Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

3 years ago



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  • 238 posts
  • 49 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 34 Pinsiders

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There are 238 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 32 days ago

Weirdbissue has appeared in my maccine tonight. When putting a 2nd ball into the lock it will continually reset both sets of drops and then eventually just end the ball and count off bonus.

After doing this, starting a game with 2 balls in the stepper, a ball won’t be kicked out from the trough. I’m suspecting maybe a trough switch issue, but that doesn’t explain the drop target resets. Seems like it’s triggering a nee ball cycle but not incrmenting the ball counter then giving up and ending the ball.

Also got replacement drop targets to fit, but they aren’t tombstone style and have the extra flange on the sides at the top. Have seen machines with both styles

#202 32 days ago

Definitely trough switch issue or adjustment Kicked 2 balls into shooter lane on a ball

#203 30 days ago

Just bringing up a Flight 2000 that has been sitting for many years. Did the repairs and uogrades to the driver board, went through the lamp driver, and have both sound and Speech. At the moment I'm trying to resolve several switches that won't register. They are switches 4 and 5 for the spinners, and switches 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16.

Since this machine had previous work I'm looking all that first.

#204 29 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Just bringing up a Flight 2000 that has been sitting for many years. Did the repairs and uogrades to the driver board, went through the lamp driver, and have both sound and Speech. At the moment I'm trying to resolve several switches that won't register. They are switches 4 and 5 for the spinners, and switches 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16.
Since this machine had previous work I'm looking all that first.

both spinners feed off of the same yellow/red power wire. On the blueprint Stern refers to the switches by name. Not numbers. (L)outlane and (R)outlane are also powered by the same Y-R wire. Tell me which switches are not working and maybe I can offer some ideas. The switch power wires are: W-R, BRN-W, W-BLU, W-Y, Y-R.

They are all located on connector A4-J2, pins 1,2,3,4,and 5. The return wires are on the same connector.

If it was me, with that many switches acting up, I would roll the dice and replace the pins and see what happens. At least pull the pins and look at them. They could have been replaced with shoddy workmanship.

#205 28 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

both spinners feed off of the same yellow/red power wire. On the blueprint Stern refers to the switches by name. Not numbers. (L)outlane and (R)outlane are also powered by the same Y-R wire. Tell me which switches are not working and maybe I can offer some ideas. The switch power wires are: W-R, BRN-W, W-BLU, W-Y, Y-R.
They are all located on connector A4-J2, pins 1,2,3,4,and 5. The return wires are on the same connector.
If it was me, with that many switches acting up, I would roll the dice and replace the pins and see what happens. At least pull the pins and look at them. They could have been replaced with shoddy workmanship.

Your note got me to go back and look at the connectors at the boards again. Found one sprung pin that broke when I pulled it out and after replacing that I have most of the switches working now. One center drop and the upper right sling switches still aren't but I will check those switches again and clean/adjust them.

It seems that the balls don't register properly when they drain so I have to look at that next. Once that is done it should be playable.

About half the GI is out and I noticed that one wire was cut for the coil going to the #3 drop. I had replaced a couple bad transistors on the driver. If the coil checks out i'll install a new diode and re-connect.

#206 28 days ago

All GI power is from the red wire on the J1 connector at rectifier board. Red wire splices into the bare stranded wire soldered the the bulb bases. If half the GI is out you probably have a broken strand wire.

#207 28 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

All GI power is from the red wire on the J1 connector at rectifier board. Red wire splices into the bare stranded wire soldered the the bulb bases. If half the GI is out you probably have a broken strand wire.

It looks like someone may have replaced a lot a GI sockets in the past and changed some of those wires. I'll start going over all of it to see if one broke loose of if they wired it wrong. Tomorrows project!

#208 28 days ago

Hi Guys....

I've a technical Problem.
After I'd change my playfield with a new one (Remake Playfield) the soundboard is " Out of order "
The Speech board runs correct, but the soundboard is doing nothing.
After I played the first game the Soundboard swooshed only for a few minutes.
Before the Restauration all sounds are going correctly....

What can I do ?

Best regards from Germany.....

Thomas

#209 28 days ago
Quoted from Pittfallass:

Hi Guys....
I've a technical Problem.
After I'd change my playfield with a new one (Remake Playfield) the soundboard is " Out of order "
The Speech board runs correct, but the soundboard is doing nothing.
After I played the first game the Soundboard swooshed only for a few minutes.
Before the Restauration all sounds are going correctly....
What can I do ?
Best regards from Germany.....
Thomas

Check the cables and board connections thoroughly, then check them again. It is most likely your problem.

Start cheap and replace all the capacitors.

I replaced that ancient ribbon cable with a remake sold on a pinside store.

Here's some links to SB-300 troubleshooting threads that helped me as I stepped through the board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-bally-s-t-stern-sb-300-and-vsu-100
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundsb300.html

viel Glück!

1 week later
#210 16 days ago

Hello:

Just picked up a pretty nice Flight 2000 - the children seem to love it.

It is more or less working fine - a couple of adjustments here and there but overall we are pleased.

I have a few items I am hoping someone can help with:

- Between balls and when on attract mode the number "8 8 9" flashes on all 4 score areas. When on attract mode, when this happens the high score indicator lights up. I can't quite resolve why this is happening. I do not get a high score to ever stay up there, the "8 8 9" seems to be in its place.

- We have an Altek board but the machine was rigged for freeplay. On the coin box, where the left most coin slot is, in the space where it might say "1 token" there is a small black button that registers credits. Once credits are registered, I press the large white credit button and the game starts. The problem, however, is that the credits do not show on the score area like if it were a coin operated game. While this is merely cosmetic, I'd like to know if there is a switch setting I can use to make them show up.

- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?

- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?

Something interesting..... At one time this machine was running on 220V and was in Argentina. On the left coin slot is says "one token, one credit" in Spanish. Somehow it got there and back and into my basement.

Many thanks in advance, this is a great site!

--Jim

#211 16 days ago

If you clear and reset the audit settings with the front panel it should fix the numbers displayed during the attract mode. I ran into something similar after installing an NVRAM module.

#212 16 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Hello:
Just picked up a pretty nice Flight 2000 - the children seem to love it.
It is more or less working fine - a couple of adjustments here and there but overall we are pleased.
I have a few items I am hoping someone can help with:
- Between balls and when on attract mode the number "8 8 9" flashes on all 4 score areas. When on attract mode, when this happens the high score indicator lights up. I can't quite resolve why this is happening. I do not get a high score to ever stay up there, the "8 8 9" seems to be in its place.
- We have an Altek board but the machine was rigged for freeplay. On the coin box, where the left most coin slot is, in the space where it might say "1 token" there is a small black button that registers credits. Once credits are registered, I press the large white credit button and the game starts. The problem, however, is that the credits do not show on the score area like if it were a coin operated game. While this is merely cosmetic, I'd like to know if there is a switch setting I can use to make them show up.
- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?
- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?
Something interesting..... At one time this machine was running on 220V and was in Argentina. On the left coin slot is says "one token, one credit" in Spanish. Somehow it got there and back and into my basement.
Many thanks in advance, this is a great site!
--Jim

Running an Altek MPU ? the manual there says Stern machines don't have a freeplay setting ... http://www.allteksystems.com/pdfs/Complete%20Ver%20L.3%20MANUAL.pdf
Also says for game that DO support freeplay that the credit display has to be turned off and to check original dipswitch settings
https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf the switch assignment shows #20 to toggle on/off the credit window

I don't have my F2k near me , if you feel the need to replace the cord snap a quick pic of the area where it connects. it will accept a US grounded cord

I do get a couple ball hops over a flipper every now and again , right above the heel of the flippers,the low plastic there should be a wire rail under-there on each side ( I forget where the service bulletin that mentions that ) ... keeps the inlane plastics from breaking.

#213 15 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you clear and reset the audit settings with the front panel it should fix the numbers displayed during the attract mode. I ran into something similar after installing an NVRAM module.

Thanks for the help. I am really new to this, can you go into a little more detail about what I should try?

#214 15 days ago
Quoted from chas10e:

Running an Altek MPU ? the manual there says Stern machines don't have a freeplay setting ... http://www.allteksystems.com/pdfs/Complete%20Ver%20L.3%20MANUAL.pdf
Also says for game that DO support freeplay that the credit display has to be turned off and to check original dipswitch settings
https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf the switch assignment shows #20 to toggle on/off the credit window
I don't have my F2k near me , if you feel the need to replace the cord snap a quick pic of the area where it connects. it will accept a US grounded cord
I do get a couple ball hops over a flipper every now and again , right above the heel of the flippers,the low plastic there should be a wire rail under-there on each side ( I forget where the service bulletin that mentions that ) ... keeps the inlane plastics from breaking.

Yes an Altek MPU. There was some rewiring done inside the coinbox to add the additional button to rack up credits.

I'll get a pic up shortly, thanks!

#215 14 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Thanks for the help. I am really new to this, can you go into a little more detail about what I should try?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

On p.6 of the manual’s PDF is the Bookkeeping info. Set your high score thresholds and clear all the other data.

The two momentary switches on the back side of the coin door do this. They’re shown on the diagram on p.4. “Self-test” cycles the function and “memory clear” clears the data.

It’s a shame there’s a button hamfisted in. There are 3 score thresholds. You can set them to add a replay when achieved. For free play I just made my first threshold 10k.

#216 14 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?

I have this problem with all of my Sterns. It does not happen often. But it does happen. You can try raising the flipper band to the top of the flipper but I don't think this will help you. Short of building all sorts of Rube Goldberg contraptions try to live with it.

Quoted from Winger03:

- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?

To properly place a new power cord, you will need to remove your back box. Since you have the back box off, go ahead and remove your play field. This will give you easy access to the power cord and vari-resistor it is soldered to. Yes, it is a simple unsolder-resolder job. But you must pay attention to how you wire it up.

Vid's Guide about wiring will advise you on the proper way to hook up a power cord.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

#217 13 days ago

Thanks to you all for the help. I'll look at the power cord this week - deal with the ball jumping as being sort of normal - and have fixed the 8 8 9 mess on the displays (and now it retains high score correctly).

#218 13 days ago

Ball jumps over the right flipper for me more than the left. I assume it is the physics of the game layout. It likes to punk you once in awhile, part of it's charm. I play 5 ball on this one, still it kicks my ass more than not.

#219 13 days ago
Quoted from swillie:

Ball jumps over the right flipper for me more than the left. I assume it is the physics of the game layout. It likes to punk you once in awhile, part of it's charm. I play 5 ball on this one, still it kicks my ass more than not.

sometimes it's WAY more charming than others .... mine jumps the left flipper more but not really to often to be a real annoyance. I have a good laugh anytime any game does that to me. one time playing Bally Supersonic the ball jumped the flipper, hit the wire rail below the flipper & hopped back over the flipper again to keep on playing. wished THAT happened more often !!!!

#220 12 days ago

My flippers are set to the pins and I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

#221 12 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

Mine are set to the pins.

#222 12 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

I have mine set parallel to the inlanes. I have my slopes at 6.5%.

#223 12 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

Yeah mine are resting on the pins, I haven't tried parallel with the lanes. I don't know the pitch of the machine, not super aggressive steep but not letting the ball noodle-around either.

#224 9 days ago

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.

Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.

I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.

Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.

I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.

Thanks in advance!

--Jim

#225 9 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.
Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.
I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.
Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

If you're not too sure on the electrical side, please be careful. I recommend replacing the entire power cord. It's a no-no to have a spliced cord.

Check the first switch on the walker for good spacing and clean contacts. I wouldn't recommend lubricant. I had an issue with mine where it leaned a little far to one side and rubbed the wood from time to time. I corrected this with some small mechanical adjustment.

The tilt ball in mine is smaller than the game ball. I don't know off-hand what size it is or if mine is the original setup. I'll put a ruler on it later and get you some better info. Without looking at it, i'd say it's about 1".

#226 9 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.
Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.
I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.
Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

I would highly recommend just replacing the power cord. You can buy any extension cord and cutoff the female end to make a new one easily. If you don’t know where to solder it, I can post a step by step process with pictures.

#227 9 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.

I would try the powdered graphite route. Graphite can get messy. So go lightly.

But I think I would check the switches and make sure they are clean and adjusted correctly.

Here is a clip from an old Williams pub about using graphite.

Screen Shot 2019-01-11 at 8.54.09 AM (resized).png

But you might consider using a synthetic lubricant.

Screen Shot 2019-01-11 at 8.56.07 AM (resized).png

#228 9 days ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

Here’s a pic of the incline tilt bearing (left). A standard pinball is on the right. All I had on hand was a tape measure. I’m not sure where my calipers are right now.

A5687AA2-8F54-4F8F-9860-09EC7A16C816 (resized).jpeg
#229 9 days ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

Here’s a pic of the incline tilt bearing (left). A standard pinball is on the right. All I had on hand was a tape measure. I’m not sure where my calipers are right now.[quoted image]

It is 15/16". PBR stocks them.

#230 9 days ago

Seriously, you all are the best, thanks!

#231 8 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is 15/16". PBR stocks them.

They also stock the correct power cord...

#232 6 days ago

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?

20190114_130516~2 (resized).jpg
#233 6 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

I bet you’re correct, that thing looks smoked

#234 6 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

You can replace that individual "Trifurcon pin" http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#connect

the "transformer schematic" only says J1-1 is "Red" but connects to other general illumination returns https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

#235 6 days ago

I had GI out as well. Went to LED's in the backbox to reduce the current and heat. Also added a couple Fire LEDs under the asteroid and under the rocket flames in the backglass. The effect is really cool.

#236 6 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

Pin 1 red wire is the GI power wire.

Pin 8 white wire is GI return wire.

Pin 3 blue wire is a feature wire power wire.

Pin 7 blue wire is a 2nd feature wire power wire.

Pin 6 is a blue wire with white strip that powers the flippers. You will pick up the other end at the 1 amp fuse holder under the play field.

#237 5 days ago

This is mine...

DSCF6303 (resized).JPG
#238 5 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector?

You need to procure some trifurorcon connectors. You want part number 08-52-0113 for 18-20 AWG guage wire.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81

You need some proper crimp pliers.

You want the "B" crimp type. part number 1026-CT (Don't even think about using the crimpers you get at the auto parts store).

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=80

You need a new connector. part number 09-50-8081

Connector .156 Plug 8 pin.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

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