Quoted from Completist:I checked my spare pf on the weekend and that ball walker mech was intact. I’ll shoot you a pm.
Yay!
(Topic ID: 124724)
Linked Games
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
Topic Gallery
1 week later
Oakland, ME
Could someone snap some pics of wires on the switches in the ball trough? mine got all bent out of shape and I have been trying to get them squared away, but the left most one is all wrong and the game keeps spitting out 2 balls.
I had it close, but it still does it 1 out of 10 ball ejections into the shooter lane. The main cuprite is when the ball gets kicked out the others, rock back for a sec, just enough to move the wires and do a switch change.
Thanks in advance
Tricky adjustment on that first switch wire...you want it vertical enough that it stays 'triggered' despite the balls rolling back a bit when one is kicked into plunger lane(ball rolls forward again, retriggering switch so game thinks you plunged and went sdtm without scoring any points, and gives you back another ball). However wire too straight up and a ball coming in behind flippers at a left to right angle can slip in front of the first switch. There is a modification recently pointed out where a screw or post is added at the outhole entrance on the right. This forces the ball to come in outside that first switch wire so you can set it more vertical thus increasing wire travel when ball rolls over it and it will stay triggered. Not sure this made sense...here is a topic with picture of screw at outhole...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-trough-on-flight-2000#post-4344900
Quick rules question: What is the payoff of being in multi-ball? Is there a shot to collect a score, or is it 2x/3x or something else, or nothing at all?
mof
Just a ton more points from 3balls at once hitting things. No bonus per se for achieving multiball itself.
I found this -- any agreement here?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/purpose-to-multiball-in-flight-2000
Multiball is HUGE scoring. The left spinner is worth insane points. I want to say 7k per spin. It might even be for the rest of the game. Not sure there. Also the spot target in between the 1-5 drops spots blast letters so it helps work towards next multiball.
The only times I’ve ever broken 1m points has been when I make multiball
I find myself just trying to keep multiball alive and target the right spinner and getting the balls to the top LAST lanes. Once blastoff is spelled than go for the left spinner to lock balls. Also after multiball the center standup lights up the special, and alternates on off when slings are hit. It can be set to award extra ball, or 100,000. I have mine on extra ball, I figure I can beat that 100,000 with a good extra ball everytime but it is a crap shoot. A good multiball can set you up for another one quickly.
1 month later
Multiple NOS playfields at auction on Ebay ending in less than an hour, including a Flight 2000. I'm not the seller.
Stern:
Cheetah
Flight 2000
Meteor
Ali
Seawitch
Bally:
Six Million Dollar Man
Nitro Ground Shaker
Quoted from bluespin:Multiple NOS playfields at auction on Ebay ending in less than an hour, including a Flight 2000. I'm not the seller.
Stern:
Cheetah
Flight 2000
Meteor
Ali
Seawitch
Bally:
Six Million Dollar Man
Nitro Ground Shaker
ebay.com link
Of the ones I was looking at, none of them sold. His reserve prices are $700.00. The bids he had were $500.00. They are in Argentina and the shipping cost will make you cry.
2 weeks later
Quoted from chubtoad13:Just brought a F2K home. On the first game the kid gets multiball. Needless to say he’s hooked now
Wow! That’s impressive. I’d say in about 500 games I’ve put on the one I have, I’ve gotten multiball like 3 times. Haha
Does anyone have any tips on making the 3 bank sweepable? It doesn’t seem possible on my game.
It looks like others have had this problem, but never reported back.
I wonder if it’s aftermarket drops that are the issue(I’m not sure if mine are or aren’t), or alignment, or maybe even pitch of the game causing the ball to careen off the top target.
Any help would be appreciated
Quoted from chubtoad13:Does anyone have any tips on making the 3 bank sweepable? It doesn’t seem possible on my game.
It looks like others have had this problem, but never reported back.
I wonder if it’s aftermarket drops that are the issue(I’m not sure if mine are or aren’t), or alignment, or maybe even pitch of the game causing the ball to careen off the top target.
Any help would be appreciated
I too cannot sweep the right drops. I have not really made any effort to realize a solution. I wonder if changing to a looser or tighter rubber ring behind the drops might make them sweepable...
Laval, QC
I have swept them on mine. I haven't replaced the drops there so they may be the originals
I snapped a couple pics & notice the top screw slot for the rail is adjustable and on mine the rail finishes square with the back of the drop targets.
Also I have the flippers resting on the pins as opposed to being parallel with the in-lane guides.
This is just how my game happened to be set up when I got it. I don't always sweep the drops but occasionally it does happen, most times I only get a couple & the third one will drop in time with the ball coming off the pop.
With the flippers on the pins, I can sort of do a pass by letting the ball bounce off the center post as well.
IMG_1645 (resized).JPGIMG_1646 (resized).JPGThat helps a lot. I wonder if the flippers are supposed to be in that position? The flippers being down might put a little right spin on the ball that could assist in sweeping the drops.
I’ll check my lane guide too.
I put my playfield up recently to service some bulbs and then when I put it back down I noticed that the machine would randomly just completely reset in the middle of a game. I lifted the playfield and re-seated it, unplugged it, turned it back on and it was working fine. Then the next day it reset randomly again. Now it's hit or miss - sometimes I go 5 games in a row with no resets, and other times it resets after a few minutes, and one time it even got locked in an infinite reset loop where it would never even fully power on before resetting. Any thoughts on what I should check?
Nothing has happened to it recently - no trauma and I haven't touched anything. It just sort of started happening. Is it fuse related perhaps? I appreciate any and all advice!!!
Quoted from Phat_Jay:Have you rebuilt your power board? Those bridges are failure prone.
No. Is that a pretty involved thing?
Quoted from brianmcculloh:No. Is that a pretty involved thing?
I don’t understand this question.
BEST THing to do is buy a new bower board and solder the wires in one at a time from the other power board... right guys?
Quoted from Chosen_S:I don’t understand this question.
BEST THing to do is buy a new bower board and solder the wires in one at a time from the other power board... right guys?
I don't think resetting in the middle of the game has anything to do with the power/rectifier board. I have resetting issues with one of my Sterns that has fairly new rectifier board. I'm not sure what the problem is and I think it is something to do with the MPU. Maybe so and maybe not. But I don't think it is the rectifier board and unless I was absolutely certain there are problems with the rectifier board I would not want to be removing and soldering wires only to discover the resetting problem is still there.
Quoted from cottonm4:I don't think resetting in the middle of the game has anything to do with the power/rectifier board. I have resetting issues with one of my Sterns that has fairly new rectifier board. I'm not sure what the problem is and I think it is something to do with the MPU. Maybe so and maybe not. But I don't think it is the rectifier board and unless I was absolutely certain there are problems with the rectifier board I would not want to be removing and soldering wires only to discover the resetting problem is still there.
My F2k resets and it’s 100% the power board. It’s the large connector that runs across the bottom. That needs repinned.
With the game on, jiggle the wires coming off the bottom connector of the power board. See if it resets the game.
Quoted from chuckwurt:My F2k resets and it’s 100% the power board. It’s the large connector that runs across the bottom. That needs repinned.
With the game on, jiggle the wires coming off the bottom connector of the power board. See if it resets the game.
Thanks, I will do when I get home! And which one is the power board?
Quoted from brianmcculloh:Thanks, I will do when I get home! And which one is the power board?
I believe chuckwurt is talking about the the rectifier board.
I’d reseat all the connections before wiggling them. Since it started after you lifted the playfield there’s a chance one of the wires pulled a connector just enough to cause an intermittent issue
Read a bit through this stuff http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#tp
could be cold solder joints, burnt pins, or a couple of components about to fail
Do you have a multimeter to read the test points ? naturally it's difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem. 
When you lifted the playfield does it put ANY strain on the cables going up into the back box ? (I'd think cold solder joints or burnt or broken "trifericon" connector pins)
Quoted from chuckwurt:My F2k resets and it’s 100% the power board. It’s the large connector that runs across the bottom. That needs repinned.
With the game on, jiggle the wires coming off the bottom connector of the power board. See if it resets the game.
OK. That's connector J-3. i'll give that a look. I'll look at the print and try to figure out was pins are the culprits.
Thanks.
I took a look at the connector on the power/rectifier board and sure enough it was a tad loose (I think). I re-seated it and had absolutely no issues after several hours of use tonight. I think that was it! I will follow up here if I notice it happening again. Thanks for all the speedy and helpful advice everyone!
Thanks guys. It looks like I’m missing a nut under each of those cap screws.
Stern must’ve ordered those screws wrong or had a surplus of them. I can’t believe they would design it with 2 nuts and threads showing between them.
I’m having trouble with my drop mech getting out of alignment. Is there anything that is supposed to keep these in the channel? You can see that drop 3 has moved to the right and won’t function properly
It’s almost like that channel part of mech was put together backwards...
DB70F79C-A346-415A-B4A8-A66F65AF14FA (resized).jpeg
New Flight 2K owner here. I was wondering if any of you could help me out.
Could someone provide detailed photos of the left side of the 5 bank drop mech? Specifically, the left most switch. It isn't working, and I discovered a loose wire W-Y, or white with a yellow stripe. Based on wire memory, I am guessing it goes somewhere on that left switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have looked at the schematic, but I am ashamed to admit that I have no idea what I am looking at.
Photo of the wire and general location.
Capture (resized).JPGmy #1 drop target on the left is white w/blue stripe while yours is white w/grey on the other contact.
the yellow stripe on mine seems pretty clearly shown as a common feeding the bus to all the switches.
my white w/blue conductor change colors on the other side of the connector to white w/black (as per the playfield schematics)
Anyways the white w/yellow is both correct on my machine & on the schematic
IMG_1647 (resized).JPGIMG_1648 (resized).JPGDoes anyone know what the original spinner decals look like on F2K? Everyone seems to have different spinners in their game.
These are on mine. Any idea what game they are for? I really like the one on the left lock shot. It fits that color scheme perfectly
7543CC9E-7C58-4092-8CED-A4BC2DE2A8A1 (resized).jpeg9302C483-FD52-46CE-A068-A3D8D9C786B3 (resized).jpegBD7F1728-0CC6-41FB-BA61-15FF4D10205D (resized).jpegE0B74442-0B3B-480E-9237-4078433E98B2 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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