Cincinnati, OH
Quoted from fastpinball:Playboy?
Aaron
FAST Pinball
Correct!
(Topic ID: 159310)
Quoted from TopMoose:Correct!
What do I win? The chance to play it at Expo this year? 
Aaron
FAST Pinball
A few details:
New black leg bolts with black washers and felt pads.
A keyless lock for the coin door.
Fresh new white buttons and housings.
Shooter rod is re-assembled with a new spring.
I love the feel of a classic Bally shooter handle. 
I finished designing the plastics a couple of weeks ago - tailoring and perfecting the shapes - and then looked into getting them fabricated in acrylic. I did a small project last year at Ponoko.com, but with materials, laser cutting, shipping, tax, setup fees, etc., this project would cost me about $90. Then I remembered that my main library downtown has a "makerspace" with all sorts of cool gadgets, including a laser cutter/engraver. Price: free to members. I'd just have to bring my own sheet of acrylic, which I picked up at Lowes for $11. I even had enough acrylic to make a couple of extra slingshot plastics and a few protector pieces for the high-impact areas.
The downside is that there's a two-week waitlist to use any of their equipment. But the wait is over and today was the day! I documented the whole process, which took about 40 minutes from setup through cutting. Here's a video of the machine in action.
Total cost: $11 for the acrylic, $2 for downtown parking.
Now I just have to wait for my printer to finish the graphics.
Quoted from TopMoose:I finished designing the plastics a couple of weeks ago - tailoring and perfecting the shapes - and then looked into getting them fabricated in acrylic. I did a small project last year at Ponoko.com, but with materials, laser cutting, shipping, tax, setup fees, etc., this project would cost me about $90. Then I remembered that my main library downtown has a "makerspace" with all sorts of cool gadgets, including a laser cutter/engraver. Price: free to members. I'd just have to bring my own sheet of acrylic, which I picked up at Lowes for $11. I even had enough acrylic to make a couple of extra slingshot plastics and a few protector pieces for the high-impact areas.
The downside is that there's a two-week waitlist to use any of their equipment. But the wait is over and today was the day! I documented the whole process, which took about 40 minutes from setup through cutting. Here's a video of the machine in action.
» YouTube video
Total cost: $11 for the acrylic, $2 for downtown parking.
Now I just have to wait for my printer to finish the graphics.
That's awesome
looking great
with the flipper upgrades, very interested are you running with the original boards and rules? are the coils in the flipper mechs the same as the coils on the original flash?
very curious if the upgrade gives you a little more strength.
Quoted from swinks:looking great
with the flipper upgrades, very interested are you running with the original boards and rules? are the coils in the flipper mechs the same as the coils on the original flash?
very curious if the upgrade gives you a little more strength.
I'm going to remove all the original solid state components and 90% of the wiring, creating my own switch and light matrixes, and use P-ROC boards. The ruleset will be entirely different - objective-based modes rather than straight-up scoring.
Quoted from TopMoose:I'm going to remove all the original solid state components and 90% of the wiring, creating my own switch and light matrixes, and use P-ROC boards. The ruleset will be entirely different - objective-based modes rather than straight-up scoring.
thanks for explaining, great work on the project
Quoted from swinks:looking great
with the flipper upgrades, very interested are you running with the original boards and rules? are the coils in the flipper mechs the same as the coils on the original flash?
very curious if the upgrade gives you a little more strength.
I expect that the new flipper mechs may be a little stronger than the originals, but they're certainly going to be more sturdy.
As I mentioned earlier, I plan on setting up my own light and switch matrices (matrixes? matrix's?) so today's project is to clear the underside of the playfield. I left behind the GI circuits (no reason to re-wire those), a few connections here and there and I left the drop target wires dangling to help me keep track of future wiring.
They came! My plastics graphics came today!
I applied them the same way as the playfield and cabinet decals, using the "hinge" method and trimmed them using an X-acto blade. Repeat nine times and I have a full set of completed plastics!
I had my printer make some decals for the lower apron at the same time as he did the cabinet decals, but after I applied them and removed the tack paper, I noticed a problem with the fonts. 
So when he made my plastics graphics, I had him run a revised file. Much better now. Then I added some temporary instruction cards and put everything in place.
...and with that, I'm ready to declare the first phase of this project done! 
What we have here is a very expensive pinball-shaped piece of non-functioning furniture. The body of my Frankenstein's monster is complete - the next step will be to give it a nervous system and a brain. 
Quoted from TopMoose:They came! My plastics graphics came today!
I applied them the same way as the playfield and cabinet decals, using the "hinge" method and trimmed them using an X-acto blade. Repeat nine times and I have a full set of completed plastics!
Those look great. I will need to make plastics for my re-theme soon so I'm still trying to figure out which approach to use. It looks like you attached the image to the top of the plastic? Did you apply any type of laminate or clear coat on the image? Were they printed on a material designed to be backlit or is it just white paper?
Quoted from docquest:Those look great. I will need to make plastics for my re-theme soon so I'm still trying to figure out which approach to use
http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Custom_Parts
Quoted from docquest:Those look great. I will need to make plastics for my re-theme soon so I'm still trying to figure out which approach to use. It looks like you attached the image to the top of the plastic? Did you apply any type of laminate or clear coat on the image? Were they printed on a material designed to be backlit or is it just white paper?
I asked my printer to use a white translucent vinyl used for lightboxes and to make it a "reverse sticker," with the adhesive on the printed side, so I could stick them on the underside of the clear plastic pieces.
The next step will be to wire up the light matrix and I've come up with my 6 X 8 grid, below.
Question: I know that the signal will go from the P-ROC to each column sequentially from top to bottom (i.e. P-ROC > 1 > 2 > 3... etc.) but what about the rows? Does the signal come from the P-ROC and go left-to-right (i.e. P-ROC > 1 > 9 > 17... etc.) or does it go into the P-ROC from right to left (i.e. ...17 > 9 > 1 > P-ROC)?
In other words, should the P-ROC connect to the rows from 1, 2, 3, 4... etc. or from 41, 42, 43, 44, etc.?
Quoted from TopMoose:The next step will be to wire up the light matrix and I've come up with my 6 X 8 grid, below.
Question: I know that the signal will go from the P-ROC to each column sequentially from top to bottom (i.e. P-ROC > 1 > 2 > 3... etc.) but what about the rows? Does the signal come from the P-ROC and go left-to-right (i.e. P-ROC > 1 > 9 > 17... etc.) or does it go into the P-ROC from right to left (i.e. ...17 > 9 > 1 > P-ROC)?
In other words, should the P-ROC connect to the rows from 1, 2, 3, 4... etc. or from 41, 42, 43, 44, etc.?
It occurs to me that this isn't really a problem - I could, theoretically, connect the rows to the P-ROC at any point because once the line is energized, all the points it includes are energized. Moving on to the next question: how to wire the master switch mounted on the bottom of the cabinet.
Below is a diagram I came up with showing all the components I'll need and how they'll be set up.
Question #1: How does one connect the three wires from the wall socket (positive, negative, ground) to the two-pronged cabinet switch?
Question #2: How does one further wire the cabinet switch so the power splits into the two power supply devices?
Any help and/or photos would be welcome!
Excellent work, following along!
Always switch power using the hot wire. This is the black wire.
So, black wire from your main electric cord into the switch and two wires on the other side of the switch to your power component inputs. You probably though should add a fuse in line before going in to your components....so:
Electrical line black wire-----switch-----fuse----< two black wires, one to each power supply.
Hope that makes sense?
Edit. PS- also connect white from power cord to white of power supplies. And ground of power cord to ground of power supplies
Eric
Quoted from emsrph:Excellent work, following along!
Always switch power using the hot wire. This is the black wire.
So, black wire from your main electric cord into the switch and two wires on the other side of the switch to your power component inputs. You probably though should add a fuse in line before going in to your components....so:
Electrical line black wire-----switch-----fuse----< two black wires, one to each power supply.
Hope that makes sense?
Eric
It does! Thank you! I'd also need to split the negative and ground wires to connect to the power supplies too, no? I'm thinking it might be easier to get one of these, chop off the plugs and connect the wires as needed.
Toronto, ON
Yes, added as an edit, white and grounds will need to be connected respectively.
You can split the power with that cord but if your power supplies don't have plugs then it might be better to make all your connections within a utility outlet box. That way you can also have a power outlet (switched or always live) for soldering or adding mods.
Quoted from emsrph:Yes, added as an edit, white and grounds will need to be connected respectively.
You can split the power with that cord but if your power supplies don't have plugs then it might be better to make all your connections within a utility outlet box. That way you can also have a power outlet (switched or always live) for soldering or adding mods.
That is a fantastic idea. 
Here are the power supply components I'm looking at. Neither appears to have a standard plug, so wiring will have to be connected to the lugs.
Screen Shot 2016-09-02 at 2.29.55 PM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2016-09-02 at 2.29.40 PM (resized).png
Is there not one device that puts out three different voltages? That would make things a lot easier.
You could wire up your power supplies similar to Wolfmarsh in his Spaceballs thread, post #353 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spaceballs-the-pin/page/8
Eric
You connect the wire coming back from the on/off switch to L(ive), green ground wire to ground symbol. The neutral wire connects to N. Then you also connect them to other power supply. The +V connects to the FAST power supply high power connector and -V goes to ground connector on board.
Once those voltages go into the FAST board there is an output connector you can send those voltages to whatever boards you are using.
If you need 5V and 6V there is another connector on FAST board you can use but you probably need another power supply. However if you use LEDS you can probably get away with 5V(?).
Hope this helps! Now can you help me with my art? lol just kidding.
Quoted from mwiz:Once those voltages go into the FAST board there is an output connector you can send those voltages to whatever boards you are using.
If you need 5V and 6V there is another connector on FAST board you can use but you probably need another power supply. However if you use LEDS you can probably get away with 5V(?).
Hope this helps! Now can you help me with my art? lol just kidding.
That looks like fantastic work and helps me out a lot! Diagrams are a start but it helps to see photos of what it looks like put together.
Questions: Do your Raspberry Pi and main board (P-ROC?) require 12V? Someone recommended including fuses between the power devices and logic boards - the Fast power filter does that, yes?
Graphics are the easy part for me but I'm winging it when it comes to the electrical engineering - what's your game's theme?
I's been a long, exciting day for me as I started wiring the lamp matrixes! I revised them a little from what I posted a few days ago, but everything went pretty smoothly. Columns and rows are color-coded in ROYGBIV order. Columns wires are grouped with red zip ties and rows are grouped with yellow. My fingers smell like flux.
I bought the power supplies from ebay. The one on the left is only 28-32 V. Right now I'm using the same flipper coils that the FP did. Those coils only ran at 28V. I may switch flipper coils and put in a 48V PS.
Right now I'm using a raspberry pi 3 as my computer and MPF for software. I'm using the FAST nano and their i/o boards. The FAST power filter board's fuses protect HV, 12V, and 5V lines.
Right now for my theme I'm leaning towards Robotech (my favorite cartoon when I was a kid).
How are you gonna drive your displays?
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