(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,325 posts
  • 148 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by chas10e
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).png
Screen Shot 2024-03-16 at 5.55.11 PM (resized).png
PXL_20240310_020948866 (resized).jpg
PF (resized).JPG
IMG20230430200630 (resized).jpg
IMG_4170 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4169 (resized).jpeg
9054E268-F271-40DC-805F-FFAB1924C7B8 (resized).jpeg
9AE80644-F808-46B1-9F40-1EDD65ADB443 (resized).jpeg
15ADFD65-8328-4778-834A-E5EA14EF10DB (resized).jpeg
IMG_9952 (resized).JPG
IMG_9950 (resized).JPG
IMG_9947 (resized).JPG
IMG_9944 (resized).JPG
5D2006E0-2E7A-4A88-A92F-E32EC01C9A5C (resized).jpeg
IMG_9886 (resized).JPG

There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 47.
#1301 3 years ago

Take it from Slochar, he's an expert. I would like to add, that most of the time, the fuse holder under the PF has worn out clips, meaning less tension and can cause some heat there from added resistance. I always replace that fuse holder when doing PF swaps. Just in case the fuse label is missing, it should be a 1.25 amp slow blow fuse. Keep plenty on hand.

1 week later
#1302 3 years ago

My son and I bought this Flight 2000 over the weekend!

We fixed one of the ball trough switches and now it will load balls and play.
It still has trouble booting up when we first turn it on. It does the 5 or 7 beeps and then sometimes freaks out, shoots solenoids, and starts again and eventually boots up.

Other times it will die while playing a game and then start trying to reboot.

It's a lot of fun. The playfield needs cleaning, repainting, and waxing or clear coat.

Plus we have about 15 or 20 lights that are out.

The cabinet is loose too on the front left side near the coin door. So gotta glue that up and get some of the newer leg braces.

IMG_7390[1] (resized).JPGIMG_7390[1] (resized).JPG

#1303 3 years ago

Pardon my ignorance but can someone tell me what the black tack/nail next to the upper left of the coin door is/was for?

#1304 3 years ago
Quoted from Kanned_69:

Pardon my ignorance but can someone tell me what the black tack/nail next to the upper left of the coin door is/was for?

When u open the coin door all the way.
It protects the cabinet. Try it and you will see.

#1305 3 years ago

I bought the anti flicker boards made by siegecraft for
my meteor rebuild but I went ahead and got a new alltek
lamp board for meteor so I'm gonna put.the siegecraft
boards on my f2k. Do they work pretty good on f2k.?
I've got leds in all gi but fluorescents in the controlled
lighting so I wanted to led color match the inserts.
Hoping for no flicker.

#1306 3 years ago

I'll be replacing this when the new board comes in.

IMG_7426[1] (resized).JPGIMG_7426[1] (resized).JPG
#1307 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I'll be replacing this when the new board comes in.
[quoted image]

That one actually doesn't look too bad compared to other boards I've seen. a set of new heavy duty bridges on the top of the board w/heatsinks and some other cleanup would make that board work ok.

#1308 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

That one actually doesn't look too bad compared to other boards I've seen. a set of new heavy duty bridges on the top of the board w/heatsinks and some other cleanup would make that board work ok.

Agree. Pardon the ‘Bally’ in a ‘Stern’ topic.

A good first board to work on if you want to gain experience. Nice large traces, no IC’s, very forgiving.

CF7DDF82-8E5B-4ECE-8DF9-E8551C94B007 (resized).pngCF7DDF82-8E5B-4ECE-8DF9-E8551C94B007 (resized).png
#1309 3 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

When u open the coin door all the way.
It protects the cabinet. Try it and you will see.

Before seeing it in pics in other posts in this forum I thought it didn't belong there and thought about removing it.
Thanks, now I can sleep at night

#1310 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Isn't that weird? I noticed the same thing - the short list of threads I watch go blank for days or sometimes weeks at a time. A year or two ago, you could start a vigorous arg... um, discussion just by asking "liquid wax or paste?".

Okay, thank’s for inviting this question: Are fast acting fuses the same as regular fuses (as opposed to slow blo)?

Also, MAJOR PROBLEM, after some quirky issues with ball not registering as drained when it drained, now, on power on, the power comes on, bulbs light, but no reset is happening, i.e. balls are not released from walker, and self-test button won’t activate. Is there a fuse I should check first? Thanks all!

#1311 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Okay, thank’s for inviting this question: Are fast acting fuses the same as regular fuses (as opposed to slow blo)?

Yes. Normal, a.k.a. Fast Acting, fuses are intolerant - that is, they blow when they pass their design load. Slow Blow fuses will put up with brief overloads (like a power surge) but won't tolerate sustained overloads.

As for your problem, I'll defer to more experienced advisors, if they're watching this.

#1312 3 years ago

Also, in the gameplay category, i finally hit a shot that I’ve been trying for literally ever. The ultimate shot is an (and excuse me for not knowing proper lingo) alley shot from left to right that hits the “O”, and has just enough spin and trajectory to fall slightly left and then hit the “F” next to the “O” on its way back down to the right flipper. If the pin is set so that “F” spots a target, and if you were in the progression where you just needed “1”, and hitting the “F” spotted it, you could unlock multi ball with that shot. So then, as the ball is going from the “F” to the right flipper, without controlling/stopping the ball, hit the left spinner and start multi ball. I finally got this shot, not in the ultimate scenario, just randomly, when it did not unlock multi ball. I got it on like the 10th try or so, which was weird because then i got it on the 11th as well. I missed a bunch of times after that, and believe it or not i actually randomly did my first vid of a game, and happened to do it in the video as well. Not sure how to post video though. Any else familiar with this shot?

#1313 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Yes. Normal, a.k.a. Fast Acting, fuses are intolerant - that is, they blow when they pass their design load. Slow Blow fuses will put up with brief overloads (like a power surge) but won't tolerate sustained overloads.

Thanks. I hate asking questions like this some of the simplest stuff can be rough for us newbies.

#1314 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Thanks. I hate asking questions like this some of the simplest stuff can be rough for us newbies.

The common term for your cross-flipper shot (getting the "O" and the "F" together) is an alley pass. Also referred to as Shatzing:

I succeed about 1 out of 4 or more tries; it's fun when it works!

#1315 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Okay, thank’s for inviting this question: Are fast acting fuses the same as regular fuses (as opposed to slow blo)?
Also, MAJOR PROBLEM, after some quirky issues with ball not registering as drained when it drained, now, on power on, the power comes on, bulbs light, but no reset is happening, i.e. balls are not released from walker, and self-test button won’t activate. Is there a fuse I should check first? Thanks all!

Sounds like one of the outhole switches is not registering. Game won’t start unless switches work and see balls. You may need to adjust the switches.

Try to hear the click when you press the wire down and then see if ball will also. Test with game off using a meter on continuity to confirm switch works. Look for broken wires. You may need to remove the apron to access. Bend switch actuator carefully and only very slightly if adjustment is required.

#1316 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Okay, thank’s for inviting this question: Are fast acting fuses the same as regular fuses (as opposed to slow blo)?
Also, MAJOR PROBLEM, after some quirky issues with ball not registering as drained when it drained, now, on power on, the power comes on, bulbs light, but no reset is happening, i.e. balls are not released from walker, and self-test button won’t activate. Is there a fuse I should check first? Thanks all!

It sounds like your MPU is flaky on the boot up sequence, most likely the reset section. Recently I removed my Two Bits MPU (similar to Alltek) and put in a clean original MPU with a remote battery pack. I did this just see if the MPU was reliable and it's not booting when it has been sitting a day or two. Same yours, the game will just light the GI's and nothing happens. If I wait a few seconds and try it again, it will boot. Sometimes it takes 2 tries.

When your game has sat for 24 hours or so, open the back box and while throwing the power on, watch the LED on the MPU. The first thing to look for is a very brief "flicker" before the 7 beeps start. That flicker needs to happen before the MPU can start to boot. If it doesn't, the MPU LED will probably lock on. Many things can cause the MPU to lock up, but the reset section issues are probably the most common and easiest to fix. Read up on Pinwiki.com Bally/Stern section. There's a section that explains the boot process, and most likely how to troubleshoot.

To add to what emsrph said, make sure the ball is rolling freely to the trough switches. Sometimes a rubber cap or a foreign object can end up in that area. Any build up of dirt can hinder the ball flow as well as the game not being level or not pitched enough.

#1317 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

The common term for your cross-flipper shot (getting the "O" and the "F" together) is an alley pass. Also referred to as Shatzing:

I succeed about 1 out of 4 or more tries; it's fun when it works!

Yes, that’s the first part of the shot, but then imagine the ball goes up the “O” in lane, and then down the “F” in lane, and then, hitting the left spinner, without stopping the ball...

#1318 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

When your game has sat for 24 hours or so, open the back box and while throwing the power on, watch the LED on the MPU.

Thanks. Are the LED’s just on the TP’s? I’m using the ultimate alltek system.

#1319 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Thanks. Are the LED’s just on the TP’s? I’m using the ultimate alltek system.

No LED’s flicker or come on.

#1320 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

No LED’s flicker or come on.

I forgot you have alltek mpu. I think they have LEDs to show that the 5 and 12v are present? If they do and they are not lighting it may be a power supply or solenoid driver problem. Always start by checking voltages at power supply rectifier board if ok check solenoid driver voltages. Be careful of the high volt areas of both boards. Test point values are listed on pinwiki.com.

#1321 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I forgot you have alltek mpu. I think they have LEDs to show that the 5 and 12v are present? If they do and they are not lighting it may be a power supply or solenoid driver problem. Always start by checking voltages at power supply rectifier board if ok check solenoid driver voltages. Be careful of the high volt areas of both boards. Test point values are listed on pinwiki.com.

Thank you. I will start there...

#1322 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Yes, that’s the first part of the shot, but then imagine the ball goes up the “O” in lane, and then down the “F” in lane, and then, hitting the left spinner, without stopping the ball...

Ha, ha - yeah, that's the miracle shot. I've gotten the u-turn to happen about twice (O to F and back down), but I don't remember going on to start multiball in the same shot!

#1323 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Okay, thank’s for inviting this question: Are fast acting fuses the same as regular fuses (as opposed to slow blo)?
Also, MAJOR PROBLEM, after some quirky issues with ball not registering as drained when it drained, now, on power on, the power comes on, bulbs light, but no reset is happening, i.e. balls are not released from walker, and self-test button won’t activate. Is there a fuse I should check first? Thanks all!

I just had similar problems with my Flight 2000 not booting up, and when if it did boot up, it would reboot randomly during a game. I replaced the power rectifier board and recrimped the J3 20 pin connection. That solved all my problems. What does the front and back of your power rectifier board look like in the base cabinet?

#1324 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

What does the front and back of your power rectifier board look like in the base cabinet?

Check it out. Pretty rough?

202C3BD4-481F-42F8-8AFF-0CB62F11EC3B (resized).jpeg202C3BD4-481F-42F8-8AFF-0CB62F11EC3B (resized).jpegAF68CA10-006E-4311-BE09-AF74DF317692 (resized).jpegAF68CA10-006E-4311-BE09-AF74DF317692 (resized).jpeg
#1325 3 years ago

That actually looks pretty good from what I have seen before. Looks like the bridge rectifiers are original? New ones are 4 times the size and mount on the front of the board. Did you do a voltage test yet?

#1326 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That actually looks pretty good from what I have seen before. Looks like the bridge rectifiers are original? New ones are 4 times the size and mount on the front of the board. Did you do a voltage test yet?

I’m no expert, but yours looks way better than mine was. A replacement is $60 if you want to install a new one that is not 41 years old.

How does the connector for the bug 20 pin connection look?

#1327 3 years ago

Dang, my #3 and #4 countdown drop targets broke off yesterday!

It gave me an excuse to order a new set of 5 from Marco, along with new rubber rings, flipper rings, and some new pinballs.

Hopefully, I'll be able to get that taken care of this weekend. Do I need to remove the whole assembly from the underside of the playfield to fix them?

QHKN6537[1] (resized).JPGQHKN6537[1] (resized).JPG
#1328 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Dang, my #3 and #4 countdown drop targets broke off yesterday!
It gave me an excuse to order a new set of 5 from Marco, along with new rubber rings, flipper rings, and some new pinballs.
Hopefully, I'll be able to get that taken care of this weekend. Do I need to remove the whole assembly from the underside of the playfield to fix them?
[quoted image]

Yes, you will need to pull the whole mech and rebuild it. It's not bad, just takes an hour or two.

#1329 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I’m no expert, but yours looks way better than mine was. A replacement is $60 if you want to install a new one that is not 41 years old.
How does the connector for the bug 20 pin connection look?

45AE4854-4261-4D0B-B34F-7308B194AB2A (resized).jpeg45AE4854-4261-4D0B-B34F-7308B194AB2A (resized).jpeg485FB587-9229-4E86-A002-F80DA13AB094 (resized).jpeg485FB587-9229-4E86-A002-F80DA13AB094 (resized).jpeg93A0749D-16E1-4D66-8CB9-720D7F9DE4E6 (resized).jpeg93A0749D-16E1-4D66-8CB9-720D7F9DE4E6 (resized).jpeg
#1330 3 years ago

tyking,

Your power rectifier board looks pretty solid to me, same with the pins on it.

It looks like you have a few burned connectors. How do the wires look in the burned spots? I would probably re-crimp new connector pins and check those ones out first. However, I'm brand new to the hobby and have had my own Flight 2000 machine less than a month.

I hope others can provide better help to you.

#1331 3 years ago

I'm still working on my Flight 2000. My replacement set of drop targets will arrive on Friday, so hopefully that will go well this weekend.

I am also going through the lights trying to figure out why about 25% of them still are not working. I'm pretty sure most of the issues are corrosion on the incandescent light bulbs and bulb holders.

I have noticed that my green "Second Stage Go" light is illuminated any time the game is on. Does anyone have some tips for me to try and fix that? I'm guessing the light is powered by a switch in the ball locker mechanism? Or do I need to dig around and look at the light circuit board?

Thanks for the help and my whole family is enjoying the machine.

#1332 3 years ago

Pull the connectors on the lamp board and MPU and shine a light in them to see the contacts. Some can be sprung or broken. My flight 2000 had some brittle pins where the contact broke and had to be repinned. May also have a wire off that needs to be resoldered. Could be bad lamp sockets too.

#1333 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I have noticed that my green "Second Stage Go" light is illuminated any time the game is on. Does anyone have some tips for me to try and fix that? I'm guessing the light is powered by a switch in the ball locker mechanism? Or do I need to dig around and look at the light circuit board?
Thanks for the help and my whole family is enjoying the machine.

The always lit bulb is most likely a bad transistor on the lamp board.

From the pinwiki https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

“Lamp locked on
The usual cause for a lamp that is stuck on is a failed SCR. Bally/Stern employed two different SCR parts to control lamps. The MCR-106 is able to drive two lamps at the same time. The smaller 2N5060 will drive one lamp only. These SCRs fail from sinking too much current, from old blackened bulbs (which draw more current) or from being shorted to something under the playfield carrying high voltage (solenoids). If you accidentally short several lamps together, this can cause the SCR to fail also.“

#1334 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I am also going through the lights trying to figure out why about 25% of them still are not working. I'm pretty sure most of the issues are corrosion on the incandescent light bulbs and bulb holders.

Not working as in no light, or not working as in dim or intermittently dim? I replaced 50 G.I. lamp sockets to clear up annoying dimness or varying amounts of light (from LEDs in my case).

#1335 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Not working as in no light, or not working as in dim or intermittently dim? I replaced 50 G.I. lamp sockets to clear up annoying dimness or varying amounts of light (from LEDs in my case).

Hi Clodpole. Thanks again for the tips.
A lot of the lamps not working right are dimly lit, or vary in brightness. Some of the control lights don't seem to be coming on. Some of the control lights have been fixed by cleaning the bulbs. For a lot of the lamps, I am taking the bulbs out and cleaning the bulbs and then putting them back in. That seems to help most of them so far. It looks like I'll need to put in new sockets, as these seem corroded and worn out. Some of them spin around when I try to take the bulb out too.

The end goal is to install LEDs in the general illumination first.

Then move onto the control lights and whatever is the best, easiest, or cheapest and easiest way to convert control lights to LEDs.

#1336 3 years ago

I installed new 1 through 5 drop targets. The job was a lot easier than I anticipated. The drop targets work great now.

I also installed a new set of rubber rings.

The game is playing pretty fast now.

My next project will be rebuilding the flippers, installing some new light sockets, and installing LED lights. For the LED’s, is there a consensus opinion about cool white, warm white, frosted, or blue/purple LEDs?

#1337 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I installed new 1 through 5 drop targets. The job was a lot easier than I anticipated. The drop targets work great now.
I also installed a new set of rubber rings.
The game is playing pretty fast now.
My next project will be rebuilding the flippers, installing some new light sockets, and installing LED lights. For the LED’s, is there a consensus opinion about cool white, warm white, frosted, or blue/purple LEDs?

I did warm white frosted in GIs except for some purple in the maze area. Color matched all switched lamps.

Just a heads up if using an Alltek led/lamp driver board, you will need to cut 2 wires on the jumper harness that goes between lamp driver and speech board. If you don't do this, I think unwanted voltage will be sent to speech board. The directions with the Alltek will explain it. There's also a jumper wire that needs to be added and comes w the board.

#1338 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

For the LED’s, is there a consensus opinion about cool white, warm white, frosted, or blue/purple LEDs?

I used cool white in the GI and color matched the inserts. Backbox has blue/purple in title and explosion as well as orange behind planet.

I like how the playfield looks but not 100% if I'll keep the blue in the title behind the backglass.

64362e46c02bdcc9c068fb46ee2f5049040d9e8e (resized).png64362e46c02bdcc9c068fb46ee2f5049040d9e8e (resized).png

#1339 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

I used cool white in the GI and color matched the inserts. Backbox has blue/purple in title and explosion as well as orange behind planet.
I like how the playfield looks but not 100% if I'll keep the blue in the title behind the backglass.
[quoted image]

That looks good.

Yesterday I put the siegecraft daughter boards (anti flicker )
On my lamp board and then installed color matched leds
In all my controlled lighting.

It has really made my game look fresh again.

The siegecraft boards work great.
20210314_112348 (resized).jpg20210314_112348 (resized).jpg

ezgif-1-605a2ea540ef.gifezgif-1-605a2ea540ef.gif

#1340 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That actually looks pretty good from what I have seen before. Looks like the bridge rectifiers are original? New ones are 4 times the size and mount on the front of the board. Did you do a voltage test yet?

I checked the TP’s on the rectifier board and they all checked out. So should i be moving to the solenoid driver board and checking those test points next?

#1341 3 years ago

I know this is out of sequence, but @DanMarino, here's the photo you asked for:

IMG_1838 (resized).JPGIMG_1838 (resized).JPG
#1342 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I checked the TP’s on the rectifier board and they all checked out. So should i be moving to the solenoid driver board and checking those test points next?

Yes. Resets during a game are a good indication that the 5v regulator is going bad. It's the large silver transistor in the center of the large heatsink on sol driver. LM323 I believe.

#1343 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

I know this is out of sequence, but DanMarino, here's the photo you asked for:
[quoted image]

Thanks Clodpole! I appreciate the photo. I think my slingshot switches are set the same. I was thinking mine might have been backwards for some reason.

#1344 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yes. Resets during a game are a good indication that the 5v regulator is going bad. It's the large silver transistor in the center of the large heatsink on sol driver. LM323 I believe.

I haven’t run into any bad LM323 regulators yet. I have had to replace the large 5V capacitor on almost all the boards I’ve fixed as well as replacing some headers with worn or sanded off plating.

Not saying that the LM323 never go bad but I’ve had more issues with old caps and bad connections (including cold/cracked solder joints) than anything else. Also an occasional bad diode on a coil. I’d check all these first before the regulator.

#1345 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I haven’t run into any bad LM323 regulators yet. I have had to replace the large 5V capacitor on almost all the boards I’ve fixed as well as replacing some headers with worn or sanded off plating.
Not saying that the LM323 never go bad but I’ve had more issues with old caps and bad connections (including cold/cracked solder joints) than anything else. Also an occasional bad diode on a coil. I’d check all these first before the regulator.

Yeah I was going by my own experience. When I had a xenon the regulator went bad. But as you say, there are many possibilities.

#1346 3 years ago

Here are some photos of my play field damage. I would like to try and touch up the paint. It will never look great, but I was wondering what everyone thinks might be the best approach.

BGHG8576[1] (resized).JPGBGHG8576[1] (resized).JPGDNJB2053[1] (resized).JPGDNJB2053[1] (resized).JPGIRMT0556[1] (resized).JPGIRMT0556[1] (resized).JPGPTFZ7610[1] (resized).JPGPTFZ7610[1] (resized).JPGYGQH3926[1] (resized).JPGYGQH3926[1] (resized).JPG
#1347 3 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Here are some photos of my play field damage. I would like to try and touch up the paint. It will never look great, but I was wondering what everyone thinks might be the best approach.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You should check out kpninja12 ’s topic on restoring his pin. He goes into great detail on touching up the playfield. Color matching, application, etc.

#1348 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I haven’t run into any bad LM323 regulators yet. I have had to replace the large 5V capacitor on almost all the boards I’ve fixed as well as replacing some headers with worn or sanded off plating.
Not saying that the LM323 never go bad but I’ve had more issues with old caps and bad connections (including cold/cracked solder joints) than anything else. Also an occasional bad diode on a coil. I’d check all these first before the regulator.

Here are my readings on the test points. All but TP2 and TP4 seem to be way off. Does this narrow anything down?

SDU

TP1 -.47

TP2 193

TP3 -.47

TP4 253

TP5 -26

TP6 -.46

TP7 -.47

Thanks as always

#1349 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Here are my readings on the test points. All but TP2 and TP4 seem to be way off. Does this narrow anything down?
SDU
TP1 -.47
TP2 193
TP3 -.47
TP4 253
TP5 -26
TP6 -.46
TP7 -.47
Thanks as always

Actually TP 2 and 4 are ok. They are the high voltages for the score displays. Your TP5 is high, but I have seen that before. Go on the Pinwiki.com site, Bally/Stern section 3.21 has TP values for all the boards. Since you have a Alltek MPU and have random issues, I would look at the connectors.

#1350 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Also an occasional bad diode on a coil.

I disconnected all the connectors except the one 20 pin on the solenoid driver board, and am not appearing to get anything other than the high voltage on the test points. First I was going to ask if it would be really lame to just buy a modern solenoid driver board, like the “Ultimate” one on Marco’s website, and repair the old board in my spare time, and use it for the Hotdoggin’ project machine that I can only hope to someday have. But now, I’m wondering if it would be lame to buy a new board, because there was nothing wrong with it, as my problem was a bad diode on a coil, and not the PCB at all.

Also, can someone point me in the direction of some instructions on how to test diodes on a coil. You don’t have to remove the diode do you? Thanks as always.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
20eyes
Cabinet parts
$ 199.95
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 125.00
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 69.00
Electronics
Pinball Haus
Electronics
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet Parts
Rocket City Pinball
Cabinet parts
There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 47.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-club-members-and-fans-welcome/page/27?hl=reaper802 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.