Nothing happens. I do have the manual.

Nevermind, I took the switch out of the bracket to inspect it and the self test started, without me pressing the button. but now, im not sure whats going on because the self test seems to be stuck in a repetitive endless sequence or two.

This is what I got:

pasted_imageSelf-Test Reading 01 00 02 00 03 00 04 7,886,960 05 24 06 2,227 07 6,613 08 10 09 00 10 433 11

Did you have to turn game off to stop the self test sequence? Page 2 of manual explains the self test. Number 1 is burn im test. This cycles through everything, lamps,displays, coils, speech and sound. I believe it cycle continuously until pressing test button a second time. Press 2 is lamps only. Press 3 is displays only. Press 4 is coils only and press 5 is the switch test. To do this you must remove all balls and be sure all drop targets are reset. The match display will have a flashing a 0 if all switches are open which is what you want to see. If there is a number in there then a switch is closed either electronically or physically. Go to the switch ID chart and see which switch is closed. If more than 1 switch is closed, the display starts with the highest number first and as you eliminate a closed switch then it drops to the next lowest number.

To test if a switch is working then you just manually closed the switch and see if that number comes on the diaplay. Using the ball to activate a switch is ideal to ensure the switch actually works when playing.

The test numbers after the 5th are for free game settings and audits.

Hey guys, I'm having trouble wiring in new drop target switches if anyone can help me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-wiring-help-needed-please#post-5888442

I am looking for a lift bar for the large drop target if anyone knows of one.
I finally got my F2K to boot after maybe a year of getting frustrated and walking away multiplr times. Now that it is working again I am sorting through other issues. Looking forward to playing this again.

Can't help you there, my snapped bar has been held on with zip ties for almost 30 years.

Two options:

1) Find a 3-target assembly. Take the lift bar from that and head to the local welder and have the bar “stretched”.

2) Have a weld/sheet metal shop make you one. Not cheap, I imagine, but if you have no other luck....

Both sides of my big target bank were busted too. One side was zip tied and the other had a cludge repair that worked fairly well.

I removed the zip tie and did something similar using the mounting tab from a long bayonet socket as a strap. Only metal-ish item I had in my junk pile that was bendable. Subsequently saw a tip in a past post by cottonm4 about the usefulness of reusing crappy socket mounting tabs!

So far it is holding pretty well.

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Tomass, Steve at The Pinball Resource might have that bar. 845-473-7114

Thanks guys. I will call pbr if I can find a part number. I have one that is the same length but it is another mfg. I can prob cut and drill it to work if I don't find one.
Also I am currently having a solenoid issue. Onle 1 pop is firing, and it fires when either pop is hit. Same with the slings. Either one gets hit and only the one activates. Also the drop targets are not resetting. I will be digging into this tonight but open to hearing thoughts on what would cause this.

Probably a diode.

So would that likely be a diode on a coil?

OK, I'm in the club, thanks to another F2K guy, kind enough to sell to me.

As he said, it's a "survivor" and looks close to maybe being HUO. So, I have a few questions and requests:

1. Left flipper was sticking up. I filed down a bit the flipper leafs. That seemed to help, but now sticking just a little. File down some more or maybe buy a new flipper leaf?
2. I have one display out and one "wonky." Anyone have a couple displays for sale? I had a spare 6 digit Pinscore display and put in game/match slot. Works OK, but part of right digit is hidden. Are there any LED sets that work better?

Thanks.

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Very nice condition! Do you think the flipper leaf switch blades are touching when the flipper button is not pressed? Have you tried to adjust the gap on the blades to open up a little? Do this with the power off.

Try moving displays to different player positions to see if problem moves or stays with the display. Could be connector or display header pins need resoldering.

As long as the display glass is ok then your displays can be repaired. As someone already mentioned one of the most common issues is cracked solder joints on the header connector where the plug goes. They can also crack on the pads going to the glass. That will fix a lot of Issues. I had to do that on mine. May also have open resistors, bad transistors, or bad decoder IC on the board. All those are fixable.

Well, after doing the research, I think I'm going with a set of LED displays.

Anyone have experience one which work best with F2K? I had a spare 6-digit Pinscore and tested in credit area. Slightly hidden by back glass. I kind of like XPIN for the color options. I was thinking of using blue which ties into the overall blue color of F2K. Anyone have success using any LED displays?

Go yellow, with yellow rubbers and flippers, and post the pics. Please!

My daughter, 12 at the time posted on YouTube her playing my first f2k.

That first ball was great!

Thank you to everyone who helped me out trying to get the speech working on my pin. Finally fixed it today, as I worked through the steps discussed in another thread on the topic. Here are the before and after photos of the fix. Turned out I just had to move the wire from pin 9 to 11.

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I may need to look through that thread. I only get some speech and I am going to dig into it soon.

There are a couple. This is one that goes deep into the weeds on troubleshooting everything around the speech chip and then some.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-no-speech

I was actually following your thread on the voltages, just to see what kind of readings i was getting compared to yours. Thanks.

Thanks for the link!
I am glad to have my game running again at least. It has been on the back burner for a long time while digging into other games.

It’s funny how adding just that little bit of voice ramps up the experience so much. At least for me.

Trying to figure out if some ball trough issues I’ve been having are known issues.

First, kind of coinciding with a reset after multi-ball, two balls will be shot out of the trough. It is a quick sequential - shot - shot - and the two balls end up in the plunger lane. When this happens, if you shoot both balls, the first one that drains does not stop play or reset or do anything, but the second ball that drains is recognized as a drain.

Second, the ball will sometimes sit on the 1st wire from the plunger and not fall into the —-[not sure what it is called] place where it sits before it gets ejected into the plunger lane. If you don’t notice this, you can hit a ball into the walker and end up losing a turn, because you will notice the ball still sitting on the wire, and then jostle the pin so it advances, which the pin recognizes as a drain.

Are these known issues for F2K? Thanks

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F2K Trivia (trick question): Why does the pin use the word “stand” in test mode, when it never says the word during gameplay?

Try coining up additional players.

That’s it! It was cool to hear it not expecting it. I was so proud, for a quick second I had this sense that the pin had just learned to say something new.

I don’t know about the double serve but may be related to the second problem. You need to adjust the switches so the ball doesn’t hang up on the first wire and all the switches register.

With the game off you can hear the click of the switch and/or measure with your meter that each switch closes when a ball rolls over the wire.

I'm with emsrph on this. The left trip wire looks bad. It should look more like the right trip wire, nice and straight but pointing on a slight angle. Try to straighten it and see if anything improves. If the trip wires on the micro switches are not in sync, the mpu will lose track of the balls. If no change, with game in attract mode, remove all balls and reset drop targets. Press the self test button 5 times waiting about 1 second between presses. This will put you in the switch test mode. The best result is that you will see a flashing 0 in the match/ball display. Go to the switch ID chart to find the corresponding numbers to the trough switches. If you have the flashing 0 then you can test the trough switches by manually closing each switch one at time. If there is a number in the display, you need to ID that switch and see why it is registering as a closed switch. The switch ID chart is the far left column of the large "self test display numbers" stapled to the right side in cabinet.

So if starting with a 0 in the display, close the left trip wire, you should get 33 in the display. Then right trip wire will be 34. Place a ball in the hole to the right of the right trip wire and you should see 35. If any of these 3 numbers appear in the display when first entering switch test mode, then one of these switches is either stuck or bad. Report back to the group with your results please.

Oh and "stand" in self test? Possibly a glitch or fluke in sound rom.

If your self test display numbers chart is missing, I can send you a copy to replace it. I have all the cards and labels for F2K reproduced.

The stock software makes does a lot of tracking of where the balls are and makes some (primitive) error correction. Since there are no switches in the walker other than the entry, it has to do this. You need to fix your trough area so the ball always falls into the ejector. Looks like there's some wear there on the PF and a small wood divot would cause this. One of the things that happens when the eject mech fires is that the other balls if any in the trough get tossed backwards - sometimes reactivating the other switches. The software does compensate for this to an extent (there is a delay there) - but if the ball hangs out there too long, it will put another ball into the shooter lane. Once the 2 balls are there the game cannot track them correctly unless you manage to start the multiball and drain all of them.

Hey, down to the last issue.

I did have the ball trough kicking out 2 balls like many other people. I found it to be my cabinet was unlevel and the balls were rolling too slowly across the ball trough switches. That has been fixed now.

Now I've got a weird one. When I boot the game, if there is a ball in the ball lock area, it will sense a missing ball in the ball trough area and kick the ball lock until it finds it.

However, if you are playing a game and you game over with a ball still in the ball lock area, when you start a new game, the ball in the ball lock stays there and the 2 in the ball trough stay there and it just sits.

I checked the switch test and the ball trough switches all register. I did find it interesting that when a ball is on Switch 33 (this is the right hand ball trough switch closest to the shooter lane), it won't register the other two switches 34 and 35. When no ball is in 33, the other two work fine.

Looks like this person had the same issue. Look at #2. The only comment on it said "This is normal" which makes no sense because then you can't play two games back to back without turning it on or off.

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Locked balls do not clear between games. This is normal operation.

But when I start another game with a ball in the ball lock nothing happens. No ball shoots into the shooter lane. You just get flashing lights, 00 on the score and you can hit the flipper buttons. Thsts all.

Maybe a video will make more sense. I've always been bad at describing

Some kind of switch problem. On boot it should clear balls as you have shown before finishing the boot cycle. In between games, balls in the lock stay in the lock.

What happens if you start a two player game, lock a ball as player 1 and then drain moving to player two? Does it kick a ball out or does it hang like above?

Good question let me try

Here's a video of trying out a two player game

Yeah that's strange. All I can tell you is that it is normal for it not to clear locks in between games, only on power cycles.

Are you still thinking its a switch issue? I think of the switches are acting in 2 of the 3 scenarios it has to be a setting or something

Does the built in switch test show each of the ball lock switches are working?

I actually just made a video of that.

Now when you say each of the ball lock switches, I'm assuming you mean ball trough switches because my ball lock only has the one switch at the top.

But here is a video of my ball trough in switch test.

Upon closer inspection, i.e. after removing the apron I saw some build up of clear that may have been holding the ball up on the switch wire, and not letting it advance by rolling into the hole. I cleared it up. I am going to see if that works before I start messing with the switches.

This sounds like what may be happening. Hopefully cleaning up the clear coat build up will also prevent the ball from holding up on the switch for too long when it gets bumped back, when the ball in front of it ejects.

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