Webster, NY
without going through the schematic why is there a connection from the lamp driver board to the speech module?
(Topic ID: 124724)
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Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Quoted from emsrph:Having pinball machines you either have to learn to fix them or pay someone to fix them.
Ain't that the truth. I say that to everyone who thinks they want to buy one even if it's one I'm selling.
Quoted from turboburt1:DanMarino, going back to that annoying sound coming consistently from speaker, I first toughed it was speaker doing it as I bought it with a small hole punched thru. Replaced speaker and nothing. After I burned the VSU-100, that humming noise was still there the same, so I toughed it must have been sound card. I replaced it with new sound card, but that noise continued till recently ended with replacing VSU-2.
This is good to know. I have the humming on f2k and catacomb which is even louder. It does go down when I lower the volume pot when the game is powered up but idle. Picking up a vs2 tomorrow as I am local to these guys.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I have zero hum coming from my f2k. I think it comes from a ground issue. I am still using stock sound and speech boards but I have recapped the sound board. Also repinned entire game's connectors.
One improvement I made was to the ground strap from the head going to the grounding plate behind the boards. The strap just had a single staple there so I added a screw to make a tighter connection. All boards are screwed down and grounded.
Another cause may be from the large caps on sol driver causing some feedback imo.
Make sure your cab grounds are solid and most importantly the AC plug has it's ground prong. You can also try grounding the speaker frame. I don't think Stern did that lime Bally did.
Thanks f2k. I tend to agree with your angle here. Definitely sounds like some type of ground issue. I'll start with the actual power cord and work my way back and try the vs2. I have a hum on centaur too so I think itz a ground pronlem
Quoted from DanMarino:Can any 6 inch (just a guess on size) speaker work down there?
full range with matching impedance (ohms). Pretty sure they are 8 ohm. I can check. I found some decent replacements on amazon for cheap. Like 9 bucks I think. I will take a look in a bit. I would avoid the car speakers with the separate tweeter. Tried one of those in my embryon and it sounded tinny.
RB
Quoted from DanMarino:Awesome rcbrown. Yes, an Amazon link would be fantastic for the speaker.
20210430_112442 (resized).jpg20210430_112503 (resized).jpgQuoted from DanMarino:Awesome rcbrown. Yes, an Amazon link would be fantastic for the speaker.
Quoted from DanMarino:The past 2 or 3 evenings I have been playing our Flight 2000 with my 23 year old son. He has a pretty stressful job and usually hits the basement when he gets home from work to unwind watching YouTube. However, my son really seems to be enjoying the machine now that our Flight 2000 is getting more reliable. The last several evenings we have struggled to "BLAST OFF". Typically we get the letters spelled on ball #3, but end up draining while doing the count down or before we can get the ball up into the launcher mechanism. Last night my son blasted off and got the multi-ball, only to have 2 of the balls drain down the middle almost immediately. haha. After about 6 games together I bailed out and he told me that the game is a lot of fun now that it is playing so well and we've fixed it up so much. I was talking to him to see if he was interested in getting rid of the game and upgrading to something modern and he certainly thinks Flight 2000 is a keeper.
haha I get multiball on f2k about 4 times a year and they all drain almost immediately. Don't sell it. All the new stuff is too easy with the ball saves and multiball pretty much every game. I went through a bunch of them and now most are gone. I bought my f2k years ago and did a full restore with clearcoat and the whole nine yards. Yesterday I went through it tweaked it up, adjusted the flippers, waxed it and put some 1x4's under the back legs. I'd much rather play that then metallica.
Quoted from Lovef2k:3 of my favorites in your pic. I'm jelly
seeing you and your f2k at pinfest quite a long time ago inspired me!
RB
1 week later
Quoted from DanMarino:How do you guys like to align your flippers? I see there are pins in the playfield below the flippers, but I'm not exactly sure what those are for. Visually, I think it looks best when the flippers align at the same downward angles as the in-lanes. Is there a flipper position that is ideal for playing the game?
I had the same opinion on the flipper alignment on the sterns. i didn't like the look of the droopy mom-tit flippers so I perked 'em up. As it turns out though, with classic stern flippers as well as actual mom-tits...your chances of scoring are way better.
RB
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from clodpole:It's possible the solenoid plunger is sticking in the tube, or that the plunger has "mushroomed" a bit at the end from its life of pounding, and is jamming up a bit. If you drop the solenoid off the bracket and inspect, or even just try working the plunger assembly in and out manually you may be able to feel if it's binding.
This is likely what's going on here. Pull the coil stop and inspect that and the plunger for "mushrooming". Clean out the sleeve and see if the linkage on the plunger is sloppy. Once you get your other issues solved i would order a rebuild kit from pinball life. your coil stop orientation is a mess and it looks like someone used the wrong screws and glue to secure it. get that shit outta there and rebuild both flippers at the same time. you will be amazed at the difference.
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-flipper-rebuild-kit-left-and-right-flippers.html
RB
Quoted from DanMarino:Well, it stopped working again. The plunger, coil stop, and end of stroke switch are all new.
Back to the drawing board. At least I got a few games in. haha.
Unless it's just the angle that coil stop looks out of position to me. I shouldn't be able to see the end of the sleeve. Also do those flipper bats have the grooves? I find those cause issues when they get chewed up. I replace them with bats with no grooves when needed.
1 week later
Quoted from DanMarino:I installed 2 new complete flipper assemblies and the flippers appear to be working fine. I do get an occasional loud feedback noise that lasts a second or two when the machine turns on. So I will work on replacing the large capacitors on the solenoid driver board next.
I think there is a mod that can be made on the sound board for the screeching sound at startup on these. I have the same issue on mine. pretty sure that screech is there naturally but there's a circuit that blanks out the audio on startup. I will see if i can find the post about it.
1 month later
Quoted from DanMarino:LoveF2K, I installed all new flipper assemblies, coils, brackets, coil stops, coil sleeves, end of stroke switches, everything was new except for the old flipper bats.
Pull the flipper bat out and look at the groove marks where the set screws bite. I get this quite often when I try to reuse old bats. I know some don't agree but I replace them with the longer ones from pbr that have no groove and they always work for binding issues on the old bats that seem to go away when you adjust then return after a few games.
Quoted from clodpole:Good job DanMarino; those mechanisms are very sensitive to slight misalignments as well as friction on the sliding or rotating parts. Your cleaning job should help.
You'll laugh, but when I first learned how to clean up solenoids, I was able to repair our home's doorbell. It had rung the "ding" but not the "dong" for years. The same kind of cleaning you just did fixed it!
Excellent plunger-polishin' ding dong work.
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