Could use a system 80 pop bumper driver board.

Or use the lamp 2N5060 #31 to a MOC3011... to a solenoid circuitry. Etc,etc,etc.

How about firing both popbumpers at the same time

You can't do that on the solenoid driver board hardware. The 4 continuous solenoids can activate with one of the momentary, but there's no way to have it fire 2 momentary solenoids at the same time since it's a 4 to 16 decoder.

It uses the coin lockout coil, repurposed, or as discovered when disassembling the code, the game already provides a signal you can use for the knocker on the lamp. Anyone that wants to add it right away can do this now with the stock code, although there are no tests to fire the knocker vs. not in lamp test.

It's convenient to use the lockout coil driver circuit because all the wiring is already present in the cabinet, where it needs to be.

Also, I didn't eliminate the sound at all, it still makes the sound, and knocks. I reused that sound as well for the skill shot successful sound effect on the top rollover lanes.

Hi, everyone. I'm almost done with my F2K rebuild with a CPR playfield. When I was taking apart the F2K, someone who previously owned the machine redid some connectors in the backbox and in doing so tangled up a lot of the backbox wiring. I had to cut all of the wires from the back side of the backbox door for the lamps and I'm having a hard time matching up my cuts now with what I did like 4 years ago (I should have taken a picture). I was wondering if someone could take a picture of the inside of the backbox door where the lamps are? This would be on the backside of the backbox door, specifically. I also need a picture of the switch right below the slam tilt mechanism. Thanks!

I figured out the switch is the slam switch, the tab that should be there to solder the yellow wires on is busted off. I still need a picture of the back of the backbox door, though. If anyone has a few minutes to take a picture of that, I would really appreciate it. Thank-you for your time.

Awesome. Thank-you!

Only had my F2K for 2 weeks....still learning.
I get 7 dongs/beeps when I turn it on, does this mean anything?
I also cannot get the 2 service switches to activate and work. Traced wires, all attached and plugged in. Finally, yesterday I got another noise playing with the 2 service switches, looked up and displays where dark. Could never get anything else to happen. Had to shut game off to get out of it.

It's an audio cue for the l.e.d. on the cpu board.

So they all do this?
Thank you.

It's kind of nice to here the "ping" when booting.
Bally on the other hand... ( " ------ click " ).
It is the plus side of stern having direct control of the snd board.

the 2 service buttons act up as well (on all classic Sterns apparently) ... one of the 2 buttons will cycle through lamp test , solenoid test ect. until you get to bookkeeping ~THEN~ the 2'nd button can be used to clear that field ... if 2'nd button is used before the bookkeeping it crashes the game

Room for one more member?
I'll post a restore thread in a few weeks or so, when I start digging into it.
-mof

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Oh yeah! I'm ready to see how you do with F2K. I did 2 of them. I would definitely bead/sand blast those legs and hit them with Rustoleum Hammer tone paint. Same color as the coin door. I have all the tech cards and labels for sale if you want a set for $35. I even have the little sticker that goes on the 2 switches on the coin door.

Best Place to Buy a Power Driver Board down by the speaker in cabinet?
Mine is flucky with the playfield lights, and has been re-built so many times it's a Frankenstein mess.

Weebly

??

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1055-nvramweeblycom/01123--new-bally-stern-rectifier-board-as-2518-18-ta-100

+1

Gatcha, Thanks. Ordering today pre-built.

Rules question: Why do the 5-4-3-2-1 controlled lamps function when it's not quite time to blast off yet?

I'm wondering what I'm "collecting' when I accomplish 5-4-3-2-1 too early.

Any tips for repairing this, without buying a new plastic set.

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You really cannot repairr those. You need some polycarbonate sheet to make some replacements with. you need approximately .76mm thick.

Here is a lot for sale on Ebay in the UK.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R4.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpolycarbonate.TRS0&_nkw=polycarbonate+sheet&_sacat=0

I do not speak or spell German so could not link to Ebay-Germany but you can probably find a small quantity there.

Yea i was afraid of that, i would just hate to have to remake them, since im never going to get the artwork to be correct again, and finding polycarbonate in that thickness could be a challenge.

Don't worry about the German, i don't speak that language either.

Stern recommended putting small wireforms under the plastics to repair this - I think they were referring to Galaxy, but it's similar plastics. You have to drill a couple of holes I managed to get it perfect on my CPR PF so there's no flipper hop. I have new plastics on it as well, but this helps to protect them (although the poly is certainly a way to go, too - I've done that on other games, where someone else already laser cut the plastic.... too hard to cut by hand otherwise.)

I think i seen a picture of a Flight 2000 with the wireforms installed, main problem here is im located in Denmark, parts for pinball machines are very sparse at best, i have no idea on where to get the required parts.

Polycarbonate i can get without much problem, but it would kinda silly without the artwork.

I did however saw someone that raised those pieces of plastic, but of cause i don't remember where, could be a solution also.

There was a service bulletin... for adding two wire forms in that area,
in order to keep the plastic pieces from breaking.

Here's the way I fixed it (although you see that my repro pieces aren't broken.... yet....)
Yes, I know the glass is dusty....

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Nice fix, problem is i can't find wire gates in europe, maybe im searching wrong, but so far no luck.

Does anyone got a scan of the two inlane guides, i got an idea, not sure if possible.

YUP! That's the ticket.

I'll be working on Fusion 360 models of the inlane guides this week. I did them once in Sketchup but the conversion to get them to a dxf file did something funky when the CNC cut the stainless. Fusion 360 should solve that issue.

I remember an operator back in the early 1980's trying to order the metal
ball guides that were used on Stern's Split Second as a repair for Fight 2000.
He freaked out over the cost to order the part... told the distributor at that time
to shove it.

My F2K chart is still folded up has to two pieces of wire installed, like yours. And the plastic guides are still broken.

Cutting a piece of polycarbonate would not be hard. All one has to do is trace the broken part, then get a straight edge and extend a straight line beyond the flipper. You would then to transfer drill any holes from the factory guide to the new poly guide, remove the flipper, lay down and screw the new guide into position, then lay the flipper on top and make a mark just beyond the flipper. Then unmount everything, and cut the line you drew. Now you have a poly part that will fit and will not break. Then put the factory part on top and screw everything down and the poly will take the hits.

The above is easy to do but hard to explain.

Made mine with lexan, tin shears, a sharpie, and a belt sander, and a drill press (but I winged this with a cordless actually after hot poking the holes) and a soft nail file last night -- plays BTF like butter perfection.

-mof
(better than factory)

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Very nice.

SLING GI:

Has anyone swapped out the 4 bracketed lamp sockets for surface-level mount? I would think it would bring more light to that area. (or did factory just put the wrong ones in mine?)

I wonder what kind of hard clear (or black) plastic tubing could be used and cut to make a set of spacers to raise the PF plastics above clear flipper guides?

-mof

All of the GI lamps on f2k are low. Don't know why. Maybe to keep them from melting the plastics? They are a pain to change the bulbs.

That’s what i was thinking. But with LED’s in the GI i can’t see the plastics warping. I’m just repopulating my pf so i think i’ll give the Flush-mount style a try. They use them in a few areas already.

Do you see any reason to not set them deeper?

Most of the time it had to do with conditions at the time.
Fight 2000 has plastic pieces that are low to the main playfield...
So instead of having multiple sizes... economically it made sense to use
"one size fits all" approach.
On the other hand, they had a plethora of leftover lamps from the EM days
that they had to get rid of.

if you're going LED, I don't see why you can't use the staple down sockets.

Good point, I thought of that also. It's like the brick pattern on the floor of my Seawitch. I'm still trying to figure out why Bally used particle board for the cabinet back and back box rear panesl starting around 1980.

1970's EM games. Management... cut costs here and there...
A cheaper suppler here and there... saves money down the line.
Gottlieb games did what the could to try and keep the quality up...
But like the other manufactures at the time... ( mid 1980's )
they reduced themselves to cheap particle board wood cabinets.
Buy this time, manufactures did not want their games to last.
I remember Steve Ritchie having to fight Williams for the VUK assembly
on F14... Management wanted a cheaper metal assembly. Etc,etc,etc.

Would you be willing to share the Fusion 360 file when its done ? Im thinking for 3D print, that would be an easy and very cheap way of replacing the inlane guides.

Yes, I will make the files available for free.

I had some scrap 3mm polycarbonat kicking around, so i made a quick test, still need to be cut to length next to the flipper.

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And it looks like this installed:

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That is a nice looking fix. If you find replacement non broken guides I think I would keep that in place. At least the missing art shows thru from the playfield below.

Thank you, and at least it works, i could have been a little more precise with the sanding, but only had a dremel and some sandpaper.

Here is a picture of both sides done:

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