I'm in! I picked up an f2k at pagg. It's been playing alright but recently started not kicking a ball. I'll break out the manual and see what's up.

Very impressed with this game and it's difficult multiball. It has a great sound package for the time.

I'll report in and post some pics when I get it playing again.

I picked one up a few months ago; so far ive replaced the rectifier board, installed new plastics and a new BG and converted it to full LED. I highly recommend the small led boards that Vid reviewd, no more insert flicker! I have a cpr pf i need to install but I keep putting it off
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Just got myself one about a month ago. I couldn't be happier. This is my favorite table from my arcade going days and every time I fire up a new game the memories come flooding back. SO HAPPY to have this amazing machine.

Wish I had gotten it back when CPR repro backglasses were available. I'd love to have one.

Quick question for you other F2K owners: does your table have an actual knocker and if so, can you take a photograph of its location for me? My manual/schematic is saying there should be one but mine does not have it. Yes, there is a distinctive sound tone ont he sound board that plays when a high game or match is made, but I am just wondering of there should be a real knocker in it. If so, I want to get one and install it. Thanks guys!

Agh my #2 drop broke! Anybody have a spare to sell?

This is one of my first pinball memories. ..you'll read about it in my bio..can't wait to add one to my collection

Time to finally roll up my sleeves and get to work...
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Looking for a F2k in northern California for a friend. He had one as a kid and wants to have it again for himself and his kids. Anyone out there have one or know of one that might be available?

I am a F2K owner and love the game. I feel it may be the best early stern SS game they made.
The right spinner shot is my favorite on any game ever made. You hit my spinner and it spins around
30 times. Such a great game and its great that bg, pf and plastics have been reproduced.

I acquired a F2K a couple weeks ago from another local collector. It's my first classic Stern, so I have much to learn. He said that the rectifier board was flaky, so I'll have to give that some attention.

Correct legs?

My F2K came with 28.5 inch grey-painted non-ribbed legs. Are these correct for the game? If not, what would be considered correct?

That's correct I think, atleast it matches mine.

Just picked up a mostly working F2K. Has a weird issue to sort out before I shop it. Mid game if I lock a ball it will sometime release the ball! I putti in switch mode and the ball lock switch and trough switches appear to be working.
I have another head with boards. I may just try swapping things. Need to get bothe game done before I play with this issue though.

Thanks. My searches turned up photos of F2K's with grey, black, and chrome legs. The original flyer doesn't show the legs. [The pinball legs, that is.]

My grey legs have enough blue paint rubbed onto them that I figured they had been with the game for a long time. They're in mediocre condition, so I might just order a new set.

We call that 'faulty ball'...happens on a friends F2K. I figure it is a switch matrix issue causing the top left switch entering the ball walker to register a hit, which sends the locked ball down. There are flat round caps on some switches that hold energy to extend the 'closed' time when the switch is hit so the cpu can register the hit. A leaky cap on that top switch could theoretically trigger a hit. I replaced it, didn't fix the problem. Have tried to duplicate the anomaly to figure out the switch matrix error but no luck. One of these days I need to test and/or replace diodes on every switch and replace every switch cap too, and who knows if that will fix the gremlin.

Hmm, I have had that with other Bally/sterns that the pop randomly fires. I supposed from a switch being triggered by a bad cap. Wit f2k it makes the game unplayable.

Yes, unfortunately it really does make it unplayable, especially a 2 player game as the game does not know you have 2 balls in play and when 1 falls out it counts bonus and switches players with 1 ball still in play. Very frustrated owner at this point.

I will swear when it happens we have usually hit drop target 3 or 4. The drop target switches are 'closed' when down...i think a certain pattern of closed switches combined with a failed switch diode is causing a switch matrix problem with one corner of the 'box' in the switch matrix being that top ball walker entrance switch that gets triggered falsely. Diagnosing this problem is new to me and really just a hunch. If I had the game at my place I could tinker with it easier. I suppose it could just be a board/connector issue, but i would figure that to cause a switch to NOT trigger.

Maybe someone out there has solved this issue???

Can I test all the switch diodes with them in place, or do I need to remove one leg first? Power on or off?

Well. I haven't dug too much into the game since buying it. I have a few games I have to get out for other people first.
But I have fixed bad displays and the power board rebuilt by a reputable person.
I have also tried a completely different MPU out of the spare head. Same issues. So rule that out.

My guess would be its hard to test. Either it's a bad diode related to a switch. Or a flaky diode or cap that acts up after a bit.

Mine is in progress as well - don't know what it is about this game, but I love it.

Scott

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Mine is patiently waiting.

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I love F2K, just something about it. Mine was a dirty garage find that needed a good home and alot of tinkering. Has it's bumps and bruises, I don't do crazy restorations but just get them cleaned up and working as close to 100% as I can. I do wish I had a better backglass, mine is faded and flaking but it could be much worse. Here is a gameplay video...worst multiball in history but I got there so a good game in that regard...

Nice lookin game for a beater. I have never played the game. A buddy got a project and made it boot. Passed it on to me knowing I have three other widebodys that make a nice lineup.
Can't wait to play.

Coin door decals -
I've found a couple sources for the blue credit decal for the coin door.
Does anyone know of a source for a good repro of the large Stern decal for the coin door?
Thanks!

Phoenix Arcade makes both the credit button ring decal and the larger door decal:

http://www.phoenixarcade.com/art.htm#stern

IMHO, their decals are the most faithful reproductions.

This is mine!

CPR playfeild and backglass, cab redone, etc...

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It's beautifull!! And a much better multiball than my video, nice job.

I'm hoping someone here can help!!! I bought a non booting F2K. Got 2 flashes, tested the 2 5101's one was bad so I replaced it. I get the flicker and seven flashes but it won't boot nor will the displays light up. Prior to working on the mpu I replaced the rectifier board because voltages were wrong when I got it. All the voltages test ok now. I also put in a tested working rebuilt SDB and re pinned all the display connectors. Can anyone point me in the right direction to try and get the game to go into attract mode and the displays come on after the seventh flash?

I think you need three ball in there to have it boot completely and try without the sound board connected

I have 3 balls in it and have disconnected the sound board and still won't come up!
The trough switch has been flakey and was making it search for balls but I have adjusted it, still going to replace switch but not searching for balls anymore.

I'm thinking I may put a jumper across that switch just to check but I don't think that's it since it is no longer searching for balls?

When the game comes up it should pop all the walker solenoids a few times then attract mode will start. I think it always does this at startup, at least my gamatron with the same software does and it handles multiball fine. Go into switch test and check to see if the trough switches are working. Check the walker holes switches too.

FYI a new condition CPR backglass for Flight 2000 is on Ebay right now. Would love to own it but mine is a player pin not worthy of the expense and I can live with my faded cracked one.

Could you post a picture with the game on but backglass removed. I'm interested in what colors you put where?
I would like to snazz my game up a notch.
Fortytwo

Where is a good source for the stand up targets. I broke a white one. Since I will never be a cpr resto game. I just want a nice enough target. Or target plastic. Switch is just fine.
I plan on ordering 1-5 drop targets too. Here's a pic of the playfeild all shopped out.
FortyTwo.

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Hey F2K fans!

Even after much toying around with it and adjusting the metal wall guide before the target bank:
That 50K "DROP 3 TARGETS WITH ONE SHOT" when lite is lit proves 100% elusive!!!

I've had this game for around 20 years but have yet to have those 3 drops on the right sweep with one shot from the left flipper like the one I played at Fun and Games arcade in Framingham when this game first came out. Tried adjusting the angle of where the metal wall guide sits and the best I could get it was I could get the first 2 down with one shot but then the ball would careen away and never get the 3rd.
That 50K "DROP 3 TARGETS WITH ONE SHOT" when lite is lit proves 100% elusive! Anyone have theirs adjusted so it works correctly and sweepable?

the only time they all 3 drop for me is when ball is bobbling around in there off thumper bumper & playfield post across from them. ... then usually comeback down just to stop the spinnier I just got flying

Pm send

Same here, and I hate when you rip the spinner and the ball falls back and stops it.

That 3 bank is supposeed to be very sweepable. That's what they had in mind when they designed the shot. Like the other Sterns of the day, they liked to have thier drops sweepable. Like that delicious shot of the 4 bank in the center of Quicksilver and the 3 banks in Star Gazer and Ali.

Want my F2K to do the same. Having some luck now after spending an afternoon on it. Got them to sweep once and the rest of the time got the first 2 down so that's some progress anyway.

I noticed when shopping my game the metal fuse had been moved from factory to a more outward position. This reveled less of the first drop target.
I too have not been able to sweep them. But not sure if that is because I haven't gotten a clean shot.
When you do get it working a overhead picture without the plastic would help the rest of us. I'll play with mine this week also.

I am in need of the right flipper 'in'lane plastic. Please let me know if you have one you can part with or know of one for sale, it would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

Questions about parts. Have a potential 2000 project coming up - haven't seen pf yet so don't know what kind of shape it's in. I do know there's no backglass. Has anyone made a translight successfully? I know the repro backglasses are sold out.

How are parts availability for this game? I don't want to purchase a project that turns out to be something I can't complete due to lack of parts, etc.

Finally, someone was tweaking the ROM to adjust gameplay a bit, is this still available??

What would be a decent selling price for this type of game (no backglass, pf possibly worn, boards working).

Thanks in advance,

Nate

A wallhanger grade glass sells for about $50. But shipping is the worst part.
Here's mine from a spare head I plan on selling.
The boards are pretty much Bally and displays can be interchanged with a minor modification. Plus many have some laying around like myself.
The sound cards are the hardest to find working. This game has two a speech and sound. Heck I even have a spare head box with light board for one.

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Fotytwo, thanks for the info. Good to know about glass prices - yep, shipping is the killer. I guess I could try to get one at Allentown/York sometime if I get the machine. Thanks for the heads up about the sound boards also. Will be interesting to see photos of the Flight 2000. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions!

-Nate

There are two varietys of the sound card. If someone has swapped them a jumper will have to be added to the back to enable speech mixing. I have a spare set I plan on selling once I verify I don't have any issues with my game. Look me up if you neeed them.
Good luck with that game. If you know someone going to MGC I will be able to bring the glass to there.

Classic Stern legs should be closer to hammertone silver color.

Hi guys,

Long time pinsider but rare poster.

Have a request for a picture - I need to see the wiring from the left flipper coil ... which wires go to which of the 3 lugs ... and then which 2 wires go from the lugs to the exact spot on the flipper switch.

My left flipper started to bind so I did a flipper rebuild ... when I plugged it in to play a test game, I played for a while but suddenly the game shut down (complete power shutdown). I fried the 3A fuse on the rectifier board and I also fried the left flipper coil ... the coil must've melted the coil sleeve as I can't get the coil sleeve out of the coil. So I'm ordering a left flipper coil

Not sure what other damage I've done yet as I need to get the right fuse. Figured while I would at least figure out the wiring for the coil when it arrives. The wiring on my right flipper looks straightforward. The wiring at the 3 coil lugs for the left flipper is very confusing looking ... looks previous owner has multiple wires (at least 3) on the same lug ... so I'm confused at this point.

Sorry for the newbie like question ... I've looked in this thread and at some resto threads but there's no real clear shot of the wiring for the left flipper.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

Mike Geib
West Chester, PA

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