(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!

By Snux

8 years ago


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There are 2,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 47.
#751 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

SLING GI:
Has anyone swapped out the 4 bracketed lamp sockets for surface-level mount? I would think it would bring more light to that area. (or did factory just put the wrong ones in mine?)

Several of my Sterns have lamp sockets that sit way below play field level. They are a PIA to R & R bulbs from. I do not know why Stern set them so low other then if the production line ran out of the "correct" sockets and threw in what they had to keep the line moving.

#752 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I wonder what kind of hard clear (or black) plastic tubing could be used and cut to make a set of spacers to raise the PF plastics above clear flipper guides?
-mof

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-spacers.html

Man, you can buy white spacers, or black spacers and some longer screws and lay down your clear plastic, then spacer, the the broken, or even repro plastic, and screw them all down. Now your clear repair plastic takes the hit while the factory plastic sits above out of harm's way. A 1/4" spacer is all you need.

#753 3 years ago
Quoted from RonniN:

Thank you, and at least it works, i could have been a little more precise with the sanding, but only had a dremel and some sandpaper.
Here is a picture of both sides done:[quoted image]

Nice job.

While neither of us speaks German, the German Ebaty site does not speak English. And no offense, I looked at the Pinside map and thought you were in Germany, not Denmark.

#754 3 years ago

Because Stern did install #44 sockets that have the bulb sitting low, I learned to mod a socket to sit the bulb at any depth I want.

IMG_3296 (resized).JPGIMG_3296 (resized).JPG

IMG_3297 (resized).JPGIMG_3297 (resized).JPG

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#755 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

learned to mod a socket

Wait a second... from one great idea...

#756 3 years ago

Would this work?
"The Cotton-Mof maneuver"

2-bends (resized).jpg2-bends (resized).jpg

#757 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Would this work?[quoted image]

You could do that. The metal bracket is very easy to bend. And if the metal bracket is not long enough, you can solder two pieces together. It is an easy metal to solder.

Although, I cannot see a practical use for #3.

#758 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

practical use

turn all these into flush mounts!

#759 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You could do that. The metal bracket is very easy to bend. And if the metal bracket is not long enough, you can solder two pieces together. It is an easy metal to solder.
Although, I cannot see a practical use for #3.

Before pinbal replacement parts made those 555 lamp boards for Big Game, I was going to make my own by bending and soldering sockets to a piece of metal.

#760 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

turn all these into flush mounts!

There are all kinds of possibilities.

#761 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

There are all kinds of possibilities.

Also, never throw a bad socket away without first cutting off the extra bracket material. That easily bendable bracket material makes for some good custom brackets down the road.

#762 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Although, I cannot see a practical use for #3.

LOL #3 is the winner winner chicken dinner judo move.

#2 -- is the one I would worry about if you stopped there, lol

#763 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

if you're going LED, I don't see why you can't use the staple down sockets.

The only lamps i would LED are GI. Mainly to prevent warping plastics and other related heat damage. Which may not even be a real concern in a home environment.

Controlled lamps i’m going with 47’s instead of the 44’s. I’d prefer to keep all incandescent but i think there are some more conventional looking led’s on the market today.

I know somewhere to had posted which style you chose for your game - something more retro?

#764 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

LOL #3 is the winner winner chicken dinner judo move.
#2 -- is the one I would worry about if you stopped there, lol

What's to worry about .

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#765 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What's to worry about

To be clear, that is not #2

#766 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

To be clear, that is not #2

Cut the long tail off of the #2 you drew, drill a hole, and we have twins.

#767 3 years ago

Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?

Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?

20200403_142127 (resized).jpg20200403_142127 (resized).jpg
#768 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?
Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?[quoted image]

Do you have the STL files? I could possibly try running a 3D print to compare with my machine. I plan on making face masks but may be able to slip this in between runs.

#769 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Do you have the STL files? I could possibly try running a 3D print to compare with my machine. I plan on making face masks but may be able to slip this in between runs.

Yes I can generate an STL file. Hit me with a PM and email address and I'll send it over.

#770 3 years ago

I would like to try also, got a 3D printer next to me.

#771 3 years ago

What is the part # for the two trough switches? (or just a link to a vendor)

Is it true they are the same switches in the coin door?

thanks!
-mof

#772 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What is the part # for the two trough switches? (or just a link to a vendor)
Is it true they are the same switches in the coin door?
thanks!
-mof

Im pretty sure its the same kind of switch, its something like this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-CCS312

#773 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?
Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?[quoted image]

Thank you for doing this!
If anyone makes them out of metal, I should be in for a set

#774 3 years ago

Ponoko do made to order laser cutting, including stainless steel. Could be an option, would be interesting to see how many fit on a sheet to bring the costs down...

https://www.ponoko.com/

Edit: looks like they don’t laser cut stainless, but use a different method - http://www2.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/show-material/603-metal-stainless-steel

#775 3 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Inlane guides have now been digitized in Fusion 360. Anyone want to do a test 3D print to make sure I scaled the scans correctly?
Once they are verified does anyone have access to a CNC laser cutter that can handle 1/16" stainless steel?[quoted image]

Try Cliffy,

https://www.passionforpinball.com/products.htm

#776 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What is the part # for the two trough switches? (or just a link to a vendor)
Is it true they are the same switches in the coin door?
thanks!
-mof

Quoted from RonniN:

Im pretty sure its the same kind of switch, its something like this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-CCS312

Screw the one from Marco priced at $25.00. Pinball life has them for $7.95 each.

https://www.pinballlife.com/coin-door-switch.html

These are the same switches used on Nine Ball for its multi-ball trough switches. And they are also Bally and Stern coin door switches. I'm guessing F2K will be the same. You will need to bend the trip wires for your application.

These switches used to be made by Cherry Company. I don't know PL's source for these.

Stern's production schedule was: Flight 2000 then Nine Ball.

After Nine Ball came Freefall, Split Second and Catacomb; these three used a completely different type of multi-ball launcher.

#777 3 years ago

Yes, F2k's trough is the same switches as 9 ball's. The trough switch design for FF, SS, and Catacomb is way better, I wish there was a way to retrofit that type.
Heck, even a way to put leaf switches in there, I prefer leafs - you can see the adjustment so much better, and their MTBF is way higher than a microswitches'.

#778 3 years ago

I can add its the same switches in the Bally slotmachines also for coin mech's, kinda interesting since those switches are unobtainium here in Denmark, now i know what to look for next time i need one of those.

And to be a little bit on topic also, my Flight 2000 is coming together nicely:

20200404_200006 (resized).jpg20200404_200006 (resized).jpg
#779 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, F2k's trough is the same switches as 9 ball's. The trough switch design for FF, SS, and Catacomb is way better, I wish there was a way to retrofit that type.
Heck, even a way to put leaf switches in there, I prefer leafs - you can see the adjustment so much better, and their MTBF is way higher than a microswitches'.

I have thought about that, too. So much, that I even bought the assembly from a Split Second off of Ebay to have in case I figure out how to do it. Mechanically, I think I could make it fit in my NB, but I don't know if it could be incorporated it electronically.

#780 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have thought about that, too. So much, that I even bought the assembly from a Split Second off of Ebay to have in case I figure out how to do it. Mechanically, I think I could make it fit in my NB, but I don't know if it could be incorporated it electronically.

If you still need 2 solenoids to do it, you'd have to change the coin lockout to be one of them as there are no solenoid drives free in there to change the software. Or make the trough gravity fed somehow like the original is. I suppose you could wire it in hardware, anytime the outhole switch closed, fire the 'move over' coil via a one-shot (like a gottlieb pop bumper driver board) - that could work.

This trough is really bad in the way it launches balls over, at least on flight, with the one design, because the balls travel back UP the switches, either mangling them like my f2k, or reactivating the switch, which in some cases sticks 2 balls in the shooter lane (rarely, but can happen). The game recovers nicely from this, it doesn't end early or anything if one ball drains like some games would.

#781 3 years ago

My plate is full ATM, but I will get my SS parts out of the box and see. what might possible. It would be better if I could come up with something on the mechanical side that could at least be reproduced as there would not be enough SS, FF, or Catacomb salvage parts to help anyone out.

When I opened up my Catacomb and saw that multi-ball launch set up, it was love at first sight.

#782 3 years ago

On my Fight 2000, I add the metal pins in the trough area so as to make the balls
move in a single line... No lofting left or right. It worked for a longtime on route.

#784 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

? got pics ?

I would have to get the machine out of storage.
But I believe I used two steel pins to make sure the ball
moves in a straight line over the wire forms.
The pins are mounted on the upper right side so
the balls can use the left wall as a guide.
Again, the objective was to keep the balls from any chance
of bouncing/lofting left to right against the rollover wire actuators.
No sneaking around the outhole switches.
1/8" or less, 3/32" max clearance (approx) from,
wall + ball "==" steel pin.
You would have to set the game up with the three balls in the outhole.
Then take a steel pin and test fit next to the middle ball/switch3rd ball... and find
the best position for the ball to travel freely and yet not float about the top of the switch.
If I can get to the game and dig it out of storage I well do my best to get a picture
of the outhole...

#785 3 years ago

Coming together. Really just the clears for the maze and then the in-lanes to go back in. Pops are all rebuilt just not mounted yet.

I have the Pinbits clear plastic set for the maze, which comes with clear plastic protectors for the in-lanes as well. So with those i’m wondering if i need to add the metal wire guides also. I don’t like the way they make the ball hop at the flipper (at least the ones on the two pf’s i have were installed that way).

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#786 3 years ago

Those metal guides were added later. A service bulletin was made available back then. I know about the ball hop but always figured it was because of the low inlane guide not the wire.

I guess it's just preference at this point. You can make it 2 layers by adding more stands offs like ebd. I'm thinking of doing that to mine.

#787 3 years ago

Ahhh... ball hop, a.k.a. "jump the rail". It teaches you to avoid swatting at the ball when it's moving fast.

#788 3 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Ahhh... ball hop, a.k.a. "jump the rail". It teaches you to avoid swatting at the ball when it's moving fast.

"Ball hop" refers to when traveling down the inlane towards the flipper, when the ball reaches the heel of the flipper it gives a little hop instead of continuing to travel smoothly.

Aggravating if you like to play "on the fly"

A flipper jump is even more aggravating and I've experienced that too

#789 3 years ago

Yeah, I see what you're referring to with "ball hop". I and some friends have Williams Flash games very prone to ball hop.

#790 3 years ago
Quoted from chas10e:

when the ball reaches the heel of the flipper it gives a little hop instead of continuing to travel smoothly.

That is because the ball hits the vertical leg of the wire form.
If the wire form is lower to just bellow the center point of the ball
then the "hop" is eliminated do to the fact the ball would be riding
on the complete length of the horizontal wire plane.

#791 3 years ago

Here is flipper hop. It does not refer to the ball jumping over the flipper and draining. Thats' a different animal. Flipper hop is the ball being pushed up out of the flipper's reach.

See how the right hand inlane guide is below the flipper base circle. This pin had been in a kid's basement for 20 years. I don't know how they managed to play it because making any kind of contact with the ball was near impossible.

c01a404555ad6bc3aceddbd3af6a4aa494243770.png (resized).jpgc01a404555ad6bc3aceddbd3af6a4aa494243770.png (resized).jpg

The fix is to get a piece of plastic or a piece of sheet metal and drill a .93 hole. Then place the ball guide tip in to the hole and slide the plastic and the guide into position, tape the plastic to the play field to maintain position, remove the guide and drill the .093 hole. End of flipper hop problem.

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#792 3 years ago

Another problem with flipper hop on the early Sterns is that the original flipper bats are NLA. The reproductions are fatter and causes a not so smooth transition to the flipper from the inlane.

#793 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Another problem with flipper hop on the early Sterns is that the original flipper bats are NLA. The reproductions are fatter and causes a not so smooth transition to the flipper from the inlane.

Can you post some pictures showing the plastic flipper bat outer axis diameter width difference between original and new bats?

#794 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is flipper hop. It does not refer to the ball jumping over the flipper and draining. Thats' a different animal. Flipper hop is the ball being pushed up out of the flipper's reach.
See how the right hand inlane guide is below the flipper base circle. This pin had been in a kid's basement for 20 years. I don't know how they managed to play it because making any kind of contact with the ball was near impossible.
[quoted image]
The fix is to get a piece of plastic or a piece of sheet metal and drill a .93 hole. Then place the ball guide tip in to the hole and slide the plastic and the guide into position, tape the plastic to the play field to maintain position, remove the guide and drill the .093 hole. End of flipper hop problem.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I have never seen that kind of misalignment before... that is bad.

#795 3 years ago

I’m interested in the proper use of these wire guides on f2k. Neither of my pf’s looked correct, as the one end is under the plastic whereas the one at the flipper is way out. So it creates this ramp. If i use the dimples which i know are only suggestions it would do the dame thing as in these pics.

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#796 3 years ago

That is correct according to the service bulletin. It's the way I did mine on the swap as well, it's very slightly up from the plastic, and I have no flipper hop (I actually installed the guides last, to ensure this.)

There is a VERY slight adjustment available on the flipper mechs, normally you want the bushing centered exactly in the hole, but for flipper hop you can move it down (You have to fill the holes or rotate the assembly to bite into new wood, adjusting the bat later on). I use a spare coil sleeve to help center the flipper mech in the hole.

#797 3 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

I’m interested in the proper use of these wire guides on f2k. Neither of my pf’s looked correct, as the one end is under the plastic whereas the one at the flipper is way out. So it creates this ramp. If i use the dimples which i know are only suggestions it would do the dame thing as in these pics.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from slochar:

That is correct according to the service bulletin. It's the way I did mine on the swap as well, it's very slightly up from the plastic, and I have no flipper hop (I actually installed the guides last, to ensure this.)
There is a VERY slight adjustment available on the flipper mechs, normally you want the bushing centered exactly in the hole, but for flipper hop you can move it down (You have to fill the holes or rotate the assembly to bite into new wood, adjusting the bat later on). I use a spare coil sleeve to help center the flipper mech in the hole.

I did mine so as the wire form just peeps out from the tip of the plastic.
It is almost in parallel to the plastic piece itself.

#798 3 years ago

Mine has the two Service Bulletin wires installed and both of my factory guides are just as bad as everybody else's.

When I get around to doing mine, I will toss the two wire guides.

Then I will remove the "bells" from the factory plastic inline guides.

I will cut two pieces of polycarbonate/Lexan to match the factory guides and also drill them to match.

Then I will use some Gorilla Glue to attach the "bells" to my custom poly guides. These will be the guides the ball makes contact with.

Then I will get some 1/8" or 1/4" spacers and longer screws and put these spacers between the factory guides and my poly guides.

The poly guides will take all of the impact and the factory units will be spaced up and out of harms way.

#799 3 years ago

Interesting. So these wire guides are just to protect the tips of the inlane plastics which are typically broken off? When i bought new clears for the maze from Pinbits, I also got a plastic protector kit. Has some pcs for behind the large drop target, and clears for the inlane plastics.

What I am currently concerned about (or having a closer look) is how the inlane plastic aligned with the flipper bushing hole. It looks to me like there will be a drop to the base of the flipper vs the base of the flipper being above the guide to cause a hop. I may need to drop my inlane plastics a bit. The dimples for the wire guides look ok relative to the original pf. all the dimples for the 4 bell posts lined up to the holes in my plastics.

As for my flipper batts. I bought repros (Marco i think? i was a long time ago) and i finder them thinner not fatter than the ones that came off my original ones. I can't say they are original of course, but they look the same as what is in my Seawitch.

#800 3 years ago

I never use the dimples unless I can verify they are 100% correct on where I want the guide to go.

Marco used to have original stern/game plan flipper bats so it's very possible those are them. I don't think anyone's got the correct repro ones though, unless Pinball Life's are.

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