(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,287 posts
  • 99 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by KurtisEBear
  • Topic is favorited by 56 Pinsiders

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There are 1287 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 26.
#1251 63 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Is it worth sending to someone like Chris to fix the board? But, if it costs $100 fix and the board is only worth $125 to sell, probably not worth the effort, right? Or, maybe I can try to fix myself.

Did you check the flipper enable relay? Perhaps it was holding only for a few seconds and that's why the flipps quit working.

#1252 63 days ago

No I did not. Was hoping for a miracle...plug and play.
I be repinning as next step. Don't wanna be chasing a ghost not knowing if I have solid contact or not.

#1253 63 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Is there a name for this? When the ball has places in the playfield where it can get “stuck”. If I try to get the ball off this spot by nudging the pin, it always ends up in a tilt. Has anyone else experienced this? How to fix? Angle the pin a bit in the lower to left?
[quoted image]

When my F2K was doing this I put some shim stock around the star post to move the rubber closer to the drops. A quick fix that works well.

#1254 62 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

No other solenoids work? need more details to pinpoint your problem but it's going to most likely be connector issues.

Yeah, if the drops are working, that indicates there is power coming from the 1 amp fuse to the yellow solenoid wire. Putting on my Joe Shadetree cap would have me running a jumper wire from one of the drop target assembles yellow wire over to a pop bumper and see if that changes the pop behavior.

#1255 60 days ago
Quoted from Sputnik:

When my F2K was doing this I put some shim stock around the star post to move the rubber closer to the drops. A quick fix that works well.

Looks like someone beat me to this. I think i may as well go with three.

444A4CA6-79A4-43C9-86D9-40A83DAB0965 (resized).jpeg
#1256 60 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Looks like someone beat me to this. I think i may as well go with three.
[quoted image]

Try wrapping some string in the groove of the post, then install the band over the string. This moves the band closer to the drops. A band above or below the groove will not contact the ball on it's centerline.

2 weeks later
#1257 45 days ago

Is the Flight 2000 supposed to have a metal channel in front of the neck for the playfield glass? Don't have one on mine and looking at some of the pictures in this thread I didn't notice one on others either. Noticed it when I was taking a closer look at the neck area.

#1258 45 days ago

Could you post a photo of the spot you're referring to, please?

#1259 45 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Could you post a photo of the spot you're referring to, please?

My game is at my parents place so I just grabbed one of the images online. All my other games seem to have a metal bar up there at the front of the neck area. Just wondered if Flight 2000 should have one too. Since I haven't seen any in pictures I'm thinking that it may not.

f2kneck (resized).jpg
#1260 45 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My game is at my parents place so I just grabbed one of the images online. All my other games seem to have a metal bar up there at the front of the neck area. Just wondered if Flight 2000 should have one too. Since I haven't seen any in pictures I'm thinking that it may not.
[quoted image]

Do you mean this metal bar? These were only on early Classic Sterns.

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#1261 45 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

Do you mean this metal bar? These were only on early Classic Sterns. [quoted image]

That's the one! Just wanted to find out if flight 2000 was supposed to have one or not. Mine doesn't.

#1262 45 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Is the Flight 2000 supposed to have a metal channel in front of the neck for the playfield glass?

Answer:
pasted_image (resized).png
Nope.

#1263 45 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Answer:
[quoted image]
Nope.

Thank you for the confirmation!

#1264 45 days ago

Mine also does not have one. Thought it was strange, so I checked my other F2K and yep, not there.

#1265 45 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Mine also does not have one. Thought it was strange, so I checked my other F2K and yep, not there.

The Hot Hand I had did not have those shiny bars going across the top. I don't know about Dracula or Memory Lane, but from Meteor and what came after there is just the piece of wood going across.

I figure Stern was looking to cut costs and that shiny piece did not add to game play.

#1266 44 days ago

I have only seen the glass support bar on Bally games.

#1267 44 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have only seen the glass support bar on Bally games.

Gottliebs have them as well.

#1268 44 days ago

My early Williams Blackout has a metal bar and I think my other games do too. That's why I though it was odd that Flight 2000 didn't have one and I thought someone may have removed and lost it.

I guess Stern didn't think it was needed and left it off.

#1269 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Gottliebs have them as well.

Its been a while since I owned any GTBs.

#1270 44 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My early Williams Blackout has a metal bar and I think my other games do too. That's why I though it was odd that Flight 2000 didn't have one and I thought someone may have removed and lost it.
I guess Stern didn't think it was needed and left it off.

O.K. One needs to go back in time...
When game manufactures are making money... they can afford to put quality into there products.
Top earning game manufactures from the 1970's --- early 1980's
#1 Bally, games made money they where on a role.
Close behind,
#2 Williams, same as above but they had a few stinkers.
#3 Gottlieb, they lost being top ranking game manufacturer and making what ever they can to stay afloat.
--- They were bought by Columbia Pictures and they put money into the company...
#4 Stern, they used like Bally system... but quality was crap... cost cutting everything.
#5 Game Plan, same as above...
List below, basically, have one it wonders.
#6 Zaccaria, made a quick splash... hard to get metric parts... odd displays...
#7 Atari.... some odd parts and odd system.
#8 All other odd manufacturers, cocktail tables etc.etc.etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Stern only has a hand full of really good games that made money.
They were broke... thus Seeberg manufacturing bought them out.
The entire coin op industry collapsed at the end of 1982.
Top three manufacturers above would survive... others bowed out and closed their doors.

#1271 42 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

#3 Gottlieb, they lost being top ranking game manufacturer and making what ever they can to stay afloat.
--- They were bought by Columbia Pictures and they put money into the company...
#4 Stern, they used like Bally system... but quality was crap... cost cutting everything.

So it looks like the metal bar ended @ #3, at least by example of the attached pic on a Gottlieb system 80, James Bond 007.

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1 week later
#1272 30 days ago

Hello all,
Just finishing up my F2K and have a flipper alignment question.
If I use the pins behind the flippers it doesn't look right.
Use pins, don't use pins, if not, why are they even there.
Thanks
Mark

IMG_20201216_183525415 (resized).jpg
#1273 30 days ago
Quoted from OCD_pinball:

If I use the pins behind the flippers it doesn't look right.
Use pins, don't use pins, if not, why are they even there.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I understand. The pins are useful as a reference, but the flippers don't actually rest against them. I made a little tool out of a coffee stirring straw which fits over the pin. I wrapped electricians tape around the straw until I got the diameter I wanted. Then I could tighten the pawl screws from underneath while holding the flipper against the tool.

I vaguely remember reading about the intent of the pins, but I can't find it in my documentation.

#1274 30 days ago

I try to align the front face of the flipper at the same angle as the inlane ball guide. But, yeah, the pins are weird.

#1275 30 days ago

Flippers on this game are meant to droop. If you’re don’t like how it plays, shift to inline with the lane guides and then see. Intended angle is the dropped flippers tbough. Makes the right drop target sweep easier and the middle shots more difficult

#1276 30 days ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Flippers on this game are meant to droop.

This ^^^

The pins are there as the reference point to align the flippers. When the flippers are down they should rest against the pins for optimum flipper angle. These Sterns are not intended to have the flippers aligned with the return lane guides like Williams machines.

There was a long discussion on this in the Stern club thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/78#post-5872885

#1277 29 days ago

Thank you all,
I'm gonna go DROOPY first and see how it plays.

#1278 29 days ago

Post your thoughts, please. I didn't droop mine and I kinda think it plays like shit. Been meaning to adjust them for a while now.

#1279 29 days ago

Interesting. I will try mine drooped and on the pins. I have found that having them aligned to the lane guides makes it harder to hit the ball walking mech.

#1280 29 days ago

So this week I broke another plastic on my F2K. I got my wife a laser cutter for her birthday so she can cut custom acrylic now. If I want to put a clear acrylic piece under the existing plastics so the new stronger acrylic takes all the hits should I make it the same size or just slightly wider? Anyone have any experience with that?

#1281 29 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

So this week I broke another plastic on my F2K. I got my wife a laser cutter for her birthday so she can cut custom acrylic now. If I want to put a clear acrylic piece under the existing plastics so the new stronger acrylic takes all the hits should I make it the same size or just slightly wider? Anyone have any experience with that?

Make it slightly wider so it can take first impact.

#1282 29 days ago

Yeah, that was my assumption. I just wasn't sure how much wider to go. I'm thinking of trying a quarter of an inch border.

#1283 29 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Yeah, that was my assumption. I just wasn't sure how much wider to go. I'm thinking of trying a quarter of an inch border.

1/4” will not hurt. 1/8” will probably work OK.

#1284 28 days ago

On the flipper alignment I have played a friends which is aligned with inland guides and mine which are drooped. Drooped is easier to hit the walker and right spinner for sure, though I do find it more difficult to hit the middle standup target. Overall I prefer drooped for this game.

#1285 22 days ago

Laser cut the sling protectors today. This video is sped up 5x. I wish it was this fast.


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2 weeks later
#1286 8 days ago

cool how much for a set?

1 week later
#1287 1 day ago

I just had the 3A SB Line In Fuse blow. I had a problem with the EOS lock shut on the right flipper. Coil burned up. Are the flippers on the circuit where the 3A SB fuse blew or do I have 2 separate issues?

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There are 1287 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 26.

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