Just bought one of these f2k units and its being shipped to me as I type. Looking forward to giving it a full repaint and rebuild possibly late this summer as i want to play it for a while first.
(Topic ID: 124724)
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Stern Electronics, 1980
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1 week later
Quoted from cottonm4:Sitting in the middle of the street. It looks like a movie set where a car is going to come rolling down the street and........
I just picture some pinball diehard just pushing it up the hill grunting away because it needs to fill a spot.
2 weeks later
Picked up mine on the weekend. Got it set up yesterday for a few games. Already replaced all the back box lights to led. Gave the cabinet interior a good cleaning and fixed a few minor issues. I cant wait to start taking it apart and doing a full repaint on this play field!
IMG_5911 (resized).JPGIMG_5912 (resized).JPGIMG_5913 (resized).JPGIMG_5914 (resized).JPGIMG_5915 (resized).JPGIMG_5922 (resized).JPGIMG_5928 (resized).JPGIMG_5929 (resized).JPGThe thing i noticed is when i tried to get a bit more light to the playfield all the sockets on mine are so far down hardly half of the bulb even sits above the playfield. Doing the repaint im going to have to redo every single one so they are the recessed type.
Im having a slight issue that's driving me up the wall. My top left slingshot is not working. Checking the solenoid driver board every thing appears fine and I still even swapped 2 transistors to just make sure and nothing has changed with the left upper slingshot. The leaf switches are fine and still work for scoring. The coil is fine as i jumped it and it still works perfect. All wires (Green-blue / Yellow) from the coil to driver board are conducting fine, wires from leafs to mpu (brown) are conducting fine.
Im confused.
I removed the boards and checked the board to pin connections with my tester and even re-floated them to be sure. Pulled back the wire connectors just enough to get the tester probe in when installed on the boards to test for connector to pin continuity and all was still good.
Quoted from slochar:Sounds like your predriver transistor array 3081 chip is bad. Can be tested with a logic probe.
Will need to look into that. My multi meter has no logic test mode. Might need to either get a designated unit or look into a better meter that has that option.
Quoted from Chosen_S:amazon.com link »
lol perfect. I ordered a better meter for myself and that same logic tester even before you posted. I just now need to learn how to test the 3081 with it. Looks like weebly makes a replacement setup for it.
Quoted from slochar:You test the inputs to the 3081's and the outputs. Really easy. Since you've already replaced the tip102/122, it's most likely the 3081 since that's the only thing in between the 4-16 decoder and the 102. The decoder is probably ok or you'd see some other solenoids not firing.
OK so i got my logic tester yesterday. Using one is still new to me so im not fully understanding the testing procedures fully. I took a close look at the U1 chip (ca3081) all indicated tabs in use on all seem to test the same between the 4 sling shots.
If i jump the tabs on the U1 for top right sling, bottom left sling and bottom right sling they fire. The top left sling will still not fire when I jump it. Putting the machine in test mode i do see that the pins #2 and # 3 on U1 are functioning like the the other 3 slings. So after confirming that i think its ok so say everything from the U2 decoder chip to the U1 transistor chip is functioning correctly.
Next i worked my way down to see what possibly was different between the 4 slings and the U1 chip. The three working slings gave me readings that confirmed that the transistors located at Q1, Q5, and Q6 were being triggered. I get nothing being triggered at Q2 (the defective sling). From that I would assume something between the Q2 transistor and the U1 is defective. I tested the cap, resistors and diode. All seem to check and all board connections between these items are reading as making contact. I even un soldered the diode, resistor and cap from a working sling and swapped them into the location of the non working sling and it changed nothing.
1 week later
Changed the U1 but same issue. Possibly the U2 chip now? Need to try to find a possible replacement for that one.
Ok so pulled the board yet again. Went thru everything again, resistors and diodes. Everything last time checking seemed fine but I found the diode this time on that same left upper sling that was not reading correct. Switched it out and now everything works. Woot!
1 month later
Anyone else running the weebly setup? I was having issues with my boards so i got all new ones for my flash Gordon and flight 2k from weebly. Im running all his stuff in my Lectronamo with no issues but when powering up both machines the mpu fails to boot fully when the J2 connector is plugged in on the driver board. Im drawing a blank as to why this is happening.
IMG_6532 (resized).JPGQuoted from Lovef2k:Best bet is to email Andrew Spitler. He designed these and stands behind his products.
He has been eagerly helping me. He and myself are puzzled as to why this is happening on both the flash Gordon and f2k machines. When using his MPU with his new driver board the MPU will not finish booting, But if i change back to the old driver board it boots perfect. We are going to be doing more testing later today after work.
5 months later
Quoted from Reaper802:Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?
Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?[quoted image]
Send me the step files. I will also do a 3D printed test fit and I have a laser table at work I can do the stainless on.
Quoted from Reaper802:If anyone is has the hardware to scan their inlane plastics and send me the images it would be greatly appreciated. If you could print the scans and make sure the printed images matches the original that would be even better. I did the first runs on the scanner at work and it messed them up somehow. Work is closed until who knows when so I can't get new scans done.
Give me a few minutes. I will just scan mine and draw them up in solidworks.
I have a new set of plastics to install so i scanned them. i noticed when stacking them they are not the same right to left side.
Quoted from cottonm4:You cannot align to the flipper bushing hole. You need to have your flippers installed and see how the guide lines up with the flipper base circle. Ideally, IMO, you want the guide to be just a few thousandths above the flipper base. This gives you a smooth transition from the guide to the flipper, i.e. your ball will not miss a beat.
And unless you want to start making a custom guide and exercising your math skills, the easiest way to correct the problem is drill a new hole in the proper position.
You can always just slightly slot all the holes in the vertical direction so that will let you move the plastic up or down.
1 month later
Quoted from Reaper802:wolffcub where did you go?
You need to say my name 3 times in a row while looking in a mirror then i will appear.
1 month later
Quoted from Reaper802:https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19R9uDQ_Mk0RSMTrzaIkI0VggqqneOQ4L?usp=sharing
The above link will provide access to left and right inlane guide STL files for either 3D printing or CNC work. I'm going to have a set cut in stainless steel. Enjoy.
Much thanks to the folks that did the test prints to ensure everything was spot on.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Glad to see the files I made worked for you. I cut some from some thin ga stainless I had laying around. The stainless looks decent on the playfield.
1 month later
Quoted from Lovef2k:Another thing is that these wear out and no replacement available. The hole on the arm eggs out and creates a lot of slop.
See my post about my fix. Easy to do and hardly any side or axial play after.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lectronamo-rebuild/page/7#post-4602455
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