Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 159 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 days ago by Xtraball
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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There are 159 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 1 year ago
Quoted from michaelgeib:

Hi guys,
Long time pinsider but rare poster.
Have a request for a picture - I need to see the wiring from the left flipper coil ... which wires go to which of the 3 lugs ... and then which 2 wires go from the lugs to the exact spot on the flipper switch.
My left flipper started to bind so I did a flipper rebuild ... when I plugged it in to play a test game, I played for a while but suddenly the game shut down (complete power shutdown). I fried the 3A fuse on the rectifier board and I also fried the left flipper coil ... the coil must've melted the coil sleeve as I can't get the coil sleeve out of the coil. So I'm ordering a left flipper coil
Not sure what other damage I've done yet as I need to get the right fuse. Figured while I would at least figure out the wiring for the coil when it arrives. The wiring on my right flipper looks straightforward. The wiring at the 3 coil lugs for the left flipper is very confusing looking ... looks previous owner has multiple wires (at least 3) on the same lug ... so I'm confused at this point.
Sorry for the newbie like question ... I've looked in this thread and at some resto threads but there's no real clear shot of the wiring for the left flipper.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

first pic: diodes shown inside of terminal plate , left flipper
on the coil side of the terminals are a couple of diodes, I don't think new coils have them installed

2'nd pic: flipper button as requested
left flipper button as requested

3'rd pic: my RIGHT flipper coil has the 3 conductors on 1 terminal
this is my RIGHT flipper with 3 conductors on the one lug

I hope all this helps

#52 1 year ago

Chas10e and Swillie ... thank you very much for posting the pics ! Much appreciated!

Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

3 weeks later
#53 1 year ago

Look at this... three ball games!

IMG_4330 (resized).JPG

#54 1 year ago

That is a great score! Especially for a three ball game, good job.

#55 1 year ago

Now wait a minute, let's talk about the settings for a minute shall we? How's the right spinner set, does it reset to 500 per spin at the start of each ball or is it set to remember? How about the bonus multiplier? Does it reset at the start of each ball also? Couple of the other settings can make a difference too. Still a nice score regardless. Love my F2K!

#56 1 year ago

Well I have mine set progressive, so the spinner and bonus carry over to next ball. I like how the scoring rewards you the longer you play, especially after multiball if you can hit the standup reliably(I cant, lol) and earn the extraball. Mine is set to 5 ball, that's my current hi score...

IMG_0212 (resized).JPG

#57 1 year ago

I have it set progressive also.

#58 1 year ago

I think maybe I'll set mine up that way. I've gotten the multiplier up to 7X a few times and I like the way the sound really starts cranking as it counts up the bonus. Would be cool to hear the count up from somewhere around the 15X max.

3 weeks later
#59 1 year ago

Greetings all Can I join the club? Just picked up a farm fresh FY2K It needs help and so do I. Can anyone send me a lower 1/2 playfield scan. thanks

20170610_193604 (resized).jpg

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4 months later
#60 10 months ago

Just thought i'd share my pinball repair success today. My good friends F2K top right ball kicker in the ball corale seized up awhile back. Finally found time to get to his place and investigate...coil sleeve was melted badly, iron plunger could not move. Replaced the coil, powered game on, no solenoids working. Fuse under playfield burnt...calls for 1 1/4 amp slow blo. 2 1/2 amp was there , I replaced with a 1 amp slow blo, close as I had without going over. Power on, 2nd kicker locked on. That explains the grill cheese coil sleeve sandwich. Q17 driver transistor on the solenoid driver board tested bad. Not having a TIP102 handy, I swapped Q19 ( coin lockout coil driver) to Q17, he doesn't use coins anyway. She is back up and running!! We played a few matches, what a fun game and my friend was so geeked it was working again. Apparent board problems always scare me for a minute, than you think it through and work the problem. Love this game!!

4 weeks later
#61 9 months ago

Anyone know where to look for rules on the game? I suppose I could just go read them one by one in TPA -- but if they are already printed out somewhere, that would be nice.

I'm wondering if there is a bonus collect, or a bonus carry-over -- any hurry ups?

#62 9 months ago

No bonus carryover that I know of. Stand up target and clearing right 3 bank both increase the bonus multiplier and there is a setting to carryover the multiplier between balls. Same for right spinner.

#65 9 months ago

I have replaced a few of the lamp sockets under the playfield and I've had mixed success. One of them (4,000 blue insert) I've completely replaced and it worked for a while but quit again. I replaced the lamp and the socket. Anyone else have any issues with new lamps and lamp sockets not working? Is there anything I need to know about that braided wire that (annoyingly) connects all of the lamp sockets - like is it really important to solder that a certain way so it maintains the connection? Any pro tips are welcome, thanks!

#66 9 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

No bonus carryover that I know of. Stand up target and clearing right 3 bank both increase the bonus multiplier and there is a setting to carryover the multiplier between balls. Same for right spinner.

Bonus X multiplier carryover is adjustable by MPU dip switch. Spinner value bonus carryover has an option too.

Quoted from brianmcculloh:

like is it really important to solder that a certain way so it maintains the connection? Any pro tips are welcome, thanks!

I have never any trouble with new lamp holders here. The old original lamp holders will drive me crazy on game with a bit of corrosion. OCD flares up when a light goes out on one of my games =D.

You want the solder to flow through the braid. If it is just bubbling up on top of the braid you don't have enough heat / heat transfer to get the solder to flow. If you have having trouble maybe try braided wire to piece of thin stranded wire to the lamp socket. That way you dont have the lamp socket and the braid heat sinking your iron tip at the same time.

#67 9 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Bonus X multiplier carryover is adjustable by MPU dip switch. Spinner value bonus carryover has an option too.

I have never any trouble with new lamp holders here. The old original lamp holders will drive me crazy on game with a bit of corrosion. OCD flares up when a light goes out on one of my games =D.
You want the solder to flow through the braid. If it is just bubbling up on top of the braid you don't have enough heat / heat transfer to get the solder to flow. If you have having trouble maybe try braided wire to piece of thin stranded wire to the lamp socket. That way you dont have the lamp socket and the braid heat sinking your iron tip at the same time.

That makes sense, I will use the braided wire to stranded wire technique from now on. Where is the best place to get stranded wire? Marco? Lowe's? And can I just buy a spool of wire that will work with pretty much any solid state machine? Or do I have to pay attention to the gauge? Thanks again for your pro tips!

#68 9 months ago

I’m in guys!

782B04E7-C028-47DA-B319-F991765485B2 (resized).jpeg

#69 9 months ago

Rebuilt one of these as my first real pin. Was fantastic. Bottom pop bumper now locks on at start. Transistor must have blown on the driver board. Tested the transistor and it tests fine with a multimeter. Ive disconnected the coil for now. Any other ideas?

Lower pop bumper locks on on power up. Game all fine if disconnected.

#70 9 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Rebuilt one of these as my first real pin. Was fantastic. Bottom pop bumper now locks on at start. Transistor must have blown on the driver board. Tested the transistor and it tests fine with a multimeter. Ive disconnected the coil for now. Any other ideas?
Lower pop bumper locks on on power up. Game all fine if disconnected.

If coil locks as soon as you power on its likely that driver transistor.

#71 9 months ago

Played one game tonight, had the best single multiball ever on this game for me. So much fun.

IMG_1915 (resized).JPG

#72 9 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

Played one game tonight, had the best single multiball ever on this game for me. So much fun.

Nicely done! My best is 2.7 billion.

#73 9 months ago
Quoted from brianmcculloh:

Nicely done! My best is 2.7 billion.

Holy crap, I am selling my games and never playing again.

#74 9 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

Holy crap, I am selling my games and never playing again.

NO no no no, I meant 2.7 million. Wow! I shouldn't post until I've had my coffee. Sorry about that.

#75 9 months ago

I'm looking to put some time/money into my F2K and I was wondering if anyone else has done any of the following to their machines, and if you can provide any comments or tips:

1) New drop targets
2) New plastics
3) New backglass

The drop targets seem pretty expensive just for the plastics ($45 at Marco). Any other place to get these? Can I just buy one or two instead of all 8, or should I ideally replace them all at the same time?

I can only find the plastics like one place for $165 (full plastic set - I have several broken plastics). Is that a reasonable price?

I'm aware that the backglass is pretty much impossible at this point unless I'm willing to spend several hundreds for one on ebay. I know I wouldn't get that ROI back out of a replacement, so should I just leave this one alone? I'm not a restorer, I'm just a collector/player.

Thanks everyone!

#76 9 months ago

single drop targets @ PBresouce $4.oo each (x8= $24.oo + some shipping)

http://pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm#Stern

my drop bank had some shims and was able to put them back the same way I only got the 5 numbered targets but wished I had gotten all 8

#77 9 months ago
Quoted from chas10e:

single drop targets @ PBresouce $4.oo each (x8= $24.oo + some shipping)
http://pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm#Stern
my drop bank had some shims and was able to put them back the same way I only got the 5 numbered targets but wished I had gotten all 8

Excellent, just ordered 5 of them for $20 (plus shipping). You just saved me $25 bucks, thanks a lot!

#78 9 months ago

I put new plastics onto mine and it did wonders. Mine were pretty good just faded. Few cracks on the ball guide sections but were only noticeable if you looked for them. Getting the purple back as it should be instead of the faded grey they had become did wonders to refresh the game

1 month later
#79 8 months ago

Can someone help me with the proper behavior of the 1-5 drops? When should they reset? Does your progress save ball to ball? When should they drop on their own?

Mine are acting crazy and not sure what’s what.

Thanks!

#80 8 months ago

The drops are confusing. There is always one lit (arrow blinking) starting with 5. Hitting any non lit target causes it to stay dropped. Hitting a lit target or hitting either inlane causes lit target to drop (lets say 3) and next target to left (2) is lit...if any lower number target is already knocked down (in this case 2 or 1) than the bank will reset and drop the targets to the right of and including the last one hit (in this case 5,4 & 3) leaving 2 & 1 up with 2 lit. This way it can keep track of when you have hit drops 5-1 in order.

In 2-4 player game, the lit target carries over to your next ball and resets the bank, dropping the targets to the right of lit target so you can continue trying to clear the drops counting down to 1 before locking the 3rd ball to start multiball.

Whew, i'm tired

#81 8 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

The drops are confusing. There is always one lit (arrow blinking) starting with 5. Hitting any non lit target causes it to stay dropped. Hitting a lit target or hitting either inlane causes lit target to drop (lets say 3) and next target to left (2) is lit...if any lower number target is already knocked down (in this case 2 or 1) than the bank will reset and drop the targets to the right of and including the last one hit (in this case 5,4 & 3) leaving 2 & 1 up with 2 lit. This way it can keep track of when you have hit drops 5-1 in order.
In 2-4 player game, the lit target carries over to your next ball and resets the bank, dropping the targets to the right of lit target so you can continue trying to clear the drops counting down to 1 before locking the 3rd ball to start multiball.
Whew, i'm tired

Haha. Thank you!! Now when I have two balls locked, spell blast off, and let’s say at that point I’m on 3, and it’s blinking, wil my countdown start there or does the bank reset and start at 5?

#82 8 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. Thank you!! Now when I have two balls locked, spell blast off, and let’s say at that point I’m on 3, and it’s blinking, wil my countdown start there or does the bank reset and start at 5?

Starts where it's at...so 3 in that case.

#83 8 months ago

Yep. Count down starts at whichever is the current sequence countdown target lit. Very annoying when one of your drop switches doesn’t register 100% of the time and you need to use the online rollover to register it

#84 8 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Yep. Count down starts at whichever is the current sequence countdown target lit. Very annoying when one of your drop switches doesn’t register 100% of the time and you need to use the online rollover to register it

Yeah this multiball is hard enough to get to without the drops acting up.

3 months later
#85 4 months ago

Help fello F2K owners. I'm wondering if someone could tell me where the red/white wire on the main connector (biggest one) goes to? Mine was cut and is dangling and would like to put it where it's suppose to go?

#86 4 months ago

Manual is available on ipdb which shows the pinout on the connectors. Note that the number next to the wire indicates the pin not the order it appears as a line

#87 4 months ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Help fello F2K owners. I'm wondering if someone could tell me where the red/white wire on the main connector (biggest one) goes to? Mine was cut and is dangling and would like to put it where it's suppose to go?

Lol sorry I meant to say where the red/white wire on the main connector that connects to the rectifier board. I'm not super good reading schematics and would love a picture or someone to have a look and let me know.

#88 4 months ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Lol sorry I meant to say where the red/white wire on the main connector that connects to the rectifier board. I'm not super good reading schematics and would love a picture or someone to have a look and let me know.

looks like a couple red ones. lemme know if this helps

IMG_1584 (resized).JPG

#89 4 months ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Lol sorry I meant to say where the red/white wire on the main connector that connects to the rectifier board. I'm not super good reading schematics and would love a picture or someone to have a look and let me know.

It is the J-3 connector of which you speak. Is it a red wire with white stripes? Or is it a white wire with red stripes? It is important to know this.

The blue print shows there is a white/red wire at pin #4. I have enlarged the J-3 part of the drawing. There is no time like the present to learn how to read this stuff. J-3 is a 20 pin connector. Pin #1 starts at your left when looking at your your machine. #1, #2, #3..........#20. Left to right.

To keep the drawing from looking like spaghetti it is drawn in a manner to keep the wiring in some sort of order so the drawing starts at pin #9, #12, #13, #10 all the down to pin #7. Can you imagine how confusing it would be to track the wiring on the left side of the connector if it was drawn as 1,,3,4,5,6....etc? Pin #7 is a key that is installed in the connector so you won't plug it in backwards. Look at your connector and you should see a lockout ket at pin #7.

You need to learn wiring color callouts. "O" is Orange. Blu is blue. B is black. If you have a blue wire with a black stripe it is called out as Blu-B. A Brown wire with a black stripe is Brn-B. "R" is Red. "W" is White. "G" is Green. Grey is Grey. Grey with a black stripe is Grey-B. "P" is Purple. "Y" is Yellow. P-Y is Purple with Yellow stripes.

Pins #3, #4, and #14 are all return wires from your lamp driver board. Pin #4 is called W-R. If you are looking for a home for a White-Red wire it goes to pin #4.

OTOH, if you are looking for a home for a R-W wire I cannot help you because R-W is not part of the J-3 connector. There is a R-Y at pin #19. But you are not looking for a R-Y wire.

Hopes this helps you get started to reading schematics.

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#90 4 months ago

I this club for about a year now I think

Most played game at TPF, never got a break , still running strong

#91 4 months ago

Anyone mess with the ball lock mech? The one I have is having trouble where the free moving arms are getting caught causing the arms controlled by the coil to not reset when the coil disengages.

I’m going to take the whole mech out and play with it this week, but figured I’d post here first and get everyone’s thoughts.

Thanks!

#92 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone mess with the ball lock mech? The one I have is having trouble where the free moving arms are getting caught causing the arms controlled by the coil to not reset when the coil disengages.
I’m going to take the whole mech out and play with it this week, but figured I’d post here first and get everyone’s thoughts.
Thanks!

My suspicion is its just some dirt causing the parts to bind. I had mine apart for a full cleaning not too long ago. The 1st, 3rd and 5th fingers fall back under gravity and are retured to position when the coil is deenergized. Two springs aid in this - one on the plunger and one at the end of the mech.

846E1DF5-19E1-447D-B8F4-F7BE0AE5D49D (resized).jpeg

#93 4 months ago

Thanks so much for the pic. I think i see my issue. I don’t have those same parts.

I’ll post pictures when I get it out of my game.

Dirt is no issue as this is a full restore.

#94 4 months ago

There’s also some small plastic bushings where the pins go through the plate. I have a spare populated PF if you need any game specific parts.

#95 4 months ago
Quoted from Completist:

There’s also some small plastic bushings where the pins go through the plate. I have a spare populated PF if you need any game specific parts.

That would be fantastic. I’ll keep you posted.

Thanks again.

#96 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is the J-3 connector of which you speak. Is it a red wire with white stripes? Or is it a white wire with red stripes? It is important to know this.
The blue print shows there is a white/red wire at pin #4. I have enlarged the J-3 part of the drawing. There is no time like the present to learn how to read this stuff. J-3 is a 20 pin connector. Pin #1 starts at your left when looking at your your machine. #1, #2, #3..........#20. Left to right.
To keep the drawing from looking like spaghetti it is drawn in a manner to keep the wiring in some sort of order so the drawing starts at pin #9, #12, #13, #10 all the down to pin #7. Can you imagine how confusing it would be to track the wiring on the left side of the connector if it was drawn as 1,,3,4,5,6....etc? Pin #7 is a key that is installed in the connector so you won't plug it in backwards. Look at your connector and you should see a lockout ket at pin #7.
You need to learn wiring color callouts. "O" is Orange. Blu is blue. B is black. If you have a blue wire with a black stripe it is called out as Blu-B. A Brown wire with a black stripe is Brn-B. "R" is Red. "W" is White. "G" is Green. Grey is Grey. Grey with a black stripe is Grey-B. "P" is Purple. "Y" is Yellow. P-Y is Purple with Yellow stripes.
Pins #3, #4, and #14 are all return wires from your lamp driver board. Pin #4 is called W-R. If you are looking for a home for a White-Red wire it goes to pin #4.
OTOH, if you are looking for a home for a R-W wire I cannot help you because R-W is not part of the J-3 connector. There is a R-Y at pin #19. But you are not looking for a R-Y wire.
Hopes this helps you get started to reading schematics.

Sorry I wrote the message when I wasn’t at home to give more accurate information. Yes you were correct it is pin 4 on J3 it is a white wire with red stripes. I have it connected in J3 ( I will redo this nasty looking connector ) but from there I don’t know where it connects? Mine starts out as white with red stripes then they heat shrieked an orange wire on there that goes to nothing. Thanks for some pointers on reading schematics. I do need some lessons on that. Here is a picture of my jumbled mess.

E0585D28-C6B0-40B9-8AF8-A27D554B8095 (resized).jpeg

#97 4 months ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Sorry I wrote the message when I wasn’t at home to give more accurate information. Yes you were correct it is pin 4 on J3 it is a white wire with red stripes. I have it connected in J3 ( I will redo this nasty looking connector ) but from there I don’t know where it connects? Mine starts out as white with red stripes then they heat shrieked an orange wire on there that goes to nothing. Thanks for some pointers on reading schematics. I do need some lessons on that. Here is a picture of my jumbled mess.

I don't have time to give you pics right now. On the blue print, the /transformer rectifier board is called A2. Your Lamp Driver board is called A5. Your W-R wire is noted to travel from A2J3-4 to the Lamp Driver (LDA). It travels to A5J4-1. So, look on your LDA and see the J4 connector on the upper left hand side of the board. There are 17 pins on connector J4 with pin one at the bottom. All of these old Sterns are the same. I just verified on my Big Game that A5J4-1 is a W-R wire.

Actually, I do have time for pics.

This .pdf file is for Seawitch. The drawing I pulled is the same for most of the Sterns.

http://www.ipdb.org/files/2089/Stern_1980_Seawitch_schematics.pdf#page=2&zoom=150,511,1229

Screen Shot 2018-05-14 at 7.39.48 AM (resized).png

On this page, the pins are labeled in order. What this page DOES NOT give you is wire colors.

A2 is in upper right hand corner. Connector J3 is on the left. pin #4 is four down. You are told to go to A5J4-1

Screen Shot 2018-05-14 at 7.40.47 AM (resized).png

A5 is in lower left hand corner. J4 is on the left. pin 1 is on top. It crosses right back to A2J3-4 where you came from.

Screen Shot 2018-05-14 at 7.41.31 AM (resized).png

Try this. Take a look at A5J4-17. It goes to A4J1-12. A4 is the MPU just to the right of A5. Look at A4J1-12 and it takes you right back to ASJ4-17.

Study this sheet. This should open some doors for you. I'm still learning it but once you decide which wire is Point A this sheet will lead you to Point B for every wire that is not on the play field, with the exception of A2J1 and A2J2 connnectors which are your G.I. lights and feature lights bus wires.

Flippers, slingshots, pop bumpers and all of your switches and lights are on another sheet.

If you have any questions, please raise your hand.

#98 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't have time to give you pics right now. On the blue print, the /transformer rectifier board is called A2. Your Lamp Driver board is called A5. Your W-R wire is noted to travel from A2J3-4 to the Lamp Driver (LDA). It travels to A5J4-1. So, look on your LDA and see the J4 connector on the upper left hand side of the board. There are 17 pins on connector J4 with pin one at the bottom. All of these old Sterns are the same. I just verified on my Big Game that A5J4-1 is a W-R wire.
Actually, I do have time for pics.
This .pdf file is for Seawitch. The drawing I pulled is the same for most of the Sterns.
http://www.ipdb.org/files/2089/Stern_1980_Seawitch_schematics.pdf#page=2&zoom=150,511,1229

On this page, the pins are labeled in order. What this page DOES NOT give you is wire colors.
A2 is in upper right hand corner. Connector J3 is on the left. pin #4 is four down. You are told to go to A5J4-1

A5 is in lower left hand corner. J4 is on the left. pin 1 is on top. It crosses right back to A2J3-4 where you came from.

Try this. Take a look at A5J4-17. It goes to A4J1-12. A4 is the MPU just to the right of A5. Look at A4J1-12 and it takes you right back to ASJ4-17.
Study this sheet. This should open some doors for you. I'm still learning it but once you decide which wire is Point A this sheet will lead you to Point B for every wire that is not on the play field, with the exception of A2J1 and A2J2 connnectors which are your G.I. lights and feature lights bus wires.
Flippers, slingshots, pop bumpers and all of your switches and lights are on another sheet.
If you have any questions, please raise your hand.

Thank you VERY much for your help! It is greatly appreciated and I will try my best to study the schematics asap!

#99 4 months ago
Quoted from Completist:

My suspicion is its just some dirt causing the parts to bind. I had mine apart for a full cleaning not too long ago. The 1st, 3rd and 5th fingers fall back under gravity and are retured to position when the coil is deenergized. Two springs aid in this - one on the plunger and one at the end of the mech.

Looks like I’m missing that top plate. Got a spare?

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#100 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Looks like I’m missing that top plate. Got a spare?

I checked my spare pf on the weekend and that ball walker mech was intact. I’ll shoot you a pm.

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