Flight 2000 help!

(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!

By Supersunny76

5 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders


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#1 5 days ago

Hi. Have a flight 2000. Had it for 6months or so..not working and started to look under the playfield. When turned the GU lights work and a buzz from.the speaker.The rectifier looks like a hack job. When i did turn it on.. it blows F4 7amp slo blow 43vdc. So i unplugged everything from the back box (solenoid ,light board and mpu board. Ive looked again online manual and looks like the header pins are not in..lower middle and left of the power broad. And wire has been soldered on to...well.. a big heat sink of sorts,below that is the speaker off centred..also looks like the wires have been cut and plugged in the bottom...and has two transformers .this is my first pinball... and tbh..am keeping it forever ... need help guys

Here's a video

#2 5 days ago

Man that’s a hack job.

#3 5 days ago

If that game's a keeper, I'd remove everything including the extra transformer, and rectifier board. Install a new rectifier board and re-wire it with new connectors. With that mess you'll forever have problems.

I'm surprised you only have one fuse that blows when you turn it on.

#4 5 days ago

I would suspect that was done before new rectifier boards were easier to find ...


Connector kit: ebay.com link » As 2518 18 Power Supply Connector Kit W Headers Bally Stern Pinball Machines

Ratchet crimper: amazon.com link »

probably a burnt coil , you can check resistance across each one of them to find the short

#5 5 days ago

Thanks for the quick reply guys,

Thats the way to go, I have to be honest, am a novice on these as this is my first pinball, so if i ask dumb questions forgive me

Yep..thats the way I want to go , to bring the wiring back to its original state.(need help with this guys)

ive order the crimping tool , should be arriving Saturday, and ordering a new power board too.(MAY TAKE 2 WEEKS FROM USA, AM BASED IN LONDON UK)Rotten Dog, and some other bits and pieces. I think your right Chas10e that it was repaired before they were available

Ok, am planning to plug in a new rectifier board but my old one only has one molex plug(right bottom), plugged in...the middle and left molex are a bunch of wires on the ground.

Does anyone have pictures of the molex plugs and there colours on the rectifier board, or the harness colours leading up to he transformer and power board.

Ive another question..looks like both transformers are connected...I live in the UK,...so would there be an extra transformer for a uk standard plug?.

Change of topic just finished two mame machines , i had the cabs(gutted from previous owners for parts) i found online years ago..and were sitting around, so i made a Street fighter 2 cab and Outrun turbo, kids love them.

also will be working on a Operation wolf , bits were imported from Italy , (just the marquee , coin door, Gun , base and metal top base with instructions.

PIN3 (resized).jpg
#7 5 days ago

thanks CanadianPinpall but 90 % percent of the harness is great, I would think it would be over kill
to replace the whole harness, just want to repin the power lines to the power board and get the right molex connectors,

Would you have the colours for the power rectifier board?.or info on two transformers on a uk model?...

thanks in advance guys!

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#8 5 days ago

That second transformer on the left shouldn't be there - you'll have to find out why it's been retrofitted. Maybe post some pictures of where its wired from and to so we can see why it's there.

The picture gallery in the Flight 2000 club thread has photos showing the rectifier board connectors:
Club thread:

Club thread picture gallery:

#9 5 days ago

thanks Quench!

heres a photo of which i have on my phone.. i can check again tonight and get a better photo/video. looks like it wiring to the harness with black tape near the
coin mech?....

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#10 5 days ago

Looks like there's only two wires on that extra transformer. Taking a guess, your main transformer might be wired for 110V AC, and someone added that extra transformer (probably also 110V AC) in series with the main transformer so you can run it on your countries mains wall power. Unless the main transformer is faulty, this secondary transformer is unnecessary as the original main transformer can be wired for 220V or 240V as per the sheet behind the transformer.

The voltage configuration lugs are on the back of the main transformer along its lower area. You'll probably need to unbolt the transformer to get to the voltage lugs.

You probably also noticed your rectifier (power) board assembly isn't mounted in the original location:

#11 4 days ago

Your the man Quench !

Just got home..heres a better video.

P.s am soo excited to be on the road to get this working

#12 4 days ago

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#13 4 days ago

Hmm, the extra transformer looks like it's running in parallel on the mains power wires. It also looks like it's come from an older electromechanical machine. However it seems to me there is no output of that transformer connected anywhere. Remove it and properly insulate the mains wires where it's been connected to.

With a bit of work you can restore the rectifier board connectors to factory so they look like the picture from oldschoolbob above. You need to cleanup the wiring mess where the wires have been soldered directly to the back of the rectifier board. Note, only the wires from the transformer solder directly to the back of that board. The remaining wires running to the backbox, playfield and cabinet connect via the front three connectors. The 8 pin connector goes to the playfield. The 10 pin connector which is still there is for the cabinet, and the 20 pin connector runs to the backbox.

#14 4 days ago

Thanks oldshoolbob and Quench!

I know this is going to sound dumb..just trying to get my head around it before the new board comes..

On the schematic above ..do the wire colours run in order..for j1 j2 j3..so they match each molex connector..? ie j2 pin 1 y/b - pin 2 G

Also J1 pin 3 say feature lamp bus.. is that missing a colour code?

Thanks dudes

#15 4 days ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

do the wire colours run in order..for j1 j2 j3..so they match each molex connector..?

The wire colors don't match on each connector. Also the schematic pin numbers don't run in order. Just follow the connector number (J1, J2, J3) and the pin numbers and the wire colors.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

Also J1 pin 3 say feature lamp bus.. is that missing a colour code?

I don't have the game here anymore but I think the J1 pin 3 is blue - the same as pin 7. Check your connector blocks and it looks like you have 2 blue wires connected to the same block. They should connect to pin 3 and pin 7. You can check continuity to the underside of the playfield to be sure.

Here's a photo of my F2K when I got it. And I thought it was a mess.

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#16 4 days ago

Thank you so much guys!
Your all legends ..legends I tell you! !

Ill be pulling out the board and transformers this weekend...that and trying to finish my vw 68 bug resto too...busy weekend guys.. ill keep you all updated.. hopefully this post help anyone in the future whos in the same boat

#17 4 days ago

I find it easier to remove the base panel with everything attached (Transformer, board, etc.) and work on it at the workbench.

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Good luck on the bug.

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#18 4 days ago

What a mess....

Ive labelled up the wires and ill double check with the schematic just in case they were wired up wrong by the previous owenr and await the new power board...why that other transformer was in there i don't know...

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#19 3 days ago

Check the main transformer to be sure it's jumpered for 220.

#20 3 days ago

Nice beetle bob! What year is it? 68 69?

Ill check on the transformer jumper?..but how do i check.. just look at the back of it..?

Past bits.. built my daily ride to work honda cg 125 café

The beetle has had
New brake lines
Master cylinder
Fuel line
Tail pipes
Torsion bar
Alll welding done sills channels etc
Erm..front axle
Used to work in the car trade so bits were mega cheap... and the car i picked up in 2003 and been stored for yrs..stop start project..but now it all done... just the paint left to do...will be in gt3 rs grey...like the wheel alloy colour ..cant wait

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#21 3 days ago

Bob.. is this the jumper..3 to 5?

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#22 2 days ago

According to the diagram, yes, lugs 3 & 5 are jumpered correctly. Red wire is connected to lug 1. The diagram says the yellow wire is connected to lug 12 BUT it's shown connected to lug 13. That's confusing.

I'm not that familiar with British mains. May be someone more knowledgeable - like Quench - can tell if it's correct.

#23 2 days ago

Pinball’s, VW’s, and motorcycles – Sounds like you’re my British cousin. Now that I think about it I did trace my ancestry back to Yorkshire, UK. to 1598.

The black bug is actually a ’73. But I hate the ’73 taillights and bumpers. I replaced the fenders, bumpers, and taillights for earlier parts. Some of the specs are - 1776 cc - mild cam - Weber Carburetor - Electronic ignition - Flow-thru oil system with external oil filter - S & S headers - Electric fuel pump. 800 watt stereo system with electronic crossover and 10 speakers.

I posted some photos and video a while back:


And I see you’re into motorcycles. I posted some photos of some of my bikes a while back too.


Good luck with your hobbies. I think you'll enjoy pinball's too.

#24 2 days ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Ill check on the transformer jumper?..but how do i check.. just look at the back of it..?

You currently have the transformer on 220VAC, but I would change it to 240VAC. I know there was a change in Europe to "230VAC" to standardise, but apparently it didn't really take effect - only the allowable tolerances were changed to create an overlay with 220VAC countries, so UK is still 240VAC:


Post a picture that clearly shows the back of the transformer and the lug numbers. As Bob noted, the paper voltage chart on your transformer board is incorrectly marked. It says the yellow wire should go to lug 12 for 220V operation, but then points it to lug 13...

#25 1 day ago

Evening guys..ok..here we go...

Has numbers marked as

Top 17,18,8,10,12,13

Bottom 1,3,5,7,9,11

Other side 14,15,16,2,6

On the instructions the it has two part numbers on the schematic ...or is it referring to the same part..i dont know...thanks in advance guys! You rock!

Pics below

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#26 1 day ago

According to the schematic, Lugs 13 and 14 are the taps for 7.8 VDC - so I don't think the mains would connect to lug 13.

Looking at the notes at the bottom left of the schematic (in post #12) - for 220 VAC - mains connect to 1 and 12. For 240 VAC - mains connect to 1 and 7.

The jumper at 3 to 5 are correct for both 220 and 240.

If you are on 240 volt mains you need to move the yellow wire from lug 12 to lug 7.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

On the instructions the it has two part numbers on the schematic ...or is it referring to the same part..i dont know.

I think you're referring to the Varistor in the back of the cabinet. I understand it's for voltage spikes. Quench would know the difference. My guess is 25A-18-1 is for 115 Volts and 25A-18-2 is for 220 Volts.

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#27 1 day ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

My guess is 25A-18-1 is for 115 Volts and 25A-18-2 is for 220 Volts.

Yes that's correct. 25A-18-2 is used in 220 volt and 240 volt environments. Since the game was wired for 220 volts you should have the right part.

Unsolder the yellow wire from lug 12 on the transformer and then solder it onto lug 7 (which is along the bottom) for 240 volts configuration.

#28 1 day ago

Thanks guys!

Am learning loads here lol,

ill sort that out when i get the power board

Dumb question, if its was on 220v prior as it was...and has been working since the 80s(and when i powered it on with GI lights were working...since then Uk volts have changed to 240v(just trying to get my head around it)

i did google Uk volts and found this on wiki.


Saying UK is 230V at 50hz

Silly question, but i no nothing of volts , 1a, 3a etc..220v and 240v or their values, are the numbers higher in terms of the higher numbers..?

What would happen if i left it at 220v.?....Would it still be ok?, would a void open and tear into the fabric of space?would i be sucked into another

Sorry...i.....i got carried away there for a sec....

Vodka and typing is a mad mix! , why do the Russians make it so pure!?..*Chic*

Your input is always greatly appreciated.

#29 1 day ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Dumb question, if its was on 220v prior as it was...and has been working since the 80s(and when i powered it on with GI lights were working...since then Uk volts have changed to 240v(just trying to get my head around it)

UK was always 240 volts as I understand. Your game might have come from mainland Europe at some point who are 220 volts.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

What would happen if i left it at 220v.?....Would it still be ok?

You can leave it on 220 volts - but the game will consume 10% more power which equates to extra heat and stresses.

If you're not familiar with voltage and current then I'd suggest you leave it as is for now. After you have more electrical experience with the machine from reinstating new connector on the cables that plug onto the rectifier board and then deal with the low voltage issues, you can consider visiting this at a later point.

Note, you have 10 other wires coming from the transformer that will need to be soldered onto your new rectifier board when you get it. The transformer is hard wired to that board, it's not attached via a connector.

#30 1 day ago

Thankyou buddy , and yes, ill switch to the 240v , who wants more heat eh?..lol

yup, ill solder the wires as you mentioned on as pictured below..i did label them..but counted 12?...instead of 10? is that right?..

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#32 20 hours ago

That's fantastic! !

This is the same feeling I had when i was 5 and saw He-man on tv for the first time! Lol

Thank you guys( salutes you all)

Of course ill keep you posted on my progress..

#33 14 hours ago

This is the back of my F2K board.

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#34 7 hours ago

cheers bob!

any and all photos are always great , you guys have given the the confidence to wire up the board and minimise the doubt it being
wired up wrong.

while am waiting for the board , i seen online how people can test the mpu broad for 6 or 7 flashes using a pc mains (and crocodile clips ) is
it worth me checking the mpu board or just wait till the power broad comes, the mpu has had the battery removed by the looks of it..

cheers dudes!

#35 5 hours ago

quick questions guys,

When i have the new board solder in , am i ok to test it by not connecting the J terminals plugs, just to check if any fuses blow..( the same i had originally F4 Coils fuses blowing ) and then plug in the J connectors on the power board and ...then plug in the connectors on the back box one by one to check if anything blows as i go?


#36 5 hours ago

You'll need to plug in connector J2 onto the rectifier board to power it up. J2 carries the wall mains power connections through to the transformer.

Check out the quick process on what connectors connect to what when you first power up the game and verify voltages:


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