Quoted from DRDAVE:

Hey F2K fans!
Even after much toying around with it and adjusting the metal wall guide before the target bank:
That 50K "DROP 3 TARGETS WITH ONE SHOT" when lite is lit proves 100% elusive!!!
I've had this game for around 20 years but have yet to have those 3 drops on the right sweep with one shot from the left flipper like the one I played at Fun and Games arcade in Framingham when this game first came out. Tried adjusting the angle of where the metal wall guide sits and the best I could get it was I could get the first 2 down with one shot but then the ball would careen away and never get the 3rd.
That 50K "DROP 3 TARGETS WITH ONE SHOT" when lite is lit proves 100% elusive! Anyone have theirs adjusted so it works correctly and sweepable?

Quoted from michaelgeib:

Hi guys,
Long time pinsider but rare poster.
Have a request for a picture - I need to see the wiring from the left flipper coil ... which wires go to which of the 3 lugs ... and then which 2 wires go from the lugs to the exact spot on the flipper switch.
My left flipper started to bind so I did a flipper rebuild ... when I plugged it in to play a test game, I played for a while but suddenly the game shut down (complete power shutdown). I fried the 3A fuse on the rectifier board and I also fried the left flipper coil ... the coil must've melted the coil sleeve as I can't get the coil sleeve out of the coil. So I'm ordering a left flipper coil
Not sure what other damage I've done yet as I need to get the right fuse. Figured while I would at least figure out the wiring for the coil when it arrives. The wiring on my right flipper looks straightforward. The wiring at the 3 coil lugs for the left flipper is very confusing looking ... looks previous owner has multiple wires (at least 3) on the same lug ... so I'm confused at this point.
Sorry for the newbie like question ... I've looked in this thread and at some resto threads but there's no real clear shot of the wiring for the left flipper.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

Quoted from Bay78:

Lol sorry I meant to say where the red/white wire on the main connector that connects to the rectifier board. I'm not super good reading schematics and would love a picture or someone to have a look and let me know.

Quoted from Winger03:

Hello:
Just picked up a pretty nice Flight 2000 - the children seem to love it.
It is more or less working fine - a couple of adjustments here and there but overall we are pleased.
I have a few items I am hoping someone can help with:
- Between balls and when on attract mode the number "8 8 9" flashes on all 4 score areas. When on attract mode, when this happens the high score indicator lights up. I can't quite resolve why this is happening. I do not get a high score to ever stay up there, the "8 8 9" seems to be in its place.
- We have an Altek board but the machine was rigged for freeplay. On the coin box, where the left most coin slot is, in the space where it might say "1 token" there is a small black button that registers credits. Once credits are registered, I press the large white credit button and the game starts. The problem, however, is that the credits do not show on the score area like if it were a coin operated game. While this is merely cosmetic, I'd like to know if there is a switch setting I can use to make them show up.
- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?
- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?
Something interesting..... At one time this machine was running on 220V and was in Argentina. On the left coin slot is says "one token, one credit" in Spanish. Somehow it got there and back and into my basement.
Many thanks in advance, this is a great site!
--Jim

Quoted from swillie:

Ball jumps over the right flipper for me more than the left. I assume it is the physics of the game layout. It likes to punk you once in awhile, part of it's charm. I play 5 ball on this one, still it kicks my ass more than not.

Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Who has used the beehive playfield protector? Thoughts? What did you have to do for install?

Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Looks like some interesting changes on your playfield compared to mine. You have white acorn nuts instead of metal. Also, looks like someone cut down the plastics on the inlanes right at the flippers and added posts (or is rhat a production change?) Looks like big star posts at the outlanes too. See pics below of mine.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinball_ric:

I've been trying to resurrect an f2k and I have a short I just can't figure out. pin 8 on J1 pulls 22-24 amps as soon as the power is turned on. All of the boards are out of the game except the CPU. All of the lamp sockets have been replaced and there aren't even bulb in them yet. I'd prefer to not have to undo the wire bundle to trace it all the way back but I'm running out of options.
I realize it's a long shot but does anyone have any idea's on this?

Quoted from Jodannar:

NIce, what did you use as spacers between the new clear inland guides and the printed plastic?

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

2 questions.
Where's the volume and how do you get it on Free Play?

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

So they all do this?
Thank you.

Quoted from Reaper802:

Weebly

Quoted from clodpole:

Ahhh... ball hop, a.k.a. "jump the rail". It teaches you to avoid swatting at the ball when it's moving fast.

Quoted from clodpole:

Thanks, I'll try the fan experiment. As for the belch, this machine has always done it on startup; what changed was the actual sound of the belch. It's got a new version!

Quoted from tyking:

Looks like I’ll be starting with the wire in the pic. Do I need to change the white plastic connector piece b/c a wire already burned up in side it? Also, what’s the deal with soldering and crimping? Do you do both, or choose between the two? And also, is my pin reusable or should I put a new on? And also, any chance this wire is the reason the voice doesn’t work (J1 on rectifier board I think)
I know that’s a lot of questions for one wire! But I’m a total noobie and this would be my first time soldering.
Also , still one week in and ripped a huge game this morning for over 3mill so I’m ready to put the game down for a bit to do some repairs!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tyking:

Looks like I won’t be doing any electrical work now as my hardware store and auto parts store don’t have the connectors or terminals.
In the meantime maybe I can address the back glass issue (with y’all’s help of course!) I’ve been playing with the glass off because it is a nice CPR glass but the parts of the score displays (the line of material that runs along the lower front edge) are rubbing against it so whenever I takeoff the back glass and put it back on it rubs off some paint (See pics).
Is this a thing? Am I better off shaving off the front edge of the score display unit or adjusting the whole frame/bracket of it so it sits farther back in the cabinet farther away from the back glass? Thanks again and as always
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from clodpole:

Hi, sorry for the long gap between posts. You'll recall that my F2K would occasionally brown out the feature lights and make crackly sounds through the speaker.
I checked the rectifier board connectors and found J1 #3 (feature lamp bus) and #6 (solenoid bus) each attached by only 2 wire strands. I replaced those 2 connectors and turned the game on and got a small spark at J2 #6 plug (AC power). The crimp fitting seemed to be corroded or burnt. It took a while to get it and its residue out, but I did and replaced that connector.
Now the game seems to power up correctly. Does that make sense to you?
I'd like to look at the solder joints on the rear of the board, but the little brown fittings holding the board to the metal bracket resist removal. Do you have a method to get them out? Does anyone sell new ones in case I break one of the originals?[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tomass:

I am trying once again to get my F2K to work again. I am replacing the rectifier board and looking for a diagram of the solder points on the original board since they are not labeled. New board labels them as (e1, e2, e3, etc.)

Quoted from clodpole:

Sorry to butt in, but it appears the on/off (a.k.a. power) switch on my game is the source of my reset problems (or perhaps, "a" source). I was testing capacitors on the power board and turned the machine back on and discovered I could make the game work, or reset with a little pressure on the power switch.
Have you ever had a similar problem? Will any dpst toggle of similar size suffice?

Quoted from tyking:

Got it. Turns out it wasn’t the tool.
Now I need to combine some knowledge. I’m dive back into the schematic to see if I can confirm that the White-Red wire connects to the #1 pin on the J2 on the VSU-1000. And confirm its function, where it leads.
I will install the pin in the housing and attach the pin head strip, and test it for continuity. If it tests okay then I can move onto the next pin. This way I don’t install a whole group of pins wrong and find out at the end. Does that make sense?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tyking:

F2K Trivia (trick question): Why does the pin use the word “stand” in test mode, when it never says the word during gameplay?

Quoted from FlipperFanatic:

What does 1 beep mean.
Didn't see that in the Wiki page.

Quoted from FlipperFanatic:

I ordered the alltak bundle...playing in 3-5 business days

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would verify voltages at the power supply before installing the new boards. Don't wanna fry anything.

Quoted from tyking:

Is there a name for this? When the ball has places in the playfield where it can get “stuck”. If I try to get the ball off this spot by nudging the pin, it always ends up in a tilt. Has anyone else experienced this? How to fix? Angle the pin a bit in the lower to left?
[quoted image]

Quoted from clodpole:

I fixed that by gluing wedges on the "uphill" narrow edge of each drop target. If you look closely at the first pic, you can see the little wedge on the uphill side of each target. (I did my mod with the targets still in the game. It would've been a bit safer to take them out and do the gluing on a workbench.)
I made 'em out of hobby shop plastic stock, which I only found in square cross-section, so I filed it to wedge shape. Now, when the ball hits there it rolls back out. The wedges don't interfere with drop target function.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Jodannar:

Coil 14 (trough) doesn't fire in test mode, but tests fine. Possible bad diode? reversed wiring? I did swap this coil out to check, Yellow is to the diode band side.

This has me somewhat stumped.

Quoted from Jodannar:

Test fine, as in correct resistance, has continuity when tested in isolation, continuity in the machine.
Coil fires if grounded. Transistor on the board isn’t shorted open. Tests same as other transistors. I can’t find any broken wires up the chain.

Quoted from DanMarino:

The past 2 or 3 evenings I have been playing our Flight 2000 with my 23 year old son. He has a pretty stressful job and usually hits the basement when he gets home from work to unwind watching YouTube. However, my son really seems to be enjoying the machine now that our Flight 2000 is getting more reliable. The last several evenings we have struggled to "BLAST OFF". Typically we get the letters spelled on ball #3, but end up draining while doing the count down or before we can get the ball up into the launcher mechanism. Last night my son blasted off and got the multi-ball, only to have 2 of the balls drain down the middle almost immediately. haha. After about 6 games together I bailed out and he told me that the game is a lot of fun now that it is playing so well and we've fixed it up so much. I was talking to him to see if he was interested in getting rid of the game and upgrading to something modern and he certainly thinks Flight 2000 is a keeper.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yeah 5 ball is for wimps but it's my game lol. I also set awards for extra balls instead of free games to make the game last as long as possible.

Quoted from DanMarino:

Off the top of my head, these are the dip switch settings I can remember.
3 balls.
No extra balls awarded.
Speech and sounds on.
The right spinner value is reset after each ball.
The multiplier is reset after each ball.
I think Apollo lights are off after each game, but light up after spelling "BLAST-OFF".
However, locked balls stay in the launcher between games.

Quoted from slochar:

carry spinner, so you have a continuing ball to ball goal
reset multiplier, so you have a this ball only goal
apollo lights off, otherwise carryover game to game of locked balls unfair
Since I have the modified software in mine multiball can be slightly easier to obtain due to the skill shot spotting letters, but I also have that set to progressive mutliball launch - first one is 5-4-3-2-1 only but subsequent ones require full countdown (drops in order twice)
Also I have the center special set to payout extra balls but the outlanes ones pay out specials. There's no spot blast on the center drop anymore (just single letters with the quick shot)

Quoted from DanMarino:

How do you guys like to align your flippers? I see there are pins in the playfield below the flippers, but I'm not exactly sure what those are for. Visually, I think it looks best when the flippers align at the same downward angles as the in-lanes. Is there a flipper position that is ideal for playing the game?

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can someone snap a picture of the trough switches and diodes? I want to confirm the way the diodes are installed.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Could also use reference photos of the two switches for the ball walker assembly.

Quoted from clodpole:

How 'bout this one?:
https://imgproxy.pinside.com/kQ1Uke3Tk1YzmQomEV3UFxgDHJ2DZWW-T9ulvt7m4BI/rs:fit:1024/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2YvZDUvMTgvZmQ1MTg3MDk4ZGJjN2ZkZmE0ZTljYWI0N2ZhZWQ2NTdlYWU0ZTg3ZC5qcGc
[quoted image]

Quoted from dddanielll:

Shopping out my newly acquired Flight 2k and missing one drop target. Any chance I could buy just one from someone? Doesn’t matter which one as I’m getting decals anyhow. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Sorry not a good pic for the flipper complaint… I’ll post a better pic later. Thanks!

Yes they are resting on those pins. I think I may go your route though. Thats exactly what I was thinking to do, was to align with the inlanes. Thanks!
Also I can’t seem to hit the ball off the end of the flipper to go into the opposite inlane (can’t think of the technical term used to describe that move). I’m thinking if my flippers came up a bit I might be able to do that? Or am I thinking about that ass backwards?

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

It could just be that I'm not very good at the alley pass shot...
I'm going to keep trying/practicing before I adjust them, just to be sure. I haven't played that may games on it since I got it a couple weeks ago.
I never knew about the center post bounce... I'll have to give that a try to. Thanks!

Quoted from Crile1:

Ok, so I just picked up a flight 2000. It came with NVRAM. But it won’t hold high scores if powered down for over an hour. I went through and cleared all audits and then was doing fine. But left off overnight and now high scores are not there. Only some random numbers with spaces. Game plays like it should. Starts games even though no number present in credits. Any thoughts?

Quoted from Crile1:

Yes

Display is fine. Everything works fine until machine is powered off for more than an hour. Then displays are wonky until game start. Then works good. Then when over high score not kept. From reading other pages, looks like either NVRAM is bad or issue with board (maybe underlying corrosion). Decided to go with a new Alltek board.

Quoted from JONESDS:

My drops are definitely sitting below the level of the playfield, disappointed to read that you can't fix that by realigning the reset bar or something like that. I'll have to look into the PETG option mentioned. Thanks for posting this, we need a moderator to flag a few key posts for easy finding.

Quoted from DanMarino:

I have this same problem.

Quoted from mof:

Now I wish I had a translucent apron so I could watch carefully over 20 games until it happens again.
Any thoughts as to what is happening when it fails like this?
Guess I'll have to remove the apron, and try to make it happen again.

Quoted from clodpole:

Different subject: The metal bracket through which the flipper coil sleeve passes is attached to the flipper assembly base plate by a pair of machine screws. Some have nuts and lock washers, others don't (see photo). Further, some have the nuts on the visible side and others have them in the gap between the plywood and the base plate.
Are the nuts redundant? Necessary?[quoted image]

Quoted from JethroP:

Yes.

Yes, there are no stuck switches, and they each register.
If I boot the game from power off everything works and plays normally. It's just if there are balls in the lock, they don't release at the start of a new game (unless I power cycle).

Quoted from JethroP:

Doesn't matter. One ball or two balls locked a new game won't start. But I held down the middle trough switch at start up (with only one ball in the trough) and game starts. So it appears that when there is one ball sitting in the outhole, the center and right switch must both be closed. If my center switch trigger wire was longer, one ball would close it along with the right switch. Is this the way it's supposed to be? My triggers have been replaced. Not sure what they're supposed to look like. Picture anyone?

Quoted from DanMarino:

My speech troubles continue. Garbled, distorted, nothing works fine, then garbled again. The .100 connectors are all original. I need a specific crimp tool for .100, right? I’ve got a .156 too though. I’m thinking I need to refresh the connectors anyways.

Quoted from slochar:

This is more of preference thing than anything else. The outside shots will be easier to make if you go down to the alignment pin, at the expense of the center shots. It's how you want it to play. Try it in both positions. My usual preference is to see where the factory ended up having it first and then aligning it with the inlanes.

Quoted from clodpole:

Now, if it would just say something nice....

Quoted from sevenchord:

Been working on an F2K I picked up last Thursday before York show. Got lots of things sorted out, and have it playable, but still a lot to do. Re-pin connectors, yopps to replace the flaky sockets, needs battery mod, etc. Had no sound when I got it, think it's just the connectors need repinned - sound is working now, but the speech board was missing. Ordered the VSU-2 from Glodstone, and literally three days later it was in hand. Checked switches and jumper, plugged it in, and it was perfect! Big thanks to Glodstone for creating this board and amazingly fast shipping too!
I'm contemplating the Beehive overlay...

Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

I feel like this has come up before but I couldn't find it. Does anyone have a solution for balls getting stuck on the drop targets? When the top two targets are down the ball often gets stuck resting on the bottom drop target like a little shelf. The only way to fix it is to take the glass off and remove the ball. I could see maybe moving the rubber out a little but then I think it would hit the drop target. Anyone had success with a fix of any kind?

Quoted from splattii:

Thanks. I'll see what I can do. I see that 2 of the spikes are activated (or I guess are raised) by the solenoid. What do the other 3 do? I can't figure out how they work as they're just dangling on mine. Are they supposed to be stuck facing upwards so the 2 connected to the solenoid push the balls across them creating 3 gaps/spaces for balls? I don't see how they would move so I'm wondering if they're kept in position by the playfield itself

Quoted from vec-tor:

Iron Maiden has the same style mech located on the bottom playfield.
Whether it is the same as Fight 2000 I do not know.

Quoted from vec-tor:

Iron Maiden has the same style mech located on the bottom playfield.
Whether it is the same as Fight 2000 I do not know.