(Topic ID: 76454)

Flash upper flipper, why extra switch?

By GListOverflow

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I'm finishing up the flippers on my Flash project and found that someone previously had cut off the leaves from the doubled up switch on the right flipper that activates the upper flipper, and just soldered the wires to the lugs on the lower flipper's coil. I haven't been able to find any documentation on it, but from pictures it looks like the secondary switch has the upper flipper's ground on one side, and the other side is just connected to the lower flipper's EOS so as the lower EOS opens the upper coil gets grounded. Is that right?

If so, what is the point of having the secondary switch, and not just wiring the upper flipper in parallel with the lower?

#2 10 years ago

Bump

If anyone has a clear photo of the wiring for the lower right flipper EOS switch stack that would also be nice so I can know for sure what it is supposed to look like

#3 10 years ago

Hello

I just saw your post hope these pictures help.

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#4 10 years ago

Thanks for the response

I'm trying to figure out what the wiring looks like on the lower right flipper, with the doubled up switch on the EOS that activates the upper right flipper. I think the pics are upper flipper?

#5 10 years ago

ah sorry took pic of upper right. I can check it out and verbally describe it well or take another picture.

#6 10 years ago

here is pic of lower right flipper

Best of luck with your repairs.

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#7 10 years ago

If that does not fix it I would start from page 23 of the manual.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/871/Williams_1979_Flash_Manual.pdf

#8 10 years ago

Here's what it looks like with new style mechs

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-flipper-upgrade#post-1163854

viperrwk

#9 10 years ago

Thanks guys, I see now how it is wired. Couldn't find that in the manual anywhere.

I'm still wondering though, why it is wired like this. Essentially the upper flipper coil fires once the lower flipper coil has switched over to low power. Would wiring the upper coil straight to the lower coil cause some problem? I have to assume Williams would not unnecessarily use extra parts but I can't figure why it would be an issue.

#10 10 years ago

I assume that the flipper power would be a bit better if they're slightly out of sync, as the power supply doesn't have two paths to ground. That's just wild speculation, though. I don't know what the original engineering reason for the dual switches was.

In a multi-ball game the dual switches allow skilled players to flip only the upper flipper while holding a ball on the lower flippers ("staging" the flipper). This is super useful in some multiballs, like the one on Addams Family, where the jackpot is an upper flipper shot.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from Excalabur:

In a multi-ball game the dual switches allow skilled players to flip only the upper flipper while holding a ball on the lower flippers ("staging" the flipper).

Yeah I understand when the upper and lower flippers are independently controllable with dual switches at the flipper button, but this one is essentially just a tiny time delay.

I agree that the only thing I could speculate was to not have both high-power coils activated at the same time for power concerns, but even then it doesn't hurt anything to hit the left and right flippers at the same time, or for example in a four-flipper System 7 to hit them both quickly to have all four flippers flipping at the same time.

What about on machines like Contact or Alien Poker or Laser Cue that have multiple flippers down at the bottom? Can anyone chip in and say if they are wired like this?

EDIT: I see Contact has double switches at the flipper buttons, but can't tell for Alien Poker or Laser Cue.

#12 10 years ago

It would have been better if Williams used a separate switch for the upper flipper in the cab like they did in their earlier four flipper games (ie Pokerino, Contact, etc.) rather than put it on the switch stack on the lower flipper.

My guess is they did this because of cost and because it was the best way Ritchie could think of to wire three flippers in the machine at the time as it was Williams first three flipper SS deck.

Quoted from GListOverflow:

Would wiring the upper coil straight to the lower coil cause some problem?

I'm not sure what you are suggesting here. Assuming you want to run the upper flipper through its own switch (I wouldn't run two flippers through one switch) you'd have to have that switch somewhere on the stack. You could try rearranging the stack but you would have to modify the switches to insure the lower flipper high and low power circuits are working correctly.

viperrwk

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

(I wouldn't run two flippers through one switch)

This is what I am trying to figure out. Why not? Too much current through the flipper button switch/wiring?

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from GListOverflow:

This is what I am trying to figure out. Why not? Too much current through the flipper button switch/wiring?

Short answer - yes.

Think about your flipper voltage, coil resistance and how much current is flowing through those contacts before the EOS hits, then double it (ohms law.) All three flippers at EOS alone are pulling 6 amps (on a circuit fused for 10a). You can be sure if Williams could have saved money by not having an extra switch for the third flipper by running both through one switch they would have done it.

viperrwk

#15 10 years ago

Alright. So I measure about 25 ohms across the whole coil and about 2.5 ohms across just the strong side. So figure they are running at 25v so 10A each for pull-in and 1A for holding? That doesn't seem to make any sense though since the flipper fuse is a 10A fast blow, wouldn't the pull-in coils have to draw less than 5A each to be able to hit both flippers at the same time without blowing the fuse?

At any rate I guess that is all academic. I was hoping that maybe I could get away with not replacing the secondary switch that had been cut off since at least presumably the machine worked the way it was wired up when I got it but I guess I should fix it right.

#16 10 years ago

The primary side of the flipper coil for Flash is rated at 1.1 ohms and the hold side is rated at 24.6 ohms:

http://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Someone must have measured the current rise time from when the flipper button is pressed until the EOS swtich opens (in milliseconds) but I'm sure for both flippers this must total less than 10a. This is insured by the fact that the upper flipper doesn't go to high power until the lower flipper is at EOS. And this is probably the reason why they didn't up the flipper fuse rating on Flash. Other two flipper games at that time also had 10a fuses. In comparison, a four flipper game like Contact had a 15a fuse for the flippers.

BTW my math was wrong earlier - the three coils at EOS are at about 3 amps total, not 6. I shouldn't try to do math until at least after the third cup of coffee. . .

viperrwk

#17 10 years ago

Ah, neat chart.

So I guess even though the calculated current for the high power side is like 22A, it doesn't run for long enough to actually get that high? I am pretty out of my element here looking at physical behavior over time.

My question would be, if you overfused the flippers to 15A and ran the third flipper in parallel instead of with the extra switch, what would blow up and why? Presumably the power supply can handle it since the same supply is used in games that are fused at 15A, so all that would really leave would be the cabinet button switch and the wiring to and from.

#18 10 years ago

The switch contacts wouldn't last long and the wiring isn't heavy enough to support that much current.

If you really want to have the flippers run in "parallel" rather than in "series," I'd put in a double switch stack on the right flipper and run extra wiring to the third flipper the way it was done in the four flipper games. It would certainly be a unique Flash but I'm not sure the added performance is worth it on a single ball game. When I had Flash I got used to the delay and reacted appropriately. If Flash were multiball it would be a different story.

viperrwk

#19 10 years ago

Well, my main goal is to be lazy / not have to order a switch and pay 8 bucks for shipping on a 3 dollar part, so I guess I'll just go with the factory setup and deal with it

Thanks for the thoughts

#20 10 years ago

I ended up filing down and reusing one of the old EOS switches, drilled a hole in it and put a screw through with an acorn nut on it as a spacer.

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