(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by cottonm4
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There are 766 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 16.
#201 1 year ago

Weirdbissue has appeared in my maccine tonight. When putting a 2nd ball into the lock it will continually reset both sets of drops and then eventually just end the ball and count off bonus.

After doing this, starting a game with 2 balls in the stepper, a ball won’t be kicked out from the trough. I’m suspecting maybe a trough switch issue, but that doesn’t explain the drop target resets. Seems like it’s triggering a nee ball cycle but not incrmenting the ball counter then giving up and ending the ball.

Also got replacement drop targets to fit, but they aren’t tombstone style and have the extra flange on the sides at the top. Have seen machines with both styles

#202 1 year ago

Definitely trough switch issue or adjustment Kicked 2 balls into shooter lane on a ball

#203 1 year ago

Just bringing up a Flight 2000 that has been sitting for many years. Did the repairs and uogrades to the driver board, went through the lamp driver, and have both sound and Speech. At the moment I'm trying to resolve several switches that won't register. They are switches 4 and 5 for the spinners, and switches 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16.

Since this machine had previous work I'm looking all that first.

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Just bringing up a Flight 2000 that has been sitting for many years. Did the repairs and uogrades to the driver board, went through the lamp driver, and have both sound and Speech. At the moment I'm trying to resolve several switches that won't register. They are switches 4 and 5 for the spinners, and switches 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16.
Since this machine had previous work I'm looking all that first.

both spinners feed off of the same yellow/red power wire. On the blueprint Stern refers to the switches by name. Not numbers. (L)outlane and (R)outlane are also powered by the same Y-R wire. Tell me which switches are not working and maybe I can offer some ideas. The switch power wires are: W-R, BRN-W, W-BLU, W-Y, Y-R.

They are all located on connector A4-J2, pins 1,2,3,4,and 5. The return wires are on the same connector.

If it was me, with that many switches acting up, I would roll the dice and replace the pins and see what happens. At least pull the pins and look at them. They could have been replaced with shoddy workmanship.

#205 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

both spinners feed off of the same yellow/red power wire. On the blueprint Stern refers to the switches by name. Not numbers. (L)outlane and (R)outlane are also powered by the same Y-R wire. Tell me which switches are not working and maybe I can offer some ideas. The switch power wires are: W-R, BRN-W, W-BLU, W-Y, Y-R.
They are all located on connector A4-J2, pins 1,2,3,4,and 5. The return wires are on the same connector.
If it was me, with that many switches acting up, I would roll the dice and replace the pins and see what happens. At least pull the pins and look at them. They could have been replaced with shoddy workmanship.

Your note got me to go back and look at the connectors at the boards again. Found one sprung pin that broke when I pulled it out and after replacing that I have most of the switches working now. One center drop and the upper right sling switches still aren't but I will check those switches again and clean/adjust them.

It seems that the balls don't register properly when they drain so I have to look at that next. Once that is done it should be playable.

About half the GI is out and I noticed that one wire was cut for the coil going to the #3 drop. I had replaced a couple bad transistors on the driver. If the coil checks out i'll install a new diode and re-connect.

#206 1 year ago

All GI power is from the red wire on the J1 connector at rectifier board. Red wire splices into the bare stranded wire soldered the the bulb bases. If half the GI is out you probably have a broken strand wire.

#207 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

All GI power is from the red wire on the J1 connector at rectifier board. Red wire splices into the bare stranded wire soldered the the bulb bases. If half the GI is out you probably have a broken strand wire.

It looks like someone may have replaced a lot a GI sockets in the past and changed some of those wires. I'll start going over all of it to see if one broke loose of if they wired it wrong. Tomorrows project!

#208 1 year ago

Hi Guys....

I've a technical Problem.
After I'd change my playfield with a new one (Remake Playfield) the soundboard is " Out of order "
The Speech board runs correct, but the soundboard is doing nothing.
After I played the first game the Soundboard swooshed only for a few minutes.
Before the Restauration all sounds are going correctly....

What can I do ?

Best regards from Germany.....

Thomas

#209 1 year ago
Quoted from Pittfallass:

Hi Guys....
I've a technical Problem.
After I'd change my playfield with a new one (Remake Playfield) the soundboard is " Out of order "
The Speech board runs correct, but the soundboard is doing nothing.
After I played the first game the Soundboard swooshed only for a few minutes.
Before the Restauration all sounds are going correctly....
What can I do ?
Best regards from Germany.....
Thomas

Check the cables and board connections thoroughly, then check them again. It is most likely your problem.

Start cheap and replace all the capacitors.

I replaced that ancient ribbon cable with a remake sold on a pinside store.

Here's some links to SB-300 troubleshooting threads that helped me as I stepped through the board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-bally-s-t-stern-sb-300-and-vsu-100
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundsb300.html

viel Glück!

1 week later
#210 1 year ago

Hello:

Just picked up a pretty nice Flight 2000 - the children seem to love it.

It is more or less working fine - a couple of adjustments here and there but overall we are pleased.

I have a few items I am hoping someone can help with:

- Between balls and when on attract mode the number "8 8 9" flashes on all 4 score areas. When on attract mode, when this happens the high score indicator lights up. I can't quite resolve why this is happening. I do not get a high score to ever stay up there, the "8 8 9" seems to be in its place.

- We have an Altek board but the machine was rigged for freeplay. On the coin box, where the left most coin slot is, in the space where it might say "1 token" there is a small black button that registers credits. Once credits are registered, I press the large white credit button and the game starts. The problem, however, is that the credits do not show on the score area like if it were a coin operated game. While this is merely cosmetic, I'd like to know if there is a switch setting I can use to make them show up.

- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?

- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?

Something interesting..... At one time this machine was running on 220V and was in Argentina. On the left coin slot is says "one token, one credit" in Spanish. Somehow it got there and back and into my basement.

Many thanks in advance, this is a great site!

--Jim

#211 1 year ago

If you clear and reset the audit settings with the front panel it should fix the numbers displayed during the attract mode. I ran into something similar after installing an NVRAM module.

#212 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Hello:
Just picked up a pretty nice Flight 2000 - the children seem to love it.
It is more or less working fine - a couple of adjustments here and there but overall we are pleased.
I have a few items I am hoping someone can help with:
- Between balls and when on attract mode the number "8 8 9" flashes on all 4 score areas. When on attract mode, when this happens the high score indicator lights up. I can't quite resolve why this is happening. I do not get a high score to ever stay up there, the "8 8 9" seems to be in its place.
- We have an Altek board but the machine was rigged for freeplay. On the coin box, where the left most coin slot is, in the space where it might say "1 token" there is a small black button that registers credits. Once credits are registered, I press the large white credit button and the game starts. The problem, however, is that the credits do not show on the score area like if it were a coin operated game. While this is merely cosmetic, I'd like to know if there is a switch setting I can use to make them show up.
- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?
- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?
Something interesting..... At one time this machine was running on 220V and was in Argentina. On the left coin slot is says "one token, one credit" in Spanish. Somehow it got there and back and into my basement.
Many thanks in advance, this is a great site!
--Jim

Running an Altek MPU ? the manual there says Stern machines don't have a freeplay setting ... http://www.allteksystems.com/pdfs/Complete%20Ver%20L.3%20MANUAL.pdf
Also says for game that DO support freeplay that the credit display has to be turned off and to check original dipswitch settings
https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf the switch assignment shows #20 to toggle on/off the credit window

I don't have my F2k near me , if you feel the need to replace the cord snap a quick pic of the area where it connects. it will accept a US grounded cord

I do get a couple ball hops over a flipper every now and again , right above the heel of the flippers,the low plastic there should be a wire rail under-there on each side ( I forget where the service bulletin that mentions that ) ... keeps the inlane plastics from breaking.

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you clear and reset the audit settings with the front panel it should fix the numbers displayed during the attract mode. I ran into something similar after installing an NVRAM module.

Thanks for the help. I am really new to this, can you go into a little more detail about what I should try?

#214 1 year ago
Quoted from chas10e:

Running an Altek MPU ? the manual there says Stern machines don't have a freeplay setting ... http://www.allteksystems.com/pdfs/Complete%20Ver%20L.3%20MANUAL.pdf
Also says for game that DO support freeplay that the credit display has to be turned off and to check original dipswitch settings
https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf the switch assignment shows #20 to toggle on/off the credit window
I don't have my F2k near me , if you feel the need to replace the cord snap a quick pic of the area where it connects. it will accept a US grounded cord
I do get a couple ball hops over a flipper every now and again , right above the heel of the flippers,the low plastic there should be a wire rail under-there on each side ( I forget where the service bulletin that mentions that ) ... keeps the inlane plastics from breaking.

Yes an Altek MPU. There was some rewiring done inside the coinbox to add the additional button to rack up credits.

I'll get a pic up shortly, thanks!

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Thanks for the help. I am really new to this, can you go into a little more detail about what I should try?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

On p.6 of the manual’s PDF is the Bookkeeping info. Set your high score thresholds and clear all the other data.

The two momentary switches on the back side of the coin door do this. They’re shown on the diagram on p.4. “Self-test” cycles the function and “memory clear” clears the data.

It’s a shame there’s a button hamfisted in. There are 3 score thresholds. You can set them to add a replay when achieved. For free play I just made my first threshold 10k.

#216 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

- I seem to have a high (at least to me) instance of the ball jumping over the flipper. The incline of the game seems about right - is this common? Could it have something to do with where the rubber-band is on the flipper?

I have this problem with all of my Sterns. It does not happen often. But it does happen. You can try raising the flipper band to the top of the flipper but I don't think this will help you. Short of building all sorts of Rube Goldberg contraptions try to live with it.

Quoted from Winger03:

- I'd like to replace the power cord, the current one is not in great shape. Is it as simple as unsoldering the old one and installing a new one in reverse order, or is there something I need to be wary of?

To properly place a new power cord, you will need to remove your back box. Since you have the back box off, go ahead and remove your play field. This will give you easy access to the power cord and vari-resistor it is soldered to. Yes, it is a simple unsolder-resolder job. But you must pay attention to how you wire it up.

Vid's Guide about wiring will advise you on the proper way to hook up a power cord.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

#217 1 year ago

Thanks to you all for the help. I'll look at the power cord this week - deal with the ball jumping as being sort of normal - and have fixed the 8 8 9 mess on the displays (and now it retains high score correctly).

#218 1 year ago

Ball jumps over the right flipper for me more than the left. I assume it is the physics of the game layout. It likes to punk you once in awhile, part of it's charm. I play 5 ball on this one, still it kicks my ass more than not.

#219 1 year ago
Quoted from swillie:

Ball jumps over the right flipper for me more than the left. I assume it is the physics of the game layout. It likes to punk you once in awhile, part of it's charm. I play 5 ball on this one, still it kicks my ass more than not.

sometimes it's WAY more charming than others .... mine jumps the left flipper more but not really to often to be a real annoyance. I have a good laugh anytime any game does that to me. one time playing Bally Supersonic the ball jumped the flipper, hit the wire rail below the flipper & hopped back over the flipper again to keep on playing. wished THAT happened more often !!!!

#220 1 year ago

My flippers are set to the pins and I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

#221 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

Mine are set to the pins.

#222 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

I have mine set parallel to the inlanes. I have my slopes at 6.5%.

#223 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’ve never seen the ball jump the flipper. Do you have the flippers set to the pins, or parallel to the inlane?

Yeah mine are resting on the pins, I haven't tried parallel with the lanes. I don't know the pitch of the machine, not super aggressive steep but not letting the ball noodle-around either.

#224 1 year ago

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.

Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.

I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.

Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.

I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.

Thanks in advance!

--Jim

#225 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.
Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.
I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.
Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

If you're not too sure on the electrical side, please be careful. I recommend replacing the entire power cord. It's a no-no to have a spliced cord.

Check the first switch on the walker for good spacing and clean contacts. I wouldn't recommend lubricant. I had an issue with mine where it leaned a little far to one side and rubbed the wood from time to time. I corrected this with some small mechanical adjustment.

The tilt ball in mine is smaller than the game ball. I don't know off-hand what size it is or if mine is the original setup. I'll put a ruler on it later and get you some better info. Without looking at it, i'd say it's about 1".

#226 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Tremendous help from all, many thanks.
Rather than replace the entire power cord, I will put a new end on it. The current cord is actually 2 different ones spliced together - I guess to make it longer at some point. I'll undo the splice and inspect to make certain the first part is in good condition and replace with one of the ends recommended by Vid in his guide mentioned upthread.
I am having a ball-walker issue. Occasionally when shooting the first ball in, it does not advance to the correct place so that when the second ball is shot it kind of sits on top of the first ball. Sometimes that is corrected by shooting a 3rd ball up there . Ball 3 hits ball 2, bounces back t the playfield and then the ball-walker will indexes putting ball 1 and ball 2 in the right positions. Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.
Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

I would highly recommend just replacing the power cord. You can buy any extension cord and cutoff the female end to make a new one easily. If you don’t know where to solder it, I can post a step by step process with pictures.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Is it recommended to lubricate the moving parts of the ball-walker with 3-in-1 or powdered graphite? Electrically I think it is working, but mechanically is does not quite do what it needs to do from time to time.

I would try the powdered graphite route. Graphite can get messy. So go lightly.

But I think I would check the switches and make sure they are clean and adjusted correctly.

Here is a clip from an old Williams pub about using graphite.

Screen Shot 2019-01-11 at 8.54.09 AM (resized).png

But you might consider using a synthetic lubricant.

Screen Shot 2019-01-11 at 8.56.07 AM (resized).png

#228 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Also, In trying to make the machine a little more "complete" there is no ball in the tilt mechanism track inside the cabinet. Is it just a regular game ball and I can stick an extra one there? I am assuming a 1 1/16", 80 gram ball is the correct one.
I still owe some photographs and will get to that this weekend.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim

Here’s a pic of the incline tilt bearing (left). A standard pinball is on the right. All I had on hand was a tape measure. I’m not sure where my calipers are right now.

A5687AA2-8F54-4F8F-9860-09EC7A16C816 (resized).jpeg
#229 1 year ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

Here’s a pic of the incline tilt bearing (left). A standard pinball is on the right. All I had on hand was a tape measure. I’m not sure where my calipers are right now.[quoted image]

It is 15/16". PBR stocks them.

#230 1 year ago

Seriously, you all are the best, thanks!

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is 15/16". PBR stocks them.

They also stock the correct power cord...

#232 1 year ago

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?

20190114_130516~2 (resized).jpg
#233 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

I bet you’re correct, that thing looks smoked

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

You can replace that individual "Trifurcon pin" http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#connect

the "transformer schematic" only says J1-1 is "Red" but connects to other general illumination returns https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

#235 1 year ago

I had GI out as well. Went to LED's in the backbox to reduce the current and heat. Also added a couple Fire LEDs under the asteroid and under the rocket flames in the backglass. The effect is really cool.

#236 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I had a buddy recently pick up a Flight 2000 and for the most part everything seems to be working. The biggest issue I see so far is there is no GI or backbox lighting. I'm thinking this is because J1 as show on the attached photo is extra toasty. What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector? Also am I on the correct track that J1 feeds the GI and backbox lighting directly?
[quoted image]

Pin 1 red wire is the GI power wire.

Pin 8 white wire is GI return wire.

Pin 3 blue wire is a feature wire power wire.

Pin 7 blue wire is a 2nd feature wire power wire.

Pin 6 is a blue wire with white strip that powers the flippers. You will pick up the other end at the 1 amp fuse holder under the play field.

#237 1 year ago

This is mine...

DSCF6303 (resized).JPG
#238 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

What is my best option for a replacement 8 pin connector?

You need to procure some trifurorcon connectors. You want part number 08-52-0113 for 18-20 AWG guage wire.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81

You need some proper crimp pliers.

You want the "B" crimp type. part number 1026-CT (Don't even think about using the crimpers you get at the auto parts store).

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=80

You need a new connector. part number 09-50-8081

Connector .156 Plug 8 pin.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

1 week later
#239 1 year ago

I'm finally back with the promised photos. I'll have a few posts in a row.....

This is the inside where the power cord connects. Looks like a pretty straightforward match the colors with a replacement. Is that red disc piece something that needs replacing or does it look new? I think I read that a 16 gauge extension cord with one end cut off should do the trick.

Power (resized).jpg
#240 1 year ago

Here is how I get credits to add. This button is in the coin box where the left coin chute is. Typically a price would be here (1 token 1 credit etc). Pressing this button increases the number of credits, then you would press the regular white credit button on the right side of the coin box to start the game. The second picture is the backside of that same button. I'd like to replace it (the front part is a little broken) with the same or similar button and the fabricate something to cover around the button so it looks a little nicer. Does this button look like anything special, or just hunt around a bit to find one similar?

Credit Button (resized).jpgBackside of credit button (resized).jpg
#241 1 year ago

Overall shot of the machine. This weekend I took off the legs one at a time and scrubbed them down pretty well. They look 100% better - also scrubbed the cabinet and looks much nicer as well.

I'd like to clean the playfield - is Novus #2 the recommended item to use? I'd like to clean but do as little damage as possible.

Lastly (for now at least) - occasionally, when there are no balls captured the first ball shot up there does not get a "shoot" again but advanced to the next player as if the ball drained. Seems to only happen (and it has only happened 2 or 3 times) early on after powering up the machine. Any thoughts on that one?

Machine (resized).jpg
#242 1 year ago

Novus 2 is a polish not really a cleaner. If you want to shine the playfield up some go ahead and hit it with Novus 2 but keep in mind that it is abrasive. I always use Naphtha after Novus 2 or when I want to do a light cleaning. Then two coats of quality wax.

#243 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

I'm finally back with the promised photos. I'll have a few posts in a row.....
This is the inside where the power cord connects. Looks like a pretty straightforward match the colors with a replacement. Is that red disc piece something that needs replacing or does it look new? I think I read that a 16 gauge extension cord with one end cut off should do the trick.
[quoted image]

You can use an extension cord. Heavy gauge. Just make sure you do not hook it up backwards with regards to the wide blade and narrow blade on the plug in.

The red item is part of the varistor. If it works good and lasts a long time, leave it alone.

Nice back glass.

#244 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Here is how I get credits to add. This button is in the coin box where the left coin chute is. Typically a price would be here (1 token 1 credit etc). Pressing this button increases the number of credits, then you would press the regular white credit button on the right side of the coin box to start the game. The second picture is the backside of that same button. I'd like to replace it (the front part is a little broken) with the same or similar button and the fabricate something to cover around the button so it looks a little nicer. Does this button look like anything special, or just hunt around a bit to find one similar?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Its just a button. If it is working just use it for a little while as you get used to and get to know your pin. You could mount the button somewhere inside out of sight and open your coin door to add credits. You can set the button to add 15 credits at one time. Do that 3 times and your have 40 credits to play before you have to open the door again. A lot of people got wire-cut happy on a home machines. If you wiring is still there you could just keep a few quarters inside the coin door and add credits with a coin.

Also, there are some coin guards at the bottom of the coin chute. The screws are not easily assessable but you can remove the guard from the chute next to the door lock and manually push the coin wire to add credits.

You should consider buying a factory manual for your F2K. They are out there.

#245 1 year ago
Quoted from Winger03:

I'm finally back with the promised photos. I'll have a few posts in a row.....
This is the inside where the power cord connects. Looks like a pretty straightforward match the colors with a replacement. Is that red disc piece something that needs replacing or does it look new? I think I read that a 16 gauge extension cord with one end cut off should do the trick.
[quoted image]

You got it. The varistor looks good. If it is bad it would be burned up.

A6040100-A32C-4A2F-8FAA-62727812E218 (resized).jpeg
#246 1 year ago

Picked up a connector kit from Marco's and got that toasty 8 pin replaced. I was also going to replace the headed until I flipped the board over.

It's always amazing what can be hiding on the other side of a board. This thing has been so hot that the traces have almost lifted. I feared that it I tried to replace the headed the trace would crumble. This board will be upgraded to a Rottendog which should last a lifetime.

The GI is back on at least. I'm still missing the lower lights in the backbox but the uppers are back. Perhaps a grounding issue on that lighting daisy chain?

20190125_095403 (resized).jpg20190125_111154 (resized).jpg

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Picked up a connector kit from Marco's and got that toasty 8 pin replaced. I was also going to replace the headed until I flipped the board over.
It's always amazing what can be hiding on the other side of a board. This thing has been so hot that the traces have almost lifted. I feared that it I tried to replace the headed the trace would crumble. This board will be upgraded to a Rottendog which should last a lifetime.
The GI is back on at least. I'm still missing the lower lights in the backbox but the uppers are back. Perhaps a grounding issue on that lighting dasy chain?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I got a Rottendog board for one of my pins 3 years ago. It has worked well. But next time I am going with weebly DIY unit for $32.00

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1055-nvramweeblycom/01123--new-bally-stern-rectifier-board-as-2518-18-ta-100

#248 1 year ago

I Recently bought one of Andrew’s DIY kits and was very pleased. The silkscreened labellimg was very well done, simple to assemble and in general well constructed.

#249 1 year ago

Didn't know the DIY kit was a thing. I'll probably go that route. Thanks for the heads up.

Any ideas on why the lower section of Backbox lights are still out? I'm not seeing anything obvious.

#250 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Didn't know the DIY kit was a thing. I'll probably go that route. Thanks for the heads up.
Any ideas on why the lower section of Backbox lights are still out? I'm not seeing anything obvious.

I believe all of the back box lights are coming in from one connection. You most likely have a bad connection somewhere on the bare wire.

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