Hello there! I just acquired a Flash pinball machine that is in need of some work for my son. This is my introduction into the pinball world and I was referred to this site as a great resource.

Please excuse my lack of knowledge and proper terminology but I am here to learn and to make a valiant attempt to get this machine up and running properly again.

My first hurdle was that the 2.5 Amp SB fuse was blowing. I quickly found that the left bumper solenoid (above the left flipper) was activated constantly just before the fuse would blow. I removed the wires from that solenoid, replaces the fuse and it no longer trips the fuse. However, when I read across the solenoid it indicates ~4.6 ohms which seems nominal.

At least the machine will stay powered on and several of the solenoids work for a period of time with that one solenoid disconnected. At some point things will stop working until I hear a reset and they will work again for a while. Strange.

Digging a little deeper I found that the free game knocker solenoid looked burned up and I found a wire disconnected off of it. Probably from when it got really hot. It is shorted out and has less than 1 ohm of resistance across the terminals.

Needless to say I ordered 2 solenoids and I am awaiting their arrival.

I’ve briefly read the available manual online and it make no mention of the device (that I saw) in front of the sound board and above the
tilt sensor pendulum. There’s a little track with a pinball and a switch at the end. What is that for?

Also on the circuit board in the upper left corner of the cabinet it looks like there used to be circuitry/IC’s that were removed at some point?

I was also wondering how I can tell the year/revision of the machine. I did find a tag that says cabinet 13011. Update: I found the serial # 377986.

I’ve added a few photos to help show what I’m asking about.

Thank you!
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Can you explain the slam switches to me, where they are located and what they look like please.

Just a noob trying to learn.

Thanks!

Update: found them.

Thank you for your reply! I see from your profile that you are in the Renton area. I live near Mill Creek so we are “neighbors” in a sense!

Thanks for the information. I started reading through this entire thread but haven’t finished yet. I thought that the captured ball in the track was a tilt sensor of some sort but I also noticed that it would never actuate the switch. I think a previous owner bent the switch bracket a bit to avoid it being actuated.

Any insight into the board that I took a picture of with the lower left area appearing to be re-worked to remove some integrated circuits? I’ve searched the web looking at the insides of other Flash pinball machines and I’ve noticed that most of them don’t look like the one I have. I’m not sure if mine is an oddball or if they used several different boards and configurations during production.

Thanks again!

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Thanks! So basically this is an updated board so it shouldn’t be an issue. In a way it’s a good thing that it was updated at some point.

I noticed that the proms for the flippers have a green sticker and the one labeled “Flash” indicates either u14 or v14. Any significance in those markings?

Another question: I’ve got two solenoids currently disconnected. Is it ok to apply power with those disconnected and the wires isolated or might that cause an issue somehow? I ordered some replacement solenoids and I’d like to do some more troubleshooting while I’m awaiting parts. Thanks again!

Updated:

Thank you for your reply. For clarification, initially the game was blowing the F2 2 amp slow blow 28 VDC fuse for the solenoids. I noticed that the left kicker was actuated constantly until the fuse blew. I removed the wires for that solenoid and the fuse no longer blows. Upon further investigation I found that the free game knocker solenoid appeared to be burned up and found the single wire (I think green) not connected to the solenoid. I tested that solenoid and it’s a dead short across the terminals. The left kicker solenoid did not look burned up and measures about 4.6 ohms across the solenoid.

Basically the knocker solenoid is toast, the left slingshot (Kicker) solenoid was acting up. I can’t say when exactly the knocker fried as I didn’t discover it until after I removed the wiring from the left slingshot (kicker) solenoid. However, I never smelled anything or saw any smoke so I believe it was that way when I received the game and just didn’t notice it until later.

I just received 2 replacement solenoids and I will install those and see what happens next.

Update: I replaced both the left slingshot solenoid and the free game knocker solenoid. The good news is that when we fired it up we had good sound and sound effects which we didn’t have before. The bad news is that after awhile the solenoid fuse blew again. More troubleshooting ensued and we noticed that the replacement left slingshot solenoid was getting warm. I removed and isolated the power wire from that solenoid so we could test everything out. We noticed that when the bank of 3 drop targets were actuated the game faulted out. We reset everything and tried the bank of three drop targets again. This time we saw some smoke come off of the driver board just below the large relay and immediately turned off the game and unplugged the power. Now I’m at a loss at what to do.

Do you still own tour Flash pinball machine?

Thanks again!

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Glad to hear that! I’m just starting on a unit I acquired the other day. My first pinball machine so a steep learning curve. Fortunately I know a thing or two about wiring and electricity so that helps but I still have a TON to learn about what makes these things work.

Great, I'm glad your game is up and running. I definitely have some gremlins playing around inside the machine. I disconnected the left slingshot/kicker (it likes to be engaged all the time) and I had the machine up and running pretty good, everything seemed to be working except the left kicker which I had disabled. However, when I let my son play it, it started acting all wonky again. The left pop bumper, the spinner, and one rollover started killing the game again. All of which had issues in the recent past.

I have decided to box all 4 boards up (MPU, Driver, Power Supply, & Sound) and send them to Chris Hibler for fixing, upgrading and testing. That way when I receive them back I know that anything else is related to to physical machine.

I learned from Chris that the large lighting resistors always get hot and the discoloration on the board is "normal." Still not really happy with that answer but he's been doing this a long time.

I've already replaced the burned out solenoid for the "free game" knocker and the solenoid for the left kicker/slingshot (this one was probably good as it tests good with my meter) but after I replaced the "free game" solenoid I got the sound effects back.

Progress.....I know it's going to take some time and patience.

I’m working on one that I just acquired too. The unit I have has the green ROMS on what I believe is a system 4 MPU board and makes the same sounds as your 1st video.

Good luck with your project!

Ok, I was doing a once over of the wiring underneath the playfield and I found a broken component that attaches to one of the pop bumper switches. It is circled in the photo.

The markings that I can read on it are:

22K
+10VDC
7902

Is this a capacitor? If so, what is the proper replacement?

Also, I was wondering, in a pinch, can I solder the lead back onto the capacitor? The wire lead broke off at the “top” where it exits the component and the remaining lead is still connected to the pop bumper switch.
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Thanks! Yes, they all have it. Just one has a broken lead.

Thanks! Now I just have to source them.

This looks like a suitable replacement. However, from the photo I can’t see the polarity.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C22M10VA

How does the voltage play into it? Can I get a higher voltage (I.E. 50V) to replace a 10V? Is one preferred over the other?

In sticking with the OEM tantalum type this is the closest I could find, it should work.

Thanks for all of the help!

Siemens
ST513 Series
Sealed Tantalum
22uF, 35V, 10%
Military grade
Axial leads

Didn’t know that. Crap.....

Anyone have any experience or input on using this product? Looks like it might be a good solution to my wear area but I’m not sure if it’s the right thing to do.

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Wow, good to know, thank you! I too have the sunken inserts. The playfield protector seems like a good idea too. Does it actually go over the rollovers or is it cut out around them? Was it difficult to install? Did you install the arrow and circle decals over or under the protector?

Any photos that you’d be willing to share with me? Thanks again!

Thanks again!

Thank you! I’ll definitely look into the magic eraser treatment and you’re the second one to mention the playfield protector so that might be the wise way to go.

I don’t necessarily want (at this point) to restore it but I also don’t want it to degrade any further.

Thanks again!

Wow, very nice, good job!

Excuse my lack of knowledge but how do the playfield protectors attach to the playfield? I presume it’s not sticky like the Mylar.

Very nicely done! What is your opinion on the playfield protector?

Thank you! I’ve decided that my #1 priority is to get the game functional first. My boards are currently being worked on by a magician. In the interim I’m checking over the wiring and cleaning/waxing the playfield. Once the boards are back I’ll see how the game behaves.

If all goes well, I’ll go ahead and get the protector.

The red looks awesome! Good job!

Thanks, I may have to tweak mine a little bit too.

Just to add a little tidbit about my situation. I’ve used two sound boards. One that was rebuilt, and a brand new unit from nvramweebly.com. Both do EXACTLY the same thing so it isn’t the sound cards. After some time the background sound shuts off and won’t return until a power cycle. A quick one won’t cut it. It needs to be off for at least a few minutes. The longer it’s off the longer it will stay on until it cuts out and visa versa.

Oh, and the three other boards on the machine were also completely overhauled.

Do you get anything when you press the test button on the board? It could be anything from speaker, to speaker wires, other wiring or a bad board that needs to be rebuilt.

Great! I hope that fixed yours! Keep me posted.

I’m still battling mine where the background sound just cuts out after a period of time. All other sounds work as they should.

We’re all human and prone to making mistakes! Glad you resolved it.

Any idea why the fuse blew in the first place?

Thanks for the moral support. No, I haven’t figured out the sound issue on my Flash yet. I do know that it isn’t the sound board as both of my sound boards do the same exact thing. I don’t think it is a wiring issue so that leaves me with a board issue. I suspect that there is a weak component or a solder joint that is causing the problem.

However, all the boards were refurbished so it will be hard to isolate. I’d have to know where the background sound comes from, what controls it and probably need an oscilloscope to monitor the output to see where it drops off. I just don’t have the tools or technical knowledge to figure this out at the moment. If someone knew the path of the background sound and how I could measure it I’d be miles ahead. Surely it can’t be too difficult.

It certainly does, down to the “wood chip” in the lower left corner and the “water stains” in the lower left area.

That’s dedication right there. I cleaned mine, waxed it several times and left it at that. I’m no artist so forget painting. My inserts are moderately dished but I just am letting it go as is. Makes it a unique gameplay experience.