I put a N.O.S. plunger lane guide in my Flash and have been unable to adjust it correctly. Shots either hit the upper left "guard" post, or nick off the third flipper. If you have a Flash, would you post a photo of your lane guide adjustment setting from above, along with any words of advice?

p.s. Does the placement of the gate (i.e., toward the top or bottom of the playfield) affect the ball's trajectory?

This is what mine looks like:

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Here's what the playfield looks like from above:IMG_1743 (resized).JPG
Here's a closer view of the adjustment slot. It appears this metal guide is about 1/8" toward the top of the playfield, as compared to the machine screw hole:IMG_1744 (resized).JPG
The original plunger guide bracket on this game had been filed to align with the hole, but that bracket broke. I wonder if I could move the spiral nail holes in the wood, or "oval" them to allow the whole bracket to move toward the plunger that 1/8"?IMG_1745 (resized).JPG

Close scrutiny reveals that the ball isn't following the curve of the guide - it's hitting it hard and reflecting off, never touching the last portion of the guide. It seems like moving the whole guide toward the plunger, and imparting a bit more curve (OK, bending it) might help.

Good observation! Believe it or not, the original had that nail less deep, allowing the guide to "fade" out into the ball path sooner. I think pounding the nail in farther (as I did when installing the new guide) makes for a harder hit when the ball gets to the guide.

I loosened that nail a bit and taped a little rubber lip on the very end of the ball guide and the plunger shot is suddenly OK - even allowing for subtleties of shots. The top of the guide could possibly be bent to do the same thing, but I got into this problem by way of a broken bracket. I'm reluctant to do much metal bending that near the new bracket, so I may clean up the little inner-tube installation and see how long it lasts.

I'll post a photo later.

My inner-tube rubber fix now allows the three plunges you describe.IMG_1746 (resized).JPG If it doesn't prove durable, I'll figure out a way to bend the metal a bit. The original operator of this game had done just what your manual quote suggested - put a wood screw in to lock the bracket in place. Unfortunately, the bracket broke. This game spent 1979-1986 in a state college arcade and that bracket must've taken a lot of pounding!

Yeah, it may be. Based on those lines etched into the playfield, I think this metal guide would be better 1/8" closer to the plunger, but if I can get it to work without taking it apart and filing the nail holes, it'll do.

Thanks for the advice!

Thanks, Stephan - that helps. My bracket resides about 1/8" toward the top of the playfield compared to yours (manufacturing variance?). Balls like to hit the 3rd flipper. I think I may file the spiral-nail holes to allow the guide to mount 1/8" toward the plunger.

Bent minds think alike?

OK, I filed the spiral nail holes in the metal to oval, allowing the entire plunger guide to move roughly 1/16-1/8" toward the plunger. Then I gently curved the upper portion of the guide (the part above the "L" bracket spot welded onto the guide). It came with that portion nearly straight. Reinstalling the spiral nails, I left the top one not pounded all the way in, which allows the metal guide to start curving the ball's path earlier.

Once the guide was reinstalled, adjusted and tested, I made a new hole for the tiny screw which makes the angle setting permanent. Now I can plunge the ball softly and pick off individual drop targets, plunge it "medium" and get to the upper rollovers, and plunge it hard and orbit around to the upper right flipper. Plus, the ball never hits the tip of that flipper on the way out of the plunger guide, as it did before.

Boy, does it ever make the game more fun when you can select a skill shot!

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Hi Stephan,

I'm sure you've figured out the adjustment mechanism, but in case not, all you have to do initially is remove playfield glass and fit a screwdriver down the hole in the long plastic at the top of the plunger lane. You can do some adjusting without having to physically alter the metal as I ended up doing.

Greg

You'll probably need to remove the black screw. If you return the guide to the indented washer location and like how it works, you can always drill a little hole for the black "lock" screw in one of the other 2 little holes in the guide.