I'll measure mine. I have a couple of extra sheets.

I had to get a new sheet made a few years ago. I kept the sticker that came printed on it with the info. I can grab that info off it tomorrow.

My glass isn't factory but fits perfectly, a smidge under 24 5/8 wide and 45 11/16 long. My glass has no side to side wiggle room, so anything 1/16 to 1/8 less in width than this should be fine.

Thank you.

Watch out for the length dimension of the glass. One guy had the playfield glass too long
and cutup the back neck to get the glass to fit the cabinet.

Just removed mine and measured it:

45 1/2" X 24 1/2"

No slop, but I notice the Marco glass is 1/4" longer. Since that's under the lockdown bar, it has room for variance:

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Yes but not that much. The lockdown bar itself has a lip to keep the glass from sliding down. Your pic looks good as glass just passes the lip of the receiver which acts as a support for the front edge of the glass.

Just ordered the glass from local shop. Tempered clear 24-1/2" x 45-5/8" x 3/16 with seamed edges. $97 including tax.

Any of you guys with extra sheets going to York hit me up if you want to unload one!

I was shocked at how much a new sheet of glass dressed up each of my machines. Good luck, and enjoy your F2K!

Not a terrible price for the way things are today.

Yeah. Was about twice what I paid a year ago, but that was for a standard size pin. This happens to be wide body. I shopped this glass and $97 was the lowest of 5 bids. High price I got was $250. Whoa. The other prices were in the mid to low $100's.

Please till us how the glass fits.
I will be keeping my fingers crossed that all goes well.

Took me longer to remember to do this. Busy week, but here’s the receipt I had on my repro glass.

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Picked up the glass today. Fits just right. Another 1/8" longer and to may have been too long.

Good news.

Hi guys, got my first pin and it's a Flight 2000. The cabinet is in rough shape. I have this doubt about the type of wood used in the backbox. Could it be MDF? It looks like MDF around the backbox, the bezel, not sure if it's called bezel.

Another thing is that the pinball plays mostly fine except for this issue that appears about 30 minutes after turned on.
The game starts to score by itself, in 1000 points increments. This only happens when the machine is warm.
When this problem shows up I put the machine in Test Mode and it shows switch 17 closed, which is the "B" letter. Also the top right drop target shows as if it were switch 17 too. I've cleaned and adjusted the switch with no luck.
Could this be a switch matrix issue?

Upon looking at the matrix both of those switches are next to each other in the same row.
I've replace both diodes with 1N4007, but the problem is still there.
I'm trying to learn how the switch matrix works.

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Congrats! F2K was also my first pin. It has changed my life forever because I'm doing full restores now since 2009.

Yes the backbox trim is def MDF board. I have replaced mine with solid Poplar.

In switch test, did you remove all balls and reset the drop targets?

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Often there's a switch capacitor on stand ups... Cut it off. See if that helps. If it does replace it but it's not strictly needed. It's purpose is to lengthen short switch hits.

I was wondering if there was a cap there, couldn't remember.

I love the art of this machine. Thanks for the photos, they are very helpful, I didn't know that MDF was that old, I thought it was a more modern material. Do you have any tips on removing the trim without damaging the backbox? Is it glued and nailed?
I did the switch test without any balls and the drop targets in the reset position, this problem appears only when the machine is warm, otherwise it shows "O" on the switch test.

Ok, gonna cut those caps and report back, thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, screwed and glued. The nails are ring shanked. IIRC, it didn't take much effort to remove them. If you are saving the top piece, be careful not to split it. Mine had 3 nails at the top of the side trim going into the top trim. I wouldn't worry as much about the glue. It was used sparingly and most likely dried and brittle by now.

The sides were not cheap to make since it is a tapered cut. I had them done at a woodworking shop. If you go this route, make the lower ends just a tad longer and adjust as necessary. You want the side trim to be flush with bottom of head.

Got my project playing....but it has a bit of a problem. For instance, if there are 2 balls locked in the captive ball walker at the end of a game, they do not kickoff and drain at the start of a new game using credits. A new game will start, but the outhole will not kick out the lone ball in the trough into the shooter lane.

If I power cycle the game, when it boots with balls in the captive ball walker, they will eject and drain and a ball will then be kicked into the shooter lane.

Any ideas what's wrong?

Does multi ball work properly? At the end of a game, any balls locked will not eject so that’s proper behavior. Sounds like you may need to fiddle with a trough switch. Have you tried putting the game in switch test and seeing if a switch is stuck or not registering?

Yes.

Yes, there are no stuck switches, and they each register.

If I boot the game from power off everything works and plays normally. It's just if there are balls in the lock, they don't release at the start of a new game (unless I power cycle).

That’s proper behavior. Locked balls do not release upon start of a new game, only upon “power cycling”. I’m no expert but it sounds like a ball lock switch or trough switch is out of adjustment if the 3rd ball doesn’t kick to the shooter.

Great, gonna try disassemble it. The top part is prett damaged, so it'll be replaced too.

I removed the cap in one of the stand up targets as slochar sugested and the machine is working properly now, so thanks sir.

Yeah, the balls stay in the maze after each game but they clear out on reboot. Your issue seems to be why it won't kickout a ball after starting a new game.

So normal behavior except....doesn't kick out a ball starting a new game. It kicks out a ball if I press the empty #2 ball switch.

I've tested each of the 3 ball switches in the trough. They each show open when there is no ball there, and each show closed with there is a ball there. The switches are in the correct order from left to right (35, 34, 33).

Once I trigger the empty switch for #2 ball (switch 34), a ball is kicked out and all play resumes normally.

So maybe the second stage switch isn't closing when the second ball enters the maze. So the game only sees 1 ball in the maze.

There's only one switch at the entrance to the maze. The lock switches are virtual and what a mess of programming and logic that is. If the ball entering isn't moved down properly the game stops working correctly.

I only have one switch in the maze, and it is working. Am I missing a switch? I don't see where it would go.

My ball does move down correctly. When the second ball enters the maze, they both ratchet down. And multiball is working. It does seem like a programming issue.....or could I have a corrupt game prom?

I doubt your rom is bad in this very specific way. The virtual lock registers happen to be at the start of the 5101 RAM chips and nothing else really uses that section... Maybe swap u8 and u13.

The trough switches are finicky as well did you test with balls or fingers.

So true...One needs to use all three balls to test the micro switches, of the outhole layout.

I read somewhere that the 5101 chips had to be identical, and a specific speed, but I forget where I read that. I'll try switching them tomorrow and report back. I do recall they ARE NOT identical and have no idea their specs.

I have tested the trough switches with balls and fingers both. They all 3 work are are correctly adjusted (sensing the balls in the correct positions).

Anyone sell good 5101 chips these days? I do see there is a NVRAM for this board. Anyone know if it works?

Yes nvram works. That's what's in all my mpu200 boards although I have switched most of my games to the weebly... Which also has nvram.

I totally forgot about that option. I have a weebly on the shelf. I'll try it out tomorrow as well. Thanks for mentioning that!

I swapped U8 and U13. Didn't change the problem.
I swapped out the MPU with the Weebly board and didn't change the problem either.

So there must be a problem in the wiring/playfield? I don't get it. The switches test ok, and I have verified the trough switches 33, 34, and 35 are in the correct placement.

The virtual switches get combined with the physical switches. The game is likely losing track of one of the balls in the maze area.

Try starting a game and getting no balls locked. Does the next game work? Try this also with locking one ball, then two, then cycle through the 2 without getting multiball and see where it stops working.

The switches like I said are very finicky, you might want to adjust them 'out' a little more in case a ball sitting there isn't pressing it in enough. They could also be worn out.

I think I figured out something. When there is only one ball in the trough, it is supposed to close 2 switches? Can someone show me a picture of the switches in the trough?

Doesn't matter. One ball or two balls locked a new game won't start. But I held down the middle trough switch at start up (with only one ball in the trough) and game starts. So it appears that when there is one ball sitting in the outhole, the center and right switch must both be closed. If my center switch trigger wire was longer, one ball would close it along with the right switch. Is this the way it's supposed to be? My triggers have been replaced. Not sure what they're supposed to look like. Picture anyone?

Are you sure switches are in the correct order? What happens when you only close the middle switch out of curiosity?

No it's always one ball per switch.

Yes, according to the manual. See post #1979

during switch test it shows #34.

I snapped some pics awhile ago ... hope they help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-club-members-and-fans-welcome/page/3#post-4422641

Still looking for help. Started a separate topic here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-wont-start-with-balls-locked-in-the-maze#post-7183175

I'm still curious, what happens if you lock 2 balls in the maze and only activate the middle trough switch, will it start a game?

Hi guys, an issue appeared today in my F2k.
The fuse under the playfield blows when multi ball is activated, this happens when the third ball is gonna get launched, it just sits in the last kicker in the maze.
fuse is 1.25A slow blow.
This only happens in multiball, in test mode there's no problem with the solenoids.
Any ideas?

I have a F2K backglass in poor condition. Free to anyone who wants it.

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