Quoted from tyking:When I removed the apron to inspect the trough, i found a “restoration signature”. Is this a thing?
[quoted image]
I'd be interested to see what Chuckwebster actually meant by restored in this case - he certainly didn't clean under the apron there.
I suppose it's a thing if you're High End Pins....
Quoted from slochar:I'd be interested to see what chuckwebster actually meant by restored in this case - he certainly didn't clean under the apron there.
I suppose it's a thing if you're High End Pins....
Not every game is worthy of a $2K+ playfield restoration. Some restorations are just to keep a game from becoming firewood. Here are some before and after pictures. The after picture was before clearing so it doesn't have any gloss to it yet. Looks like the game the game has gotten a lot of use since 2014
1465823_710526152299181_493775878_o (resized).jpg1491480_717110934974036_499940818_o (resized).jpgQuoted from Chuckwebster:Not every game is worthy of a $2K+ playfield restoration. Some restorations are just to keep a game from becoming firewood. Here are some before and after pictures. The after picture was before clearing so it doesn't have any gloss to it yet. Looks like the game the game has gotten a lot of use since 2014
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good! Many times better than what you started with!
Quoted from Chuckwebster:couple more pictures- hope you're enjoying your F2k
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hell ya, so glad to know more about this pin’s history. It’s like an adopted kid getting reunited with his real parents. When I saw the signature under the apron, I figured that that restoration in 2014 was one that saved the pin’s life. On question though, were you the one who put the MPU J4-11 pin on J4-9 instead Just kidding! It’s playing awesome. Thanks for everything you did to keep the pin alive!
Quoted from tyking:Hell ya, so glad to know more about this pin’s history. It’s like an adopted kid getting reunited with his real parents. When I saw the signature under the apron, I figured that that restoration in 2014 was one that saved the pin’s life. On question though, were you the one who put the MPU J4-11 pin on J4-9 instead Just kidding! It’s playing awesome. Thanks for everything you did to keep the pin alive!
ha- its possible, but unlikely. i recall the game was working correctly When i had it. I didnt keep it too long. Mike Mcgourty purchased it from me and not sure who's had it after that. glad to hear its still working. It's original backglass is hanging on my wall (it's slightly better than the trashed playfield picture). Once Covid is over if you're ever down in the boston area you're welcome to come check out my place- i host the New England Pinball League on friday nights.
Hey chuckwebster... the playfield art restoration looks real nice. What was your method and materials?
Quoted from slochar:he certainly didn't clean under the apron there.
Certainly?
After seeing the restore pics...
My money is on: DID clean under the apron in 2014.
hahaha
-mof
Quoted from Chuckwebster:Not every game is worthy of a $2K+ playfield restoration. Some restorations are just to keep a game from becoming firewood. Here are some before and after pictures. The after picture was before clearing so it doesn't have any gloss to it yet. Looks like the game the game has gotten a lot of use since 2014
[quoted image][quoted image]
What a cool story. I did a high end resto on a F2K in 2011-12. I sold it to a guy in CO for big money and I never heard from the guy after that. Same with Bally Star Trek and a FG. I sold the FG to Don Margolis (spelling) who has since passed but he only kept it few like 2 weeks because he was always wheeling and dealing pins constantly. I did 3 EBD's, I know where 2 of them are. First resto was a Xenon, sold to Robert Winter and he kept it for a while and then sold it.
Quoted from clodpole:Hey chuckwebster... the playfield art restoration looks real nice. What was your method and materials?
Quoted from Chuckwebster:Once Covid is over if you're ever down in the boston area you're welcome to come check out my place- i host the New England Pinball League on friday nights.
Sweet, can’t wait.
I am just now discovering this thread and really enjoying what people are doing with their F2Ks! After seeing all of your playfields and restoration projects, it certainly makes me feel better about the condition of the F2K I picked up in March. I'm encouraged by everyone's work! If anyone's interested in following my very slow restoration process, you can track it here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-my-first-pin-1980-stern-flight-2000
OK, I have an odd error. When I start a game and the ball is in play for a few seconds, both flippers go dead. Then, when I play second ball, the flippers work and go off again after getting past pop bumpers.
Anyone every experience this and have and idea what's going on? Thanks.
Quoted from Navystan:OK, I have an odd error. When I start a game and the ball is in play for a few seconds, both flippers go dead. Then, when I play second ball, the flippers work and go off again after getting past pop bumpers.
Anyone every experience this and have and idea what's going on? Thanks.
Can you provide any more information?
Quoted from emsrph:Nothing blew up in my first playfield swap.
[quoted image]
Wow, nothing like a brand new playfield to make a pin play like new! Do the new playfields come with some sort of clear coating or do you have to that yourself once you get the playfield?
Quoted from tyking:Wow, nothing like a brand new playfield to make a pin play like new! Do the new playfields come with some sort of clear coating or do you have to that yourself once you get the playfield?
Yes, it had clear coat. CPR leftover purchased about a decade ago. Finally had the time to get this done!
Actually glad I didn’t start it too much sooner. So many great posts and tips by Pinsiders made this swap go well.
Hello everyone...
Long time listener...first time caller.
I recently picked up..you guessed it...a F2K.
When turned on it makes 1 beep then the 2nd beep never stops.
Your thoughts with my gratitude
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:Hello everyone...
Long time listener...first time caller.
I recently picked up..you guessed it...a F2K.
When turned on it makes 1 beep then the 2nd beep never stops.
Your thoughts with my gratitude
Welcome!
Check for corrosion damage to the MPU board. Can possibly be repaired or best course is replacement with an after market board.
Good resources here https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern
I still have a Brand New Plastic set from CPR I dont need. Save $25, $170 shipped.
Its the extended version with the extra plastic protectors for crawler.
Pm me if interested, and or pics.
I also have some very nice used plastics. See my ads.
Thanks
Eric
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:What does 1 beep mean.
Didn't see that in the Wiki page.
From here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm#flash , scroll way down to the "fakers guide" for a good flash explanation ( still a bit over my head but makes a bit of sense to me )
It sounds like you're getting the 2'nd flash but not the 3'rd as member emsrph suspects battery corrosion.
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:Oh yeah..battery corrosion for sure!!
Just gonna get a newer more up to date board.
Anybody got one for sale?!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Here's one replacement:
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:I ordered the alltak bundle...playing in 3-5 business days
I actually have Alltek in my F2K. I'm guessing your game will be a lot happier with the new boards.
Quoted from clodpole:Here's one replacement:
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
+1 and he has great prices...
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:I ordered the alltak bundle...playing in 3-5 business days
I would verify voltages at the power supply before installing the new boards. Don't wanna fry anything.
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:I ordered the alltak bundle...playing in 3-5 business days
Quoted from Lovef2k:I would verify voltages at the power supply before installing the new boards. Don't wanna fry anything.
Inspecting the trifuricon connector pins would be a good idea as well & the rejector pins
Quoted from chas10e:Inspecting the trifuricon connector pins would be a good idea as well & the rejector pins
Trifurcon pins were not original to Stern games then. They just had the standard single sides connectors, but yeah, never hurts to check connectors of this vintage.
Trifurcon pins only come in the .156 size. Once I did the 20 pin connector with all Trifurcon and the connector needed way too much force to install it w/o bending the board. So now I just use them on the heavy wires, high current such as GI or coil voltage.
Is there a name for this? When the ball has places in the playfield where it can get “stuck”. If I try to get the ball off this spot by nudging the pin, it always ends up in a tilt. Has anyone else experienced this? How to fix? Angle the pin a bit in the lower to left?
9C41B06B-21AF-44FE-82EF-109541074C74 (resized).jpegThat's called a ball trap. Make sure the game is level. Your drop targets may also be sitting a touch too low.
Quoted from Reaper802:That's called a ball trap. Make sure the game is level. Your drop targets may also be sitting a touch too low.
Ah, I see. Thanks for the suggestion.
I fixed that by gluing wedges on the "uphill" narrow edge of each drop target. If you look closely at the first pic, you can see the little wedge on the uphill side of each target. (I did my mod with the targets still in the game. It would've been a bit safer to take them out and do the gluing on a workbench.)
I made 'em out of hobby shop plastic stock, which I only found in square cross-section, so I filed it to wedge shape. Now, when the ball hits there it rolls back out. The wedges don't interfere with drop target function.
IMG_0274 (resized).JPGIMG_0278 (resized).JPGQuoted from tyking:Is there a name for this? When the ball has places in the playfield where it can get “stuck”. If I try to get the ball off this spot by nudging the pin, it always ends up in a tilt. Has anyone else experienced this? How to fix? Angle the pin a bit in the lower to left?
[quoted image]
Mine did that , my first solution was to run a bead of hotmelt glue across top of each target and worked for a good while. (well over a year & 1,000 plays)
Finally one of them came off and ball got trapped again. The location where I have my F2k had some wide and long wooden tongue depressors that I place below all 3 drops under playfield lifting them up slightly and worked pretty good when I left it anyways.
I don't think I have any pics of either solution (**cough** -hack- **cough**)
Quoted from clodpole:I fixed that by gluing wedges on the "uphill" narrow edge of each drop target. If you look closely at the first pic, you can see the little wedge on the uphill side of each target. (I did my mod with the targets still in the game. It would've been a bit safer to take them out and do the gluing on a workbench.)
I made 'em out of hobby shop plastic stock, which I only found in square cross-section, so I filed it to wedge shape. Now, when the ball hits there it rolls back out. The wedges don't interfere with drop target function.[quoted image][quoted image]
This seems like a more durable & elegant solution
Quoted from clodpole:I fixed that by gluing wedges on the "uphill" narrow edge of each drop target. If you look closely at the first pic, you can see the little wedge on the uphill side of each target. (I did my mod with the targets still in the game. It would've been a bit safer to take them out and do the gluing on a workbench.)
I made 'em out of hobby shop plastic stock, which I only found in square cross-section, so I filed it to wedge shape. Now, when the ball hits there it rolls back out. The wedges don't interfere with drop target function.[quoted image][quoted image]
Great minds think alike.
Quoted from cottonm4:Great minds think alike.
Possibly NuWay root beer facilitates clever thinking?
Well, found my problem. I was getting odd things happening with flippers. Shortly after plunging ball, flippers would stop working. They first work, and then stop working, both at the same time. Previous owner added new Altek boards for CPU and light and NOS driver board. Turned out the NOS driver board went bad. I fortunately had a spare Altek driver board. Popped it in and all is well. Is it worth trying to get NOS driver board fixed and selling or just pitch it?
The old board would be definitely fixable, and still have some value in it's currently broken state.
Quoted from Navystan:Well, found my problem. I was getting odd things happening with flippers. Shortly after plunging ball, flippers would stop working. They first work, and then stop working, both at the same time. Previous owner added new Altek boards for CPU and light and NOS driver board. Turned out the NOS driver board went bad. I fortunately had a spare Altek driver board. Popped it in and all is well. Is it worth trying to get NOS driver board fixed and selling or just pitch it?
I assume you are talking an NOS Stern driver board? Maybe your relay went bad? You can replace that. But I don't know how to trouble shoot for that.
Somebody here will know.
Quoted from cottonm4:I assume you are talking an NOS Stern driver board? Maybe your relay went bad? You can replace that. But I don't know how to trouble shoot for that.
Somebody here will know.
Is it worth sending to someone like Chris to fix the board? But, if it costs $100 fix and the board is only worth $125 to sell, probably not worth the effort, right? Or, maybe I can try to fix myself.
Quoted from Navystan:Is it worth sending to someone like Chris to fix the board? But, if it costs $100 fix and the board is only worth $125 to sell, probably not worth the effort, right? Or, maybe I can try to fix myself.
If you could do the trouble shooting yourself, I imagine the repair would be easy enough. But if you have to pay somebody, then Alltek is your only logical choice. But I would not throw the board away. It might have some value to someone who can figure it out.
Coming from the camp of "throw nothing away", trading material, maybe.
Plus you can order an Alltek today and be up and running in less than a week, depending on the shipper.
Quoted from Navystan:Is it worth sending to someone like Chris to fix the board? But, if it costs $100 fix and the board is only worth $125 to sell, probably not worth the effort, right? Or, maybe I can try to fix myself.
Unless you have a lot of burned up traces on the board they are worth fixing and are usually less than $100 to repair. Once gone over (and the updates applied / Jumpers on back of board) they are solid boards. I prefer clean updated original boards in these and running originals in all my games.
I've only had one Alltek MPU board. It was a nice board and I'm keeping it as a test board but went original MPU's so I can run the alternate code if I want.
I replaced all the boards with Alltek (mpu/solenoid/light).
When it powers up it stays in test mode. I have the game dipswitch set to 01010000.
The speech sounds every third beep.
Thoughts?
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:I replaced all the boards with Alltek (mpu/solenoid/light).
When it powers up it stays in test mode. I have the game dipswitch set to 01010000.
The speech sounds every third beep.
Thoughts?
On the MPU, in the upper left corner ( I believe) you will see two sets of jumper pins. They install one way for Bally and a different way for Stern. It is in your instructions and is easy to overlook. Make sure the jumpers are set correctly or you will have problems.
If that does not fix your problem, then I am at a loss.
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:When it powers up it stays in test mode.
When all the 32 DIP switches on the MPU board are set to "off", the game will boot up into factory burn in test mode.
Go through the Flight 2000 manual and configure the game play settings via those 4 banks of 8 DIP switches on the MPU board as you desire. You need to move at least one of those switches to the "on" position.
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:I reseated the plugs and now it start a game but the only thing that works on playfield are the drop targets.
No playfield switches work? No other solenoids work? need more details to pinpoint your problem but it's going to most likely be connector issues. Did you re-terminate the connectors in this game when you replaced all the boards?
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