(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 946 posts
  • 89 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 370 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

DSC_2741 (resized).JPG
DSC_2740 (resized).JPG
DSC_2739 (resized).JPG
DSC_2738 (resized).JPG
DSC_2737 (resized).JPG
IMG_4182 (resized).JPG
IMG_4183 (resized).JPG
IMG_1533 (resized).JPG
IMG_1534 (resized).JPG
IMG_1535 (resized).JPG
06D36CCD-E490-48A3-BA29-D694D35108F5 (resized).jpeg
DBB6D1AB-E308-4039-A1DF-1EDC0A65862F (resized).jpeg
D7726571-3922-4D14-9FB9-967954475E5C (resized).jpeg
8BDE9C39-5D45-4D14-8D0F-A4A7C0BDFE1D (resized).jpeg
556FF16C-A2F6-45CB-9BDF-80EC2A73A6A2 (resized).jpeg
49E81D4C-69DC-4233-87B1-089F6CC1911C (resized).jpeg

There are 946 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 19.
#901 27 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Anyone have LED recommendations to convert GI, controlled lamps and back box? Goal is to make it tastefully pop a little but not too bright or turn into a rainbow.
I was thinking all white for GI (maybe Comet sunlight or warm white), color match inserts, highlight just certain back glass locations. Ideas and pics? Thanks!

Here are a couple pics of our F2K, which is all LEDs plus has the lower half of the playfield lit with spotlights and bands of colored LEDs. It looks really pretty to us, and doesn't really emphasize any one color over too large an area. Anyway, good luck!

IMG_1469 (resized).JPGIMG_1466 (resized).JPGIMG_1467 (resized).JPGIMG_1468 (resized).JPG
#902 27 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I got a lot of tips from this YT video.

That Comet Matrix lighting is super cool. Especially when you use some of those post lights upside down and under the plastics. You can light up a lot of dark corners with this Matrix lighting .

Quoted from clodpole:

Here are a couple pics of our F2K, which is all LEDs plus has the lower half of the playfield lit with spotlights and bands of colored LEDs. It looks really pretty to us, and doesn't really emphasize any one color over too large an area. Anyway, good luck!

Those lighting mods offer a lot of possibilities. Don't know why I only think of them for newer games and not for the older classics.

Appreciate the pics. Playfield has a very 'spacey' look with the zones of color! Really like how your backglass lighting came out. Beside the different color bulbs, you're also using different brightness bulbs or is that just the way it photographed?

#903 27 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Those lighting mods offer a lot of possibilities. Don't know why I only think of them for newer games and not for the older classics.
Appreciate the pics. Playfield has a very 'spacey' look with the zones of color! Really like how your backglass lighting came out. Beside the different color bulbs, you're also using different brightness bulbs or is that just the way it photographed?

Well, there's white and warm white behind the backglass. Also, you can't see 'em, but there are some 8-LED "traffic lights" under a few playfield plastics to get more light onto the playfield. Comet OPMAX bulbs might do the same thing but brighter. And, those LED bands stuck behind the flippers are blue, purple and blue. Hard to tell in pics.

We're actually the third owners since this game got rebuilt. You can see in this picture how the original rebuilder added purple to the cabinet paint as well as blue legs. With all the colored LED zones and the cabinet colors, this thing really looks pretty. It's still very hard to play....

IMG_1470 (resized).JPG
#904 21 days ago

I went with cool white on the GI and it works well with the cold blue space look.

I also found going with all LED on the backbox washes out the colors.i went with a mix of cool white LED and incandescent with a few colored behind the flames. I also left out some along the top row as it was plenty bright there and more seemed to wash out the art.

2020-07-17 17.08.44.jpg

#905 21 days ago

Good idea; we mixed the warm whites and bright white LEDs to try to get the "FLIGHT 2000" to fade left-to-right.

1 week later
#906 13 days ago

Fellow club members- please see my thread located in the Restoration sub-forum to provide input on my CPR swap questions. Don't want to make any huge mistake in drilling in the wrong spots. Thank you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-front-side-dimple-locations-

#907 7 days ago

Our beautiful F2K is half way through a complete "feature" light socket replacement. The LED bulbs dimmed out randomly, sockets spun and the old solder work was not too good. It looks much nicer underneath, inserts are cleaner, lights brighter, BUT....

It still has this intermittent behavior where the feature lights all brown out and the sound system crackles. We originally thought we might have a shorted light socket or wire, but so far none has turned up. Any other ideas?

#908 7 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Our beautiful F2K is half way through a complete "feature" light socket replacement. The LED bulbs dimmed out randomly, sockets spun and the old solder work was not too good. It looks much nicer underneath, inserts are cleaner, lights brighter, BUT....
It still has this intermittent behavior where the feature lights all brown out and the sound system crackles. We originally thought we might have a shorted light socket or wire, but so far none has turned up. Any other ideas?

System crackles? Please explain. Are you using a Alltek lamp driver with the LEDs? If so, there are specific instructions when using a Alltek w Stern speech games. Double check all of the work performed so far, shorts of trace wire or wiring to the sockets. One time when doing a restore I found a LED lamp with a solder blob stuck to the bottom base of the lamp. It shorted and burned out the scr. So you never know when using after market products on these old games.

#909 6 days ago

We bought this game 3+ years ago with Alltek MPU and lamp driver boards and all LED lighting. It did this "brown-out" about once a year until recently. In recent months it did it more and more, dimming the switched lights and making crackling, static noise through the speaker.

On the suspicion that there was a short somewhere, like the one you describe, I started replacing lamp sockets a couple weeks ago. So far, the brown-outs still occur and I haven't run into more than just ugly old sockets.

98% of the time the game just works as it should, but that's down from 99%....

#910 6 days ago

Does it have a new power rectifier board in it? If not the old one is far past due to be replaced.

#911 6 days ago

Just picked up a flight 2000 last week. Had to get a playable machine , while I restore / clear coat / playfield protector my ‘76 Royal Flush (Couldn’t keep seeing more bare wood everyday). Holy moley, I am really stoked about the F2K as the move from the EM to this machine is like going from acoustic to electric! And what a challenge, was a lot longer Than I was thinking to hit 1 mill and still haven’t broken 2 mill (3 ball). By the way, is it me or the machine supposed the drain the ball within 30 seconds of getting the all systems go for multi-ball, which is happening to me like every single time...

I believe the F2K does have an Alltek MPU, and the one issue it is having is that the voice doesn’t work. The rest of the sound works just not the voice. Where do I find the special instructions? I really want to end the irony of sterns first talking machine unable to speak...

Thanks all

0557B186-BE5A-4475-BDBE-49DFF4FBE195 (resized).jpegFF26053D-8516-412D-B368-86D57AFC5AC0 (resized).jpeg

#912 6 days ago

Ok, It may be that the BR1 bridge rectifier on the power supply board is checking out or maybe something is amiss on that board,TA-100. These are often hacked up and re-worked by now, or maybe replaced with a new board? I see reaper802 beat me to the punch lol.

But the static is making me wonder about the sound board SB-300.

The easiest thing to do now is verify that the Alltek lamp driver has been installed correctly. I couldn't find the complete manual for it online but this is a start:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0071/0810/0141/files/Lamp_Driver_Manual_A_6.pdf?132 but this is missing the last page (6) with the Stern speech game instruction for some reason.

You may even have the manual for it? If so that's great. First verify that the jumper from Alltek J13 was installed and wired into the feature lamp bus line and not the GI bus line, easily confused between the two. Then go to Alltek J4 connector wires going to the top connector of the speech board(VSU-100).

You should see that the wires between J4 lamp driver to the speech board have been cut or removed. You will also see on the left side of the Alltek J4 header pins 9 and 10 marked :SW Illu bus voltage. If there is still a connection there, it could have damaged the switch ill. power supply.

If all that is good, go back to the sound board and pull the connector J2 and see if you still get the brown out.

#913 6 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Does it have a new power rectifier board in it? If not the old one is far past due to be replaced.

I just got new one to keep my Gi from fritzing out.
You really just solder to the back of board?
Ive been meaning to look this up.

#914 6 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I just got new one to keep my Gi from fritzing out.
You really just solder to the back of board?
Ive been meaning to look this up.

Yes, I'm almost positive I posted photos when I did mine. Let me search the thread.

Start at Post 232 and go from there.

#915 6 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I just got new one to keep my Gi from fritzing out.
You really just solder to the back of board?
Ive been meaning to look this up.

Yes the connections for the wires have a through hole. Solder both sides for the best connection. Keep the connections tight and make sure nothing touches the face of the mounting bracket. There should be a piece of fish paper between the back of the rectifier board and the bracket to prevent shorts.

#916 6 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Just picked up a flight 2000 last week. Had to get a playable machine , while I restore / clear coat / playfield protector my ‘76 Royal Flush (Couldn’t keep seeing more bare wood everyday). Holy moley, I am really stoked about the F2K as the move from the EM to this machine is like going from acoustic to electric! And what a challenge, was a lot longer Than I was thinking to hit 1 mill and still haven’t broken 2 mill (3 ball). By the way, is it me or the machine supposed the drain the ball within 30 seconds of getting the all systems go for multi-ball, which is happening to me like every single time...
I believe the F2K does have an Alltek MPU, and the one issue it is having is that the voice doesn’t work. The rest of the sound works just not the voice. Where do I find the special instructions? I really want to end the irony of sterns first talking machine unable to speak...
Thanks all
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on getting F2K. Yes F2K can be a drain monster sometimes, especially when achieving multi-ball. slochar has re-worked the software to improve the game features so you may want to look into that.

There is a dip switch setting on the MPU for background sound option, not sure if speech is involved there. It's Sw 14. Always power down the game before changing any dip settings.

The VSU-100 board is for the speech. The speech processor chip S14001A often can fail. The problem is it's expensive and herd to find these days. Another thing to look for is a jumper wire on the reverse side of the SB-300. This needs to be there for speech to work. If the board was swapped from a non-speech game it's possible that there is no jumper. see photo. Also make sure the connectors for lamp driver J4 to the VSU-100 are tight. I hope one of these solves the issue.

SB-300 Speech Jumper Wire (resized).png
#917 6 days ago

AH I missed this the first time I looked at the dip switch chart. SW is for Speech (talking feature). SW 17

#918 6 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Yes, I'm almost positive I posted photos when I did mine. Let me search the thread.
Start at Post 232 and go from there.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yes the connections for the wires have a through hole. Solder both sides for the best connection. Keep the connections tight and make sure nothing touches the face of the mounting bracket. There should be a piece of fish paper between the back of the rectifier board and the bracket to prevent shorts.

Why can't I upvote Twice for you Guys??
Thank you both.

#919 6 days ago

Looks like the jumper wire is there (pic). Are these the switches (pic)? Forgot to check the J4.

52269CF0-F925-4DB7-A204-99E23093D33A (resized).jpeg76F037E0-BF98-4E5A-9385-48756DBFE4CC (resized).jpeg
#920 6 days ago

Yes. Looks like it is on already.

#921 6 days ago

Yes that's switch 17 and it's clearly off.

Oops, looked off on my tablet but on my desktop with zoom it's on

Bummer, that would have been an easy fix!

Lots of times the eprom is bad on the speech board - pretty much you want to do EVERYTHING else before deciding that the speech processor (expensive) chip is bad. I've have several vsu-100's that I was sure was the processor, but it turned out to be the 2716's.

#922 6 days ago

This is the J4 right?

A688936E-FF4B-4EB3-8BF0-BD1022DDF4BA (resized).jpeg
#923 6 days ago

Reaper802 and Lovef2k, thanks for the advice. I've got the playfield stood up right now and the ball walk unit out for cleaning while I replace nearby light sockets. As soon as I get that section reassembled, I'll catch up with your suggestions.

I only recently discovered F2K is Steve Ritchey's favorite Stern game. It's funny, 'cause we inherited a Flash earlier this year.

#924 6 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

This is the J4 right?

There's no J4 on the rectifier board only J1-2-3. J4 would be on the other boards.... It's the lower left connector on the MPU board for instance if you are tracing out a power path.

There's also J4 on the solenoid driver (lower right IIRC) and the lamp driver.

#925 5 days ago

Looks like I’ll be starting with the wire in the pic. Do I need to change the white plastic connector piece b/c a wire already burned up in side it? Also, what’s the deal with soldering and crimping? Do you do both, or choose between the two? And also, is my pin reusable or should I put a new on? And also, any chance this wire is the reason the voice doesn’t work (J1 on rectifier board I think)

I know that’s a lot of questions for one wire! But I’m a total noobie and this would be my first time soldering.

Also , still one week in and ripped a huge game this morning for over 3mill so I’m ready to put the game down for a bit to do some repairs!

556FF16C-A2F6-45CB-9BDF-80EC2A73A6A2 (resized).jpeg49E81D4C-69DC-4233-87B1-089F6CC1911C (resized).jpeg5FE2CBF5-8E8A-466B-9DCD-AF8ED0F61E81 (resized).jpeg
#926 5 days ago

You need to replace all of those connectors. Each wire needs to be re-crimped with a new end and installed in the new connector. You need to buy a crimper to do this. They are like $20. Read through this whole thread, all the information is here.

#927 5 days ago

Thanks reaper802

#928 4 days ago

Looks like I won’t be doing any electrical work now as my hardware store and auto parts store don’t have the connectors or terminals.

In the meantime maybe I can address the back glass issue (with y’all’s help of course!) I’ve been playing with the glass off because it is a nice CPR glass but the parts of the score displays (the line of material that runs along the lower front edge) are rubbing against it so whenever I takeoff the back glass and put it back on it rubs off some paint (See pics).

Is this a thing? Am I better off shaving off the front edge of the score display unit or adjusting the whole frame/bracket of it so it sits farther back in the cabinet farther away from the back glass? Thanks again and as always

8BDE9C39-5D45-4D14-8D0F-A4A7C0BDFE1D (resized).jpegD7726571-3922-4D14-9FB9-967954475E5C (resized).jpegDBB6D1AB-E308-4039-A1DF-1EDC0A65862F (resized).jpeg
#929 4 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Looks like I’ll be starting with the wire in the pic. Do I need to change the white plastic connector piece b/c a wire already burned up in side it? Also, what’s the deal with soldering and crimping? Do you do both, or choose between the two? And also, is my pin reusable or should I put a new on? And also, any chance this wire is the reason the voice doesn’t work (J1 on rectifier board I think)
I know that’s a lot of questions for one wire! But I’m a total noobie and this would be my first time soldering.
Also , still one week in and ripped a huge game this morning for over 3mill so I’m ready to put the game down for a bit to do some repairs!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Note: Too permanently fix burnt connectors to the GI circuity, best practice is to remove the
----- GI wires from the two main connectors [ playfield & backbox ]
-----1) add a heavy duty fuse block to side of transformer / bridge distribution board.
-----2) add heavy jumper wires from transformer GI tabs to fuse block.
-----3) add Molex .093 series to freed GI wires, as a quick disconnect.
-----4) solder jumper wires / color matched wires from other end of .093 series to fuse block.
-----5) add 5 amp slow-blow fuses to fuse block.
-----6) Stern GI should be permanently fixed... enjoy!

#930 4 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Looks like I’ll be starting with the wire in the pic. Do I need to change the white plastic connector piece b/c a wire already burned up in side it? Also, what’s the deal with soldering and crimping? Do you do both, or choose between the two? And also, is my pin reusable or should I put a new on? And also, any chance this wire is the reason the voice doesn’t work (J1 on rectifier board I think)
I know that’s a lot of questions for one wire! But I’m a total noobie and this would be my first time soldering.
Also , still one week in and ripped a huge game this morning for over 3mill so I’m ready to put the game down for a bit to do some repairs!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The crimps & housings can be purchased at Pinball Life or Great Plains Electronics ... don't forget the " Key pins"

the "HD-225" crimper on Amazon is pretty good for like $25.oo https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-best-crimp-tool-for-repinning-connectors

Quoted from tyking:

Looks like I won’t be doing any electrical work now as my hardware store and auto parts store don’t have the connectors or terminals.
In the meantime maybe I can address the back glass issue (with y’all’s help of course!) I’ve been playing with the glass off because it is a nice CPR glass but the parts of the score displays (the line of material that runs along the lower front edge) are rubbing against it so whenever I takeoff the back glass and put it back on it rubs off some paint (See pics).
Is this a thing? Am I better off shaving off the front edge of the score display unit or adjusting the whole frame/bracket of it so it sits farther back in the cabinet farther away from the back glass? Thanks again and as always
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WITH THE POWER OFF ( 185VDC hurts pretty bad ) ... make sure the display is fully seated in the bracket ... if it is I would put a washer between the bracket & the back panel to space it further back.

#931 3 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: Too permanently fix burnt connectors to the GI circuity, best practice is to remove the
----- GI wires from the two main connectors [ playfield & backbox ]
-----1) add a heavy duty fuse block to side of transformer / bridge distribution board.
-----2) add heavy jumper wires from transformer GI tabs to fuse block.
-----3) add Molex .093 series to freed GI wires, as a quick disconnect.
-----4) solder jumper wires / color matched wires from other end of .093 series to fuse block.
-----5) add 5 amp slow-blow fuses to fuse block.
-----6) Stern GI should be permanently fixed... enjoy!

Does it look like someone has already added that fuse box? I see what looks like a jumper cable and its connected to the transformer. Thanks

06D36CCD-E490-48A3-BA29-D694D35108F5 (resized).jpeg
#932 3 days ago

No, that's stock to ground the rectifier board plate.

If you get a replacement rectifier board (weebly, others) that has extra heavy duty traces the fix vector recommends isn't needed IMO. Sounds like it's a variation of williams system 7 GI fixing, where it is needed.

#933 3 days ago
Quoted from tyking:

Does it look like someone has already added that fuse box? I see what looks like a jumper cable and its connected to the transformer. Thanks[quoted image]

I did mine back in the 1980's...
The fuse block was heavy duty and was mounted between the base of the rectifier board
and base mounting screws. Kind of where your picture of your speaker is...
I think I used 16 or 14 gauge wire off the transformer.
I never had a problem with the GI sense.

#934 2 days ago

Hi, sorry for the long gap between posts. You'll recall that my F2K would occasionally brown out the feature lights and make crackly sounds through the speaker.

I checked the rectifier board connectors and found J1 #3 (feature lamp bus) and #6 (solenoid bus) each attached by only 2 wire strands. I replaced those 2 connectors and turned the game on and got a small spark at J2 #6 plug (AC power). The crimp fitting seemed to be corroded or burnt. It took a while to get it and its residue out, but I did and replaced that connector.

Now the game seems to power up correctly. Does that make sense to you?

I'd like to look at the solder joints on the rear of the board, but the little brown fittings holding the board to the metal bracket resist removal. Do you have a method to get them out? Does anyone sell new ones in case I break one of the originals?IMG_1534 (resized).JPG

IMG_1535 (resized).JPGIMG_1533 (resized).JPG

#935 1 day ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Hi, sorry for the long gap between posts. You'll recall that my F2K would occasionally brown out the feature lights and make crackly sounds through the speaker.
I checked the rectifier board connectors and found J1 #3 (feature lamp bus) and #6 (solenoid bus) each attached by only 2 wire strands. I replaced those 2 connectors and turned the game on and got a small spark at J2 #6 plug (AC power). The crimp fitting seemed to be corroded or burnt. It took a while to get it and its residue out, but I did and replaced that connector.
Now the game seems to power up correctly. Does that make sense to you?
I'd like to look at the solder joints on the rear of the board, but the little brown fittings holding the board to the metal bracket resist removal. Do you have a method to get them out? Does anyone sell new ones in case I break one of the originals?[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

First couple of times I discovered using a Bic pen slipped over the nipple, compressed it enough to remove the board from it. Then I discovered the shaft of a screwdriver I had was the correct size for me https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-71281H/302735272

The Standoff brackets are readily available in different sizes ( the space between the circuit board and the metal bracket ) ... you'll have to measure it I don't have my F2k near by ) https://www.pinballlife.com/spacersstandoffs.html

You'll have to remove the 3 screws for the rectifiers, to replace you will need some new "Thermal paste" A computer store or an auto parts store should have some
-or- amazon.com link »

#936 1 day ago
Quoted from clodpole:

but the little brown fittings holding the board to the metal bracket resist removal. Do you have a method to get them out?

Go to the hardware store and get a piece of brass tube that fits over brown stand off. Or you can take a pair of needle nose pliers and lightly squeeze the standoff to release the fastening barbs.

You can buy various lengths:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=stand%20off

You can also get them at Marco (Marco's website is down so no link ).

IMG_4182 (resized).JPG

IMG_4183 (resized).JPG

#937 1 day ago

Thanks! BTW, please explain thermal paste.

#938 1 day ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Thanks! BTW, please explain thermal paste.

Semiconductors that carry a lot of current can dissipate a lot of heat. Heat is their enemy and will shorten their lives. In your case it's the bridge rectifiers, particularly the one for the feature lamps.
To disperse heat away from these semiconductors, they can be attached to a metal heatsink. The more surface contact between the semiconductor and the heatsink means you get better heat transfer away from the semiconductor that the heatsink can disperse. Neither of the contact surfaces are going to be perfectly flat, so thermal transfer paste is applied between the two to fill in the microscopic spaces/pits and improve thermal conductivity through greater surface contact between the two.

#939 1 day ago

Adding, that when you use thermal paste - don't glop it all over the place. You want a *thin* layer; too much and it will act as an insulator.

#940 1 day ago
Quoted from slochar:

Adding, that when you use thermal paste - don't glop it all over the place. You want a *thin* layer; too much and it will act as an insulator.

Right, the thermal transfer paste is used to fill in the spaces, that's all. It won't beat metal to metal contact so you don't use too much that becomes an insulator.

BTW, not all thermal transfer pastes are created equal..

#941 1 day ago

Does anyone have pictures of how the big long 5 drop target assy is put back together? I took it apart and I forgot to take pictures and want to make sure it’s put back correctly.

#942 1 day ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Does anyone have pictures of how the big long 5 drop target assy is put back together? I took it apart and I forgot to take pictures and want to make sure it’s put back correctly.

From when I did the same, just recently..

DSC_2737 (resized).JPGDSC_2738 (resized).JPGDSC_2739 (resized).JPGDSC_2740 (resized).JPGDSC_2741 (resized).JPG
#943 1 day ago

Hey, thanks for the info on thermal paste, and I'm happy to see the recent pics of drop target "toaster" as well. Mine'll come apart for cleaning soon.

Meanwhile, I forgot to post this answer to "Why does my machine belch loudly on power-up?" which I got from Andrew at weebly:

"I have found that increasing the C7 12v filter cap's value on the board to 2200uF-4700uF gets rid of the power on belch and any background hum as well. I think 1000uF is just hardly big enough.

I noticed after switching brands from Panasonic to the Nichicon general purpose I had more hum and power on noise than older boards built with panasonic caps for what its worth too. I tried 4700uF and the hum went away and was silent at power up. 2200uF or 3300uF should be fine to use too.

something like this should fit (1.5" long) if you are on an original board.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-4700uF-25V-RMD "

I'm going to try the higher value capacitor he suggests and see if I can lose the max-volume belch when our machine is powered on.

#944 22 hours ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Hey, thanks for the info on thermal paste, and I'm happy to see the recent pics of drop target "toaster" as well. Mine'll come apart for cleaning soon.
Meanwhile, I forgot to post this answer to "Why does my machine belch loudly on power-up?" which I got from Andrew at weebly:
"I have found that increasing the C7 12v filter cap's value on the board to 2200uF-4700uF gets rid of the power on belch and any background hum as well. I think 1000uF is just hardly big enough.
I noticed after switching brands from Panasonic to the Nichicon general purpose I had more hum and power on noise than older boards built with panasonic caps for what its worth too. I tried 4700uF and the hum went away and was silent at power up. 2200uF or 3300uF should be fine to use too.
something like this should fit (1.5" long) if you are on an original board.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-4700uF-25V-RMD "
I'm going to try the higher value capacitor he suggests and see if I can lose the max-volume belch when our machine is powered on.

On which board please?

#945 19 hours ago
Quoted from HPR:

On which board please?

Well, that's a good question. I'm presuming at C7 on the sound board, but....

Perhaps a more expert Pinsider will chime in here?

#946 16 hours ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Well, that's a good question. I'm presuming at C7 on the sound board, but....

Yes, barakandl was talking about capacitor C7 on the Stern SB-300 sound board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/humming-sound-in-old-sterns#post-5765272

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
From: $ 155.00
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 49.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
From: $ 155.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Fort Worth, TX
From: $ 10.00
From: $ 14.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
There are 946 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 19.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside