(Topic ID: 92637)

Flickering Gorgar Player 3 Display

By UvulaBob

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by TimeWarp1
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

The player 3 display on my Gorgar flickers in the left three digits whenever the leftmost digit is a 1 or 7. I'm sure there's minor traces with other digits, but it's most noticeable with a 1 or 7. I've swapped the Player 3 and Player 1 displays, and the problem doesn't follow, so I suspect the problem is with the current being applied.

The manual says that the Player 3 100,000, 10,000 and 1,000 digits come out of 4J3-5, 6, and 3, respectively. The problem most noticably manifests when segments B and C are the main digits being displayed, but it also occurs when just segment A is added to the mix. These segments come out of 4J3-10, 13 and 9, respecitvely.

4J3-5, 6 and 3 come out of pins 17, 18 and 16 on IC12, respectively. Segments B, C and A are a bit harder to follow. It looks like they're part of a parallel circuit that comes out come out of pins 13, 16 and 17 on IC10, with each of them going through one of the resistors in R8-R14.

Can anyone point me to a breakdown of how these displays actually work? I'm not sure what the 10's, 100's, 1000's and other connections do as opposed to the segment connections. Are the boards driven by some kind of signal that tells them to light up or blank out certain segments on a certain digit? For instance, If I go from 1000 to 2500 points, does the master board tell the slave board to:

1) Light segments A, B, E, D and G on the 10,000s digit
2) Blank out segments F and C on the 10,000's digit
3) Light segments A, C, D, F and G on the 1,000's digit
4) Black out segments B and E on the 1,000's digit

... and so on at such a speed as to make it all seem near-instantaneous? Or does it work some other way?

Thanks!

#2 9 years ago

Displays are generally driven in pairs - 1 & 3 and 2 & 4. Usually if there's an electrical problem on the MDB you'll see it on two displays. The easiest thing to do is swap the P3 and P4 displays. If the problem still stays on P3 you either have a connector issue or one of the resistors on the MDB is going bad.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repairing-williams-sys-3-6-master-display-board-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix-long

viperrwk

#3 9 years ago

The wiring diagram shows that the 100,000 digit field's segments for player 3 and 4 go through R8 through 14. I tested those, along with all the rest, and they all came out between 9.5k and 10k Ohms.

The more I investigate, the more I think that the problem is with the UDN-6184 chip that drives the 100,000, 10,000 and 1,000 digits for Player 3. This chip is labeled as IC 12. I'm considering swapping IC12 and 13 to see if the problem moves from Player 3 to Player 4. If so, then we've found the culprit. At that point, the only problem will be acquiring a proper replacement.

4 months later
#4 9 years ago

I know this threads a bit old but I was curious of the outcome if you performed the procedure you mentioned? I actually have almost the same exact issue on my Time Warp except it seems to be just the Player 2 scoreboard and the leftmost 6th digit flickers a little bit when displaying 1 and 7. In addition to that the 'F' segment on every digit of the 3rd and 4th player comes and goes but mostly goes. Whoever "serviced" the board last did a sloppy job. Check it out:
100_1378.JPG100_1378.JPG
Of course I wasn't going to let that nasty work stay and I fixed it up as best I could. Some of the pads were so pre-toasted that the second I touched it with the iron (25W) the pads nearly evaporated. Interestingly that mostly occurred on the resistors connected to the segments that have no issues. I checked continuity and it's totally there on all of them:
100_1392.JPG100_1392.JPG

Still, several of the spots specifically R4, R5, R8, R9, and R13 were so burned up they charred the board black. I suspect the ICs didn't like this and probably crapped out just enough to only "sort-of" work. I fiberglass penned the charred traces and flowed some solder to beef up the connection. Fiberglassed the edge connectors too to no avail.

UPDATE 12/10/14: The missing F segment was bothering me too much a couple weeks ago so I decided to start seeing what the deal was. I *think* what fixed it was actually reseating 4J7 or 4J6 on the Master Display Board (pretty sure it was 4J7) as I wanted to cut the high voltage power to the board to probe the inputs of the 7180 (IC10). I then probed everything out running through the display digit test and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. The "bad" segment worked like all the other good segments going by the probe. I shrugged my shoulders and got everything connected back up and just like that the segment was solidly working.

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