(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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#1042 3 years ago

I just purchased a Flight 2000 and love it. Having trouble with the ball launcher up in 1st stage chute. Ball gets dropped into chute from collection area at left and it tends to just sit there for a minute and then "wakes up" to launch it over to the 2nd stage chute. This is not a problem when I first boot up the machine. Best I can figure is the CPU is telling it to activate at boot up, but during play the microswitch hair trigger is not working reliably. My assumption is that the contacts on the microswitch need cleaned. Am I right? If so, this seems like a bear to get to. I am still a little nervous about lifting the play field for maintenance. Any advice about safest way to lift and stabilize the play field for maintenance?? PS - How do you clear the High Score to Date?

#1046 3 years ago

EMSRPH - thanks for quick response
Yes could need cleaning or gap adjusted (with power off). Maybe try bending wire actuator up just a tad so ball presses down switch more. Does the switch register if you press it by hand?
It's either a slow response (30 sec - 2 minutes) or not at all. I'll give bending wire actuator up a bit more to see if that works.

If lifting playfield remove the three balls first. Lift front and pull playfield toward you. Playfield will ride on metal runners and then drop down onto wood. Pull it to the end of the travel and then rest top of playfield against the backbox. Don’t use prop rod ever.
I know. That single prop rod is lame! I'm a little leary of letting playfield drop down onto wood. Afraid of damaging, loosening something from impact. Game is 40 years old right?

Returning playfield down you need to lift back edge up onto the metal runners while holding the front up also. Not fun. Maybe someone has a better method than that.

#1047 3 years ago

SLOCHAR- thanks for quick response as well. Not savvy on the PB jargon yet. I think it's the first kickbigs(?) And yes I think its the leaf switch as well. I have no idea if there is a capacitor on it yet, but it was working semi OK for a week. It would sometimes kick right away, sometimes delay for 30 sec - 2 min. Sometimes not at all. So I need to clean the contact pads right? Use business card (non inked area) or some other rough paper right? Recommendation?

Where is the "advance" button on the coin door? Inside or outside? My unit has 2 white buttons on the left end on the inside, but I've tried them. I assume they are the "clear" buttons?

#1049 3 years ago

OK thanks all!

3 months later
#1287 3 years ago

I just had the 3A SB Line In Fuse blow. I had a problem with the EOS lock shut on the right flipper. Coil burned up. Are the flippers on the circuit where the 3A SB fuse blew or do I have 2 separate issues?

3 weeks later
#1293 3 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a Flight2000 general repair/maintenance kit? ie. an assortment of replacement bulbs, solenoids, rubbers, spinners, etc that are the high wear items that need most frequent replacement? I hate paying shipping on the piece meal repairs I am making.

1 year later
#1775 1 year ago

Houston, we have a problem with the Flight 2000.
Game started acting very weird Saturday. Started registering additional points from previously knocked down targets automatically, all solenoids stopped working, then automatically ending game. I think it's possibly something in the solenoid section of the rectifier board. About 6 months ago it started doing this weird stuff after a long session of playing so I shut it down and let it cool down. That solved the problem for a while. I would assume it allowed the thermal protector to reset? This time though an overnight shutdown did not work. However the solenoids inside the walker were working very weakly for about a minute then I lost all solenoids again for good. I'm guessing the thermal protector is shot?? All fuses are OK (dang! easiest fix never the problem) Anyway. Just wondering why a non functioning solenoid section of the board would have these weird scoring symptoms. Also, I'm planning to just replace the entire TA-100 board. Makes sense?

#1777 1 year ago

The voltage at the transformer rectifier board is 43V. Pretty much dead on. I didn't check across any of the solenoids. The fuses all show continuity. Actually I was checking all the contacts for quality in the Molex connectors and pin headers and found that J1 had a terminal that had backed out. I think it was the wire for the solenoid bus, but I have to admit I'm not absolutely sure cause the wire colors don't match the schematic. I pushed it back in place and booted up the game. The solenoids worked and I played the game for about a minute and then solenoids went dead again. Double checked that wire again and it still won't work. Fuse still checks OK. Could the discontinuity now be up in the solenoid bus? Also, now when I boot it up I still get the 7 dings, but the start button won't initiate a new game. Seems like it's locked up.

#1780 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Depending on where the balls are at bootup, F2k runs the walker 7 times to walk them out. If your solenoids aren't working obviously this can't take place.
It's not locked up, it's waiting to see the balls. It will eventually give up and show the normal displays/lamp show.

The balls are out of the walker. They are down in the collection tray or whatever you call it. I actually did try placing a couple balls in the walker as well, but the solenoids aren't firing. In both cases the white push button won't initiate a new game. Should I check for voltage elsewhere? I think the solenoid bus is up in the top case correct??

#1781 1 year ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Have the connector and rectifier pins been replaced? If old they could be making poor contact especially when heat is generated from the bad contact.

They look original. Some areas of the post and connector housings are pretty dark brown, so it's obvious they've been overheated over the years. The contacts themselves don't look bad. Probably were replaced some time in life of machine. Anyway, I guess I should just buy a new harness kit to go with the new rectifier board I'm waiting to receive. Is there a solenoid bus up in the top case behind the glass? I was thinking I should check up there for 43V.

#1783 1 year ago
Quoted from emsrph:

The 43v solenoid voltage does go into the backbox to the solenoid driver board that controls the coils

OK. I'll check up there tonight to see if it's getting 43v from the harness at the rectifier board. My guess is it's not because the wiring/connectors are aged too much.

#1784 1 year ago
Quoted from KurtisEBear:

OK. I'll check up there tonight to see if it's getting 43v from the harness at the rectifier board. My guess is it's not because the wiring/connectors are aged too much.

I mated and unmated all the connectors at the rectifier and at the solenoid controller a few times to see if that would improve things and it did. The self test performed without a hitch. All solenoids firing and some better than before. But I still can't initiate a game when I push the button. I checked the button for continuity and it is good.
Is it possible that the coin lock out solenoid is the issue? Or is there some other reset or relay I need to check?

#1785 1 year ago

I mated and unmated all the connectors at the rectifier and at the solenoid controller a few times to see if that would improve things and it did. The self test performed without a hitch. All solenoids firing and some better than before. But I still can't initiate a game when I push the button. I checked the button for continuity and it is good.
Is it possible that the coin lock out solenoid is the issue? Or is there some other reset or relay I need to check?

#1788 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Absolutely not. That has zero to do with starting a game. All it does it move a lever to allow coins to drop when there is <max credits on the game.
Do you have credits on the game? Does the switch test show the credit button working?

I used to but didn't think to check that. The guy that I bought the machine from had it set up already, so I never learned how to do it for myself.
Maybe it got dumped somehow??? I certainly didn't change it. I wonder how it could have been eliminated.
Stupid question, but how do I start a game manually? Last time before all solenoids went dead I only had 2000 points from drop down targets, so maybe I never reached minimum points for free game.

#1790 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Look at the bottom of the coin mech you will see a switch (it might have a guard over it, depends on your coin door) - you 'flick' it to simulate a coin dropping. Of course if you have coin mechs in the door you can also drop a quarter through it.
The low replay thing is a trick from the past. Modern way to do it is update the roms to free play type. Weebly board has them built in. There's physical ways to do it as well, double up a switch on the credit button to add a credit. I have a couple of mine wired with a secondary switch that you hit the coin return to add a credit (despite having freeplay roms in all my games anyway.... sometimes nice to hear the coin drop sound, or if I want to do something like 'see how long I can make 4 credits last' type of things)

OK Rookie mistake. Yes I drained down my credits while trouble shooting the solenoid issue. Didn't realize that and obviously pushing start button stops initiating games. Dropped a quarter in the coin mech and walah game starts up. What a moron.

So another question. One of my LED score displays flickers like fake fireplace. Over time it slowly heals but inevitably goes back to crippled condition. What is the recommended method for solving that? Clean the contacts on the connector one by one or just replace the part. I'm a little worried I wont get one that matches color and form.

2 weeks later
#1808 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

If it's an original any stern 7 digit display will match.
Luckily that's usually an easy fix, you resolder the pins on the circuit board and the glass. There's likely a cracked solder joint on one of them (very common on the connector, not so common on the glass side)

OK So I lost all my playfield solenoids again. I have good voltage out of the rectifier and I know that the flipper branch works and the coin diverter branch works, but all the playfield solenoids are not activating. Running the self test verifies this. Nothing fires up when I get to the solenoid test. So my question is where are the main areas to check?

#1810 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

under playfield fuse is likely blown

When you say "under playfield fuse" are you talking about the one on the rectifier board or is there another one that I'm just not aware of? Because the one on the rectifier board looks fine ( and the flippers work ).

#1812 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Flippers will continue to work if the 1.25a slow blow is blown. The one you’re looking for is physically attached to the underside of the playfield, roughly between the flippers. It does not effect the flipper solenoids but all others on the playfield.

OK. I'm pretty sure I checked that one for continuity. Is it as simple as that or does a slow blow work differently?

#1814 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

You can check it the same as a fast blow fuses. Set meter to contuity test.

OK I did check it and yes it is blown!. I have some replacement fuses now and I will try to revive the system tonight.
In the event it blows the fuse again, what do I check for? I assume shorted out or frozen solenoids would blow the fuse, right?
I guess I can put a meter on all the solenoids individually before I turn on the power. Or just physically push the piston in and out to check for a locked up solenoid.

#1816 1 year ago
Quoted from swillie:

Had blown solenoid fuse on a friends F2K. A pop bumper solenoid was toasty. Replaced it and after the board startup sequence the pop bumper immediately locked on. Shut it off quickly. It was a failed driver transistor on the driver board. Quick fix I swapped the coin door lockout driver transistor with the bad one and has worked for years now.

OK So replaced the 1.25A SB and it booted up. Played for about 5 minutes but didn't send a ball up the stage area yet. Started another game and got a couple balls circulated through the walker and kick out. Then all of a sudden I lost the flippers. Checked all solenoids and nothing was active now. Checked new 1.25A SB and it was still good. Checked fuse at rectifier board and it is good. Probed test point and I get 43 V. Opened back box and plugged and unplugged J4. Rebooted and the walker cycled for about 2 seconds and then solenoid system went dead again. Retried unplugging and plugging J4 again a few times to no avail. I am thinking there has to be a short in the walker / staging area? Or a crack in the SDU board? Lifted playfield and the solenoids that are up there all feel free when moved by hand, so nothing frozen. I'm stuck.

#1818 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

The header pins do crack so need to be resoldered at a minimum.
The flippers do NOT go through the 1.25 fuse under the playfield - that fuse is just for the playfield solenoids minus the flippers. If you follow the power feed wire there are 2 going to the fuse holder input, one splits off and goes to the flipper power. The rectifier board fuse handles that one.
Likely you have a solenoid board issue start there. Pulling and reseating connectors to make something 'work' is not a permanent fix - it's more of a diagnostic tool letting you know that the connector needs attention.

I originally stated J2 but it was the J4 that has worked 3 or 4 times out of like 15 times to make the solenoids "wake up". Which pins should I check on that connection? I'm assuming I should pull the board and check the solder joints on the back if my connector is showing continuity.

#1820 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Pull the board and inspect closely all the solder mounds around each pin. You can try and wiggle the pin by hand and see if it's loose.
If it's never been done just resolder all of them. I'm sure vid1900 has a bulletproofing guide for bally/stern games but if he doesn't, the pinwiki one is a good choice as well.
If you suck at soldering get a junk board to practice on first. You should really remove the old solder first so there's not too much on each pin and you start fresh, but you can just resolder each pin if you're careful not to add too much solder.

Does it make sense that J4 is intimately related to this issue? I'm having a hard time interpreting the schematic. The J4 is a 12 pin connector but only 9 pins are active. So which one of those 9 is the likely culprit?

Solenoid Schematic (resized).pngSolenoid Schematic (resized).png

J4 Detail (resized).pngJ4 Detail (resized).png
#1822 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

If all solenoids including the flippers stop at the same time and you have 43V on the playfield coils, check the 5V logic loopback wire on the solenoid driver board at J3.
A bad connection on either end of that wire will cause all solenoids/coils to go dead.
[quoted image]

So just check the wire that connects 13 to 25 (dotted line?)
Should I also check J3-pin 17 at rectifier board?
J3-Pin17 on Recticfier Board (resized).pngJ3-Pin17 on Recticfier Board (resized).png

#1824 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

You should be able to check continuity with the machine off between TP1 and TP3.
If the solenoids die with the machine still on you could check DC voltage at TP3 and make sure it's still there. A lot of people connect TP1 and TP3 with a jumper wire on the back of the board (or sometimes on the front, on the test points) to eliminate the connector as an issue.
According to BigAl56 (he worked at Bally when this boardset was designed) the driver board was designed like this (separate sections) to meet some FCC requirement or something like that. Hopefully he'll refresh my memory on this. I much prefer boards that have +5v busses and ground planes to handle power distribution instead.

See my revision on the previous post. You may have responded before the update. Should I also check J3-Pin 17 at the rectifier board inside lower cabinet?

#1826 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes.
As slochar said you can also check it by testing continuity between TP1 and TP3 on the solenoid driver board as shown in the diagram I posted.
The loopback wire provides power to the logic section in the solenoid select/drive circuits.

A failure on this connection will cause the game not to boot-up. Unrelated to your issue.

OK then I know this connection is good because the game still boots up.
Thanks Slochar, Quench and Swillie. Your support has given me hope! I'll give a progress report later.

BTW. Still hoping for someone to weigh in on my question about J4. Is there a specific area on J4 that could explain this issue with the solenoids?? I ask only because the solenoids have mysteriously woken up a few times after unmating and remating this connector.
J4 Detail (resized).pngJ4 Detail (resized).png

#1832 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

You should be able to check continuity with the machine off between TP1 and TP3.
If the solenoids die with the machine still on you could check DC voltage at TP3 and make sure it's still there. A lot of people connect TP1 and TP3 with a jumper wire on the back of the board (or sometimes on the front, on the test points) to eliminate the connector as an issue.
According to BigAl56 (he worked at Bally when this boardset was designed) the driver board was designed like this (separate sections) to meet some FCC requirement or something like that. Hopefully he'll refresh my memory on this. I much prefer boards that have +5v busses and ground planes to handle power distribution instead.

OK I checked for continuity and it was good. Guess I'm back to checking the board for cracked solder on the back of the board. Any other thoughts?

4 weeks later
#1839 1 year ago

Reflowed some pins on J3. Lots of pitting on some. Back in action! Thanks for the help.

Got an issue with Player 3 LED display flaming out. Any solder joints there I should check for pitting?

#1840 1 year ago

I've got a F2K with original LED score displays. Player 3 score display flickers like the glowing embers of a campfire. If I leave the machine on for about an hour, some of the digits "heal", but not all. Anybody have any thoughts on how to repair this by means other than replacing the #3 display?

4 months later
#2019 1 year ago

Anyone have any comments about the replacement transistors now being recommended. I replaced Q18 for the solenoids and it seemed to do the trick, but after 3 months I lost the solenoids (including flippers) and the replacement seems to be OK still. However, one thing I noticed is that that replacements do have a higher resistance than the originals. Should I just swap out Q18 and Q19 as a test?

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