Where are you at with F2K these days?

First thing to do is measure TP1 on rectifier/power supply board. If you have between 4.8V and 5.4V there then your're good. If not, check fuse with a meter. You may have a problem with your connectors and the connection from the rectifier to the SDU is breached.

If you have any burnt connectors at the rectifier board, replace them. Try to use Trifurcon connectors on the heavy wires. Actually you should replace all the connector pins at the rectifier board eventually to make the game reliable.

Make sure the connectors are fully seated on the rec board. Check ground (important) between the rect ground and SDU J3 pin 10, should have continuity. Make sure the ground braid from the cabinet is connected to the ground screw at the bottom of the backbox. Remove SDU J3 connector and re-seat it a few times. J3 should also have a jumper wire ( brown/white) between pins 25 and 13. If that's missing you need to replace it.

I'm looking at the 5V section of the SDU schematic and it's confusing to me. I know TP1 and 3 should be 5V but I'm not sure which one is the regulated 5V. I'm leaning towards TP1 being the regulated 5V. So if there's 5V at the YP3 and not 1, I would say the regulator (LM-323) or some of the 5V regulator components are bad, C24 and/or C25.

For all other TP values, go to pinwiki.com Bally/Stern section 3.21. The Baly AS-2518-18 rectifier value are the same for Stern TA-100.

I'm regretting selling you that lock down bar LOL. Do you have the manual for F2K with the schematics inside? Do your feature lamps light up at all, even when first powering up? What is the game doing when you power on? Do your connectors look healthy, this includes the header pins? Do you have another game with the same SDU board that you can swap for testing? Bally and Sterns are interchangeable. Check your ground as I suggested. See if there's any voltage at SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17 and also 25 on the connector side, not the header. You may need to insert a small pin or finish nail into the connector to make contact to your meter leads. Get a replacement 5V regulator at least. LM 323 or equivalent. Any Voltages at the MPU test points? Refer to Pinwiki sect 3.21

Don't be sorry, I'm glad you're enjoying it and that it's getting the proper use. Yeah, keep us in the loop. Especially what happens at start up. You need 12V and 5V at the MPU before it will boot. The first flicker (not flash) of the MPU is the 5V circuit doing it's thing. 5V runs the logic circuit of the MPU. So right now you may be getting GI lamps and a faint glow at the lower portion of the displays? If you do re-pin the rect connectors, only use the Trifucon on the heavy wires. I replaced all the pins on J3 once with all Trifurcon and the connector was very hard to push on without bending the rect pcb.

Congrats on the F2K addition, I hope your folks gave you a break on the price LOL?

The first thing I would do is re-pin the connectors at the rectifier board TA-100. I'm not sure how much you know about pinball so I will try to explain what each part is called so don't think I'm trying to be smart, I just want to help as much as I can from my experience with F2K, also my first pin.

So the white plastic part that holds the connector pins are known as housings. For most 70's and 80's games they used Molex brand pins and housings. So J3 connector at the rect board is a 20 position molex housing with .156 in spacing. J1 is 8 position and so on. The header pins on the board itself are also .156 in spacing. The smaller headers and connectors such as the MPU and lamp driver are .100 in spacing. This is how you will identify which ones to buy.

The header pins on your rect board look crusty so I def replace those if you plan to keep that board for a while. Personally I would swap it out for a repro board from NVRAM.weebly. He makes the best replacement.

The bridge that was soldered to the front of yours (speaker wire) runs the displays and sends 185V to the SDU driver board so be careful not to touch any of the wires running from it when the game is powered up. You can leave it the way it is if the score displays are working but you should attach a heat sink to it. You can buy one that can bolt right onto it. Just use heatsink compound between the metal surfaces. https://www.sager.com/624-45abt3-424382.html?utm_source=googlemerchant&utm_medium=click&utm_campaign=sager-brand&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsmIrCQPrS_ramMXLLE90hVh1vyVVNWT5HNqvazoD4-TRV5wU6g6u6RoCP4kQAvD_BwE for example.

As far as missing wire, not all spaces of the connectors are always used. There will be blanks and a space known as the "key" where the will be a filler plug in a specific space in each housing to prevent the connector from being installed on the wrong pins. On your J1 rect board connector I see pin number 8 was badly burned. This is common because the GI lamps pull alot of current. That's where the white wire should be but it looks like somebody moved the white wire to pin 5 which is fine since it is tied in with the GI supply (bus)

As far as lamps not lighting up. You are right about the lamp sockets. They are old and the insulator on the bottom dry rots and causes looseness. Replacement can be found at Marco Specialties. Going with LED in the GI will definitely reduce the strain on the rect board and it's connectors.

If you want to do LED on the switched lamps, you need to buy a Alltek lamp/LED driver board. Stern games with speech have special instructions for the Alltek so you need to read the instructions thoroughly. There's a jumper harness that goes from the speech board (VU-100) to the lamp driver board, I believe to J4. 2 wires need to be cut to avoid switched illum power from back feeding to the speech board, but you find that in the Alltek manual.

As far as the drop targets falling down. It could be that they are just worn out. They have a small lip on the front that catches the metal tab of the memory coil release mech. They might be slipping off. Also sometimes the metal tabs have to be tweaked. Since this game has been HOU for so long, I think the target bank is still in good shape and shouldn't need any modifications. Also the lift bar under it is adjustable by loosening the allen screws.

Also you should probably replace the balls to save the playfield. Most home pin owners don't know that the balls should be replaced when shopped out. The balls become pitted over time from use and corrosion.

I have the CPR glass and they did a nice job on it so don't hesitate to buy one, I don't think will rerun it any time soon, since I think this is the 3rd run since 2007.

The chart in the manual doesn't show the rubber behind the #1 drop target. Sometimes the rubber size is stamped on the playfield in the white area under the plastics where the rubber goes. To me it looks like a 3/4 or a 1 inch should work there. If you replace the drop targets, you should go a 1/4 in shorter on the rubbers behind the target 2-3 and 4-5. The reason for this is because the newer targets tend to "brick" meaning the target will not drop when hit straight on from a hard hit ball. It's a mystery why this happens, I believe that the newer plastics are softer and tend to bend when hit hard. Using a smaller size rubber will stretch the rubber and become thinner and therefore create more space behind the targets.

Do yourself a favor and buy some extra rubbers of various sizes to keep on hand. Keep them stored air tight in a ziploc bag. Here's a cross reference chart from Pinball Resource. The last column shows Chicago Coin/ old Stern which is the one you want. http://www.pbresource.com/Rubberref.html

You can buy these from Pinball Resource, he sells good quality, Happ or Wico brand. If you never ordered from them before, you will need to send a personal check for payment before he ships your order. He doesn't to Paypal or credit. After the first order, once you establish good credit with them, all orders will be shipped before you send a check and then you mail him a check once order is received. I know! He's old school!

If the game was resetting, that's a sign of the 5v regulator going out. LM323, order one and replace it and see what happens.

Yes. Non-ribbed. Slight hammer tone grey like the coin door. The inside corner at the bottom where the leveler screws in should be rounded off.

Put the black lead on the transformer or cab braid ground. See if the board has burn traces on the back side.

Good call. I have been waiting for someone else to chime in. I forgot about the jumper trick.

Now that I'm home, I can try to answer some of your questions. I have been studying the SDU schematic a little more cus now I'm curious as well. So it looks like 12V unregulated comes from the rect board J3 pin 8 so it will be A2-J308. A2 identifies rect board. I looked at your pics again. I noticed they used 2 10 position connector housings for J3 instead of a single 20 pos which is fine. I verified by the schematic that they installed correctly. Since this is a .156 connector, it is large enough to insert the meter probe in there to make sure you have 12V at that point. A2-J308 has a thinner orange wire. There should be a green ground wire coming from under the transformer L bracket and going to the rect board mounting plate. you should be able to use that as ground point to take voltage readings. We are measuring DC for this. Only Gi is AC. Since you said that you got 12V at the SDU by fiddling with the J3 connector, it would be safe to say that the connector or header pin is the weak point. You also said that it looks like somebody reflowed the header? This could be were the issue lies. Pull the SDU out and get a magnifying glass if you have one. If there is a solder bridge between pins 10 and 11, this will cause 12V to short to the transformer ground. Pins 11 and 12 should be soldered as one behind the J3 header. Pin 12 is coming from A2-J308 (12V) and splits off to the MPU 12V supply via pin 11. Just make sure that pin 10 SDU J3 is not touching the other pins with solder. Take something sharp and score a line between them if necessary. Also with the J3 connector removed, find something small and metal that will fit in the connector slot so you can take a reading of pin 12, orange wire. You should get the same result as from A2-J308.

So what I gather from the SDU 5 volt section of the schematic, this 12V (TP5) goes to the regulator LM-323 and comes out as 5V regulated (TP1) and then to SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17. These run the MPU, lamp driver and score displays.

So if you have 12V at TP5 and below 4.8V at TP1, then the regulator and/or C23 are bad.

As far as rect board ground test point, there is none. Ground enters the rect at J210 from the transformer.

I have seen 2 variations of the 10K bonus insert. The faded purple and solid blue, the same as the smaller blue. CPR's F2K PF has the blue 10K insert, so I guess their sample had that variation. It may be possible that they ran out of one or the other during mfg. My current game has the faded purple one, I think I put white lamp under mine.

Those are wrong. Where did you get them?

I was taking a closer look at these. Judging by the irregularity of the cut pieces it may be possible to remove them? The back side of the pin has the locking tab, maybe you can slip them apart without cutting? Even if they were originally shipped as a roll, I can't see why someone would separate them.

Welcome!

First thing to do is disconnect the ground strap that comes from the cabinet and screws to the bottom of the head if it was attached. Unplug all connectors that are coming from the cab to the boards in the head and any wire to wire square connectors. Once they are all free, drop the harness down into the cab. There's a long harness that goes from the head to the rectifier board by the transformer. Unplug J3 from the rectifier board and the connector for the speaker volume. Then pull that harness up out of the cab and through the head. Remove bolts.

Good luck with it. Hit this thread of you need more help...

Congrats on the F2K!

First off you won't get the final 7th flash of the MPU without the coil voltage.

Coil voltage fuse blowing, could be bad BR3 on the rectifier board since the fuse comes before the bridge rectifier. Could also be a shorted VR1 on the rect board.

Could also be the coin lockout coil shorting. Pull the coin door connector and try that.

There is coil voltage coming in at the solenoid driver J3, and that's the only one you didn't disconnect. J3 is where the flipper enable comes in. Pull that one too.

This is a stretch but R113 and R16 are where the 43V comes in at the MPU. Maybe one of them shorted.

If you have the Alltek MPU, it's normal for the spaceman blurp at power up, mine does it. It was covered in a prior thread. No harm if you leave it.

There's a fuse under the playfield for coils, minus the flippers. If you had a shorted coil, that use would blow first unless someone put a higher value fuse in there.

So it sounds like your coil stops came loose from the flipper mechs? Typical of the early sterns. They used very cheap hardware and usually the screw holes strip out. The Stern flippers work best with the original style copper colored stops. The repro stops are not as good even though the look similar. You can rob the stops from the sling shots since they usually don't wear as much. Replace the stops with these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-coil-stop.html

Or full assembly, just swap the coil stops as I explained:

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html

Glad it worked out for you. Are you going to get a replacement rectifier board? Or keep the Bally set up for now?

Wow, you're not wasting any time! All 4 slings operate separately. Bottom right sling is Q6 on the driver board. First check connector pin Sol drv. J2 pin 11. Or temporarily jump the coil from the lug with the Gr/red wire to ground and see if it fires. If the coil looks burnt or the mech is stuck, you need to replace it.

switch errors are a pain. Did you verify no closed switches during the initial self test feature. The balls need to be removed and all drop targets reset. The display should read 0 if all switches are open. If a switch is reading closed and is physically open, then there's an error in the switch matrix. Most commonly caused by shorted caps. But the trick is finding which one. You can snip one at a time and re-solder them later. Start with the unnecessary caps first like the tilt mechs. A bad diode can cause this as well but they are harder to test. One lead of the diode has to be removed from the circuit by clipping. A good VOM with a diode tester helps. A good diode will read about 60mV IIRC. Diodes don't fail as much as the caps. The caps are old and leak over time. It's best to replace them anyway. The value for them is .05 micro farad and anything over 10V rating should be fine. The .05 mf is hard to find these days but you can use the more common .047 mf just fine. Diode is 1N4004

Another thing I would check is J2 on MPU, connectors and header pins. It's possible that somebody may have worked on the MPU and caused a short on the header.

Sweet! Another F2K coming back to life!

As I suggested earlier. Check the caps. My f2k also has random phantom firing of the top left sling shot. It's not a matrix issue. Something to do with feedback in wiring. It a pop bumper is firing randomly it could be the switch adjusted too close and picking up vibration.

It's correct. just move that wire out of the way. the down rod should be resting in the groove at the end of the blade.

There was a Pinsider that screened new F2K spinners for me 3 years ago. I just messaged him and asked if he can make more so I will let you know if he replies. I know it was a long time ago...

There was a Pinsider that screened new F2K spinners for me 3 years ago. I just messaged him and asked if he can make more so I will let you know if he replies. I know it was a long time ago...

The stands were originally pressed on. It looks like a one piece design but I think they are actually 2 pieces. At the top, it looks like some type of eyelet that was pressed and flared over the top of the plastic. You can try using a hollow tube like metal tool on the underside and a center punch with a flaring angle and gently tap them down. Something like these?

https://www.amazon.com/SE-ST1020I-Center-Punch-Piece/dp/B006U5QS1Y/ref=sr_1_41

The largest one would probably work.

PM sent

I just looked at these pics closer. If the top plastic was changed, it's possible that somebody may have drilled out the tops of the stands to remove them from the original plastics. If that's the case, there's not much you can do except source some used plastics and remove the stands. the easiest way is to use a soldering iron tip and heat them up and apply pressure until they pop out. Follow Gatecrasher's method to re-install them. He posted it somewhere on PS. If I find the thread I will post it here.

I asked Mr_Tantrum to design custom apron cards for F2K. Designed, printed and received in less than a week! They are heavy high quality cards. Pics in original apron:

P7260058 (resized).JPG

P7260059 (resized).JPG

Instructions vary from what ever the game dips were set to. These games came with many cards so the ops could choose the one that fit whatever options were chosen. Eg. I have my game set to award extra balls instead of free games so that I can get the highest score possible. I'm sure Mr_Tantrum can make the card with the instructions to fit your needs.

I want to add, the game points awarded and and rules can change depending on a 3 ball game compared to a 5 ball game setting.

If you're doing a full respray rustoleum safety blue and safety yellow.

I think F2K uses all 60, good idea though!

That is a bummer but what I like is that during MB and you hit the spot blast target, you have a head start for the next MB. It's rare but I have gotten MB twice before the last ball drained. Also someone was working on the software to change the locking ball during Mb. I never followed up with him. I'll have to check the archives on RGP/

That doesn't look all that bad. You should probably change the LED's to warm white or put some red in behind the flight 2000 part. This is the 2010 CPR in my game.

PB050223 (resized).JPG

PB050224 (resized).JPG

PB050225 (resized).JPG

PB050230 (resized).JPG

Luck of the draw at this point. There is a NOS on Ebay I think.

Back in the early 80's when I played this in the arcades I got desperate one day cuz I loved to play but was out of money. I had a nickel and threw into the SBA slot and got 6 credits. It didn't work every time , I had to throw it in just right to fool the coin mech, ahh the ol' days.

Best bet is to email Andrew Spitler. He designed these and stands behind his products.

Bay Area also has a nice assortment of inserts.

I probably have a spare I could mail to you. I will let you know in a day or 2.

Not sure what you mean by plastic coil holders. Are you referring to the pop bumper main body under the pf?

The screws are going to be a pain. I know by experience. They will spin when trying to remove the cap nuts. They have a blind stud that come up from the underside of the pf and there's no tool that will hold it and will may need to break or cut them. You'll see once you get into it. Also be careful note that there are 2 different sizes of the red posts.

I have been thinking long and hard about this. I'm thinking of selling my restored F2k. I need money for other projects. It won a blue ribbon at Pinfest 2015 for best restored classic SS pin.
The game has had only 150 to 200 plays since restore. More or less eye candy for me and obviously by my PS handle a lot of passion and planning went into the restoration. I actually have done two F2K restores. First one sold in 2012 for $6500. The only difference is the first one had chromed side rails. The side rails on this game were made by Doug Hughes from Let's Play Pinball. Stern wide body games have a longer rail than standard and nobody else made rails for this game so I'm the only person that has them. The game still looks better than new inside and out. Since the resto is 5 years old I will shop it out though it really doesn't need it.

Key points:

Rescreened original pf. CPR did the re-screen at the same time as their repro f2k was made. So same artwork but original board with new inserts installed by me. The dark blue and translucent green inserts were sanded and reused to keep the deep colors.

CPR plastics and 2010 run CPR glass.

Brand new pf tempered pf glass

Two bits MPU with fix it board that will run any Bally/Stern game from 77 to 1984

Alltek solenoid and lamp driver

New rectifier board

Tasteful LEDs

The following have been chromed:
Lock down bar, coin entry bezel, coin eject button and flapper, transformer L brackets and shooter rod.

The list just keeps going. Some of you may have seen or played it at Allentown so you know the game. It is still blanketed and shrink wrapped from last years show.

I know this post should be on the market place page but I want the people in this club to see it first. I don't think there will be enough space at my spot at pinfest to set it up this year and I'm not interested in shipping it. Anyone can stop by my place in south Jersey if they want to see it. I will bring it to pinfest with a significant deposit. Please ask me any questions you may have by PM Asking price is $5500

Sorry for the long post.

If anyone had these still it would be Pinball Resource. How many to you need? I may have a few spares.

Also you should try to remove the surface rust from the ones you do have. I run them in a tumbler with walnut media. Or dip them in Evapo-Rust for a few minute and then wipe them with a light oil.

The part number for the pin is 2A-230 and the E clip is 17A-104-25

Also check the floor of the cabinet for any small parts, you'll be amazed at what you might find. Drag a magnetized screw driver through the crap in the bottom of the cab.

Did you see my other post #658?

There are not too many replacement switches for early solid state games. You may find some generic switches and few direct replacements. Usually you will need to rebuild the switch.

Pinball Resource has the parts to rebuild them. Universal blades that you can to length and install new gold flashed contacts on them. Usually you can reuse the old bakolite stacks and the plastic cylinders that hold them together. Buy all 3 gauges of blades that they offer so you have them on hand. Might as well replace the diode while your at it.

Cut to length

I can probably scrounge up an SBA mech if you need one. F2K also mt first SS pin, hence my pinside and rgp name. Had 4 so far, have a beautiful resto that I did on the current one.

There was no knocker on F2K. Electronic sound was added since there wasn't enough room on the sol driver for it.

The knocker on early sterns is located on the plywood base next to the rectifier board, look to the right, you may see 2 small pre-drilled holes.

Classic stern/bally solenoid driver circuits have 16 drivers for the coils IIRC. Since F2K has 5 coils just for the 1-5 drop targets, a third of them were used up, leaving only 11 drive circuits. EBD is another game with excessive coils. Bally designed a special board for that game called the solenoid expander board. (SEB)

I think there's a blast sound when winning exta ball.

Correct. No knocker on F2K

+1

Could use a system 80 pop bumper driver board.

Oh yeah! I'm ready to see how you do with F2K. I did 2 of them. I would definitely bead/sand blast those legs and hit them with Rustoleum Hammer tone paint. Same color as the coin door. I have all the tech cards and labels for sale if you want a set for $35. I even have the little sticker that goes on the 2 switches on the coin door.

+1

All of the GI lamps on f2k are low. Don't know why. Maybe to keep them from melting the plastics? They are a pain to change the bulbs.

if you're going LED, I don't see why you can't use the staple down sockets.

Good point, I thought of that also. It's like the brick pattern on the floor of my Seawitch. I'm still trying to figure out why Bally used particle board for the cabinet back and back box rear panesl starting around 1980.

Try Cliffy,

https://www.passionforpinball.com/products.htm

Those metal guides were added later. A service bulletin was made available back then. I know about the ball hop but always figured it was because of the low inlane guide not the wire.

I guess it's just preference at this point. You can make it 2 layers by adding more stands offs like ebd. I'm thinking of doing that to mine.

Another problem with flipper hop on the early Sterns is that the original flipper bats are NLA. The reproductions are fatter and causes a not so smooth transition to the flipper from the inlane.

Love me some F2K, even at a 90 degree angle LOL!

I had the same problem. it was the clearcoat finish keeping the ball from rolling down. Try to increase the pitch of the play field. If that doesn't work you may have to cut a groove in the clearcoat with sand paper folded so that you can cut a straight line. This will allow the balls to flow better.

That may be a temporary fix. When I restored my game I completely disassembled the Walker assembly. replaced the nyliners with new and applied white lithium grease where it had been originally from factory.

I have noticed this problem with other clear coated pfs where the clear will create a "dam" and block slow rolling balls. F2k had 2 places where this happened on my game. The walker and trough area.

It's not that difficult. take pics as you do it.

If you recently changed the MPU to a new production board you will get the belch, mine does it ad it's annoying. It can also could be the addition of new sound ribbon cables. I'm pretty sure if you disrupt the connections of pins 33 and 34 from either J5 MPU or at the top connector of the SB-300 as they are not used. It doesn't hurt anything. Ask Andrew Spitler about what causes it. He is nvram.weebly.com

It is also mentioned on Pinside but I forget what thread, it may even be this one.

I would definitely re-pin all the connectors on the rectifier board. You can also have a failing BR1 or 2 cause the drops in the GI and sound. Transformers rarely go bad, but you're doing the right thing starting at the power supply first. Do the GI's dim when activating flippers?

If you still suspect the wall outlet voltage is a problem, try running a fan from there and listen for changes in motor speed.

Get familiar with the site if you haven't done so: pinwiki.com Bally/Stern section.

In most home settings, people disconnect the coin lockout coil. The coin lockout coil is a constant coil and should be controlled by the solenoid driver. Run coil test and observe the action of the locking mech on the coin door. You can also manually add credits by gently pressing down on the trip wire at the micro switch.

System crackles? Please explain. Are you using a Alltek lamp driver with the LEDs? If so, there are specific instructions when using a Alltek w Stern speech games. Double check all of the work performed so far, shorts of trace wire or wiring to the sockets. One time when doing a restore I found a LED lamp with a solder blob stuck to the bottom base of the lamp. It shorted and burned out the scr. So you never know when using after market products on these old games.

Ok, It may be that the BR1 bridge rectifier on the power supply board is checking out or maybe something is amiss on that board,TA-100. These are often hacked up and re-worked by now, or maybe replaced with a new board? I see Reaper802 beat me to the punch lol.

But the static is making me wonder about the sound board SB-300.

The easiest thing to do now is verify that the Alltek lamp driver has been installed correctly. I couldn't find the complete manual for it online but this is a start:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0071/0810/0141/files/Lamp_Driver_Manual_A_6.pdf?132 but this is missing the last page (6) with the Stern speech game instruction for some reason.

You may even have the manual for it? If so that's great. First verify that the jumper from Alltek J13 was installed and wired into the feature lamp bus line and not the GI bus line, easily confused between the two. Then go to Alltek J4 connector wires going to the top connector of the speech board(VSU-100).

You should see that the wires between J4 lamp driver to the speech board have been cut or removed. You will also see on the left side of the Alltek J4 header pins 9 and 10 marked :SW Illu bus voltage. If there is still a connection there, it could have damaged the switch ill. power supply.

If all that is good, go back to the sound board and pull the connector J2 and see if you still get the brown out.

Yes the connections for the wires have a through hole. Solder both sides for the best connection. Keep the connections tight and make sure nothing touches the face of the mounting bracket. There should be a piece of fish paper between the back of the rectifier board and the bracket to prevent shorts.

Congrats on getting F2K. Yes F2K can be a drain monster sometimes, especially when achieving multi-ball. slochar has re-worked the software to improve the game features so you may want to look into that.

There is a dip switch setting on the MPU for background sound option, not sure if speech is involved there. It's Sw 14. Always power down the game before changing any dip settings.

The VSU-100 board is for the speech. The speech processor chip S14001A often can fail. The problem is it's expensive and herd to find these days. Another thing to look for is a jumper wire on the reverse side of the SB-300. This needs to be there for speech to work. If the board was swapped from a non-speech game it's possible that there is no jumper. see photo. Also make sure the connectors for lamp driver J4 to the VSU-100 are tight. I hope one of these solves the issue.

SB-300 Speech Jumper Wire (resized).png

AH I missed this the first time I looked at the dip switch chart. SW is for Speech (talking feature). SW 17

Yes. Looks like it is on already.

Another thing is that these wear out and no replacement available. The hole on the arm eggs out and creates a lot of slop.

Thanks for posting these but I should have been more clear, I was referring to the arm A-157-1 and the pivot A-143. I'm not sure which part wears out more but there will be a lot of side to side motion (slop) when severely worn.

The new coils usually come with diodes pre-installed and also come with a new sleeve. I don't remember for sure but there should also be a spring washer installed between the coil and coil bracket.

The board looks to be installed upside down. The expensive chip is the 40 pin
S14001A speech rom. U8 I think?

U9 looks like an eprom specific to F2K which I never knew they had. Yes j4 lamp driver goes to the speech board. I don't fully understand but I think the speech board gets prompts from certain lamps either when on or turning off. Make sure that jumper harness is installed correctly. I think it's keyed but not sure.

After my previous post I had to look at my game because I couldn't remember how the vsu was connected.

This could be your issue hopefully, lamp driver j4 should be going to vsu J1 not J2. The brown connector goes to J2. Oddly though both headers J1 and 2 are keyed the same which is dumb. Hopefully no damage occurred from these being reversed.

And no the self test only tells you if things are working or not, no diagnosis.

I'm no electronic whiz but I think you need a logic probe and a vom to test eproms and other micro chips.

Maybe @ Slochar will chime in on that.

Glad to help. No only the board itself was upside down. The IC chips looked ok. Note the white outline on the board showing the notch on the IC. And they matched.

If you think the jumper harness from J4 to J1 is wrong just see if the pins match up. On each board you should see a small number printed near each header. A number 1 denotes that is pin 1 on the header and at the other end will be another number which indicates the last number of pins. As long as pin 1 from J4 matches pin 1 to vsu J1 you should be good. That's why they are keyed to prevent reversing the connection.

Have you powered it up after putting the connectors in the correct locations?

Rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab or ball. Keep rubbing contacts until no dirt shows on the cotton. Never use anything abrasive not even paper towels.

Good stuff. I have used the header pin trick for troubleshooting but not testing.

I just posted a very nice F2K in the classifieds of the market place.

BTW, can someone please show me where to find the seller fees here on PS?

Thank you sir!

Thanks! So there's no set fee? I thought it went by the amount of the sale.

how's this one? ebay.com link: Carling Technologies 2Gk54 73 Toggle Switch Dpst 10A 250V Screw

For some reason I knew you would say that!

I haven't purchased those from ebay, just in my watch list. I never thought the power switch would only partially fail, just figured that if it powers up, the switch is good. Now that I know this, I will replace the power switch on future restores.

Your crimps on the connector look really iffy. These connector pins have a 2 part crimp. The first crimp grabs the bare wire. The second crimp should crimp the insulation for a nice tight grip. So you need to actually do 2 crimps per wire. Also need to make sure no bare wire interferes with the springy part of the pins. You only need to strip about an 1/8th of an inch of insulation. Are you using the Waldom crimper? If so, yellow or red handles? I like the yellow for this size.

The connection at the speech board shouldn't be affecting the coils. Unless your off on the pins and throwing off the software somehow. You may have switch issues as well.

Does it crimp both side at once? I have something similar but I find it difficult to use, seems like it was made for a lefty to me. I always go back to the Waldom.

I never saw one like that and I have had 4 of these so far. I noticed another difference from his to mine. The lettering on mine is white below those inserts and in front of the 1 to 5 drops. Plus the 1st and 3rd.line on mine are underlined.

Must different supplier or early version. Possibly a prototype?

Just curious what is the serial number on cab? Front left of coin door usually 4 numbers stamped in the wood.

I'm surprised that this didn't come up when cpr did the repro. I know there's an earlier version that has a different out hole mechanism and some guys had to convert to the newer out hole parts. I think there were too many issues with the earlier type.

They are not. Trifurcon connectors connect to 3 sides of the square pins. I have only seen them in the .156 size.

Oh I thought he was still working on the vsu connectors

correction. They are Trifurcon connectors. I usually only use them on the heavier wires or higher current circuits such as GI or coils. I once did the 20 pin connector in all trifurcon and the first time inserting the connector to the board was difficult. It needed extra force to fully seat the housing which caused the board to bend more than I was comfortable with.

I see the confusion now. The Marco listing you posted seems incorrect. It says for dash 17 or 35 which is the mpu but the items shown look like power supply connectors which are .156. The one you are working on on speech board are .100 and not Trifurcon.

The serial number u have is midstream production so I don't believe you have an early game. Unless the cab is a different number. Look on left front of cab.