(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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  • 2,325 posts
  • 148 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by chas10e
  • Topic is favorited by 79 Pinsiders

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There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 47.
#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Is it worth sending to someone like Chris to fix the board? But, if it costs $100 fix and the board is only worth $125 to sell, probably not worth the effort, right? Or, maybe I can try to fix myself.

Did you check the flipper enable relay? Perhaps it was holding only for a few seconds and that's why the flipps quit working.

#1252 3 years ago

No I did not. Was hoping for a miracle...plug and play.
I be repinning as next step. Don't wanna be chasing a ghost not knowing if I have solid contact or not.

#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Is there a name for this? When the ball has places in the playfield where it can get “stuck”. If I try to get the ball off this spot by nudging the pin, it always ends up in a tilt. Has anyone else experienced this? How to fix? Angle the pin a bit in the lower to left?
[quoted image]

When my F2K was doing this I put some shim stock around the star post to move the rubber closer to the drops. A quick fix that works well.

#1254 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

No other solenoids work? need more details to pinpoint your problem but it's going to most likely be connector issues.

Yeah, if the drops are working, that indicates there is power coming from the 1 amp fuse to the yellow solenoid wire. Putting on my Joe Shadetree cap would have me running a jumper wire from one of the drop target assembles yellow wire over to a pop bumper and see if that changes the pop behavior.

#1255 3 years ago
Quoted from Sputnik:

When my F2K was doing this I put some shim stock around the star post to move the rubber closer to the drops. A quick fix that works well.

Looks like someone beat me to this. I think i may as well go with three.

444A4CA6-79A4-43C9-86D9-40A83DAB0965 (resized).jpeg444A4CA6-79A4-43C9-86D9-40A83DAB0965 (resized).jpeg
#1256 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Looks like someone beat me to this. I think i may as well go with three.
[quoted image]

Try wrapping some string in the groove of the post, then install the band over the string. This moves the band closer to the drops. A band above or below the groove will not contact the ball on it's centerline.

2 weeks later
#1257 3 years ago

Is the Flight 2000 supposed to have a metal channel in front of the neck for the playfield glass? Don't have one on mine and looking at some of the pictures in this thread I didn't notice one on others either. Noticed it when I was taking a closer look at the neck area.

#1258 3 years ago

Could you post a photo of the spot you're referring to, please?

#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Could you post a photo of the spot you're referring to, please?

My game is at my parents place so I just grabbed one of the images online. All my other games seem to have a metal bar up there at the front of the neck area. Just wondered if Flight 2000 should have one too. Since I haven't seen any in pictures I'm thinking that it may not.

f2kneck (resized).jpgf2kneck (resized).jpg
#1260 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My game is at my parents place so I just grabbed one of the images online. All my other games seem to have a metal bar up there at the front of the neck area. Just wondered if Flight 2000 should have one too. Since I haven't seen any in pictures I'm thinking that it may not.
[quoted image]

Do you mean this metal bar? These were only on early Classic Sterns.

DC5CB25C-D302-4EBB-B2B9-FCA068E6515F (resized).jpegDC5CB25C-D302-4EBB-B2B9-FCA068E6515F (resized).jpeg
#1261 3 years ago
Quoted from kickabit:

Do you mean this metal bar? These were only on early Classic Sterns. [quoted image]

That's the one! Just wanted to find out if flight 2000 was supposed to have one or not. Mine doesn't.

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Is the Flight 2000 supposed to have a metal channel in front of the neck for the playfield glass?

Answer:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
Nope.

#1263 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Answer:
[quoted image]
Nope.

Thank you for the confirmation!

#1264 3 years ago

Mine also does not have one. Thought it was strange, so I checked my other F2K and yep, not there.

#1265 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Mine also does not have one. Thought it was strange, so I checked my other F2K and yep, not there.

The Hot Hand I had did not have those shiny bars going across the top. I don't know about Dracula or Memory Lane, but from Meteor and what came after there is just the piece of wood going across.

I figure Stern was looking to cut costs and that shiny piece did not add to game play.

#1266 3 years ago

I have only seen the glass support bar on Bally games.

#1267 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have only seen the glass support bar on Bally games.

Gottliebs have them as well.

#1268 3 years ago

My early Williams Blackout has a metal bar and I think my other games do too. That's why I though it was odd that Flight 2000 didn't have one and I thought someone may have removed and lost it.

I guess Stern didn't think it was needed and left it off.

#1269 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Gottliebs have them as well.

Its been a while since I owned any GTBs.

#1270 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My early Williams Blackout has a metal bar and I think my other games do too. That's why I though it was odd that Flight 2000 didn't have one and I thought someone may have removed and lost it.
I guess Stern didn't think it was needed and left it off.

O.K. One needs to go back in time...
When game manufactures are making money... they can afford to put quality into there products.
Top earning game manufactures from the 1970's --- early 1980's
#1 Bally, games made money they where on a role.
Close behind,
#2 Williams, same as above but they had a few stinkers.
#3 Gottlieb, they lost being top ranking game manufacturer and making what ever they can to stay afloat.
--- They were bought by Columbia Pictures and they put money into the company...
#4 Stern, they used like Bally system... but quality was crap... cost cutting everything.
#5 Game Plan, same as above...
List below, basically, have one it wonders.
#6 Zaccaria, made a quick splash... hard to get metric parts... odd displays...
#7 Atari.... some odd parts and odd system.
#8 All other odd manufacturers, cocktail tables etc.etc.etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Stern only has a hand full of really good games that made money.
They were broke... thus Seeberg manufacturing bought them out.
The entire coin op industry collapsed at the end of 1982.
Top three manufacturers above would survive... others bowed out and closed their doors.

#1271 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

#3 Gottlieb, they lost being top ranking game manufacturer and making what ever they can to stay afloat.
--- They were bought by Columbia Pictures and they put money into the company...
#4 Stern, they used like Bally system... but quality was crap... cost cutting everything.

So it looks like the metal bar ended @ #3, at least by example of the attached pic on a Gottlieb system 80, James Bond 007.

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1 week later
#1272 3 years ago

Hello all,
Just finishing up my F2K and have a flipper alignment question.
If I use the pins behind the flippers it doesn't look right.
Use pins, don't use pins, if not, why are they even there.
Thanks
Mark

IMG_20201216_183525415 (resized).jpgIMG_20201216_183525415 (resized).jpg
#1273 3 years ago
Quoted from OCD_pinball:

If I use the pins behind the flippers it doesn't look right.
Use pins, don't use pins, if not, why are they even there.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I understand. The pins are useful as a reference, but the flippers don't actually rest against them. I made a little tool out of a coffee stirring straw which fits over the pin. I wrapped electricians tape around the straw until I got the diameter I wanted. Then I could tighten the pawl screws from underneath while holding the flipper against the tool.

I vaguely remember reading about the intent of the pins, but I can't find it in my documentation.

#1274 3 years ago

I try to align the front face of the flipper at the same angle as the inlane ball guide. But, yeah, the pins are weird.

#1275 3 years ago

Flippers on this game are meant to droop. If you’re don’t like how it plays, shift to inline with the lane guides and then see. Intended angle is the dropped flippers tbough. Makes the right drop target sweep easier and the middle shots more difficult

#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Flippers on this game are meant to droop.

This ^^^

The pins are there as the reference point to align the flippers. When the flippers are down they should rest against the pins for optimum flipper angle. These Sterns are not intended to have the flippers aligned with the return lane guides like Williams machines.

There was a long discussion on this in the Stern club thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/78#post-5872885

#1277 3 years ago

Thank you all,
I'm gonna go DROOPY first and see how it plays.

#1278 3 years ago

Post your thoughts, please. I didn't droop mine and I kinda think it plays like shit. Been meaning to adjust them for a while now.

#1279 3 years ago

Interesting. I will try mine drooped and on the pins. I have found that having them aligned to the lane guides makes it harder to hit the ball walking mech.

#1280 3 years ago

So this week I broke another plastic on my F2K. I got my wife a laser cutter for her birthday so she can cut custom acrylic now. If I want to put a clear acrylic piece under the existing plastics so the new stronger acrylic takes all the hits should I make it the same size or just slightly wider? Anyone have any experience with that?

#1281 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

So this week I broke another plastic on my F2K. I got my wife a laser cutter for her birthday so she can cut custom acrylic now. If I want to put a clear acrylic piece under the existing plastics so the new stronger acrylic takes all the hits should I make it the same size or just slightly wider? Anyone have any experience with that?

Make it slightly wider so it can take first impact.

#1282 3 years ago

Yeah, that was my assumption. I just wasn't sure how much wider to go. I'm thinking of trying a quarter of an inch border.

#1283 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Yeah, that was my assumption. I just wasn't sure how much wider to go. I'm thinking of trying a quarter of an inch border.

1/4” will not hurt. 1/8” will probably work OK.

#1284 3 years ago

On the flipper alignment I have played a friends which is aligned with inland guides and mine which are drooped. Drooped is easier to hit the walker and right spinner for sure, though I do find it more difficult to hit the middle standup target. Overall I prefer drooped for this game.

#1285 3 years ago

Laser cut the sling protectors today. This video is sped up 5x. I wish it was this fast.


PXL_20201224_182417921.jpgPXL_20201224_182417921.jpgPXL_20201224_182742456.jpgPXL_20201224_182742456.jpg

2 weeks later
#1286 3 years ago

cool how much for a set?

1 week later
#1287 3 years ago

I just had the 3A SB Line In Fuse blow. I had a problem with the EOS lock shut on the right flipper. Coil burned up. Are the flippers on the circuit where the 3A SB fuse blew or do I have 2 separate issues?

#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from KurtisEBear:

I just had the 3A SB Line In Fuse blow. I had a problem with the EOS lock shut on the right flipper. Coil burned up. Are the flippers on the circuit where the 3A SB fuse blew or do I have 2 separate issues?

Flipper voltage comes from the rectifier board and has it's own fuse. Your line fuse may have blown due to age possibly or the coil power fuse has an over rated fuse. A spike in the ac line, check your line voltage at outlet. Rare but maybe the line filter is checking out. Also rare, the transformer may also be going bad.

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Flipper voltage comes from the rectifier board and has it's own fuse. Your line fuse may have blown due to age possibly or the coil power fuse has an over rated fuse. A spike in the ac line, check your line voltage at outlet. Rare but maybe the line filter is checking out. Also rare, the transformer may also be going bad.

Correction. The flippers are fused by the coil voltage coming from the power supply, rectifier board. The flippers don't have their own fuse as I implied in previous post.

2 weeks later
#1290 3 years ago

Ok, I *know* I found a site where they sold PCBs for replacing the lamp sockets on (among others) Flight 2000.
I apparently didn't bookmark it, and now my Google-fu isn't strong enough to find it again.
Has anyone else stumbled across this and can provide a link ?

#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Ok, I *know* I found a site where they sold PCBs for replacing the lamp sockets on (among others) Flight 2000.
I apparently didn't bookmark it, and now my Google-fu isn't strong enough to find it again.
Has anyone else stumbled across this and can provide a link ?

I gotchya brother. It's pinball replacement parts. Don't forget you will need to buy the twist sockets also and this will get pricey.

#1292 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I gotchya brother. It's pinball replacement parts. Don't forget you will need to buy the twist sockets also and this will get pricey.

Lovef2k awesome, thanks !

#1293 3 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a Flight2000 general repair/maintenance kit? ie. an assortment of replacement bulbs, solenoids, rubbers, spinners, etc that are the high wear items that need most frequent replacement? I hate paying shipping on the piece meal repairs I am making.

#1294 3 years ago

Is it the time of the year? Or the whole world situation? This forum which I check with the anticipation of something new to learn about F2K has become very quiet. Please please somebody entertain me with something wrong or newly fixed with their F2K. Yeah I know I'm lame.

#1295 3 years ago

Ive been looking for a flight 2000 for awhile now. I hope that one comes my way soon. When it does then i will bring this forum back to its glory days.

#1296 3 years ago
Quoted from KurtisEBear:

Does anyone know if there is a Flight2000 general repair/maintenance kit? ie. an assortment of replacement bulbs, solenoids, rubbers, spinners, etc that are the high wear items that need most frequent replacement? I hate paying shipping on the piece meal repairs I am making.

You can buy a prepackaged kit of rubber rings. You can probably buy an LED kit that one of the LED retailers make up an sell. Stern spinners are used market only; You can buy some remanufactured spinners at the usual pin parts sellers.

Solenoids are not wear items. But you can easily buy any solenoid that you would need.

You will just have to make your own kit and order that way.

And it always seems to happen that about 30 minutes after to place your order you realize you needed to order something else that you over looked; I would say that this is about the only constant in the pinball ball hobby; Some times I feel like I have spent more money of shipping fees than on parts.

#1297 3 years ago
Quoted from Kanned_69:

Is it the time of the year? Or the whole world situation? This forum which I check with the anticipation of something new to learn about F2K has become very quiet. Please please somebody entertain me with something wrong or newly fixed with their F2K. Yeah I know I'm lame.

Isn't that weird? I noticed the same thing - the short list of threads I watch go blank for days or sometimes weeks at a time. A year or two ago, you could start a vigorous arg... um, discussion just by asking "liquid wax or paste?".

#1298 3 years ago

Just finished touching up a playfield that came to me in pretty good condition. Anyone looking for a playfield?

PXL_20210218_155453623 (resized).jpgPXL_20210218_155453623 (resized).jpg
#1299 3 years ago

Happy to officially be in the club!

Brought home a Flight 2000 recently and during the reassembly/clean up/testing phase noticed that there was no playfield fuse installed....yet the machine seems to be fully functioning. Traced the wiring and discovered a jumped wire from the right flipper to the outlane kicker. Machine has been well maintained, and everything is else is clean, no hack jobs, so it puzzled me a bit that this bypass exists. I am new-ish to repair, and interested in learning, and I’m curious about the following:

1. Why would a tech bypass this fuse? Is there ever a legitimate reason?

2. The MPU and solenoid driver boards are Alltek ( which I read has coil protection), do the presence of these boards nullify the need for the playfield fuse? Could removing this bypass actually cause me any issues?

3. What is the risk / danger in operating machine with this fuse bypassed?

I appreciate anyones input on these questions! Thank you! Ready to Blastoff! ...Once I know I won’t start any fires.

#1300 3 years ago
Quoted from sdscribe:

1. Why would a tech bypass this fuse? Is there ever a legitimate reason?

2. The MPU and solenoid driver boards are Alltek ( which I read has coil protection), do the presence of these boards nullify the need for the playfield fuse? Could removing this bypass actually cause me any issues?

3. What is the risk / danger in operating machine with this fuse bypassed?

I appreciate anyones input on these questions! Thank you! Ready to Blastoff! ...Once I know I won’t start any fires.

<1> fuse kept blowing, they got it running (incorrectly)

<2> Reverse the bypass.... Alltek or not.

<3> Coils could lock on and burn up. Without the under playfield fuse, it's the 4a-7a fuse on the rectifier board protecting it. These don't blow until a coil and its driver are way shorted, depending on the coil.

Fix it right.... don't leave it hacked, Alltek protection or not.

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