(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by chas10e
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There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 47.
#1101 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, it was a typo. It goes to the lamp driver board at J4

Your attached picture is of the switch matrix on the playfield. While by coincidence it might share some same wire colors, they have nothing to do with the signals to the lamp driver board/VSU.
Unfortunately Stern didn't mark the wire colors for the VSU/lamp driver board signals you're looking for.
The only info there is, is the wiring diagram page that tells you where the wire locations from the lamp driver board J4 come from. So you'll have to check the code next to the J4 connector that tells you which board/connector/pin the wires come from.
See below:
A2 = the Power Rectifier board
A3 = the Solenoid Driver board
A4 = the MPU board
A5 = the Lamp Driver board
[quoted image]

so do i just look around in the schematic for anything that goes to "J1/J2" on the speech board, and check the wire color for the corresponding pin on another board? If so, is there a page in particular? I really dont want to plug another pin into the housing unless i know that it is the right pin.

#1102 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Got it. Turns out it wasn’t the tool.
Now I need to combine some knowledge. I’m dive back into the schematic to see if I can confirm that the White-Red wire connects to the #1 pin on the J2 on the VSU-1000. And confirm its function, where it leads.
I will install the pin in the housing and attach the pin head strip, and test it for continuity. If it tests okay then I can move onto the next pin. This way I don’t install a whole group of pins wrong and find out at the end. Does that make sense?
[quoted image][quoted image]

https://i1.pinside.com/4/6c/46c9fadd682827af05c8e0b617bdadd28850c3c0/resized/740/46c9fadd682827af05c8e0b617bdadd28850c3c0.jpeg.jpg

the "strain relief" on the trifuricon pin for the white/red isn't crimped correctly, the HD225 WILL crimp both the conductor and around the insulation (for the strain relief) at the same time

Called the insulation crimp in this article: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

EDIT: ... or maybe it is .... kinda hard to tell my eyesight is bad

#1103 3 years ago

Anyone have a CPR playfield for sale or know where I can get one?

Thanks.

#1104 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, it was a typo. It goes to the lamp driver board at J4
The only info there is, is the wiring diagram page that tells you where the wire locations from the lamp driver board J4 come from. So you'll have to check the code next to the J4 connector that tells you which board/connector/pin the wires come from.
[quoted image]

Now I get it. I will start there. Thanks.

#1105 3 years ago
Quoted from chas10e:

https://i1.pinside.com/4/6c/46c9fadd682827af05c8e0b617bdadd28850c3c0/resized/740/46c9fadd682827af05c8e0b617bdadd28850c3c0.jpeg.jpg
the "strain relief" on the trifuricon pin for the white/red isn't crimped correctly, the HD225 WILL crimp both the conductor and around the insulation (for the strain relief) at the same time
Called the insulation crimp in this article: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/
EDIT: ... or maybe it is .... kinda hard to tell my eyesight is bad

It wasn’t. I was using the smaller wire gauge part of the crimper, and when I went to connect the pin into the housing it snapped off where it was crimped.

#1106 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Now I get it. I will start there. Thanks.

Just incase it wasn't obvious/mentioned, the 17 pin connector with the multi colored wires is originally part of the generic backbox harness that connects to the J4 connector on the lamp driver board.
When Stern designed the VSU-100 speech board, they piggy backed it off the signals to the lamp driver board. So now, that multicolored wire 17 pin connector hooks up the the VSU-100 board and the 17 pin ribbon cable passes the signals to the lamp driver board.

i.e. you can plug that multicolored wire connector directly onto the lamp driver board J4 connector and the feature lamps will work (if you ever need to bypass the VSU-100 speech board for whatever reason).

#1107 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

do you mean jumper cable from J2 to lamp driver input J4?

Yeah, I forgot that the input wasn't J1 on the lamp driver.

Quoted from tyking:

How do I test this? I assume I have to turn on the machine, set the multimeter meter setting to something useful, and then put one of the wires on a ground, and one on the pinhead, and then I know that current is getting through the housing. Is this right? What setting do I use?

No, not at all. You'd put the meter in continuity check, machine off, connectors off, one meter lead on the pin you're not sure where it goes 100%, the other end will probe the connector in the wiring diagram chart (the one with the 4 boards' connectors shown that shows what pin goes to what). You might have to put a header pin into the connector as most meter probes aren't small enough to go into it.

For instance, on the wiring diagram page, J4 on the lamp driver (which is the same as the J1/J2 on the voice board), pin 1 comes from A2J3-4 which means that wire is from A2, the transformer rectifier board; connector J3, cabinet; pin 4. So your 'known end' of that wire is the a2j3-4. You're double checking the connection from the known end to your unknown hanging wire.

#1108 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Just incase it wasn't obvious/mentioned, the 17 pin connector with the multi colored wires is originally part of the generic backbox harness that connects to the J4 connector on the lamp driver board.
When Stern designed the VSU-100 speech board, they piggy backed it off the signals to the lamp driver board. So now, that multicolored wire 17 pin connector hooks up the the VSU-100 board and the 17 pin ribbon cable passes the signals to the lamp driver board.
i.e. you can plug that multicolored wire connector directly onto the lamp driver board J4 connector and the feature lamps will work (if you ever need to bypass the VSU-100 speech board for whatever reason).

Such a fabled connector, it should have its own chart:

Board/Location Pin # Wire Color - Actual Wire Color - Schematic Schematic Location
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 1 W-R W-R Rectifier - A2J3-4
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 2 R-B R-B Rectifier - A2J3-3
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 3 B-G R-B SDB - A3 -J3-16
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 4 O-G B on W MPU - A4J1-19
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 5 O-R O-G(orBr) MPU - A4J1-18
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 6 Br on W Br on W MPU - A4J1-17
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 7 Br-Y Br-Y MPU - A4J1-16
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 8 Key 8
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 9 N/u 9
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 10 N/u 10
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 11 W-B W-B Rectifier - A2J2?-14
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 12 G "spare"
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 13 O/pink-W O/pink-W MPU - A4J1-11
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 14 Y-B Y-B MPU - A4J1-15
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 15 R on Y R o Y MPU - A4J1-14
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 16 Light G-W G-W MPU - A4J1-13
VSU-100 - "J1/J2" 17 G-B G-B MPU - A4J1-12

so i happened to have photos of the connector before, i was able to double check that way with the schematic. but i am left with 3, 4, and 5, somewhat mysterious (i think 5 might match but I just am confusing the dash color on an O wire. But 3 and 4 definitely didn't match. I will check again, but I swear i tripled checked already. Since my machine was not using speech, i do not want to assume that the wiring before was correct. But i don't have a second R-B to plug into 3 anyway, nor is there a B on W wire to go onto 4 where the O-G was. I'm so far in the weeds right now I think I found a typo in the schematic where it references A2J2-14. It should be A2J3-14, b/c there are not 14 pins on J2 on that board.

I assuming I should just go with the original configuration of 3 and 4 since I would not have any other option anyway.

#1109 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Such a fabled connector, it should have its own chart:

Nice work.

Quoted from tyking:

I think I found a typo in the schematic where it references A2J2-14. It should be A2J3-14, b/c there are not 14 pins on J2 on that board.

You are 100% correct - another Stern manual/schematic error. LDB J4 pin 11 (A5J4-11) comes from A2J3-14.

These are the LDB J4 wire colors from a late Stern MPU-100 game: Only one a little different to yours is pin 13.

J4-01 White-Red
J4-02 Red-Black
J4-03 Black-Green
J4-04 Orange-Green
J4-05 Orange-Red
J4-06 Brown-White
J4-07 Brown-Yellow
J4-08 - key
J4-09 -
J4-10 -
J4-11 White-Black
J4-12 -
J4-13 Orange-White
J4-14 Yellow-Blue
J4-15 Red-Yellow
J4-16 Green-White
J4-17 Green-Black

#1110 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Nice work.

You are 100% correct - another Stern manual/schematic error. LDB J4 pin 11 (A5J4-11) comes from A2J3-14.
These are the LDB J4 wire colors from a late Stern MPU-100 game: Only one a little different to yours is pin 13.
J4-01 White-Red
J4-02 Red-Black
J4-03 Black-Green
J4-04 Orange-Green
J4-05 Orange-Red
J4-06 Brown-White
J4-07 Brown-Yellow
J4-08 - key
J4-09 -
J4-10 -
J4-11 White-Black
J4-12 -
J4-13 Orange-White
J4-14 Yellow-Blue
J4-15 Red-Yellow
J4-16 Green-White
J4-17 Green-Black

So I finally got the connectors crimped, and the machine is running again, like a champ. Has to put it at J2, b/c it is 20 pin housing and doesn’t fit at J1.

The reason I redid the connector housing was the #12 pin, which is a green wire on mine, and now that I have looked into the schematics it is not clear where that wire even goes. I might probe around with the testing that slochar explained.

So it did not fix the speech.

#1111 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

So I finally got the connectors crimped, and the machine is running again, like a champ. Has to put it at J2, b/c it is 20 pin housing and doesn’t fit at J1.
The reason I redid the connector housing was the #12 pin, which is a green wire on mine, and now that I have looked into the schematics it is not clear where that wire even goes. I might probe around with the testing that slochar explained.
So it did not fix the speech.

Here it is. Some good crimps, some not so good crimps.

D5FE6682-C8A4-46B9-BD0B-F1DD071CAEC8 (resized).jpegD5FE6682-C8A4-46B9-BD0B-F1DD071CAEC8 (resized).jpeg
#1112 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I am the one who did the spinner repair by drilling the hole and shoving in a piece of piano wire.
You need some jeweler's size drill bits.
Your link from Marco says they are in stock. $8.95 today is not a bad price.
NOS spinners for a Stern? Best laugh I have had today. Steve at PBR used to have some until someone came in and "cleaned me out".
Steve at PBR has some but you will not like the price.
[quoted image]

I got the spinner installed too. With the decal, it looks just fine alongside the old one.

52436382-F077-45BF-B511-5E5C763AE6E6 (resized).jpeg52436382-F077-45BF-B511-5E5C763AE6E6 (resized).jpegAAD479B0-8714-4674-8BCB-0B4A59042B8A (resized).jpegAAD479B0-8714-4674-8BCB-0B4A59042B8A (resized).jpeg
#1113 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

So I finally got the connectors crimped, and the machine is running again, like a champ. Has to put it at J2, b/c it is 20 pin housing and doesn’t fit at J1.

Cool.
If a new connector housing is too long I normally cut the excess off with a blade to make it the right length.

#1114 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Cool.
If a new connector housing is too long I normally cut the excess off with a blade to make it the right length.

And using a blocking key is a must to avoid plugging in off a pin or upside down.

#1115 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I got the spinner installed too. With the decal, it looks just fine alongside the old one.

What's the story with the spinner text saying "1000 spin", "1500 spin" etc? Is that factory? Usually it's just the numbers.

#1116 3 years ago

Anyone on leads for a CPR playfield? Either you have one or know someone that might want to sell/trade? I have a CPR Shadow playfield/mini playfield/plastics I would offer to trade or pay cash.

#1117 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

What's the story with the spinner text saying "1000 spin", "1500 spin" etc? Is that factory? Usually it's just the numbers.

I never saw one like that and I have had 4 of these so far. I noticed another difference from his to mine. The lettering on mine is white below those inserts and in front of the 1 to 5 drops. Plus the 1st and 3rd.line on mine are underlined.

Must different supplier or early version. Possibly a prototype?

#1118 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I got the spinner installed too. With the decal, it looks just fine alongside the old one.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just curious what is the serial number on cab? Front left of coin door usually 4 numbers stamped in the wood.

#1119 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I never saw one like that and I have had 4 of these so far. I noticed another difference from his to mine. The lettering on mine is white below those inserts and in front of the 1 to 5 drops. Plus the 1st and 3rd.line on mine are underlined.
Must different supplier or early version. Possibly a prototype?

Here is mine.

IMG_4644 (resized).JPGIMG_4644 (resized).JPG

IMG_4643 (resized).JPGIMG_4643 (resized).JPG

#1120 3 years ago

Funny - some times they seem to have just grabbed what was handy and installed it to move the game along. We got a Flash whose only service was at a university arcade. Yet, it was delivered new with Canadian coin mechs in it. Not to mention the "Williams" plate on the coin door was held in place from behind with an Austrian plastic coin insertion plate.

#1121 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is mine.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I'm surprised that this didn't come up when cpr did the repro. I know there's an earlier version that has a different out hole mechanism and some guys had to convert to the newer out hole parts. I think there were too many issues with the earlier type.

#1122 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is mine.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

You are missing the thick style washers that fit under the plastic
behind the D/T.

#1123 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You are missing the thick style washers that fit under the plastic
behind the D/T.

Interested in knowing what those are.

Plus where do these 3 CPR repro plastic pieces go? Just don’t tell me they are the first to go on under everything on the playfield!

2C31F014-0E98-4073-9816-C04D6224E5A3 (resized).png2C31F014-0E98-4073-9816-C04D6224E5A3 (resized).png
#1124 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Interested in knowing what those are.
Plus where do these 3 CPR repro plastic pieces go? Just don’t tell me they are the first to go on under everything on the playfield!
[quoted image]

See the photos above of tyking's game - those pieces sit on top of the plastics behind the 5-4-3-2-1 drop targets. They help keep your plastics from getting busted up with the hard ball hits those targets take.

#1125 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

What's the story with the spinner text saying "1000 spin", "1500 spin" etc? Is that factory? Usually it's just the numbers.

I got the pin with the playfield heavily doctored with touch ups, nothing too distracting. The more I see other pins the more I notice...

#1126 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

See the photos above of tyking's game - those pieces sit on top of the plastics behind the 5-4-3-2-1 drop targets. They help keep your plastics from getting busted up with the hard ball hits those targets take.

Thank you @clodpole, never knew that. Didn't have those on either of my F2Ks and didn't notice those before.

#1127 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

And using a blocking key is a must to avoid plugging in off a pin or upside down.

I noticed the blocking key protrudes out of the housing, preventing the housing from sitting flush with the strip, when you push it on all the way. so I took it off.

#1128 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I noticed the blocking key protrudes out of the housing, preventing the housing from sitting flush with the strip, when you push it on all the way. so I took it off.

The key shouldn't make the connector stick out too much and prevents a mistake in plugging it in.

Back on post #1111 it looks like your J1 connector to your VSU-100 is plugged in wrong?

Added over 3 years ago:

Edit - I was referring to the small brownish connector. It is probably J3 and not J1?

#1129 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I noticed the blocking key protrudes out of the housing, preventing the housing from sitting flush with the strip, when you push it on all the way. so I took it off.

Those keys do make your connector be spaced away a little bit. That will hurt nothing. Call it part of the engineering design. What hurts is when you remove the key and plug the connector in upside down.

#1130 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

The key shouldn't make the connector stick out too much and prevents a mistake in plugging it in.
Back on post #1111 it looks like your J1 connector to your VSU-100 is plugged in wrong?

Okay thanks, I had spent so much time with those tiny .100 trifucons, I was feeling like every little millimeter was extremely important. I’ll recheck the J1.

#1131 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Okay thanks, I had spent so much time with those tiny .100 trifucons, I was feeling like every little millimeter was extremely important. I’ll recheck the J1.

When I plug them in I tip the connector slightly so I can see if the first pin is going in the first hole. If the male and female connectors have the same number of pins the edges should line up. This looks like it is off by one pin:

BD5327EF-00EB-48ED-AF0E-3E02F7174A31 (resized).pngBD5327EF-00EB-48ED-AF0E-3E02F7174A31 (resized).png
#1132 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I had spent so much time with those tiny .100 trifucons

I was not aware that trifucons were made in the .100 size. Where can I buy some of those?

Thanks.

#1133 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was not aware that trifucons were made in the .100 size. Where can I buy some of those?
Thanks.

They came in this kit: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY-MPU

Maybe their are not actually trifucons, but they looks very similar. I will send the actual label for that individual part, when I get back to the pin.

#1134 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

They came in this kit: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY-MPU
Maybe their are not actually trifucons, but they looks very similar. I will send the actual label for that individual part, when I get back to the pin.

They are not. Trifurcon connectors connect to 3 sides of the square pins. I have only seen them in the .156 size.

#1135 3 years ago

Those are .156 connectors.

#1136 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Those are .156 connectors.

Oh I thought he was still working on the vsu connectors

#1137 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Oh I thought he was still working on the vsu connectors

He was/is, but the link definitely shows .156 connectors.

I can't imagine that .100 could have trifurcon at all, there's just no real estate there for it.

I don't recommend .156 trifurcon on the 20 pins connectors especially the display ones. Impossible to get off. Other connectors sure but it's usually whatever pin baggie I find/grab first.

#1138 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

They are not. Trifurcon connectors connect to 3 sides of the square pins. I have only seen them in the .156 size.

correction. They are Trifurcon connectors. I usually only use them on the heavier wires or higher current circuits such as GI or coils. I once did the 20 pin connector in all trifurcon and the first time inserting the connector to the board was difficult. It needed extra force to fully seat the housing which caused the board to bend more than I was comfortable with.

#1139 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

correction. They are Trifurcon connectors. I usually only use them on the heavier wires or higher current circuits such as GI or coils. I once did the 20 pin connector in all trifurcon and the first time inserting the connector to the board was difficult. It needed extra force to fully seat the housing which caused the board to bend more than I was comfortable with.

It’s this tiny one. I couldn’t find the label , but it’s smaller than the .156.

E4067F7C-32EA-4A80-90D1-E81CC0CD2976 (resized).jpegE4067F7C-32EA-4A80-90D1-E81CC0CD2976 (resized).jpeg
#1140 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Just curious what is the serial number on cab? Front left of coin door usually 4 numbers stamped in the wood.

This looks like it.

AB841AD7-9373-4C46-BBCE-0A79F5D65EE0 (resized).jpegAB841AD7-9373-4C46-BBCE-0A79F5D65EE0 (resized).jpeg
#1141 3 years ago

I see the confusion now. The Marco listing you posted seems incorrect. It says for dash 17 or 35 which is the mpu but the items shown look like power supply connectors which are .156. The one you are working on on speech board are .100 and not Trifurcon.

The serial number u have is midstream production so I don't believe you have an early game. Unless the cab is a different number. Look on left front of cab.

#1142 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I got the spinner installed too. With the decal, it looks just fine alongside the old one.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I guess it’s true that they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Is this a gorilla glue fix, or can I solder the plates back together? What do you think? Thanks in advance.

0B3D9D74-003B-4B48-826F-7481E625A8AD (resized).jpeg0B3D9D74-003B-4B48-826F-7481E625A8AD (resized).jpegA830A738-96BD-4917-B491-CF8E48563DFB (resized).jpegA830A738-96BD-4917-B491-CF8E48563DFB (resized).jpeg
#1143 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I guess it’s true that they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Is this a gorilla glue fix, or can I solder the plates back together? What do you think? Thanks in advance.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Spot weld - repaint - redecal.

#1144 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Spot weld - repaint - redecal.

do I need a particular spot welding tool?

#1145 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

I guess it’s true that they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Is this a gorilla glue fix, or can I solder the plates back together? What do you think? Thanks in advance.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have been wanting to see inside of a spinner for some time now. Would you be interested in trading for one that is still in one piece? I sent you a PM.

#1146 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

i.e. you can plug that multicolored wire connector directly onto the lamp driver board J4 connector and the feature lamps will work (if you ever need to bypass the VSU-100 speech board for whatever reason).

Yes indeed, I took the VSU-100 out to give it a thorough testing, and I connected the J1/J2 to the LDB and left J3 just hanging loose, and it still plays the same.

A38B74A5-A14D-4963-B3A6-1FBAFC806196 (resized).jpegA38B74A5-A14D-4963-B3A6-1FBAFC806196 (resized).jpeg
#1147 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Lots of times the eprom is bad on the speech board - pretty much you want to do EVERYTHING else before deciding that the speech processor (expensive) chip is bad. I've have several vsu-100's that I was sure was the processor, but it turned out to be the 2716's.

Took the VSU-100 board out to do readings. here is what I have. What does it mean? A correct answer could be: "You don't know how to take readings."

f2k readings.pdff2k readings.pdf
#1148 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Took the VSU-100 board out to do readings. here is what I have. What does it mean? A correct answer could be: "You don't know how to take readings."[quoted image]

I would put the vsu back in and record the readings of the test points with the game in attract mode. This may help with the diagnostics much more.

#1149 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would put the vsu back in and record the readings of the test points with the game in attract mode. This may help with the diagnostics much more.

How do you put it in attract mode? Also, I was not able to get it to self-test, by pressing the button. What’s the correct way? Thanks

#1150 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

How do you put it in attract mode? Also, I was not able to get it to self-test, by pressing the button. What’s the correct way? Thanks

Attract mode happens after the game boots up. You don't need to do anything except be sure that all 3 balls are in the game. The switched lamps on the playfield will flash is a specific sequence over and over. Also the scores will change from score of last game to the high score to date (HSTD) about every 10 seconds or so.

the game has to be in attract mode to run the self test sequence. Inside the coin door you should find 2 white push button switches. One is memory clear, the other is self test. First press should start the testing of the coils, sounds, speech and score displays. Do you have the manual for this game?

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