Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

3 years ago


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  • 84 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by chuckwurt
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 84 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 11 months ago
Quoted from michaelgeib:

Hi guys,
Long time pinsider but rare poster.
Have a request for a picture - I need to see the wiring from the left flipper coil ... which wires go to which of the 3 lugs ... and then which 2 wires go from the lugs to the exact spot on the flipper switch.
My left flipper started to bind so I did a flipper rebuild ... when I plugged it in to play a test game, I played for a while but suddenly the game shut down (complete power shutdown). I fried the 3A fuse on the rectifier board and I also fried the left flipper coil ... the coil must've melted the coil sleeve as I can't get the coil sleeve out of the coil. So I'm ordering a left flipper coil
Not sure what other damage I've done yet as I need to get the right fuse. Figured while I would at least figure out the wiring for the coil when it arrives. The wiring on my right flipper looks straightforward. The wiring at the 3 coil lugs for the left flipper is very confusing looking ... looks previous owner has multiple wires (at least 3) on the same lug ... so I'm confused at this point.
Sorry for the newbie like question ... I've looked in this thread and at some resto threads but there's no real clear shot of the wiring for the left flipper.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

first pic: diodes shown inside of terminal plate , left flipper
on the coil side of the terminals are a couple of diodes, I don't think new coils have them installed

2'nd pic: flipper button as requested
left flipper button as requested

3'rd pic: my RIGHT flipper coil has the 3 conductors on 1 terminal
this is my RIGHT flipper with 3 conductors on the one lug

I hope all this helps

#52 11 months ago

Chas10e and Swillie ... thank you very much for posting the pics ! Much appreciated!

Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

3 weeks later
#53 11 months ago

Look at this... three ball games!

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#54 11 months ago

That is a great score! Especially for a three ball game, good job.

#55 11 months ago

Now wait a minute, let's talk about the settings for a minute shall we? How's the right spinner set, does it reset to 500 per spin at the start of each ball or is it set to remember? How about the bonus multiplier? Does it reset at the start of each ball also? Couple of the other settings can make a difference too. Still a nice score regardless. Love my F2K!

#56 10 months ago

Well I have mine set progressive, so the spinner and bonus carry over to next ball. I like how the scoring rewards you the longer you play, especially after multiball if you can hit the standup reliably(I cant, lol) and earn the extraball. Mine is set to 5 ball, that's my current hi score...

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#57 10 months ago

I have it set progressive also.

#58 10 months ago

I think maybe I'll set mine up that way. I've gotten the multiplier up to 7X a few times and I like the way the sound really starts cranking as it counts up the bonus. Would be cool to hear the count up from somewhere around the 15X max.

3 weeks later
#59 10 months ago

Greetings all Can I join the club? Just picked up a farm fresh FY2K It needs help and so do I. Can anyone send me a lower 1/2 playfield scan. thanks

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4 months later
#60 5 months ago

Just thought i'd share my pinball repair success today. My good friends F2K top right ball kicker in the ball corale seized up awhile back. Finally found time to get to his place and investigate...coil sleeve was melted badly, iron plunger could not move. Replaced the coil, powered game on, no solenoids working. Fuse under playfield burnt...calls for 1 1/4 amp slow blo. 2 1/2 amp was there :wall:, I replaced with a 1 amp slow blo, close as I had without going over. Power on, 2nd kicker locked on. That explains the grill cheese coil sleeve sandwich. Q17 driver transistor on the solenoid driver board tested bad. Not having a TIP102 handy, I swapped Q19 ( coin lockout coil driver) to Q17, he doesn't use coins anyway. She is back up and running!! We played a few matches, what a fun game and my friend was so geeked it was working again. Apparent board problems always scare me for a minute, than you think it through and work the problem. Love this game!!

4 weeks later
#61 4 months ago

Anyone know where to look for rules on the game? I suppose I could just go read them one by one in TPA -- but if they are already printed out somewhere, that would be nice.

I'm wondering if there is a bonus collect, or a bonus carry-over -- any hurry ups?

#62 4 months ago

No bonus carryover that I know of. Stand up target and clearing right 3 bank both increase the bonus multiplier and there is a setting to carryover the multiplier between balls. Same for right spinner.

#65 4 months ago

I have replaced a few of the lamp sockets under the playfield and I've had mixed success. One of them (4,000 blue insert) I've completely replaced and it worked for a while but quit again. I replaced the lamp and the socket. Anyone else have any issues with new lamps and lamp sockets not working? Is there anything I need to know about that braided wire that (annoyingly) connects all of the lamp sockets - like is it really important to solder that a certain way so it maintains the connection? Any pro tips are welcome, thanks!

#66 4 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

No bonus carryover that I know of. Stand up target and clearing right 3 bank both increase the bonus multiplier and there is a setting to carryover the multiplier between balls. Same for right spinner.

Bonus X multiplier carryover is adjustable by MPU dip switch. Spinner value bonus carryover has an option too.

Quoted from brianmcculloh:

like is it really important to solder that a certain way so it maintains the connection? Any pro tips are welcome, thanks!

I have never any trouble with new lamp holders here. The old original lamp holders will drive me crazy on game with a bit of corrosion. OCD flares up when a light goes out on one of my games =D.

You want the solder to flow through the braid. If it is just bubbling up on top of the braid you don't have enough heat / heat transfer to get the solder to flow. If you have having trouble maybe try braided wire to piece of thin stranded wire to the lamp socket. That way you dont have the lamp socket and the braid heat sinking your iron tip at the same time.

#67 4 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Bonus X multiplier carryover is adjustable by MPU dip switch. Spinner value bonus carryover has an option too.

I have never any trouble with new lamp holders here. The old original lamp holders will drive me crazy on game with a bit of corrosion. OCD flares up when a light goes out on one of my games =D.
You want the solder to flow through the braid. If it is just bubbling up on top of the braid you don't have enough heat / heat transfer to get the solder to flow. If you have having trouble maybe try braided wire to piece of thin stranded wire to the lamp socket. That way you dont have the lamp socket and the braid heat sinking your iron tip at the same time.

That makes sense, I will use the braided wire to stranded wire technique from now on. Where is the best place to get stranded wire? Marco? Lowe's? And can I just buy a spool of wire that will work with pretty much any solid state machine? Or do I have to pay attention to the gauge? Thanks again for your pro tips!

#68 4 months ago

I’m in guys!

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#69 4 months ago

Rebuilt one of these as my first real pin. Was fantastic. Bottom pop bumper now locks on at start. Transistor must have blown on the driver board. Tested the transistor and it tests fine with a multimeter. Ive disconnected the coil for now. Any other ideas?

Lower pop bumper locks on on power up. Game all fine if disconnected.

#70 4 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Rebuilt one of these as my first real pin. Was fantastic. Bottom pop bumper now locks on at start. Transistor must have blown on the driver board. Tested the transistor and it tests fine with a multimeter. Ive disconnected the coil for now. Any other ideas?
Lower pop bumper locks on on power up. Game all fine if disconnected.

If coil locks as soon as you power on its likely that driver transistor.

#71 4 months ago

Played one game tonight, had the best single multiball ever on this game for me. So much fun.

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#72 4 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

Played one game tonight, had the best single multiball ever on this game for me. So much fun.

Nicely done! My best is 2.7 billion.

#73 4 months ago
Quoted from brianmcculloh:

Nicely done! My best is 2.7 billion.

Holy crap, I am selling my games and never playing again.

#74 4 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

Holy crap, I am selling my games and never playing again.

NO no no no, I meant 2.7 million. Wow! I shouldn't post until I've had my coffee. Sorry about that.

#75 4 months ago

I'm looking to put some time/money into my F2K and I was wondering if anyone else has done any of the following to their machines, and if you can provide any comments or tips:

1) New drop targets
2) New plastics
3) New backglass

The drop targets seem pretty expensive just for the plastics ($45 at Marco). Any other place to get these? Can I just buy one or two instead of all 8, or should I ideally replace them all at the same time?

I can only find the plastics like one place for $165 (full plastic set - I have several broken plastics). Is that a reasonable price?

I'm aware that the backglass is pretty much impossible at this point unless I'm willing to spend several hundreds for one on ebay. I know I wouldn't get that ROI back out of a replacement, so should I just leave this one alone? I'm not a restorer, I'm just a collector/player.

Thanks everyone!

#76 4 months ago

single drop targets @ PBresouce $4.oo each (x8= $24.oo + some shipping)

http://pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm#Stern

my drop bank had some shims and was able to put them back the same way I only got the 5 numbered targets but wished I had gotten all 8

#77 4 months ago
Quoted from chas10e:

single drop targets @ PBresouce $4.oo each (x8= $24.oo + some shipping)
http://pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm#Stern
my drop bank had some shims and was able to put them back the same way I only got the 5 numbered targets but wished I had gotten all 8

Excellent, just ordered 5 of them for $20 (plus shipping). You just saved me $25 bucks, thanks a lot!

#78 4 months ago

I put new plastics onto mine and it did wonders. Mine were pretty good just faded. Few cracks on the ball guide sections but were only noticeable if you looked for them. Getting the purple back as it should be instead of the faded grey they had become did wonders to refresh the game

1 month later
#79 3 months ago

Can someone help me with the proper behavior of the 1-5 drops? When should they reset? Does your progress save ball to ball? When should they drop on their own?

Mine are acting crazy and not sure what’s what.

Thanks!

#80 3 months ago

The drops are confusing. There is always one lit (arrow blinking) starting with 5. Hitting any non lit target causes it to stay dropped. Hitting a lit target or hitting either inlane causes lit target to drop (lets say 3) and next target to left (2) is lit...if any lower number target is already knocked down (in this case 2 or 1) than the bank will reset and drop the targets to the right of and including the last one hit (in this case 5,4 & 3) leaving 2 & 1 up with 2 lit. This way it can keep track of when you have hit drops 5-1 in order.

In 2-4 player game, the lit target carries over to your next ball and resets the bank, dropping the targets to the right of lit target so you can continue trying to clear the drops counting down to 1 before locking the 3rd ball to start multiball.

Whew, i'm tired

#81 3 months ago
Quoted from swillie:

The drops are confusing. There is always one lit (arrow blinking) starting with 5. Hitting any non lit target causes it to stay dropped. Hitting a lit target or hitting either inlane causes lit target to drop (lets say 3) and next target to left (2) is lit...if any lower number target is already knocked down (in this case 2 or 1) than the bank will reset and drop the targets to the right of and including the last one hit (in this case 5,4 & 3) leaving 2 & 1 up with 2 lit. This way it can keep track of when you have hit drops 5-1 in order.
In 2-4 player game, the lit target carries over to your next ball and resets the bank, dropping the targets to the right of lit target so you can continue trying to clear the drops counting down to 1 before locking the 3rd ball to start multiball.
Whew, i'm tired

Haha. Thank you!! Now when I have two balls locked, spell blast off, and let’s say at that point I’m on 3, and it’s blinking, wil my countdown start there or does the bank reset and start at 5?

#82 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. Thank you!! Now when I have two balls locked, spell blast off, and let’s say at that point I’m on 3, and it’s blinking, wil my countdown start there or does the bank reset and start at 5?

Starts where it's at...so 3 in that case.

#83 3 months ago

Yep. Count down starts at whichever is the current sequence countdown target lit. Very annoying when one of your drop switches doesn’t register 100% of the time and you need to use the online rollover to register it

#84 3 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Yep. Count down starts at whichever is the current sequence countdown target lit. Very annoying when one of your drop switches doesn’t register 100% of the time and you need to use the online rollover to register it

Yeah this multiball is hard enough to get to without the drops acting up.

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There are 84 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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