(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by chas10e
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There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 47.
#801 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

I never use the dimples unless I can verify they are 100% correct on where I want the guide to go.
Marco used to have original stern/game plan flipper bats so it's very possible those are them. I don't think anyone's got the correct repro ones though, unless Pinball Life's are.

Agree i don’t trust Dimples at all, on either the top or bottom side. So what i want to determine is what the transition is supposed to look like. The same with the flipper batt orientation to the inlane guides. On a Williams you simply line them up so the batts are parallel with the guides. But on F2K there are pins that line up the tips which are a dropped way down. Never looked right but its a classic stern, not a williams. And maybe that orientation is required to hit the shots? Sweeping the three bank target is something i want to be able to do for example.

#802 3 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

Agree i don’t trust Dimples at all, on either the top or bottom side. So what i want to determine is what the transition is supposed to look like. The same with the flipper batt orientation to the inlane guides. On a Williams you simply line them up so the batts are parallel with the guides. But on F2K there are pins that line up the tips which are a dropped way down. Never looked right but its a classic stern, not a williams. And maybe that orientation is required to hit the shots? Sweeping the three bank target is something i want to be able to do for example.

Do you have an OEM playfield?
The flippers are pitched slightly down.
Look at ipdb for Stern Flight 2000.

#803 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Do you have an OEM playfield?
The flippers are pitched slightly down.
Look at ipdb for Stern Flight 2000.

I have two populated pf’s (one from the game). I’m repopulating a CPR i picked up a few years ago. This is my second F2K project. Yes all of them have pins that the flippers rest on, which had them pitched down (i prob exaggerate when i say way down lol). Always seemed odd to me. Not sure i’ll put the pins back in on the new one. There are no reference marks (dimples) for them to worry about seeing.

#804 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?
Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?[quoted image]

Send me the step files. I will also do a 3D printed test fit and I have a laser table at work I can do the stainless on.

#805 3 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

I have two populated pf’s (one from the game). I’m repopulating a CPR i picked up a few years ago. This is my second F2K project. Yes all of them have pins that the flippers rest on, which had them pitched down (i prob exaggerate when i say way down lol). Always seemed odd to me. Not sure i’ll put the pins back in on the new one. There are no reference marks (dimples) for them to worry about seeing.

O.K. All I know is that the left flipper has to make the right spinner shot.
If the flippers are raised it would be very difficult for the left flipper to make
that shot. ( you would have to be use the tip of the flipper ).

#806 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Send me the step files. I will also do a 3D printed test fit and I have a laser table at work I can do the stainless on.

I need to get new digital scans of the plastics. I had two different people try my first round of traces and they were both too long some how. All I can guess is that the scanner at work distorted the image somehow.

Once I can get new scans I'll retrace in Fusion 360 for another print test. Good to know we have someone who can cut stainless!

#807 3 years ago

If anyone is has the hardware to scan their inlane plastics and send me the images it would be greatly appreciated. If you could print the scans and make sure the printed images matches the original that would be even better. I did the first runs on the scanner at work and it messed them up somehow. Work is closed until who knows when so I can't get new scans done.

#808 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

O.K. All I know is that the left flipper has to make the right spinner shot.
If the flippers are raised it would be very difficult for the left flipper to make
that shot. ( you would have to be use the tip of the flipper ).

Thanks, that’s what i was wondering. The angle is required to hit those outside shots properly. When i get the flippers in i’ll set them to “factory”. At least with these Nothing is permanent and i can adjust as required .

#809 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

If anyone is has the hardware to scan their inlane plastics and send me the images it would be greatly appreciated. If you could print the scans and make sure the printed images matches the original that would be even better. I did the first runs on the scanner at work and it messed them up somehow. Work is closed until who knows when so I can't get new scans done.

Give me a few minutes. I will just scan mine and draw them up in solidworks.

#810 3 years ago

I have a new set of plastics to install so i scanned them. i noticed when stacking them they are not the same right to left side.

#811 3 years ago

Note: when scanning objects to reproduce I always
thought it would be safer to scan the objects left to right,
right to left, top to bottom, and bottom to top.
Then, stitch all images together to eliminate all variables
from the scans.

#812 3 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

What I am currently concerned about (or having a closer look) is how the inlane plastic aligned with the flipper bushing hole

You cannot align to the flipper bushing hole. You need to have your flippers installed and see how the guide lines up with the flipper base circle. Ideally, IMO, you want the guide to be just a few thousandths above the flipper base. This gives you a smooth transition from the guide to the flipper, i.e. your ball will not miss a beat.

And unless you want to start making a custom guide and exercising your math skills, the easiest way to correct the problem is drill a new hole in the proper position.

#813 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You cannot align to the flipper bushing hole. You need to have your flippers installed and see how the guide lines up with the flipper base circle. Ideally, IMO, you want the guide to be just a few thousandths above the flipper base. This gives you a smooth transition from the guide to the flipper, i.e. your ball will not miss a beat.
And unless you want to start making a custom guide and exercising your math skills, the easiest way to correct the problem is drill a new hole in the proper position.

You can always just slightly slot all the holes in the vertical direction so that will let you move the plastic up or down.

#814 3 years ago
Screenshot 2020-04-11 20.17.27 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-04-11 20.17.27 (resized).png
#815 3 years ago

i know the slots are the wrong way in the pic but it was to show intent.

#816 3 years ago

there fixed.....

Screenshot 2020-04-11 20.22.20 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-04-11 20.22.20 (resized).png
#817 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

there fixed.....[quoted image]

Awesome work. Did you try a test print yet?

#818 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

there fixed.....[quoted image]

This design should work fine. But you will need to make a modification to get any benefit of the slots you added.

I borrowed a picture. Just behind the wire guide you can see "the bell". It is nothing more than a spacer. It is cinched into the plastic guide with sort of special press used to do such things. Multiples are cinched into each plastic guide. This this is production measure to make it easy for the line worker to grab one assembly and set it into position.

The bells, or spacers, will need to be removed from the guide in order to use these custom slotted guides. When you remove these spacers you will need to grind off the area that was used to cinch the bell spacer and the plastic guide together. You will have to do this or you not be able to this bell spacer with the custom slotted units.

Or you can remove the bell spacers and replace them with nylon spacers. Be advised that nylon spacers are not cheap.

Either way, using these custom slotted guides would give you all kinds of adjustment possibilities.

2918bfe2db71da8e0e85519ddd981eb54d6c11ed.jpeg (resized).jpg2918bfe2db71da8e0e85519ddd981eb54d6c11ed.jpeg (resized).jpg

#819 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

there fixed.....[quoted image]

Do you have an STL file for them? It would be good to export each one out separately for printing/machining.

#820 3 years ago

wolffcub How did the test prints come out?

1 week later
#821 3 years ago

wolffcub you still out there?

#822 3 years ago

This is one of the NOS playfields sold on Ebay last year.
It has been clearcoated, but the acryl paint pen used around the inserts (which were cupped) unfortunately "opened up" a bit during the process.
But all in all I'm happy with the result - just need to sort out a few of the lamp sockets, but it's fully working and a fun game !
2020-04-23 21.03.10 (resized).jpg2020-04-23 21.03.10 (resized).jpg2020-04-23 21.04.01 (resized).jpg2020-04-23 21.04.01 (resized).jpg2020-04-23 21.04.27 (resized).jpg2020-04-23 21.04.27 (resized).jpg

#823 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

This is one of the NOS playfields sold on Ebay last year.
It has been clearcoated, but the acryl paint pen used around the inserts (which were cupped) unfortunately "opened up" a bit during the process.
But all in all I'm happy with the result - just need to sort out a few of the lamp sockets, but it's fully working and a fun game ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome! Enjoy the game.

#824 3 years ago

Let's turn your pics so everybody can see them. Pinside gives you a way to do that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinside-pictures

de6e77aaee2108ede88ae88a7f4248a5e944cf39 (resized).jpgde6e77aaee2108ede88ae88a7f4248a5e944cf39 (resized).jpgd50f00244f6d598ace182343214ed535b67faa54 (resized).jpgd50f00244f6d598ace182343214ed535b67faa54 (resized).jpg341397cfedbbb0b7786af0c94472ea6c3dc69590 (resized).jpg341397cfedbbb0b7786af0c94472ea6c3dc69590 (resized).jpg

#825 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Let's turn your pics so everybody can see them. Pinside gives you a way to do that.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinside-pictures
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks cottonm4 , I didn't know that !
Learning something new every day.

#826 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Thanks cottonm4 , I didn't know that !
Learning something new every day.

You are welcome. I wish to would edit your post and put them up again so I can look at them in the huge close up size.

Thank you.

#827 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

This is one of the NOS playfields sold on Ebay last year.
It has been clearcoated, but the acryl paint pen used around the inserts (which were cupped) unfortunately "opened up" a bit during the process.
But all in all I'm happy with the result - just need to sort out a few of the lamp sockets, but it's fully working and a fun game ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Love me some F2K, even at a 90 degree angle LOL!

#828 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Love me some F2K, even at a 90 degree angle LOL!

Well, you know, living on the other side of the globe from you, up here is not up for you

#829 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Well, you know, living on the other side of the globe from you, up here is not up for you

Uff da!

1 week later
#830 3 years ago

Occasionally the ball walker doesn't let one ball through - so 2 balls get caught in the same entry.
Is this a switch issue or a mechanical issue ?
... and is it advised to lube the walker mech with grease, something else - or nothing ?

2020-05-06 21.03.50-1 (resized).jpg2020-05-06 21.03.50-1 (resized).jpg
#831 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Occasionally the ball walker doesn't let one ball through - so 2 balls get caught in the same entry.
Is this a switch issue or a mechanical issue ?
... and is it advised to lube the walker mech with grease, something else - or nothing ?
[quoted image]

I had the same problem. it was the clearcoat finish keeping the ball from rolling down. Try to increase the pitch of the play field. If that doesn't work you may have to cut a groove in the clearcoat with sand paper folded so that you can cut a straight line. This will allow the balls to flow better.

#832 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

there fixed.....[quoted image]

wolffcub did you ever test them? Are you going to make the file available?

#833 3 years ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Occasionally the ball walker doesn't let one ball through - so 2 balls get caught in the same entry.
Is this a switch issue or a mechanical issue ?
... and is it advised to lube the walker mech with grease, something else - or nothing ?
[quoted image]

I had the same problem as well. Even increasing the pitch did not help. I drop or two of 3-in-1 oil did the trick.

#834 3 years ago
Quoted from Winger03:

I had the same problem as well. Even increasing the pitch did not help. I drop or two of 3-in-1 oil did the trick.

That may be a temporary fix. When I restored my game I completely disassembled the Walker assembly. replaced the nyliners with new and applied white lithium grease where it had been originally from factory.

I have noticed this problem with other clear coated pfs where the clear will create a "dam" and block slow rolling balls. F2k had 2 places where this happened on my game. The walker and trough area.

#835 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That may be a temporary fix. When I restored my game I completely disassembled the Walker assembly. replaced the nyliners with new and applied white lithium grease where it had been originally from factory.
I have noticed this problem with other clear coated pfs where the clear will create a "dam" and block slow rolling balls. F2k had 2 places where this happened on my game. The walker and trough area.

Interesting - I am little worried if I disassembled the walker I'd not get it back together correctly.

#836 3 years ago
Quoted from Winger03:

Interesting - I am little worried if I disassembled the walker I'd not get it back together correctly.

It's not that difficult. take pics as you do it.

#837 3 years ago

I had same problem with my walker. Also had a clearcoat on Playfield. Lovef2k is correct. I did a full topside teardown this past summer and used a piece of folded sandpaper to make an easier path/groove and then tested. Made a world of difference. Only happens 1/20 times now on average.

#838 3 years ago

Yup - also had the same problem, on original playfield. Increasing pitch helped, problem went away entirely with installation of a playfield protector.

#839 3 years ago

I had the opposite problem on my old playfield there was a divot where the ball hits the walker preventing it from walking. That one I put a small playfield pin in the area which moved the ball off the groove/divot to the right so it could fall properly.

#840 3 years ago

The b Light in my left Inlane is Locked in and I can’t determine why. All other controlled lamps are fine.

#841 3 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

The b Light in my left Inlane is Locked in and I can’t determine why. All other controlled lamps are fine.

Try a bad SCR.

1 week later
#842 3 years ago

Our previously happy F2K has a new behavior: it "belches" on power-up differently than it did (the sound it makes is different) and the GI and sound will suddenly try to drop out as if the machine is resetting. Sometimes just after power-up, sometimes during play.

I checked wall voltage (116vac), but my multimeter won't show random transient dips. Any other ideas come to mind?

My next thought is to look for a loose connector on the power supply or a fuse problem.

#843 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

wolffcub did you ever test them? Are you going to make the file available?

wolffcub where did you go?

#844 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Our previously happy F2K has a new behavior: it "belches" on power-up differently than it did (the sound it makes is different) and the GI and sound will suddenly try to drop out as if the machine is resetting. Sometimes just after power-up, sometimes during play.
I checked wall voltage (116vac), but my multimeter won't show random transient dips. Any other ideas come to mind?
My next thought is to look for a loose connector on the power supply or a fuse problem.

If you recently changed the MPU to a new production board you will get the belch, mine does it ad it's annoying. It can also could be the addition of new sound ribbon cables. I'm pretty sure if you disrupt the connections of pins 33 and 34 from either J5 MPU or at the top connector of the SB-300 as they are not used. It doesn't hurt anything. Ask Andrew Spitler about what causes it. He is nvram.weebly.com

It is also mentioned on Pinside but I forget what thread, it may even be this one.

I would definitely re-pin all the connectors on the rectifier board. You can also have a failing BR1 or 2 cause the drops in the GI and sound. Transformers rarely go bad, but you're doing the right thing starting at the power supply first. Do the GI's dim when activating flippers?

If you still suspect the wall outlet voltage is a problem, try running a fan from there and listen for changes in motor speed.

Get familiar with the site if you haven't done so: pinwiki.com Bally/Stern section.

#845 3 years ago

Thanks, I'll try the fan experiment. As for the belch, this machine has always done it on startup; what changed was the actual sound of the belch. It's got a new version!

#846 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Our previously happy F2K has a new behavior: it "belches" on power-up differently than it did (the sound it makes is different) and the GI and sound will suddenly try to drop out as if the machine is resetting. Sometimes just after power-up, sometimes during play.
I checked wall voltage (116vac), but my multimeter won't show random transient dips. Any other ideas come to mind?
My next thought is to look for a loose connector on the power supply or a fuse problem.

I'll tell you my recent experience with sounds. My classic Stern Catacomb made a nasty crackling noise on start up only. I put in a new rectifier board which was of no help. I installed a new speaker which was of no help. The other day I screwed up and blew out my sound board. I installed a replacement sound board I had. Now my start ups are nice and quiet.

In my long list of things to do, trouble shooting a sound board is not on top of my list.

Weebly sells new sound boards for these if you are interested.

#847 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Thanks, I'll try the fan experiment. As for the belch, this machine has always done it on startup; what changed was the actual sound of the belch. It's got a new version!

#848 3 years ago

I'm gonna' need a bigger fan....

#849 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The other day I screwed up and blew out my sound board. I installed a replacement sound board I had. Now my start ups are nice and quiet.

I'm glad to hear your screwup ended with a good result. Hey - is NuWay selling food? I could go for a root beer and crumbly burger! There's not much to eat up here in our corner of the U.S.

#850 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

wolffcub where did you go?

You need to say my name 3 times in a row while looking in a mirror then i will appear.

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