are ever in the position they are now in that video. Take them out and put them in the trough by the outhole. Check all your fuses and turn the game on. See what happens.

That is 100% the issue. The kicker is not strong enough to launch 3 balls.

#127 5 months ago

Hi guys.. I've check the fuses on the main board.. all ok..and one under the play field.. that's ok too..(have i missed any?)

Placed the balls at the bottom as next to the kicker.. turned it on.. and the same...

I still have 7 flashes and the voltages are good... any ideas?

#128 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Hi guys.. I've check the fuses on the main board.. all ok..and one under the play field.. that's ok too..(have i missed any?)
Placed the balls at the bottom as next to the kicker.. turned it on.. and the same...
I still have 7 flashes and the voltages are good... any ideas?

What is showing on the displays after the game boots up?

#129 5 months ago

How long are you giving it to boot up? Are all the switches for the three balls working? Are the wires intact and the pins for those ok in the connector shell at the MPU board.

#130 5 months ago

Score is blank.. sometimes it shows zero... am giving the game a 1min.. to 3min.. when it was working.. the top solenoids would fire and kick the balls around the top... it would do that several times.. now it just kicks once... ive re seated the mpu and pins... all solid and connected.. and 7 flashes...

#131 5 months ago

Not just reseat but shine a light in the connector shell for the switch matrix to look fir broken or sprung contacts. Had that problem on mine. Fixed the broken contact then it worked fine. Until another broke. Then I repinned all the pins in that connector and the issues went away. The contacts on some games are brittle and break easily.

#132 5 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Not just reseat but shine a light in the connector shell for the switch matrix to look fir broken or sprung contacts. Had that problem on mine. Fixed the broken contact then it worked fine. Until another broke. Then I repinned all the pins in that connector and the issues went away. The contacts on some games are brittle and break easily.

Switch matrix.. which connector would that be.. ill check.. sorry forgive me.. its been a learning process

#133 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Switch matrix.. which connector would that be.. ill check.. sorry forgive me.. its been a learning process

Should be the upper right on the MPU board.

#134 5 months ago

Amazing... great news
It was a loose pin on the mpu board..
Wasn't fully pushed in. i re crimped it and sat much better and bingo..it went into ball mode...

Tried it afew times and worked!

It was the connector in the bottom left of the mpu.. but yes Robotworkshop for fault finding. Thankyou

Ok...now thats done.. the top bumper fires on the ball with a direct it.. but a slight touch of the ball..it doesn't fire...and peeps have links for bumper rebuilds

The ball kicker doesn't work...doesn't fire the ball in the slingshot puller.... any help...?

And the lcd do displa and work but two flicker... top left ...and bottom right.... the other 3 or perfect...

Honestly i can't believe its working!

Thankyou guys..will post more soon

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#135 5 months ago

Here's the pinball in action..
Playing with one hand.

#136 5 months ago

For the flickering displays you probably have cracked solder connections at the .156" header pins. a few of mine were like that too. I just fixed a couple more 7 digit displays this morning with the same problem. I prefer to use a desoldering tool to remove much of the old solder first then resolder those pins.

Also check the pins for the display glass too. I've had to resolder some of those as well.

As long as the glass display panel itself is ok those aren't too bad to repair.

#137 5 months ago

I'm sorry that I haven't chimed in sooner. I was away for 2 days at a pinball show. I see you are making great progress. It seems to me that this game has sat for many years and that some switches need to be cleaned and/or adjusted. It also appears that the rubbers are shot as well. First start with the upper pop bumper leaf switch under the playfield (PF for short). With game off, use a Q tip and rubbing alcohol. Soak a Q tip in the alcohol and run it between the contacts using slight pressure. NEVER use abrasive cleaners, sand paper or files. This will destroy the gold flashing on the contacts. The gap between the contacts should be approx. 1/16 of an inch (2 MM). With game off, you can slightly bend the leaf blades with a long needle nose type pliers if you don't have an adjusting tool, if it needs adjusting. Also on the pop bumper switch assy there is a plastic (spoon) that the tip of the actuator sits into. The tip of the actuator should be centered in the spoon. Sometimes the tip of the actuator ( or skirt) can be worn down and will not close the switch enough to make contact. Fire up the game and test the pop bumper. Let the ball roll thru the A or S lane and see if the weight of the ball fires the pop bumper. If it doesn't, try adjusting the switch a little closer. You don't want them too close, otherwise vibration from the lower pop bumper will cause the upper switch to close unintentionally. If the upper pop is still firing inconsistently, then you may need need to disassemble the pop bumper and clean or replace the skirt and/or the spring undernieth the skirt. The spring might be rusty or dirty. Then do the same for the ball walker switches. I bet this will get the ball walker to start working again. If you hear a humming sound coming from the ball walker, it may be stuck from sitting. Believe it or not, that thing can be disassembled and lubed if needed. The white plastic bushing can also be replaced. You can take it apart by removing the E clips. Lube with white lithium grease and use sparingly. Also check and make sure the ball walker coil is good, not burnt looking or swelled. Make sure the plunger moves freely.

Replace the dry-rotted rubbers, this will help with closing the sling shot switches. You will most likely end up having to clean all the switched in you game. It will help immensely!

Also note that all 3 balls must be in the trough for F2K to go into attract mode. Attract mode is when the insert lamps light in a specific sequence to attract potential players looking at the game. Also when in attract mode, the score display will change from current score to the highest score to date, repeating approx. every 5 seconds. If any balls are trapped in the ball walker maze, F2K will automatically eject those balls and let them drain into the ball trough. When all 3 balls are in the trough, it should start attract mode. If it doesn't, then you need to inspect the trip wires in the trough area where the balls line up under the apron. There are 2 trip wires there that will close the micro switches under the pf, telling the MPU that all 3 balls are ready and accounted for. These trip wires are small and flimsy and can easily be thrown out of adjustment. There are 2 different versions of the F2K ball trough because of issues from the earlier version. Please post a pic or 2 of your trough area and eject mechanism. I'm curious to see which one your game has. Hopefully it's the later improved version.

Do you know that there is a volume adjustment knob by the speaker in the cabinet? Try turning it a few times and see if your sound starts to work.

Flickering score displays can be fixed by re-flowing the solder on the header pins. Look for and pins that look like the solder make be loose around the pins. Turn display upside down, heat the solder just enough to melt it and quickly release the heat. this will help the solder re-bond to the pins.

Good luck bro!

#138 5 months ago

Sorry for the typos in that last paragraph. Should say "Look and any pins that look like the solder may be loose around the pins"

#139 5 months ago

Ok. Quick post. I swapped over the displays.. to the ones flickering.. same issue in displays

On the kicker ball.. i straighten up the shaft...for some reason was off.. and lubed up the coil shaft with lithium grease and bingo.. kicks the ball out now..

But some times kicks out two balls...??

I fixed and checked the ribbon cables as two weren't working..but still no sound..

#140 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Ok. Quick post. U swapped over the displays.. to the ones flickering.. same issue in displays
On the kicker ball.. i straighten up the shaft...for some reason was off.. and lubed up the coil shaft with lithium grease and bingo.. kicks the ball out now..
But some times kicks out two balls...??
I fixed and checked the ribbon cables as two went working..but still no sound..

What you call coil shaft is a plunger. The coil sleeve the plunger slides in is self-lubricating. You should not be using lubricants under your play field.

Check the plunger and make sure it has not mushroomed on the tip.

Mushroomed plungers should be replaced but you can file it down a little if you must for a short term fix.

Also use some 220 grit sandpaper on the plunger to make it nice and smooth.

#141 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What you call coil shaft is a plunger. The coil sleeve the plunger slides in is self-lubricating. You should not be using lubricants under your play field.
Check the plunger and make sure it has not mushroomed on the tip.
Mushroomed plungers should be replaced but you can file it down a little if you must for a short term fix.
Also use some 220 grit sandpaper on the plunger to make it nice and smooth.

Agreed, no lubricants should be used on any mechanisms under the PF. Except for the ball walker as I suggested previously.

#142 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Ok. Quick post. U swapped over the displays.. to the ones flickering.. same issue in displays
On the kicker ball.. i straighten up the shaft...for some reason was off.. and lubed up the coil shaft with lithium grease and bingo.. kicks the ball out now..
But some times kicks out two balls...??
I fixed and checked the ribbon cables as two went working..but still no sound..

When I said flip over display, I meant to turn it over to see if there are any cold solder joints on the main header pins. This is usually why the displays will flicker. Using a magnifying glass, closely look at the solder points around the pins. You will probably see that the solder looks like it pulled away from the pin. it could just be only 1 pin or more. If you find any that look suspicious, heat the solder up just enough to liquify the solder so it grabs the pin. Add a dab of solder while doing this won't hurt either. While you're at it, just reheat all the pins on the display to make it reliable.

Sound: Is there any static or noise at all coming from the speaker? Is the connector in the cabinet to the volume adjuster connected? Finally, inspect the ribbon cables by looking closely where the ends of the ribbon connect to the plastic housing. I had one on my first game that only 1 of the wire in the ribbon broke away from the connector housing. It was hard to notice until I looked for it. The ribbon cables are the weakest point of the sound in these games. The connectors are different from the rest of the game. They are IDC connectors which stands for "insulation displacement connector". The ribbons are pressed into the housing by force and the connector housing as tiny pinch points that make the connection. At this age, they are very easily broken away. One verified that the cables are good, check the test point voltages on the SB-300 per pinwiki. The lower connector at the bottom of the sound board could also be weak.

When you say ball kicker, are you referring to the outhole kicker that ejects the ball to the shooter lane? If it's ejecting 2 balls there, then the switches are not adjusted properly. CAn you post a pic of the trough area, I'd like to know if you have the early or later version. Also by pulling the apon off, you can observe the action of the balls while playing a game and look for odd behavior.

#143 5 months ago

Cheers dudes.

Cleaned up the plunger coil. And its back to normal

Cleaned up the play field and added some wax to the play field.

I put the back glass and play field glass on today.. and kids had a blast today too.

I swapped out the displays and the ones that didnt work.. when switched.. had the same issue.. so yup..ill re solder thous..

The ribbons on the sound board i checked..two were broken..did a multi meter check and placed it back in F2k

But boot sometimes..and then doesn't boot other times... also.. the sound it garbled...faint sounds.. when the games boots... you can hear a sound..but indistinct.... the volume knob works too..under the playfield...

The speech hasn't made a sound at all.....

Cheers dudes..sorry if i repeated anything..
Been diggin out a new drive... loads of earth to remove. ..and now am drinking the the back pain away...lol
Pic 1 plunger mech
Pic 2 plunger coil cleaned

20190505_161604 (resized).jpg20190505_165220 (resized).jpg
#144 5 months ago

Oh**
Am.ive ordered some new rubbers
The old ones are shot

#145 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Cheers dudes.
Cleaned up the plunger coil. And its back to normal
Cleaned up the play field and added some wax to the play field.
I put the back glass and play field glass on today.. and kids had a blast today too.
I swapped out the displays and the ones that didnt work.. when switched.. had the same issue.. so yup..ill re solder thous..
The ribbons on the sound board i checked..two were broken..did a multi meter check and placed it back in F2k
But boot sometimes..and then doesn't boot other times... also.. the sound it garbled...faint sounds.. when the games boots... you can hear a sound..but indistinct.... the volume knob works too..under the playfield...
The speech hasn't made a sound at all.....
Cheers dudes..sorry if i repeated anything..
Been diggin out a new drive... loads of earth to remove. ..and now am drinking the the back pain away...lol
Pic 1 plunger mech
Pic 2 plunger coil cleaned[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't envy you as far as having to dig a new drive lol. That has be difficult!.

If any of the ribbon cables are broke, then I figure you won't get any sounds. The SB-300 could also have a bad amplifier transistor as well. Cheap and easy to replace. Also new ribbon cables are available and so is the SB-300.

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

It looks like you have the earlier trough set up. I haven't seen one in person so I can't help you much for that. My best advice is to remove the apron and observe the balls as you play a game or 2. Make sure the switches close when the balls rest in the trough to ensure that is doesn't eject 2 balls.

As far as inconsistent booting, it could be the ribbon cables but could also be more involved with voltage issues. You need constant 12 and 5 volts to the MPU. Does the game ever reboot (reset) during a game?

My daugter posted this vid when she was 11 years old.

#146 5 months ago

Defo! That drive.. lots to remove... 3 or4 tons..by hand..

In the uk for a (skip) removal truck cost hundreds..even for a small skip..
My road it a single narrow road.. over 130 years..back in the days of horse and cart.. so...
I can't order and removal truck for the soil...hence...

By hand...
But am.selling top soil 50p a bag...
Saves a fortune but very hard work

My games doesn't reset at all during a game...

Am going to order a sound sb 300 kit...

Am not sure how to approach the speech board .

Also.. what settings do you have your f2k too in terms.of credits..balls..score.etc

Cheers

20190505_133142 (resized).jpgIMG-20190428-WA0006 (resized).jpeg
#147 5 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Defo! That drive.. lots to remove... 3 or4 tons..by hand..
In the uk for a (skip) removal truck cost hundreds..even for a small skip..
My road it a single narrow road.. over 130 years..back in the days of horse and cart.. so...
I can't order and removal truck for the soil...hence...
By hand...
But am.selling top soil 50p a bag...
Saves a fortune but very hard work
My games doesn't reset at all during a game...
Am going to order a sound sb 300 kit...
Am not sure how to approach the speech board .
Also.. what settings do you have your f2k too in terms.of credits..balls..score.etc
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image]

Man that's a ton of work, kudos to you for taking it on.

The speech board may be good. You will know once the SB-300 is 100%. Have you tried to run the self test feature? It's one of the white buttons in the coin door. I can't remember which though, one is for memory clear and the other is self test. Usually the sticker for those buttons has been lost. Press once and the game will cycle though lamps, coils, displays and sound/speech.

You can set the game any way you want for credits and free games etc. I keep mine set to award extra balls instead of free games. Everybody has different preferences for that. The game will hold a max of 40 credits at a time. You can also change from a 3 ball game to 5 balls via the dip switches on the MPU. Do you have a manual?

#148 5 months ago

The speech board part number is VSU-100. It uses a chip that may have gone bad. The chip is obsolete. I bought one as a spare from a reseller for my Catacomb.

He had 14 is so in stock before we started buying him out. I don’t know if he has any left or not.

I’ll check my records for info when I get home.

#149 5 months ago

Nice one guys!

On the coin door ive two buttons, clear memory
And test.

I guess clear memory.. well..clears memory?(haven't pressed this)

Ive pressed the test button and all displayed showned
111111111 but then its crashes F2k

Tried is again.. and then same..crashes after it displays 111111111

On the displays.. ... i tested the points ie.. 3000 points..(see pic)

But on pressed on the playfield it doesn't register 3000 points..just in the hundreds...is that normal.. or is it when it on multiplier?

I've now downloaded and printed a manual . Will read though this.

Am sure my mpu is set to the setting inside the the back box..(has a default screen inside)

What level should f2k be in terms of pitch and legs?
I thinks mines abit flat... ive seen a few videos and i looks to play faster..(am sure the dead rubbers aren't helping either)

Been looking on online for leds...what bulbs does f2k take? Stock and led?need to reduce the heat

The leds need a resistors ive been told..the would take ages to solder on each light bulb? Any quicker..easier methods?

Want to reduce the heat too. The back glass has seen better days..but ill leave it original. What's the best way to maintain what i have on the back glass as its flaky? Some sort a clear sealer?

Thank you guys... your all legends!

Screenshot_20190506-052212_Video Player (resized).jpg
#150 5 months ago

Ill check the display for cracked solder points to when i get a chance too

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