Sat morning bump for full New F2K CPR plastic set. $170 shipped.
Pm me, Thanks.

Making good progress on my playfield swap and checking lamps. Don’t know how other people are doing this step but thought I’d share..

Using an old phone charger that outputs 5vdc. Just cut off the connector and add alligator clips.

For the GI, hook up to any general illumination lamp socket and if you’ve wired all lamps correctly they should all be on. Can troubleshoot from there.

For the controlled lamps, hook positive to transformer connector blue wire.
Edit- there are two blue wires position 3 and 7.

Go through lamp connector positions and it goes pretty fast thanks to Inkochnito for his chart back on post #630.

I use a piece of header pin strip to insert into the connectors. You could just check at the lamp sockets but this lets you know the wiring is correct.
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Good stuff. I have used the header pin trick for troubleshooting but not testing.

Mock-up of double layer lane guides using old and new pieces. Could only see what one side looks like. Haven’t melted the bells in yet and don’t have 8 more for the other side, or the longer screws...

I liked the ones I’ve seen with clear layer on the bottom. With both layers printed seems like too much?

Those that have added a layer- does it obscure the ball coming down the in-lane? Would you do it again or leave single layer?

Are clear lane guides available or would have to make my own?

Thx

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Another Sat Bump For New Plastic Set....$160 Shipped!

I Also have these used Plastics for sale.
$25 Free ship.

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You only need to lift the upper ball guides just enough to be clear of any ball coming down the inlane. The lower guide will take the abuse. I suggest you get some 1/4" spacers to use between the two guides. You could probably use 1/8" spacers and be OK. And you could used some plain old washers in a pinch.

You can make your own.. Get this .060 thick 12' x 12' sheet of polycarbonate and make your own . I think a 12 " x 12" sheet would be big enough to make two but double check.

ebay.com link: Polycarbonate Clear 1 16 060 X 12 x 12 Palsun Flat Sheet

I am trying once again to get my F2K to work again. I am replacing the rectifier board and looking for a diagram of the solder points on the original board since they are not labeled. New board labels them as (e1, e2, e3, etc.)

Sorry to butt in, but it appears the on/off (a.k.a. power) switch on my game is the source of my reset problems (or perhaps, "a" source). I was testing capacitors on the power board and turned the machine back on and discovered I could make the game work, or reset with a little pressure on the power switch.

Have you ever had a similar problem? Will any dpst toggle of similar size suffice?

Good input. The second level is definitely too tall at 1/2”. I’ll check it out with some washers as spacers.

May try to cut my own clear lanes. Thanks!

Think you go by the color code of the wires comming off the transformer, https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Stern_TA-100_Rectifier_Board

Yeah them toggle switches can fail, you should be able to pick one of from a local hardware store

Back in the day, I did two F2K and for the return lanes I sandwiched two pieces together.
First was a cut clear and then topped with the artwork piece. So it was more or less
a thick plastic type return lane.

I’ll check out the look of that. Have to bust out my scroll saw. Thx

Thank you!

I just posted a very nice F2K in the classifieds of the market place.

Beautiful looking example, Lovef2k .

BTW, can someone please show me where to find the seller fees here on PS?

Thank you sir!

Yep, same issue with mine, but I was definitely giving it a workout with all the software testing so not surprised it busted.

Make sure you don't get one that's too small I had some 3a ones which I ended up not using so I ordered some 10amp ones. They weren't that expensive, most electronics supplies should carry these. If the 'bat' on the switch ends up being a little longer than stock you can either put a thicker wood block on the game, add a couple washers on the metal spacer, or use the extra locknut that comes with the new switch to space it up correctly so it's recessed properly.

I suppose technically the 3a switch would have been fine since the main power fuse is also 3a, but I like the idea of extra headroom there, and the 3a one was really flimsy.

When you go to mark your game sold....glwt....there will be a tab to donate.
$25 is the customary fee, can come strait out of paypal.
Same for all game parts, fees are smaller.
For instance, if someone would like my used F2K plastics or Full set, i would donate 5 for the used and 10 for the new set.
$2500 is a nice price for your example, Im listing mine in so cal this week for the same.

There was a high tech inlane plastics scan by wolffcub on post #816

Edit: and Reaper802 shared this file in post #892,

but here’s some low tech in case anyone needs it.

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Thanks, I'll do that. A little "headroom" is nice.

I also shared 3D models of the inlane guides that can be used to print or CNC cut new ones. Just search my posts in this thread.

I wish I had that tester right now, I am not sure what I’m doing trying to repin and install a new molex connector. I think I finally figured out which way to hold the crimper though. Is the attached the schematic for the J4 on the voice board? Does the pic show the right configuration of wires? Trying to figure out how to double check from the schematic, since I couldn’t keep track of them as some of them popped out together in the process.

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Thanks! So there's no set fee? I thought it went by the amount of the sale.

how's this one? ebay.com link: Carling Technologies 2Gk54 73 Toggle Switch Dpst 10A 250V Screw

Probably ok spec wise but I dislike screw terminals. Solder + heat shrink for mine.

Yes, the connector input on the voice board is the same connection since the short cabling is just a 1-1 jumper over to the lamp board (which is actually what that drawing shows.)

You'll have to do a continuity check from the popped out wires to the corresponding connectors shown to verify. Usual way to repin is to do one at a time so you can keep track. The schematic page in the manual for the lamp driver board will show the wire colors, but double check with meter any that popped out.

Maybe someone has a good clear picture of this connector for you. I’m not near my machine now.

For some reason I knew you would say that!

I did not have the molex connector housing in 17 pins, so I combined part of the original and another housing. See Part One and Part Two. I assumed that pins I took out of the old housing and placed into the new housing, did not need to be repinned if they locked into place in the new housing.

Result, (1) machine is starting to make slight speech on start up, but in frequently; (2) ball does not kick into plunger lane on start, and when a ball drains or hits the walker.

However, when machine is on, and the ball does not kick out, and I remove Part Two and plug it back in, it does kick out the ball to the plunger lane. When I do the same thing with Part One, nothing happens, except for slight change in general machine buzzing sound.

I will start figuring out the continuity test, which I’m assuming would allow me to find the wire and pin that interact with the kick out mechanism, and rule that spot out as an issue. Is that the approach? Thanks

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One could add four solder lugs to the screw terminals.

I haven't purchased those from ebay, just in my watch list. I never thought the power switch would only partially fail, just figured that if it powers up, the switch is good. Now that I know this, I will replace the power switch on future restores.

Your crimps on the connector look really iffy. These connector pins have a 2 part crimp. The first crimp grabs the bare wire. The second crimp should crimp the insulation for a nice tight grip. So you need to actually do 2 crimps per wire. Also need to make sure no bare wire interferes with the springy part of the pins. You only need to strip about an 1/8th of an inch of insulation. Are you using the Waldom crimper? If so, yellow or red handles? I like the yellow for this size.

The connection at the speech board shouldn't be affecting the coils. Unless your off on the pins and throwing off the software somehow. You may have switch issues as well.

thanks. Using an HD255, I think, blue handles.

Does it crimp both side at once? I have something similar but I find it difficult to use, seems like it was made for a lefty to me. I always go back to the Waldom.

I was assuming that it crimps both sides, but given the explanation of proper crimping, it makes sense that it is only one at a time.

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I’m in the weeds on pin connector housings right now, Are Molex 22-01-2201 interchangeable with 22-01-2171? How do I know if the housing “fits” the head of pins?

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The only difference between these two Molex part numbers is the number of circuits.
xx-xx-x17x is 17 circuit
xx-xx-x20x is 20 circuit

They're both 0.100" spacing between pins.
Not significant here, but one of those part numbers isn't right. The white housing has the side polarising ribs so possibly the part number is 22-01-3207 or it could be a non-Molex brand housing.

So once I repin a wire connector housing, I can put a header pin strip into it and check continuity through the housing on each of the wires? And that lets me know that the housing “fits” the pins?

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It does both sides at once. You put the connector in the jaws with the back of it flush against the left side of the crimper (the side you are showing), strip the wire back about 1/8", then you put the wire in the connector with the stripped part forward of the little tabbed ears that stick up more, with the insulation in the back part where the ears are. Then crimp down. Done.

I got something similar, which I hope to connect using solder:
https://www.amazon.com/Morris-70100-Toggle-Switches-Terminals/dp/B005GDG0Z0/ref=sr_1_4

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Got it. Turns out it wasn’t the tool.

Now I need to combine some knowledge. I’m dive back into the schematic to see if I can confirm that the White-Red wire connects to the #1 pin on the J2 on the VSU-1000. And confirm its function, where it leads.

I will install the pin in the housing and attach the pin head strip, and test it for continuity. If it tests okay then I can move onto the next pin. This way I don’t install a whole group of pins wrong and find out at the end. Does that make sense?

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So, it appears from the schematic that the J2-1 wire (white-red) on the VSU-100 (I’m assuming this page depicts the speech board) leads to an “electrical maze”, which makes sense, b/c I visually traced it to J3-10 on the power supply board, so I know its function has to do with powering something, right?

On the schematic what is the J1-1 that looks like it is connected to the J2-1?

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The speech board connectors are J1 and J2 they are completely parallel because it's a pass-through to the jumper that goes to the lamp board.

You can actually swap those connectors with no ill effects but I usually leave it as harness to J1, then jumper cable from j2 to the lamp driver input j1.

Okay, I see the schematic just shows the pass-through aspect of those banks of pinheads. I will do the swap too then.

See in my pick, I have what will be (after I swap) J1-1, set up for testing. How do I test this? I assume I have to turn on the machine, set the multimeter meter setting to something useful, and then put one of the wires on a ground, and one on the pinhead, and then I know that current is getting through the housing. Is this right? What setting do I use?

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do you mean jumper cable from J2 to lamp driver input J4?

I just want to confirm that the white wire with red dashes goes to pin 1 on "J1/J2" on the VSU-100, and the brown wire with yellow dashes goes on pin 2, etc. etc., where should i be looking in the schematics? On the attached pic, where do I go in the schematic to get to my marked up destination, to confirm the proper wiring configuration onto the J1 on the VSU-100?

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Yes, it was a typo. It goes to the lamp driver board at J4

Your attached picture is of the switch matrix on the playfield. While by coincidence it might share some same wire colors, they have nothing to do with the signals to the lamp driver board/VSU.
Unfortunately Stern didn't mark the wire colors for the VSU/lamp driver board signals you're looking for.
The only info there is, is the wiring diagram page that tells you where the wire locations from the lamp driver board J4 come from. So you'll have to check the code next to the J4 connector that tells you which board/connector/pin the wires come from.

See below:
A2 = the Power Rectifier board
A3 = the Solenoid Driver board
A4 = the MPU board
A5 = the Lamp Driver board

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