(Topic ID: 124724)

Flight 2000 Club - members and fans welcome!


By Snux

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 508 posts
  • 67 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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There are 508 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 11.
#451 37 days ago
Quoted from wmanningiv:

Is there a better way to secure these metal supports on the Apollo lock mechanism plastics? They’re all loose on mine so they make taking the plastics off to clean the playfield a real chore.[quoted image]

I believe they are just press-fit together on the originals. I would think a drop of super glue would do the trick but perhaps others have different advice.

#452 36 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Moving on to other items, someone had replaced the left spinner with one from another game. It was originally yellow so they painted it black. I have no idea why other than I can just assume they were lazy and only had black paint.
I stripped it all off and I'm putting on multiple coats of white. I have a vinyl cutter so I'm tempted to try making the stars and "S" myself. Looks like decals are pretty cheap too though. I thought about cutting my own numbers for the drop targets too.[quoted image]

There was a Pinsider that screened new F2K spinners for me 3 years ago. I just messaged him and asked if he can make more so I will let you know if he replies. I know it was a long time ago...

#453 36 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Moving on to other items, someone had replaced the left spinner with one from another game. It was originally yellow so they painted it black. I have no idea why other than I can just assume they were lazy and only had black paint.
I stripped it all off and I'm putting on multiple coats of white. I have a vinyl cutter so I'm tempted to try making the stars and "S" myself. Looks like decals are pretty cheap too though. I thought about cutting my own numbers for the drop targets too.[quoted image]

There was a Pinsider that screened new F2K spinners for me 3 years ago. I just messaged him and asked if he can make more so I will let you know if he replies. I know it was a long time ago...

Quoted from wmanningiv:

Is there a better way to secure these metal supports on the Apollo lock mechanism plastics? They’re all loose on mine so they make taking the plastics off to clean the playfield a real chore.[quoted image]

The stands were originally pressed on. It looks like a one piece design but I think they are actually 2 pieces. At the top, it looks like some type of eyelet that was pressed and flared over the top of the plastic. You can try using a hollow tube like metal tool on the underside and a center punch with a flaring angle and gently tap them down. Something like these?

amazon.com link »

The largest one would probably work.

#454 35 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Moving on to other items, someone had replaced the left spinner with one from another game. It was originally yellow so they painted it black. I have no idea why other than I can just assume they were lazy and only had black paint.
I stripped it all off and I'm putting on multiple coats of white. I have a vinyl cutter so I'm tempted to try making the stars and "S" myself. Looks like decals are pretty cheap too though. I thought about cutting my own numbers for the drop targets too.[quoted image]

PM sent

#455 35 days ago
Quoted from wmanningiv:

Is there a better way to secure these metal supports on the Apollo lock mechanism plastics? They’re all loose on mine so they make taking the plastics off to clean the playfield a real chore.[quoted image]

I just looked at these pics closer. If the top plastic was changed, it's possible that somebody may have drilled out the tops of the stands to remove them from the original plastics. If that's the case, there's not much you can do except source some used plastics and remove the stands. the easiest way is to use a soldering iron tip and heat them up and apply pressure until they pop out. Follow Gatecrasher's method to re-install them. He posted it somewhere on PS. If I find the thread I will post it here.

#456 35 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Moving on to other items, someone had replaced the left spinner with one from another game. It was originally yellow so they painted it black. I have no idea why other than I can just assume they were lazy and only had black paint.
I stripped it all off and I'm putting on multiple coats of white. I have a vinyl cutter so I'm tempted to try making the stars and "S" myself. Looks like decals are pretty cheap too though. I thought about cutting my own numbers for the drop targets too.[quoted image]

Tractor Doc is making some good quality vinyl decals. He has the full set of 1 thru 9 numbers for Big Game. I think F2K uses the same style of font.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02280-classic-stern-spinner-decal-yellow-background-red-s

#457 35 days ago

A quick picture of the decals I had made/for sale in the Pinside shop.

Numbers are cut vinyl but the spinner decals are ordered thru a print company.
Spinner decal is a bit fuzzy due to my poor picture taking ability, but you get the idea.

Thanks for the plug cottonm4
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#458 29 days ago

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

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#459 24 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]

I asked mr_tantrum to design custom apron cards for F2K. Designed, printed and received in less than a week! They are heavy high quality cards. Pics in original apron:

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#460 24 days ago

Just bought one of these f2k units and its being shipped to me as I type. Looking forward to giving it a full repaint and rebuild possibly late this summer as i want to play it for a while first.

#461 23 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I asked mr_tantrum to design custom apron cards for F2K. Designed, printed and received in less than a week! They are heavy high quality cards. Pics in original apron:[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good!

#462 23 days ago

The instruction cards look nice, but I don’t believe the instructions are accurate. It offers the ways to advance the bonus, including the outlanes, but omits the return lanes do also. If I’m being too picky, please disregard as these are still a nice touch.

#463 23 days ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

The instruction cards look nice, but I don’t believe the instructions are accurate. It offers the ways to advance the bonus, including the outlanes, but omits the return lanes do also. If I’m being too picky, please disregard as these are still a nice touch.

Instructions vary from what ever the game dips were set to. These games came with many cards so the ops could choose the one that fit whatever options were chosen. Eg. I have my game set to award extra balls instead of free games so that I can get the highest score possible. I'm sure mr_tantrum can make the card with the instructions to fit your needs.

#464 23 days ago

I want to add, the game points awarded and and rules can change depending on a 3 ball game compared to a 5 ball game setting.

#465 23 days ago

I hear all that and agree, however, there is no way to keep the return lanes from advancing bonus regardless of dip settings. Having said that, I just looked at my copy of an original instruction card, which you so graciously supplied me with Lovef2k. Thank you again for that Rich (and the playfield glass). It doesn’t mention the return lanes advancing bonus either. So from the factory, that aspect of scoring wasn’t noted. I realize most instruction cards could only hold so much info, I’d have thought this would have been on there for sure.

#466 23 days ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

So from the factory, that aspect of scoring wasn’t noted.

It's printed on the playfield....

#467 22 days ago

Outlanes advance bonus is printed on the playfield too, yet it’s also on the instruction card.

#468 22 days ago

That's probably why Stern went out of business in the 80s.

#469 22 days ago

I had some time today so I did a little work with a black 1mm Molotow acrylic paint pen. Here's some before and after shots on the bonus insert area.some of the other colors need a lot of help but touching up the black made a big difference.

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#470 19 days ago

Greetings

Just joined the club, plan to start working on the cabinet a bit as well as the flippers.

Does anyone here know the color codes for the cabinet art?

Which flipper rebuild kits can you recommend?

#471 19 days ago

If you're doing a full respray rustoleum safety blue and safety yellow.

#472 18 days ago
Quoted from Bulldozer:

Greetings
Just joined the club, plan to start working on the cabinet a bit as well as the flippers.
Does anyone here know the color codes for the cabinet art?
Which flipper rebuild kits can you recommend?

Everything to need right here.

https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-flipper-rebuild-kit-left-and-right-flippers.html

THis is $50.00 for both sides. Has everything you need.

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html

This is equals $106.00 for both sides, but you get new coils and a new mounting plates.

#473 18 days ago
Quoted from Bulldozer:

Greetings
Just joined the club, plan to start working on the cabinet a bit as well as the flippers.
Does anyone here know the color codes for the cabinet art?

I wheeled my cab in and color matched the blue hidden hidden under the side rails.

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#474 13 days ago

Thank you for the replies!

Picked up the machine today.

Has anyone of you tested the original paint for lead?

Cheers
B

#475 13 days ago

That's a great question. I have not but I assume it is lead paint given the age. I see people sanding down cabs without a respirator and it makes me cringe.

#476 13 days ago

Thanks, will let everyone know here if I run some tests.

Here she is by the way. Sitting in the middle of the street - tired, flaking and dusty after 39 years.

To be continued!

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#477 13 days ago
Quoted from Bulldozer:

Thanks, will let everyone know here if I run some tests.
Here she is by the way. Sitting in the middle of the street - tired, flaking and dusty after 39 years.
To be continued![quoted image]

Sitting in the middle of the street. It looks like a movie set where a car is going to come rolling down the street and........

#478 13 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Sitting in the middle of the street. It looks like a movie set where a car is going to come rolling down the street and........

I just picture some pinball diehard just pushing it up the hill grunting away because it needs to fill a spot.

#479 13 days ago

I'm in the process of restoration

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#480 13 days ago
Quoted from Bulldozer:

Thanks, will let everyone know here if I run some tests.
Here she is by the way. Sitting in the middle of the street - tired, flaking and dusty after 39 years.
To be continued![quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Sitting in the middle of the street. It looks like a movie set where a car is going to come rolling down the street and........

Quoted from wolffcub:

I just picture some pinball diehard just pushing it up the hill grunting away because it needs to fill a spot.

I don't know. The pic just has a surreal and cool Twilight Zone look to it.

#481 12 days ago

Let's talk paint colors! I'm working on my playfield now. I found that Liquitex Professional Heavy Body Pyrrole Orange is a very good match for the orange straight out of the tube.

Liquitex Professional Heavy Body Prisim Violet is close to the purple as well. It is a teeny tiny bit dark but I used it as-is in a few spots and you would not notice if I didn't point them out.

The green is tougher. I finally hit on a mix that works. A good starting point is the Liquitex Light Amber Green. To this I added a LOT of Liquitex Basics Cadmium yellow light hue that I happens to have on hand. The pigment load on the basics line is pretty weak so my green paint probably has more yellow than green! I added a small amount of white to lighten it and was close but still off. I added in a VERY TINY amount of the Pyrrole orange and it came out very good. The orange has a very high pigment load so it goes a very long way toward changing the color.

It looks like the green is darkening a hair as it dries (and the camera exaggerates the difference) so I'm going to go a tiny bit lighter on the second coat. The finish is still very rough, just posting these pics to show the colors.

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#482 12 days ago

I lightened up the second coat and got a whole lot closer on the green.

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#483 6 days ago

Taking a break from many fine laters of paint for a moment, I finally traced down my one remaining inoperable insert light to a bad SCR. Q13 was no longer functional. I was able to find a suitable replacement at the local surplus store. They had both N25061 and N25062 SCRs. I went with the slightly heavier duty 5062 which is rated for 100v. Swapping it out was easy peasy. I picked up a few extra for down the road as well. The bonus lights are very handsome in attract mode. I don't think I had ever seen that work correctly. The pulsing outward effect is completely ruined by even one light being out.

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#484 5 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Taking a break from many fine laters of paint for a moment, I finally traced down my one remaining inoperable insert light to a bad SCR. Q13 was no longer functional. I was able to find a suitable replacement at the local surplus store. They had both N25061 and N25062 SCRs. I went with the slightly heavier duty 5062 which is rated for 100v. Swapping it out was easy peasy. I picked up a few extra for down the road as well. The bonus lights are very handsome in attract mode. I don't think I had ever seen that work correctly. The pulsing outward effect is completely ruined by even one light being out.[quoted image]

#485 5 days ago

Worse comes to worse, you can always just move an unused transistor on the board to a spot where you need it. Not sure on F2K how many that is, but I have done it on other boards and there are usually quite a few.

#486 5 days ago
Quoted from o-din:

Worse comes to worse, you can always just move an unused transistor on the board to a spot where you need it. Not sure on F2K how many that is, but I have done it on other boards and there are usually quite a few.

I think F2K uses all 60, good idea though!

#487 5 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I think F2K uses all 60, good idea though!

I wouldn't doubt it! I'm yet to put mine back together. Games keep rolling in.

#488 5 days ago

It is an interesting game. It isn't terribly deep compared to other games but that multiball is damn tough. How many games have a 16 step process for getting multiball? When you finally get it, it is very rewarding because you really had to work at it.

#489 5 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

It is an interesting game. It isn't terribly deep compared to other games but that multiball is damn tough. How many games have a 16 step process for getting multiball? When you finally get it, it is very rewarding because you really had to work at it.

I love how the game opens up after the multi ball. The extra ball targets light up and you keep building out the multipliers getting ready for the next multiball. Also the maze spinner builds in value.

#490 3 days ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

I love how the game opens up after the multi ball. The extra ball targets light up and you keep building out the multipliers getting ready for the next multiball. Also the maze spinner builds in value.

Too bad the multiball is over if you re-shoot the maze during multiball. A definite flaw that the MB sterns of that era had - it was actually the main reasons I sold my Catacomb and Lightning.

#491 3 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Too bad the multiball is over if you re-shoot the maze during multiball. A definite flaw that the MB sterns of that era had - it was actually the main reasons I sold my Catacomb and Lightning.

That is a bummer but what I like is that during MB and you hit the spot blast target, you have a head start for the next MB. It's rare but I have gotten MB twice before the last ball drained. Also someone was working on the software to change the locking ball during Mb. I never followed up with him. I'll have to check the archives on RGP/

#492 1 day ago

Anyone else have the CPR backglass? I was so excited to put it in place but it looks really washed out and pastel to me. Curious if anyone else had a similar experience.

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#493 22 hours ago

Can anyone tell me which diode I need to remove if I install a button battery on my F2K? Thanks.

#494 22 hours ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Can anyone tell me which diode I need to remove if I install a button battery on my F2K? Thanks.

You need to add a diode if you put a button cell in, from the + line of the battery, to prevent the board from trying to charge it. Remove the original battery, put the coin cell holder in, solder the negative directly to the ground, then solder where the + side of the original battery was to a 1n4004 or similar diode's banded side, and the other side of the diode to the battery holder's + terminal.

It may be possible to just replace R12 with a diode oriented the same way (the band blocking the incoming path to the battery) as the 270 ohm resistor that is there might be to regulate the charging circuit vs. anything with the battery out to the ram, but that is speculation on my part.

#495 22 hours ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Anyone else have the CPR backglass? I was so excited to put it in place but it looks really washed out and pastel to me. Curious if anyone else had a similar experience.[quoted image]

I have one, but it's from the first run years ago, it definitely was a little washed out vs. the original, but not as bad as what you're showing. Is that done using their new direct ink process?

#496 21 hours ago

I'm not sure which process this is (old or new). I may experiment with some different bulbs to see how they affect it

#497 21 hours ago
Quoted from slochar:

You need to add a diode if you put a button cell in, from the + line of the battery, to prevent the board from trying to charge it. Remove the original battery, put the coin cell holder in, solder the negative directly to the ground, then solder where the + side of the original battery was to a 1n4004 or similar diode's banded side, and the other side of the diode to the battery holder's + terminal.
It may be possible to just replace R12 with a diode oriented the same way (the band blocking the incoming path to the battery) as the 270 ohm resistor that is there might be to regulate the charging circuit vs. anything with the battery out to the ram, but that is speculation on my part.

Thank you!

#498 16 hours ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

Anyone else have the CPR backglass? I was so excited to put it in place but it looks really washed out and pastel to me. Curious if anyone else had a similar experience.[quoted image]

That doesn't look all that bad. You should probably change the LED's to warm white or put some red in behind the flight 2000 part. This is the 2010 CPR in my game.

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#499 6 hours ago

Who has used the beehive playfield protector? Thoughts? What did you have to do for install?

#500 6 hours ago

Love seeing photos of other F2Ks

Does anyone know if its still possible to buy a reproduction playfield somewhere?

Asked CPR but they where all out of stock.

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