(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 47.
#351 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm regretting selling you that lock down bar LOL. Do you have the manual for F2K with the schematics inside? Do your feature lamps light up at all, even when first powering up? What is the game doing when you power on? Do your connectors look healthy, this includes the header pins? Do you have another game with the same SDU board that you can swap for testing? Bally and Sterns are interchangeable. Check your ground as I suggested. See if there's any voltage at SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17 and also 25 on the connector side, not the header. You may need to insert a small pin or finish nail into the connector to make contact to your meter leads. Get a replacement 5V regulator at least. LM 323 or equivalent. Any Voltages at the MPU test points? Refer to Pinwiki sect 3.21

You told me when you sold it to me that you would probably regret it. Now I feel bad. Sorry man.

#352 4 years ago

Hey everyone. I'm in the club! I have a F2K that has been in my family for almost 30 years now. I think we got it around 1990. It was already a decade old by then. My parents had bought it to go in their new house game room along with Meteor. We eventually tired of Meteor but kept F2K. My parents are starting to downsize so I bought the machine off them and it is now in my home. I will be doing a bunch of work on it.

FLIPPERS
I'm putting in a flipper kit as the left flipper is weak from a botched repair someone did years ago. I'm going with a new coil as well as the crappy repair job led to the coil cracking.

SLING
I'm replacing the right lower sling coil (which works fine but is cracked.

LIGHTING
There were about 30 lights non-functional, both GI and control. Some were burned out but on many the holder is just going bad and will need to be replaced with some that aren't almost 40 years old. I'm going to experiment with some colored and white frosted LED lights for GI. It seems like the driver board is fine so I will likely go with one of the add-on boards so I can put some colored LEDs in the control lighting.

DROP TARGETS
The countdown drop targets are dirty as hell and it might be worth just putting all new clean ones in. A few don't stay up real well but I may try the trick of putting a little felt square on the lift bar to get them up higher so they catch properly. The lift bar itself looks like it snapped clean off at some point and someone reattached it with liberal and creative use of zip ties. (See photos) Not sure what to make of that. Apparently it has held up for decades like that. Seems like JB Weld might be a better solution.

BACKGLASS
The backglass is badly flaked. About 25 years ago I noticed it was happening and covered the entire back side with clear adhesive sheets. It has completely stopped any further degradation but it still looks bad. I'll be looking at a CPR backglass.

WIRING
There's some weirdness to the wiring. See photos. On the lower connector, clearly both outside wires burned out at some point. But, they appear to no longer be used as they are now empty. There is also something wired to the board with speaker wire. I'm not sure what someone did but the game is fully functional so it worked.

PLAYFIELD.
it doesn't look too bad. Some inserts are cupped. There is wear. Spots with mylar look great. I'm not really interested in trying to clear coat the whole thing for now.

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#353 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Hey everyone. I'm in the club! I have a F2K that has been in my family for almost 30 years now. I think we got it around 1990. It was already a decade old by then. My parents had bought it to go in their new house game room along with Meteor. We eventually tired of Meteor but kept F2K. My parents are starting to downsize so I bought the machine off them and it is now in my home. I will be doing a bunch of work on it.
FLIPPERS
I'm putting in a flipper kit as the left flipper is weak from a botched repair someone did years ago. I'm going with a new coil as well as the crappy repair job led to the coil cracking.
SLING
I'm replacing the right lower sling coil (which works fine but is cracked.
LIGHTING
There were about 30 lights non-functional, both GI and control. Some were burned out but on many the holder is just going bad and will need to be replaced with some that aren't almost 40 years old. I'm going to experiment with some colored and white frosted LED lights for GI. It seems like the driver board is fine so I will likely go with one of the add-on boards so I can put some colored LEDs in the control lighting.
DROP TARGETS
The countdown drop targets are dirty as hell and it might be worth just putting all new clean ones in. A few don't stay up real well but I may try the trick of putting a little felt square on the lift bar to get them up higher so they catch properly. The lift bar itself looks like it snapped clean off at some point and someone reattached it with liberal and creative use of zip ties. (See photos) Not sure what to make of that. Apparently it has held up for decades like that. Seems like JB Weld might be a better solution.
BACKGLASS
The backglass is badly flaked. About 25 years ago I noticed it was happening and covered the entire back side with clear adhesive sheets. It has completely stopped any further degradation but it still looks bad. I'll be looking at a CPR backglass.
WIRING
There's some weirdness to the wiring. See photos. On the lower connector, clearly both outside wires burned out at some point. But, they appear to no longer be used as they are now empty. There is also something wired to the board with speaker wire. I'm not sure what someone did but the game is fully functional so it worked.
PLAYFIELD.
it doesn't look too bad. Some inserts are cupped. There is wear. Spots with mylar look great. I'm not really interested in trying to clear coat the whole thing for now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. I think I have all my tear down pics if you run into an issue and need one.

#354 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Hey everyone. I'm in the club! I have a F2K that has been in my family for almost 30 years now. I think we got it around 1990. It was already a decade old by then. My parents had bought it to go in their new house game room along with Meteor. We eventually tired of Meteor but kept F2K. My parents are starting to downsize so I bought the machine off them and it is now in my home. I will be doing a bunch of work on it.
FLIPPERS
I'm putting in a flipper kit as the left flipper is weak from a botched repair someone did years ago. I'm going with a new coil as well as the crappy repair job led to the coil cracking.
SLING
I'm replacing the right lower sling coil (which works fine but is cracked.
LIGHTING
There were about 30 lights non-functional, both GI and control. Some were burned out but on many the holder is just going bad and will need to be replaced with some that aren't almost 40 years old. I'm going to experiment with some colored and white frosted LED lights for GI. It seems like the driver board is fine so I will likely go with one of the add-on boards so I can put some colored LEDs in the control lighting.
DROP TARGETS
The countdown drop targets are dirty as hell and it might be worth just putting all new clean ones in. A few don't stay up real well but I may try the trick of putting a little felt square on the lift bar to get them up higher so they catch properly. The lift bar itself looks like it snapped clean off at some point and someone reattached it with liberal and creative use of zip ties. (See photos) Not sure what to make of that. Apparently it has held up for decades like that. Seems like JB Weld might be a better solution.
BACKGLASS
The backglass is badly flaked. About 25 years ago I noticed it was happening and covered the entire back side with clear adhesive sheets. It has completely stopped any further degradation but it still looks bad. I'll be looking at a CPR backglass.
WIRING
There's some weirdness to the wiring. See photos. On the lower connector, clearly both outside wires burned out at some point. But, they appear to no longer be used as they are now empty. There is also something wired to the board with speaker wire. I'm not sure what someone did but the game is fully functional so it worked.
PLAYFIELD.
it doesn't look too bad. Some inserts are cupped. There is wear. Spots with mylar look great. I'm not really interested in trying to clear coat the whole thing for now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

And with those wires, you can make a new connector. I would repin it with trifurcons. Also replace the header pin after you clean it up.

#355 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Looks good. I think I have all my tear down pics if you run into an issue and need one.

I just noticed you have a rectifier just sitting in the cabinet. These should be mounted with a heat sink on that board. You should consider buying a new recifier board or rebuilding that one. If you can solder it's not too bad.

#356 4 years ago

There are 2 mounted on the back side and this one has been hacked.

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#357 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

You told me when you sold it to me that you would probably regret it. Now I feel bad. Sorry man.

Don't be sorry, I'm glad you're enjoying it and that it's getting the proper use. Yeah, keep us in the loop. Especially what happens at start up. You need 12V and 5V at the MPU before it will boot. The first flicker (not flash) of the MPU is the 5V circuit doing it's thing. 5V runs the logic circuit of the MPU. So right now you may be getting GI lamps and a faint glow at the lower portion of the displays? If you do re-pin the rect connectors, only use the Trifucon on the heavy wires. I replaced all the pins on J3 once with all Trifurcon and the connector was very hard to push on without bending the rect pcb.

#358 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Hey everyone. I'm in the club! I have a F2K that has been in my family for almost 30 years now. I think we got it around 1990. It was already a decade old by then. My parents had bought it to go in their new house game room along with Meteor. We eventually tired of Meteor but kept F2K. My parents are starting to downsize so I bought the machine off them and it is now in my home. I will be doing a bunch of work on it.
FLIPPERS
I'm putting in a flipper kit as the left flipper is weak from a botched repair someone did years ago. I'm going with a new coil as well as the crappy repair job led to the coil cracking.
SLING
I'm replacing the right lower sling coil (which works fine but is cracked.
LIGHTING
There were about 30 lights non-functional, both GI and control. Some were burned out but on many the holder is just going bad and will need to be replaced with some that aren't almost 40 years old. I'm going to experiment with some colored and white frosted LED lights for GI. It seems like the driver board is fine so I will likely go with one of the add-on boards so I can put some colored LEDs in the control lighting.
DROP TARGETS
The countdown drop targets are dirty as hell and it might be worth just putting all new clean ones in. A few don't stay up real well but I may try the trick of putting a little felt square on the lift bar to get them up higher so they catch properly. The lift bar itself looks like it snapped clean off at some point and someone reattached it with liberal and creative use of zip ties. (See photos) Not sure what to make of that. Apparently it has held up for decades like that. Seems like JB Weld might be a better solution.
BACKGLASS
The backglass is badly flaked. About 25 years ago I noticed it was happening and covered the entire back side with clear adhesive sheets. It has completely stopped any further degradation but it still looks bad. I'll be looking at a CPR backglass.
WIRING
There's some weirdness to the wiring. See photos. On the lower connector, clearly both outside wires burned out at some point. But, they appear to no longer be used as they are now empty. There is also something wired to the board with speaker wire. I'm not sure what someone did but the game is fully functional so it worked.
PLAYFIELD.
it doesn't look too bad. Some inserts are cupped. There is wear. Spots with mylar look great. I'm not really interested in trying to clear coat the whole thing for now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on the F2K addition, I hope your folks gave you a break on the price LOL?

The first thing I would do is re-pin the connectors at the rectifier board TA-100. I'm not sure how much you know about pinball so I will try to explain what each part is called so don't think I'm trying to be smart, I just want to help as much as I can from my experience with F2K, also my first pin.

So the white plastic part that holds the connector pins are known as housings. For most 70's and 80's games they used Molex brand pins and housings. So J3 connector at the rect board is a 20 position molex housing with .156 in spacing. J1 is 8 position and so on. The header pins on the board itself are also .156 in spacing. The smaller headers and connectors such as the MPU and lamp driver are .100 in spacing. This is how you will identify which ones to buy.

The header pins on your rect board look crusty so I def replace those if you plan to keep that board for a while. Personally I would swap it out for a repro board from NVRAM.weebly. He makes the best replacement.

The bridge that was soldered to the front of yours (speaker wire) runs the displays and sends 185V to the SDU driver board so be careful not to touch any of the wires running from it when the game is powered up. You can leave it the way it is if the score displays are working but you should attach a heat sink to it. You can buy one that can bolt right onto it. Just use heatsink compound between the metal surfaces. https://www.sager.com/624-45abt3-424382.html?utm_source=googlemerchant&utm_medium=click&utm_campaign=sager-brand&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsmIrCQPrS_ramMXLLE90hVh1vyVVNWT5HNqvazoD4-TRV5wU6g6u6RoCP4kQAvD_BwE for example.

As far as missing wire, not all spaces of the connectors are always used. There will be blanks and a space known as the "key" where the will be a filler plug in a specific space in each housing to prevent the connector from being installed on the wrong pins. On your J1 rect board connector I see pin number 8 was badly burned. This is common because the GI lamps pull alot of current. That's where the white wire should be but it looks like somebody moved the white wire to pin 5 which is fine since it is tied in with the GI supply (bus)

As far as lamps not lighting up. You are right about the lamp sockets. They are old and the insulator on the bottom dry rots and causes looseness. Replacement can be found at Marco Specialties. Going with LED in the GI will definitely reduce the strain on the rect board and it's connectors.

If you want to do LED on the switched lamps, you need to buy a Alltek lamp/LED driver board. Stern games with speech have special instructions for the Alltek so you need to read the instructions thoroughly. There's a jumper harness that goes from the speech board (VU-100) to the lamp driver board, I believe to J4. 2 wires need to be cut to avoid switched illum power from back feeding to the speech board, but you find that in the Alltek manual.

As far as the drop targets falling down. It could be that they are just worn out. They have a small lip on the front that catches the metal tab of the memory coil release mech. They might be slipping off. Also sometimes the metal tabs have to be tweaked. Since this game has been HOU for so long, I think the target bank is still in good shape and shouldn't need any modifications. Also the lift bar under it is adjustable by loosening the allen screws.

Also you should probably replace the balls to save the playfield. Most home pin owners don't know that the balls should be replaced when shopped out. The balls become pitted over time from use and corrosion.

I have the CPR glass and they did a nice job on it so don't hesitate to buy one, I don't think will rerun it any time soon, since I think this is the 3rd run since 2007.

#359 4 years ago

I finished my Flight 2000 playfield restoration. I am offering it first to those people who contacted me earlier saying they were interested. I sent them info this morning. If anyone else is interested, let me know. I'll accept offers.

Parts - For Trade
New (selling multiple) - “This playfield was sanded down and repainted. This is not a CPR or a digitally printed playfield. It is hand painted. As such, it is not going to be a perfect match in every way to...”
2019-06-19
Cañon City, CO
Trade
Archived after: 20 days
Viewed: 299 times
Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

DSCN2108 (resized).JPGDSCN2108 (resized).JPG
#360 4 years ago

Wow....that came out really nice!!!

#362 4 years ago

Can the Siegecraft adaptor kit be used on F2K to remove flicker from control lighting or do you have to replace the who board with a new one from Alltek?

#363 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Can the Siegecraft adaptor kit be used on F2K to remove flicker from control lighting or do you have to replace the who board with a new one from Alltek?

Siegecraft works great. I used it in the F2K I'm working on for a buddy.

#364 4 years ago

Thank you for the helpful information everyone. My new rubbers came in the mail last night and I started to put them on. Unfortunately one was missing from the kit and another was the wrong size. Does anyone know the correct size for the one to the left of the blast off lane? The one behind drop target "1". The kit came with a 1-1/4 inch but that is too large.

#365 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Thank you for the helpful information everyone. My new rubbers came in the mail last night and I started to put them on. Unfortunately one was missing from the kit and another was the wrong size. Does anyone know the correct size for the one to the left of the blast off lane? The one behind drop target "1". The kit came with a 1-1/4 inch but that is too large.

The chart in the manual doesn't show the rubber behind the #1 drop target. Sometimes the rubber size is stamped on the playfield in the white area under the plastics where the rubber goes. To me it looks like a 3/4 or a 1 inch should work there. If you replace the drop targets, you should go a 1/4 in shorter on the rubbers behind the target 2-3 and 4-5. The reason for this is because the newer targets tend to "brick" meaning the target will not drop when hit straight on from a hard hit ball. It's a mystery why this happens, I believe that the newer plastics are softer and tend to bend when hit hard. Using a smaller size rubber will stretch the rubber and become thinner and therefore create more space behind the targets.

Do yourself a favor and buy some extra rubbers of various sizes to keep on hand. Keep them stored air tight in a ziploc bag. Here's a cross reference chart from Pinball Resource. The last column shows Chicago Coin/ old Stern which is the one you want. http://www.pbresource.com/Rubberref.html

You can buy these from Pinball Resource, he sells good quality, Happ or Wico brand. If you never ordered from them before, you will need to send a personal check for payment before he ships your order. He doesn't to Paypal or credit. After the first order, once you establish good credit with them, all orders will be shipped before you send a check and then you mail him a check once order is received. I know! He's old school!

#366 4 years ago

Just put Titan rings on it and be done.

I created this kit not very long ago:

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/1805

I really like the way the purple came out.

#367 4 years ago

I agree, that purple really 'pops'!! That is amazing to me, I hope that goes into a machine instead of on the wall.

#368 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm regretting selling you that lock down bar LOL. Do you have the manual for F2K with the schematics inside? Do your feature lamps light up at all, even when first powering up? What is the game doing when you power on? Do your connectors look healthy, this includes the header pins? Do you have another game with the same SDU board that you can swap for testing? Bally and Sterns are interchangeable. Check your ground as I suggested. See if there's any voltage at SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17 and also 25 on the connector side, not the header. You may need to insert a small pin or finish nail into the connector to make contact to your meter leads. Get a replacement 5V regulator at least. LM 323 or equivalent. Any Voltages at the MPU test points? Refer to Pinwiki sect 3.21

Ok I have gone through Clays guide on this. I do have a downloaded manual with schematics, but they are very confusing compared to the system 11s I usually work on.
At this point I only have GI and the displays seem to backlight. I have all the proper voltages at the test points on the rectifier board. I have high voltage on the solenoid driver but that is all. No 5 or 12v on the sol driver or MPU. I do not see a way to test the power after the test points on the rectifier board. I am not sure how to test the header pins on the output of that board but I assume that is where I should start. Can I test those pins while disconnected? And what do I use for the ground? My board looks rebuilt but no ground test point on it. Can I ground right to the transformer body? Thanks to anyone who has some direction.

#369 4 years ago

Backstory is it was doing resets during gameplay at a nursing home where I was lending it. I unplugged it, but when I picked it up, someone had plugged it back in and now I have nothing but GI.

#370 4 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Just put Titan rings on it and be done.
I created this kit not very long ago:
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/1805
I really like the way the purple came out.

Would you mind sharing a photo of this?

#371 4 years ago
Quoted from wmanningiv:

Would you mind sharing a photo of this?

Follow the link to Titan. I uploaded a bunch under the kit I created.

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#372 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Backstory is it was doing resets during gameplay at a nursing home where I was lending it. I unplugged it, but when I picked it up, someone had plugged it back in and now I have nothing but GI.

If the game was resetting, that's a sign of the 5v regulator going out. LM323, order one and replace it and see what happens.

#373 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If the game was resetting, that's a sign of the 5v regulator going out. LM323, order one and replace it and see what happens.

Ok, will do. I swapped in a silverball mania ps with no change, although I am not 100% sure about that ps either. I can't seem to get votage readings on the header pins of the rectifier board, but they all look new and clean. I replaced at least 1 connector there before. It seems that power is lost between the test points and the header pins or I am not testing correctly.

#374 4 years ago

Here are pics of that. Someone clearly replaced this. The wires are all labed with odd labels such as "far right of 7, or E12"

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#375 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If the game was resetting, that's a sign of the 5v regulator going out. LM323, order one and replace it and see what happens.

Before replacing that regulator I'd add the jumper on the back of the driver to tie the 5v points together instead of relying on the old contacts in the harness to do so. Also check to see if the large cap for the 5v supply was replaced.

#376 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Here are pics of that. Someone clearly replaced this. The wires are all labed with odd labels such as "far right of 7, or E12"[quoted image][quoted image]

Just build a new one. It was an easy build.

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#377 4 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Classic Stern legs should be closer to hammertone silver color.

Yes. Non-ribbed. Slight hammer tone grey like the coin door. The inside corner at the bottom where the leveler screws in should be rounded off.

#378 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Ok, will do. I swapped in a silverball mania ps with no change, although I am not 100% sure about that ps either. I can't seem to get votage readings on the header pins of the rectifier board, but they all look new and clean. I replaced at least 1 connector there before. It seems that power is lost between the test points and the header pins or I am not testing correctly.

Put the black lead on the transformer or cab braid ground. See if the board has burn traces on the back side.

#379 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Put the black lead on the transformer or cab braid ground. See if the board has burn traces on the back side.

Ok, I am finally getting somewhere. I definately have a bad connector on the sol driver board. I can get some life when I play with it and the header has been reflowed already. When I push on it the 12v is present and I get a solid led on the mpu. I need to order the .100 size though. I am not sure if any of the caps have been replaced so I am gonna order a ps rebuild as well. I will report back when I get all that resolved.

#380 4 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Before replacing that regulator I'd add the jumper on the back of the driver to tie the 5v points together instead of relying on the old contacts in the harness to do so. Also check to see if the large cap for the 5v supply was replaced.

Good call. I have been waiting for someone else to chime in. I forgot about the jumper trick.

#381 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Ok I have gone through Clays guide on this. I do have a downloaded manual with schematics, but they are very confusing compared to the system 11s I usually work on.
At this point I only have GI and the displays seem to backlight. I have all the proper voltages at the test points on the rectifier board. I have high voltage on the solenoid driver but that is all. No 5 or 12v on the sol driver or MPU. I do not see a way to test the power after the test points on the rectifier board. I am not sure how to test the header pins on the output of that board but I assume that is where I should start. Can I test those pins while disconnected? And what do I use for the ground? My board looks rebuilt but no ground test point on it. Can I ground right to the transformer body? Thanks to anyone who has some direction.

Now that I'm home, I can try to answer some of your questions. I have been studying the SDU schematic a little more cus now I'm curious as well. So it looks like 12V unregulated comes from the rect board J3 pin 8 so it will be A2-J308. A2 identifies rect board. I looked at your pics again. I noticed they used 2 10 position connector housings for J3 instead of a single 20 pos which is fine. I verified by the schematic that they installed correctly. Since this is a .156 connector, it is large enough to insert the meter probe in there to make sure you have 12V at that point. A2-J308 has a thinner orange wire. There should be a green ground wire coming from under the transformer L bracket and going to the rect board mounting plate. you should be able to use that as ground point to take voltage readings. We are measuring DC for this. Only Gi is AC. Since you said that you got 12V at the SDU by fiddling with the J3 connector, it would be safe to say that the connector or header pin is the weak point. You also said that it looks like somebody reflowed the header? This could be were the issue lies. Pull the SDU out and get a magnifying glass if you have one. If there is a solder bridge between pins 10 and 11, this will cause 12V to short to the transformer ground. Pins 11 and 12 should be soldered as one behind the J3 header. Pin 12 is coming from A2-J308 (12V) and splits off to the MPU 12V supply via pin 11. Just make sure that pin 10 SDU J3 is not touching the other pins with solder. Take something sharp and score a line between them if necessary. Also with the J3 connector removed, find something small and metal that will fit in the connector slot so you can take a reading of pin 12, orange wire. You should get the same result as from A2-J308.

So what I gather from the SDU 5 volt section of the schematic, this 12V (TP5) goes to the regulator LM-323 and comes out as 5V regulated (TP1) and then to SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17. These run the MPU, lamp driver and score displays.

So if you have 12V at TP5 and below 4.8V at TP1, then the regulator and/or C23 are bad.

As far as rect board ground test point, there is none. Ground enters the rect at J210 from the transformer.

#382 4 years ago

Got the left flipper all repaired on my F2K. Changed all GI to LEDs. I was going to get warm to match the tone of the incandescents but somehow I ordered cool white. I decided to give them a try. I like how they look. F2K is a blue-toned space-themed game so it looks good with a cold look.

I cleaned the playfield and waxed. Cleaned every switch (they were pretty dirty). Put on all new rubbers. Cleared the memory of some junk high score data. Still more to do but it is playing now. Lots of fun.

Still to do...
1. Install new CPR backglass (already ordered)
2. Install Siegecraft light board to get rid of LED flicker on control lighting.
3. Install color-matched LED insert lighting
4. Troubleshoot a few switches.
5. Build new rectifier board and repin scorched connectors.
6. Replace cracked right sling coil
7. Rebuild right flipper to keep it happy.
8. Touch up playfield paint

IMG_20190624_122011.jpgIMG_20190624_122011.jpg
#383 4 years ago

Nice progress! It’s looking good!

#384 4 years ago

What color is this 10,000 BONUS supposed to be? It is above all the other bonuses which are clearly blue but it looks like a dirty purple or something. The photo below actually makes it look a lot more colorful than it is in real life. Is mine discolored? What color do other people have. I'm thinking a colored LED could breathe some life into it.

2019-06-24 14.57.04.jpg2019-06-24 14.57.04.jpg
#385 4 years ago

I used color matched LEDs under the inserts and used the purple in that spot

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1-flux.htm

These have been running well with no strobe or flicker.

#386 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Now that I'm home, I can try to answer some of your questions. I have been studying the SDU schematic a little more cus now I'm curious as well. So it looks like 12V unregulated comes from the rect board J3 pin 8 so it will be A2-J308. A2 identifies rect board. I looked at your pics again. I noticed they used 2 10 position connector housings for J3 instead of a single 20 pos which is fine. I verified by the schematic that they installed correctly. Since this is a .156 connector, it is large enough to insert the meter probe in there to make sure you have 12V at that point. A2-J308 has a thinner orange wire. There should be a green ground wire coming from under the transformer L bracket and going to the rect board mounting plate. you should be able to use that as ground point to take voltage readings. We are measuring DC for this. Only Gi is AC. Since you said that you got 12V at the SDU by fiddling with the J3 connector, it would be safe to say that the connector or header pin is the weak point. You also said that it looks like somebody reflowed the header? This could be were the issue lies. Pull the SDU out and get a magnifying glass if you have one. If there is a solder bridge between pins 10 and 11, this will cause 12V to short to the transformer ground. Pins 11 and 12 should be soldered as one behind the J3 header. Pin 12 is coming from A2-J308 (12V) and splits off to the MPU 12V supply via pin 11. Just make sure that pin 10 SDU J3 is not touching the other pins with solder. Take something sharp and score a line between them if necessary. Also with the J3 connector removed, find something small and metal that will fit in the connector slot so you can take a reading of pin 12, orange wire. You should get the same result as from A2-J308.
So what I gather from the SDU 5 volt section of the schematic, this 12V (TP5) goes to the regulator LM-323 and comes out as 5V regulated (TP1) and then to SDU J3 pins 13 thru 17. These run the MPU, lamp driver and score displays.
So if you have 12V at TP5 and below 4.8V at TP1, then the regulator and/or C23 are bad.
As far as rect board ground test point, there is none. Ground enters the rect at J210 from the transformer.

Thanks for taking the time to look through this. As soon as I repin those connectors I assume I will be replacing those caps and possibly that lm-323. I think the header is good, I reflowed it and tested for any shorts. I was just stumped since I couldn't track that 12v

#387 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

What color is this 10,000 BONUS supposed to be? It is above all the other bonuses which are clearly blue but it looks like a dirty purple or something. The photo below actually makes it look a lot more colorful than it is in real life. Is mine discolored? What color do other people have. I'm thinking a colored LED could breathe some life into it.[quoted image]

Mine looks just like yours as pictured.

#388 4 years ago

I had some more time to work on the machine this afternoon. There was some weird behavior going on. It sounded a little similar to problems others have posted about further up the thread but different too. I thought I would pass along my story in case it helps someone else.

The behavior I was seeing was that when I would get my first ball into the ball stepper area the game would say stage one was go an then kick out a ball. A few seconds later it would repeat that message and kick out another ball. It would then step the first ball through the launch stages and I'd suddenly have all three balls in play even though I was not in multiball. If any of those balls drained I would more often than not instantly get a shoot again and a ball would be kicked out. Sometimes during that extended pseudo-multiball madness I would get blastoff and the countdown completed even though there were zero balls on the stepper. It would play all the sounds and go through the launch sequence and start an a multiball when it had not been earned. It was completely bizarre. I figured switches were to blame.

I went I to switch test mode and started to track down all the problematic switches. Two of the drop targets, 4 and 5 needed to be adjusted as they were always closed but I don't think that had much to do with the problem (other than making multiball easier.)

Testing the three switches in the trough was a bit tricky but I did determine that the first one was not tripping correctly. this is the service bulletin issue written about much earlier up thread. I bent the wire a bit to make better contact with the balls and suddenly the game was working fine.

If the problem comes back I will persue the addition of a post as described in the service bulletin (though I haven't seen an actual copy of it.)

It certainly is weird how the trough switches are what causes problems with the ball walker bit of course everything is connected through the game's logic and if things aren't as expected then weirdness ensues.

#389 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

I had some more time to work on the machine this afternoon. There was some weird behavior going on. It sounded a little similar to problems others have posted about further up the thread but different too. I thought I would pass along my story in case it helps someone else.
The behavior I was seeing was that when I would get my first ball into the ball stepper area the game would say stage one was go an then kick out a ball. A few seconds later it would repeat that message and kick out another ball. It would then step the first ball through the launch stages and I'd suddenly have all three balls in play even though I was not in multiball. If any of those balls drained I would more often than not instantly get a shoot again and a ball would be kicked out. Sometimes during that extended pseudo-multiball madness I would get blastoff and the countdown completed even though there were zero balls on the stepper. It would play all the sounds and go through the launch sequence and start an a multiball when it had not been earned. It was completely bizarre. I figured switches were to blame.
I went I to switch test mode and started to track down all the problematic switches. Two of the drop targets, 4 and 5 needed to be adjusted as they were always closed but I don't think that had much to do with the problem (other than making multiball easier.)
Testing the three switches in the trough was a bit tricky but I did determine that the first one was not tripping correctly. this is the service bulletin issue written about much earlier up thread. I bent the wire a bit to make better contact with the balls and suddenly the game was working fine.
If the problem comes back I will persue the addition of a post as described in the service bulletin (though I haven't seen an actual copy of it.)
It certainly is weird how the trough switches are what causes problems with the ball walker bit of course everything is connected through the game's logic and if things aren't as expected then weirdness ensues.

I call that faultyball, lol. Once in awhile my game does one step of the ball walker, and you end up eventually with 2 balls in play and the pressure is on to re-lock one before a ball falls out and goes to next ball in play or worse, game over if on the last ball.

I often suspected or think i thought it happened when hitting drops 4 or 5...interesting. I did gave to adjust my first trough switch when i first got the game.

#390 4 years ago
Quoted from swillie:

Mine looks just like yours as pictured.

I have seen 2 variations of the 10K bonus insert. The faded purple and solid blue, the same as the smaller blue. CPR's F2K PF has the blue 10K insert, so I guess their sample had that variation. It may be possible that they ran out of one or the other during mfg. My current game has the faded purple one, I think I put white lamp under mine.

#391 4 years ago

Ok, thanks for the info. Helpful as always. Mine is a weak purple so I'm going to go with a purple LED and see how it looks. I will be sure to report back!

#392 4 years ago

Trying to figure out why these .100 terminals are shaped like this. They are not consistent either and I don't think they will fit into the housing. Anyone have any suggestions?

20190627_115509 (resized).jpg20190627_115509 (resized).jpg
#394 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Those are wrong. Where did you get them?

Ebay.

#395 4 years ago

Not like what was pictured either.

Screenshot_20190627-125203_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190627-125203_eBay (resized).jpg
#396 4 years ago

I’ve seen terminals come in a long strip where you break one off when you need it. Looks kinda like that but broken apart leaving the connecting metal on them. Can you break it off clean to leave just the pin?

#397 4 years ago

The seller contacted me and said he was sending the right ones, so I assume it is a different item all together. I don't see a way to snap them off either. Seems like a solid plate. Maybe a mfg mistake?

#398 4 years ago

I guess I could use cutters and cut them but it is not what I ordered.

#399 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I guess I could use cutters and cut them but it is not what I ordered.

I was taking a closer look at these. Judging by the irregularity of the cut pieces it may be possible to remove them? The back side of the pin has the locking tab, maybe you can slip them apart without cutting? Even if they were originally shipped as a roll, I can't see why someone would separate them.

#400 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Trying to figure out why these .100 terminals are shaped like this. They are not consistent either and I don't think they will fit into the housing. Anyone have any suggestions?

Those were "reel" packaged terminals that someone cut to single pieces. You can cut them to about the right width, but it's a PITA to do.
Reel packaged terminals are cheaper because they're supplied in bulk and are meant for automatic crimping machines that also cut them from the reel.

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