(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!


By Supersunny76

7 months ago



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  • 237 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 days ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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There are 237 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 5.
#51 7 months ago

Sounds like U8 chip and socket (blue arrow in pic above) will need to be replaced, as i believe the lack of a 3rd flash is indicating a RAM problem. Very common as it's right in the corrosion area.

#52 7 months ago

Cheers dude, shall i try to re-seat it or buy another.. any ideas where i can purchase one..?

Thanks

#53 7 months ago

As Quench said you got some work ahead of you. Especially now you know the MPU won’t boot up. First thing is to remove ALL the corrosion – both sides. Any corrosion left behind will continue to grow. There’s several methods for removing it from baking soda to toilet cleaner. Remove the IC’s and give it a good cleaning. Look under the green solder mask. Scrape or sand away any loose solder mask and inspect the traces for any corrosion. The back side looks like it may have been affected too. You may have to do some trace repair. Corrosion can grow under the traces where you can’t see it. Also closely inspect any components. Replace any that look suspect. (They’re cheap and easy to replace at this point). While the IC’s are out, look closely at the sockets. Most likely the U8 socket is bad.

U8 and U13 are 5101 RAM chips. And they should be replaced in pairs. I’ve been having problems finding new 5101’s. If it were me, I’d replace them with NVRAM’s. This will also eliminate the need for a battery.

Quench also noticed the corrosion on the headers. To me, that’s the number one cause of failure. As standard procedure I always replace all the headers and crimp connectors on all the boards. Eliminating the corrosion, new headers and connectors and you’re on the way to a game that will last another 30 years.

Be careful and take your time removing components – especially IC sockets and headers. It’s very easy to remove the solder pad. Then you’ll have more work repairing your repair work.

Robotworkshop suggested you put covers on the EPROM chips. That’s a good suggestion. Ultraviolet light can erase the data on the chips. I usually put labels on all the chips so I remember where they go.

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#54 7 months ago

afternoon guys , thanks for the above...

about replacing with the nvrams , would i need 2 x nvrams for U8 and U13?.as its best too replace both?..

thanks

#55 7 months ago

You're getting good advice from others here. Restoring corroded boards back to good health is time consuming but if you do it properly they're good to go. It'll require patience, parts, skill and the right tools.

Pinsider @barakandl sells a single NVRAM module that plugs into both U8 and U13 sockets. See the bottom of his web page for the MPU-200 NVRAM - however he's out of stock at the minute.
https://nvram.weebly.com/

Note, he also sells new replacement MPU boards if you're daunted at repairing your MPU board.

#56 7 months ago

I can recommend that dual NVRAM board. Installed one in my Flight 2000 and it works great!

#57 7 months ago

FWIW I've got the "original" MPU-200 NVRAM in-stock & ready-to-ship here:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/stern_mpu200_nvram.php

Also have some diagnostic tools that might help you out if you're doing a lot of board repairs on early Bally/Stern machines. Availability has been spotty on the tools, but I'm working to get some of them back in-stock this year. If you're interested in anything currently unavailable, get signed up on the waitlist(s).

---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

#58 7 months ago
Quoted from acebathound:

FWIW I've got the "original" MPU-200 NVRAM in-stock & ready-to-ship here:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/stern_mpu200_nvram.php

He is in the UK, your web page says ....?

SHIPPING AVAILABILITY
This item ships only to United States, Canada & Australia

#59 7 months ago
Quoted from Mageek:

He is in the UK, your web page says ....?
SHIPPING AVAILABILITY
This item ships only to United States, Canada & Australia

Oops, you're right.. hadn't noticed he was in the UK.

Looks like he'll have to wait on nvram.weebly to get stock (I see there's no longer shipping restrictions posted on the website).

#60 7 months ago

Hey guys,yeah...in uk... and soon to leave Europe. Lol

Hopefully he'll have stock soon

#61 7 months ago

I ship to the UK but the MPU200 modules are out of stock right now. Been waiting forty five days now for a huge order of the round pin socket mating headers to build more nvram modules. Should have tried a different or multiple vendors and faster ship method. hopefully back in stock soon but I really don't know when they will arrive.

#62 7 months ago

Thanks dude. Hit me up when they do. 100 interested dude

Many thanks

#63 7 months ago

I've never heard of the place myself, but it looks like there's a place relatively close to you that sells pinball parts and does repairs etc. You may want to see if this is something they might be able to help you out with...

http://www.pinballmachines.co.uk

#64 7 months ago

Thanks guys.. well its the weekend here in the UK..
Working a 9 to 5 in IT.. have to say i love my job... had the whole saturday to myself.. kids away..and missus at work till 7pm..did abit of work on the beetle.. dry sanding prep work..then maybe with abit of luck get the primer on the chassis for next week...(plan to paint in afew weeks gt3 rs grey)

Quick question... i dream of pinballs machines.. well..to speak of it..arcade machines too....the feeling of walking in an arcade when i was a kid ...must have been stuck with me and never left me... happy days man.. anyone else feel like that... ?

My buddy of mine...love games...but never have the time due to work ..family etc
.were always watching old 80s movies....goonies..lost boys..etc.. (love stranger things btw) and you always see arcades..kids will never know the adrenaline of walking into an arcade.... rant over

#65 7 months ago
Quoted from acebathound:

FWIW I've got the "original" MPU-200 NVRAM in-stock & ready-to-ship here:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/stern_mpu200_nvram.php
Also have some diagnostic tools that might help you out if you're doing a lot of board repairs on early Bally/Stern machines. Availability has been spotty on the tools, but I'm working to get some of them back in-stock this year. If you're interested in anything currently unavailable, get signed up on the waitlist(s).
---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

Thanks for the reminder on the tools. I had looked at them before and want to order some to aid in bench testing. They look like they will save a lot of time.

1 week later
#66 6 months ago

Hi guys. I have baking soda 99.9 alcohol de ion water. White vinegar but what I don't have is US products like the Works toilet bowl cleaner only UK products...

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#67 6 months ago

Still waiting for my ram 5010 chips and the corrosion kit to arrive from the usa from big daddy ent. Can't wait to get started .oh and the power board too.

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#68 6 months ago

Good news guys!
Big daddys power boards arrived!

Ill be ok to get the power board soldered up.

But the mpu repair kit had no instructions.

Anyone have a list part for each resistor to go?

Thanks

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#69 6 months ago

This kit is for Bally & Stern MPU boards including Bally -17, Bally -35, Bally -133 (see note below), Stern MPU-100 and Stern MPU-200 boards.
Contains the following parts that are most frequently damaged by battery corrosion.
The value in this kit isn't just the parts, it's being able to get them all at once from one source.

C1,C2 - Capacitor 820pF, axial or radial ceramic (small yellow bulb, #6 & #7 down in picture above)
C5 - Capacitor 47uF, radial tantalum (small yellow barrel, top of picture above)
C3,C13,C80 - Capacitor 0.1uF, axial ceramic (square brown, upper right picture above)
CR5,CR7,CR52 - Diode 1N4148 (CR52 optional, see note below. Smaller zener #3 - #5 above))
CR8 - LED Green
CR44 - Diode 1N4007
R1,R3,R24,R28 - Resistor 8.2K ohm, 1/4W
R2 - Resistor, 120K ohm, 1/4W
R11 - Resistor, 82 ohm, 2W
R12 - Resistor 270 ohm, 1/4W
R16, R113 - Resistor 2K ohm, 1/4W (See Note)
R17 - Resistor 150K ohm, 1/4W
R29 - Resistor 470 ohm, 1/2W
R107 - Resistor 3.3K ohm, 1/4W
R112 - Resistor 1K ohm, 1/4W
R134 - Resistor 4.7K ohm, 1/4W
R140 - Resistor 20K ohm, 1/4W
Q1,Q2 - Transistor 2N3904 or 2N4401 or equivalent
Q5 - Transistor 2N4403, 2N3906, MPS-A92 or equivalent
VR1 - Diode 1N4738A, zener, 8.2V (alternate for 1N9598)
22 Pin machine socket (optional)
U8 - 5101 Static RAM (optional, various makers) Please note Stern MPU-200s require two 5101s

#70 6 months ago

Cheers buddy!!

#71 6 months ago

Hi guys.

Does any one have a map on where all these go.. i got the list(thankyou) but am a novice when it comes to resistors . I know some kits come with one... of what goes where and circled numbers parts .. the ebay listing on big daddy is...well its a bit vague??

#73 6 months ago

Gotta love that 'My little Pony' toothbrush!

#74 6 months ago

Hahaha cheers. My little one jumped to the chance to help me.lol

Great. Just looking at the schematic...my board layout is slightly different.. am i guessing that doesn't matter ?
Cheers guys

#75 6 months ago

Hooray!!
Six flashes dudes! Corrosion kit did the job!.
Ill move onto soldering the power board now...

#76 6 months ago

following this excellent thread.

#77 6 months ago

Right.. being chuffed i fixed the board..(very happy indeed!) I was on a roll...so.. instead of ending the afternoon and trucked on and wired the back of the rectifier board.

Ill have to repin the connectors....no wait.. they had no connectors.. they were soldered on..lol..

No really going to enjoy that...and on the transformer i relocated the uk spec . Yellow jumper from 12 to 7. Cheers guys... ill keep you updated...

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#78 6 months ago

Like to shake the mans hand who did this lol....

(Deep breath) one pin at a time....

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#79 6 months ago

Hi guys.

Ok went to bed and got up early and started to sort the J1 J2 and J3 connectors.

J2 Was straight forward as it wasn't tampered with.

J3 - I've managed to label all the wires except 2.

J3-19 red/yellow - ( i thought i had a red and orange..but now looking at it outside from the cellar ..would it be red/yellow(pic3).?

J3-13 white /yellow. I don't have this wire showing in my harness(any ideas??) Pic 2

J1
Abit lost on this connector..

All i can see is a white /2 x blues /red /and looks like a blue and white

Pic 4 - J1 pin 3 says spare.. but on the old rectifier board theres one of the Blue wires connected. Also on Pic 5 theres a brown wire jumper from J1 to J3.

As always ..any input i would be very grateful dudes.

P.s can't wait to fire this up

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#80 6 months ago

My F2K is in storage right now but I think I have some pics of the J3 connector on an SD card that I have to look through. I saw earlier in this thread that there were 2 transformers installed. This usually happens when one of the windings (outputs) has shorted or gone bad. Firstly you need to verify that the original transformer is good. If you already stated that, my apologies for not reading the entire thread. Do you remember how the 2nd transformer was wire in? This should tell what they were trying to power up. I would think the GI lamps.

I will search for those pics for you...

#81 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

J3-19 red/yellow - ( i thought i had a red and orange..but now looking at it outside from the cellar ..would it be red/yellow(pic3).?

That red wire appears to have faint yellow blocks on it. If there's no other obvious red-yellow wires that's probably it.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

J3-13 white /yellow. I don't have this wire showing in my harness(any ideas??) Pic 2

The Flight 2000 rectifier board schematic (oldschoolbob attached it in post #12 ) shows no wire at J3-13. It was originally used by older Sterns that had the knocker coil in the back box but your vintage game has the knocker in the cabinet (looks like its missing from your game though).

Quoted from Supersunny76:

J1
Abit lost on this connector..

All i can see is a white /2 x blues /red /and looks like a blue and white

Pic 4 - J1 pin 3 says spare.. but on the old rectifier board theres one of the Blue wires connected. Also on Pic 5 theres a brown wire jumper from J1 to J3.

The reference picture of J1 you have is from Bally and their wire color locations were a little different to Stern. Look at the rectifier board schematic in post #12 which shows the wire colors for J1.

#82 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

That red wire appears to have faint yellow blocks on it. If there's no other obvious red-yellow wires that's probably it.

The Flight 2000 rectifier board schematic (oldschoolbob attached it in post #13 ) shows no wire at J3-13. It was originally used by older Sterns that had the knocker coil in the back box but your vintage game has the knocker in the cabinet (looks like its missing from your game though).

The reference picture of J1 you have is from Bally and their wire color locations were a little different to Stern. Look at the rectifier board schematic in post #13 which shows the wire colors for J1.

F2K doesn't have a knocker. When winning a free credit by match, you get an electronic sound.

#83 6 months ago

Hi love F2k

Cheers dude! Very much appreciate friend!

The main transformers ok(i think..i say this because when i had the machine..when turned on.. only the GI lights and playfield lights would turn on.(see pic 1) and the mpu light would stay on..or flash twice ..then no flashes at all...)so am guessing the main trans is ok

The second transformer block and tracing back the wires... red wire splices into a white wire. And the brown spices into a yellow wire.

Heres a vid of the second transformer dude

Cheers dude!

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#84 6 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

F2K doesn't have a knocker. When winning a free credit by match, you get an electronic sound.

Cheers, thanks for the clarification - looks like they ran out of driver transistors on the SDB for a knocker.

#85 6 months ago

Forgot to mention ....

The second transformer brown wire(ground i think) is connected to a fuse fixed to the wood work for the rectifier board. The fuse is blown and clearly not connected/working so I'm guessing transformer 2 did nothing at all.

#86 6 months ago

This pic straight from F2K. Please note that the J1 connector housing has 8 positions. The newer reproduction rec boards have 9 pins at J1. For F2K, the far right pin is not used. The key plug in the housing should prevent you from installing the connector to the wrong pins. Go to piniwiki.com Bally/Stern section to reference the back side of the rec board solder points and color codes. Sorry I don't have a clear pic of J3, but somebody on this group must. Also get the F2K manual if you don't have it. I have a suspicion that this game will have more issues once she does fire up, so you will need it. Good luck!

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#87 6 months ago

Sorry.. forgive me..

Still trying to get used to pinball terminology can you confirm what a knocker is. Thanks guys...

Sdb is solenoid driver board?

So really.. once thous are re pinned... am pretty much good to fire it up..!

#88 6 months ago

LOL the booze on top. Don't drink too much, we don't want you to electricute yourself! Just watch your vid. Without my game year and failing memory, I cannot confirm what these wire colors are for. At least the knucklehead fused the secondary transformer.

#89 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Sorry.. forgive me..
Still trying to get used to pinball terminology can you confirm what a knocker is. Thanks guys...
Sdb is solenoid driver board?
So really.. once thous are re pinned... am pretty much good to fire it up..!

The knocker is a coil with a plunger that makes a pop sound against the inside of the cabinet when you win free credits, hence the term "popping a free game".

SDB is solenoid driver. When you are confident that you nailed down the wiring, don't start the game full blast. Disconnect J1, which goes to the playfield. Take a measurement of the test points and note results. See pinwiki for specs. Also be aware that the score displays get a minimum of 180 volts so be careful where to put your fingers. When the mpu gets 43 volts from the power supply, you should finally get the 7th flash. When testing voltage point, place black lead on any part of the cab ground braid and the red to the test point on the rec board that you want to measure. Don't forget that the GI circuit is AC, so you may need to set the meter for that, all others are DC.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Rectifier_Board_Test_Point_Values

#90 6 months ago

Make sure you disconnect J3 from the rectifier board aswell!
Only J2 should be connected on first powerup which ensures no circuit boards in the backbox are at the risk of getting powered with wrong voltages.

Measure the voltages at the test points on the rectifier board. If all within spec then you can plug in J3 which hooks up power to the circuit boards in the backbox.

#91 6 months ago

Thanks guys! Right J2 only . Got it..and multi meter checks.. kool.

That the money shot right there! J1

I can label all my wires now but ive two blues.. on the photo. My old wires are soldered together..see photo

Is it just a case of tracing these back up the loom to see which ones which?

Your both legends i tell you legends!!

Hahahh yeah i didnt have a drinks cabinet at the time lol

Yeah. Am guessing theres more work to be done.. just hope its not loads more lol

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#92 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

That the money shot right there! J1

I can label all my wires now but ive two blues.. on the photo. My old wires are soldered together..see photo

Those particular two blue wires are both power for the feature lamps on the playfield. One blue wire will supply some lamps, the other blue wire will supply other lamps. As long as they're in pins 3 and 7 of J1 that's all that's important.

On the rectifier board, both pins 3 and 7 are connected together and supply 5.4 volts to the feature lamps.
The reason for running two wires is the lamps draw a lot of current so they spread the load on two connector pins/wires.
.
F2K_RectifierBoard_J1.jpg

#93 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Cheers, thanks for the clarification - looks like they ran out of driver transistors on the SDB for a knocker.

No wonder with 5 memory coils and 4 sling shots.

#94 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

The reason for running two wires is the lamps draw a lot of current so they spread the load on two connector pins/wires.

I understand this right up to the point where J3-6 and J1-3 both splice into J1-7 somewhere on the board where all of the load is concentrated. Seems to me that everything feeds off of J1-7 which will be taking all of the load no matter how the wiring is split up.

I also fail to understand why two blue wires are needed on the play field, other than to prevent the crossover of a bare GI power wire string and a bare feature wire string where some feature lights are surrounded by a cluster of GI lights.

I am still learning this stuff. Anything to help my understanding is always welcome.

#95 6 months ago

Ok guys... i couldn't message on the board ..it said the topics on fire and i couldn't post a message?

Right..i double checked the connectors and only plugged in J2

The reads are as follows..

Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156 (is this low due to nothing being connect to draw power?)
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground

I plugged in J1 and J3... anddddd.........

Just lights are before... Playfield and back box...

So i checked for lights on the mpu but nothing...but no blown fuses now either....

So i looked at the connectors. ..as the mpu sits inside the backbox... the top right connectors weren't tight fit.. nor were the connectors botton left.. on closer inspection... i pulled a pin out to check.. and it crumbled in my hand...

So i shud have done this already but wanted to see if it fired up.. will be re pinning the mpu connectors..

But i dont know the name or spec of the chrimps for the mpu..any ideas? Thanks guys

#96 6 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Ok guys... i couldn't message on the board ..it said the topics on fire and i couldn't post a message?
Right..i double checked the connectors and only plugged in J2
The reads are as follows..
Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156 (is this low due to nothing being connect to draw power?)
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground
I plugged in J1 and J3... anddddd.........
Just lights are before... Playfield and back box...
So i checked for lights on the mpu but nothing...but no blown fuses now either....
So i looked at the connectors. ..as the mpu sits inside the backbox... the top right connectors weren't tight fit.. nor were the connectors botton left.. on closer inspection... i pulled a pin out to check.. and it crumbled in my hand...
So i shud have done this already but wanted to see if it fired up.. will be re pinning the mpu connectors..
But i dont know the name or spec of the chrimps for the mpu..any ideas? Thanks guys

The mpu connectors and pins are Molex type. Spacing is .100 inch. The connector house is known as a KK style. Usually you can reuse the housings by sliding out old connectors.

Be gentle when replacing the header pins. The solder pads on the board are delicate and even more so after corrosion has set it.

Your rec board voltages seem low. The high volt for score displays should be over 200. Check pinwiki for the nornal no load readings. Tp 5 and 6 look acceptable. Tp 1 should be more than 6 more like 7.3 is normal I think.

What is the normal wall socket voltage for the UK? Are you sure the transformer is jumpered correctly?

#97 6 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The high volt for score displays should be over 200.

It's common for some digital multi-meters to give a reading of about 150 volts when there's no load. There's a number of people posting such a reading here. If you want the true reading you have to measure the other side of the 100k ohm R3 resistor on the rectifier board. Alternatively after you plug in the solenoid driver board (SDB), if you measure around 230-240 volts at test point TP4 on the SDB then you know the high voltage from the transformer is ok.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I understand this right up to the point where J3-6 and J1-3 both splice into J1-7 somewhere on the board where all of the load is concentrated. Seems to me that everything feeds off of J1-7 which will be taking all of the load no matter how the wiring is split up.

I was referring to spreading the load across two connector crimp terminal/pins, not how the traces are run on the board.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I also fail to understand why two blue wires are needed on the play field, other than to prevent the crossover of a bare GI power wire string and a bare feature wire string where some feature lights are surrounded by a cluster of GI lights.

Below is a chart from Molex indicating the current capacity of their 0.156" (3.96mm) crimp terminals. Maximum for brass is 5 amps and maximum for phopsphor bronze is 7.0 amps. Back in the day Stern likely would have used brass terminals to save cost. With each #44 lamp drawing approx 0.25 - 0.3 amps, if lots/all feature lamps are on, it exceeds current capacity on a single wire terminal connection. So they doubled up.
Having said this it begs the question why Stern didn't double up on the GI lighting at connector J1 like Bally did. I can't answer that.
Personally I would be splicing the GI wires into two and double crimp terminal them in J1 so that that you crimp wire pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 8 to pin 5. Of course these should be trifurcon phosphor bronze crimp terminals for maximum mating contact surface and current carrying capacity.

Molex_0156_Terminal_Current_rating.jpg

#98 6 months ago

Its 230 -240 at the wall.
Quench gave me the low down earlier in the thread #10 as this Is all new to me.

On the transformer i jumped 12 yellow wire on to 7

Also i only checked the volts when J2 plugged in only... but i guess that doesn't matter.

Maybe that's why the additional transformer was used..??

Ill check my main transformer wiring again to be sure..cheers dudes

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#99 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

I was referring to spreading the load across two connector crimp terminal/pins, not how the traces are run on the board.

I understand what you were saying. I am just having trouble wrapping my head around the fact that all of the feature light wiring from the back box J3-6 and J1-3 all converge on J1-7 which takes all of the load. That is not an entirely correct statement, because according to the diagram
J3-6 and J1-3 come in behind J1-7, so J1-7 pin does not take any extra load, but what ever is on the rectifier board sure takes a hit.

( I hope the OP does not think I hijacked his thread because you sure turned on a light---no pun intended).

Quoted from Quench:

Below is a chart from Molex indicating the current capacity of their 0.156" (3.96mm) crimp terminals. Maximum for brass is 5 amps and maximum for phopsphor bronze is 7.0 amps. Back in the day Stern likely would have used brass terminals to save cost. With each #44 lamp drawing approx 0.25 - 0.3 amps, if lots/all feature lamps are on, it exceeds current capacity on a single wire terminal connection. So they doubled up.
Having said this it begs the question why Stern didn't double up on the GI lighting at connector J1 like Bally did. I can't answer that.
Personally I would be splicing the GI wires into two and double crimp terminal them in J1 so that that you crimp wire pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 8 to pin 5. Of course these should be trifurcon phosphor bronze crimp terminals for maximum mating contact surface and current carrying capacity.
[quoted image]

OK. When I restored and reran the wiring on my Big Game I elected to use copper foil tape for all of the feature lights. In my ignorance, I ran all feature lights from one copper foil "circuit". That was a mistake. There almost 50 feature lights and they get a little dim when all are lit up. So, I need to breakdown all my wiring and re-do the copper foil into two "circuits" that feed both J1-3 pin and J1-7 pin.

While I am doing this, should I split up my GI wiring and run half of the GI on Pin 1-Red and Pin 5-White and the other half to Pin 2-Red and Pin 8-White? Would doing this allow, or cause, the GI bulbs to burn brighter? It sure would be an easy project to set up.

Thanks

#100 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Alternatively after you plug in the solenoid driver board (SDB), if you measure around 230-240 volts at test point TP4 on the SDB then you know the high voltage from the transformer is ok.

How do I try this i.e. where do I put my multimeter on what settings DC? Then i can rule out the transformer. can try this while I order some chrimps. In uk they have the metric system. Would i be safe to say there 2.54mm?

Quoted from Lovef2k:

The mpu connectors and pins are Molex type. Spacing is .100 inch. The connector house is known as a KK style.

So ill re pin the mpu. And any other board looking suspect.

We mentioned TP4 and how to check..is TP1 low too?
Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground

I know the rectifer board has lager chrimps.. i get my bits from RS components.

https://uk.rs-online.com.
But want to make sure there the rights ones. Any ideas on the site?(ordered the wrong size once to many times lol

Thanks

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