DanMarino - check the diodes at switches 5, 12, 19 and 26 just for giggles.

6946F889-3C62-4C46-8FC0-40CB8CEEDB61 (resized).jpeg

I put my multi-meter on the diode setting. I checked the readings and in one direction I didn't get anything. In the other direction I got a reading of around 1460 or something like that. I compared the readings to other similar diodes on the "B-O-F-F" switches and those diodes read about the same exact thing.

For the heck of it I touched up the solder connections for the diode on the Out Hole (Right) switch. I did the self-diagnostic test again using the coin door switch and switch #33 Out Hole (Right) is still having a problem.

Thanks emsrph. I'll check those switch diodes tonight after we do our Easter celebration. I'll report back tonight.

Correct diode is 1N4004, but the 4007 should work. if your meter doesn't have a diode test setting, I think you can use the volt meter set on MV to test. A good diode will show about 60 MV in one direction and 0 in the other. I would also do a physical check on the leaf blades for any shorts. Make sure the insulator(fish paper), if any, or not worn.

If diode on sw 33 micro tests good, the micro may have failed, they do go bad occasionally. I think you can rob one from an old coin door if you have any. You just need to change the trip wire.

Thanks emsrph,

I’m new to pinballs and trouble shooting. Can you help me understand why you are suggesting to test diodes on a diagonal on the switch matrix from switch #33?

I was thinking I would test 25, 17, 9, and 1?

Thanks again for all the help. I’ll be able to work on the machine again when I get back home on Monday evening.

Thanks Lovef2k, I ordered 50 1N4004 diodes!

Anytime! So glad Pinside is back!

I recall reading several threads where 'ghost' switch matrix issues are diagnosed by drawing a box around the affected switch and the bad actor is at the opposite corner of this box. That's why I picked those switches. Anybody know more detail on that box theory?

Certainly you can check diodes on switches of the same row, and for that matter those on the same column too. The test is quick and easy.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thank you again!
I need to check the diodes on those switches under the playfield, correct?

Yep, the diodes are on the switches under the playfield. Power OFF. Meter on diode setting. Test forward and backward (reversing black and red leads). One direction you should get a reading of 0.4-0.8 volts and other direction “OL”.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes

19E9DD74-3F7C-4AAC-B447-EC218D53E097 (resized).jpeg

Some other thoughts- if the diodes are ok, then it might be that the switches are stuck closed (look for necessary gap between the blade contacts) or it could be a bad capacitor (clip one of the legs to take it out of the circuit). See picture above for the capacitor

Looks like no capacitor on my right out hole switch. Just a diode.

No capacitor on a saucer type switch is to be expected. It’s typically quick hit switches that have capacitors.

My point was where there is a capacitor on a suspect switch it could be a failure point, especially if original.

1. I removed the J2 and J3 connectors from the MPU board and reconnected them.
2. I moved all of the drop targets up.
3. I removed the balls.
4. I did the switch test and got a 0.
5. I rolled a ball over all of the switches to make sure they registered and all was fine.
6. I started a game.
7. I put 1 ball in the locker. Another ball ejected.
8. I put a second ball in the locker. Another ball ejected.
9. I knocked down targets and switches and all seemed fine. So I turned the game off and restarted.
10. The game worked perfectly and I got my high score. Haha!

I guess reseating the J2 and J3 connectors fixed the problem.

Lesson learned. At least now I have a bunch of diodes to start replacing the old ones with.

Thank you to everyone who assisted, especially emsrph. I don't really understand why it is working now, but we will keep playing it and see if it malfunctions again.

QHEB6870[1] (resized).JPG

You're now officially a repair person but future skill to learn will be re-pinning connectors. Enjoy your game.

Congratulations, @DanMarino. For however long it lasts, your F2K is now B.R. - "between repairs".

haha. Too funny and so true!

I repinned my entire game at time of restore. Been rock solid for the last 6 years. We'll worth the effort.

I'm back. The problem is back. The switch test using the coin door says that switch #33 is closed. That's the right out hole again.
I removed the J2 connector from the MPU board and got a flashing 0.
My understanding is that this tells me that the problem is under the playfield, is this correct?

No need to double post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-problem-after-2-balls-get-locked#post-6231735

Thanks for everyone's assistance with my Flight 2000. The game plays fine now that the broken right out hole leaf switch was replaced.

I'm guessing this is unrelated, but we are now losing some of the sound effects. The speech seems to work fine. However a lot of the rocket/explosion type sounds seem to now be missing. Especially when you launch for multi-ball and the explosion/rocket sounds that happen after a game is over.

I don't have a clue about how to trouble shoot the sound boards. I'm guessing the top sound board is the place to check first?

My F2K taking off from exile in a basement estate sale!

EAD244FC-A07F-439E-BFE0-AA53405985B1 (resized).jpeg

F8D7C955-F485-4867-BAF8-EB55D10E238D (resized).jpeg

Congrats, I wonder why someone doubled up the rubbers on the sling shots...

thank you Lovef2k

got it 10 minutes from my house as an estate sale was finishing up...great deal!

That's awesome, especially since people selling pins think they're worth a mint.

Oh...it’s got issues
all I had when I got it was GI

F650DCEB-90A9-4E2D-B676-491D456A3042 (resized).jpeg

It's one heavy SOB!

Oh it's heavy! Wide body plus 2 inches longer than standard Stern cab of that era. I'm guessing that the connector plugs for the rectifier board are just as bad as the header pins? I would get the nvram.weebly board but it looks like the fully assembled boards are out of stock, bummer. Hopefully be back soon. You should definitely replace the connectors and housings for the rectifier board.

Do the MPU LED light do anything when throwing power on? Has the MPU battery leaked?

Congruatulations! Excellent find! Had mine for a couple of months now and it always has something wrong with it. Continuous problems. This is my first pinball machine, so maybe all machines are like this one? It's fun if it works right. My machine has never been 100% fully working. Your playfield looks pretty nice! I dig it.

What issues and what has been done? Does it have the original boards? If you haven't done so there are updates to the driver that add three jumpers on the back to ensure you have solid power for the game. That and replace the large 5V capacitor if original. I did notice on my flight 2000 that the .100" connector pins were brittle and some switched stopped registering after unplugging and plugging in a connector to test another board. One of the pins broke. Had to put on fresh pins, etc. Once you work out the bugs it should be fine.

Lovef2k - just speculation, but maybe the former owner wanted to slow down the game of tennis those two slings play with each other?

Pretty common operator trick back in the day to prevent balls from sneaking underneath the sling and causing service calls.

The ball's moving fast there; I can see how it might slip under a band and get stuck

Current situation is:
1. Some sounds are missing. Especially the explosion sounds that happen when the ball launcher activates and at the end of a game.
2. Speech seems fine.
3. Game will shut down and reboot in the middle of a game for no reason.
4. Still have a 2nd Stage Go light that is on all the time near the 5 bank drop targets.

Main issue is the shutting down and restarting.

A new power/rectifier board has been installed. I did new connectors on the big plug on the rectifier board.

Looks like the MPU board has a tag on it saying it was worked on by Mike Tolley in 2014.
Also looks like replacement cables to the sound board.

If I get bored this weekend I'll pull a couple of the boards and check the solder connections on the back side.

IMG_7698[1] (resized).JPG

IMG_7699[1] (resized).JPG

IMG_7700[1] (resized).JPG

IMG_7701[1] (resized).JPG

IMG_7702[1] (resized).JPG

without going through the schematic why is there a connection from the lamp driver board to the speech module?

I’m the wrong guy to ask. Haha. Maybe because lights trigger the speech?

Same signal does but uses lamp interrupt two. So yes that's correct.

DanMarino - As part of your troubleshooting, check your main on/off switch under the cabinet. Mine was worn out far enough that it would wiggle and reset the game. A new switch fixed my problem; you might be lucky enough to have that be your problem too.

Check the dc voltage getting to the MPU. Black ground lead on TP4, red lead on TP5.

Your solenoid driver board and/or connectors may be providing 5vdc voltage too low to the MPU.

How did transistor testing go on the lamp driver board?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-club-members-and-fans-welcome/page/28#post-6198234

DanMarino , hook up your ground braid in the head

F2k ground braid (resized).jpg

I did this test. With the machine on it was reading 4.1 to 4.2 volts. Then while I was testing it reset and did the 5 beeps again on the MPU. Now it is 4.45 volts.

Secured that strap to ground.

Here is the back side of the SB 300.
IMG_7712[1] (resized).JPGIMG_7716[1] (resized).JPG

I touched up a few of the pin connections along the bottom.

Speech was fine. Most sounds appear to be there. The explosion sounds when you blast off are missing, when you spell the word blast, and at the end of the game. There are some noises when the explosions are supposed to sound, but it's not the normal explosion noises it used to make.

I played about 8 or 9 games and eventually it shut down and restarted on me again. So I'm guessing the voltage dropped like it did when I was testing the voltage at TP 4 and TP 5.

Should the next step be to remove the MPU board and look at the back of it?

Or should I look at my power rectifier board again in the cabinet? The power rectifier board is new and about 2 months ago I replaced almost all of the connections on the wire harnesses that connect to it.

The voltage is too low and is why the MPU is rebooting. Check some voltages on the solenoid driver board. Black lead on ground strap. Red lead on test point as follows:

TP1 should be +4.9 to 5.2 vdc
TP3 should be +4.9 to 5.2 vdc
TP5 should be +12 vdc to 16.5 vdc

Good Morning!

Here are my measurements from the solenoid driver board.

TP1 = 4.9 volts.
TP3 = 4.9 volts.
TP5 = 12.76 to 12.89 volts and seems to fluctuate more than the other two.

I retested TP4 to TP5 on the MPU board and it was 4.29 to 4.41 volts.

So does that mean voltage is dropping between the solenoid driver board and the MPU board someplace?

Yes, most likely tarnished or burnt pins and/or headers on SDB J3 and MPU J4.

With power off, unplug those and inspect for condition. If they’re damaged you have some re-pinning connectors and replacing headers to do.

E6C21A4E-8A4E-4869-BACF-3B465E60CACC (resized).png

Doesn't fire in test mode but "tests fine" means not open windings or shorted windings on the coil itself ?

Bad transistor on the SDB ? (Q14 I think https://www.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf)

Try grounding the coil with a jumper wire. Cab ground to coil lug. If fires most likely bad transistor or connector.

Awesome emsrph,

I removed the SDB J3 and MPU J4 connectors. The pins looked fine, so I shined them up a little with steel wool.
The connectors seemed fine too. Nothing was burnt looking. The wires and connectors seemed snug in the plastic connectors.
I plugged them back in and re-tested the voltage on the MPU TP4 and TP5. It now reads 4.83 volts. So that's a pretty big improvement.

I have played a few games and the missing explosion sounds are now working!
Thank you very much emsrph!