Are you painting that by hand?

I've been wanting a F2K for so long but every one I've seen within reason $$-wise has a beat up playfield. If there's ever a hardtop made for it or a run of CPR playfields, I might dive in. I just don't have the artistic talent to do major touchups or complete re-paints to take on something like that! Really looking forward to watching your progress....you should start your own F2K resto thread!

Wow....that came out really nice!!!

Bought a box of these last year from Amazon Prime and never looked back:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50455A-Assortment-Treated-Retaining/dp/B000K7GRDW/ref=sr_1_3

I love F2K's electronic sound for a free game. Just as satisfying to me as the acoustical knocker!

Beautiful looking example, Lovef2k .

I second that! I have a full set of Alltek boards (MPU, Lamp, Aux Lamp, and SDB) for keeping games running while I work on the original PCBs. Once I get the original PCBs working, back in the game they go and the Allteks go on the shelf until the next project comes in. Very helpful to have solid, known working boards to help triage stuff (like flaky connectors and other things unrelated to bad boards). It's an investment of several hundred dollars to cover all the PCBs, but I've had no regrets and so far it's helped me work thru getting 4 different Bally projects running over the last couple of years.

Yes. If you're serious, PM me.

Probably a blown transistor on the light board.

Full disclosure: I don't have a F2K yet (it's on my wish list for a future project).

I'm pretty sure it can be reset like my Stern Meteor and early Bally's. Get to the high score record via the self test on the coin door, then push the button the MPU to clear it.

You could have some floating bits/garbage in NVRAM on the MPU. I would do this: after getting thru the self test items from the coin door (after the stuck switch test, I think), "zero out" all of the remaining audit/bookkeeping settings by pushing the button on the MPU for each of the remaining selections in the coin door test routine. This will zero out everything, including score thresholds for free games/extra balls, high score, credits, coin drops per slot, etc. etc.).

After that, reboot the game and see if your 5157575 is gone. If it is, problem solved....now go back into those settings and set up the values you want for free game thresholds or other MPU settings that are done through the door and not the switch bank on the MPU (consult the F2K manual for those options).

Here are a couple of threads that might interest you:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979/page/5#post-6456244
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-the-m6800-in-a-stern-mpu100-with-an-arduino/page/5#post-6432924

There's this, too: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/opening-flight-2000-new-software-up-to-the-community

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/flight-2000-3/

Oy - I've been wanting a reasonably priced F2K project for over a year now (and yours appears to be reasonably priced)....I wish I was closer to pick up myself! Adding in shipping costs kills it for me. Plus I don't think Fastenal crosses East/West zones anymore. I'm sure it'll sell pretty quickly for you.

If the tops of the drop targets are below the surface of the playfield when the targets are fully down, a slow rolling ball can/will get stuck. I've had success in raising the targets up, when in the resting position, so that the tops of the targets are level with the playfield. You can do this by putting a shim (tape, thin PETG plastic, etc) between the bottom of the target link arm and the reset bar (or wherever it rests). On some Bally's, specifically the '84 EBD, the target height is actually adjustable (great feature).

I'm looking for a F2K project. Can you beat yours up a bit and sell it to me cheap?

Thanks for that link, @bluespin. Been looking for a good merchant for that kind of stuff since Ed shut down GPE and retired.

I've been keeping my eye on this thread....I could use a set for my Meteor:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/apron-decal-options

On one of my original Bally MPUs a few years ago (Mata Hari), the game would occasionally reset on its own. In my case, it was VR1 in the reset circuit on the MPU. It regulates 12v, and occasionally it would dip below 8v and that would trigger the reset. There was evidence of a previous repair in that area of the MPU as well as evidence of cleaned-up acid damage.

If VR1 is good, trace the 12v wire back to the connector and re-crimp. If that doesn't solve it, maybe trace it back to the SDB and poke around 12v wires and connectors there?

See if this description matches your symptom(s): https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Reset_Circuit

Flipper alignment doesn't have anything to do with bricking targets in my experience. It's more of an angle thing.....F2K is a wide body, so you want to have the flippers aligned in such a way that either flipper can hit the ball to the extreme outside of the opposite side of the playfield. On a widebody, that may mean dropping the flipper angle slightly below the line of the inlane guides. It's a personal preference, not a hard and fast rule. If you have a copy of the F2K manual, notice the picture on the front where the flippers are aligned slightly below the trajectory of the inlane guides.

The targets shouldn't brick when hit from any angle. Play with the spring tension on each target, make sure each target has no cracks or missing molds/edges (that rest on the memory coil ledges) that may have worn away after 40+ years, etc. I had similar issues with my Stern Meteor drop target bank and my ultimate solution was replacing the targets with Swink's reproductions. I went from bricking multiple targets 75% of the time to less than 2% of the time.