(Topic ID: 174771)

Flash owners club...official..


By Milltown

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 13 days ago by Pizzaman13
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There are 365 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 8.
#301 3 months ago
Quoted from algum123:

I had the same issue with my Flash, the center flash insert really is not much. I originally went to brighter LED replacements, and even added a 3rd one, but still not enough. I then added a strobe light on the top of the machine to fire at the same time: This was something I occasionally saw on location back when Flash first came out, but that was still not enough. I finally after a fair amount of hacking wired in an EnerGI Maestro, and now all the GI flashes.

Man, that actually sounds insane. When I think of all the GI flashing, I think of blackout, but with the extra flashing, and frequency, I'll bet this is quite a bit cooler.

Any videos of this to share? I'd be curious how you hooked up the strobe as well.

--------------

On another note:
Very happy to have my flash working again, it was working fine, and I was cleaning it up a bit, when it decided to no longer start properly. I guess at some point the ram just decided to die... just so confusing when you are working on the machine, to have something just go like that. sigh_.

Anyway, very glad for the excuse to finally get the NVRam in anyway

20200223_235916 (resized).jpg
#302 3 months ago

i just bought a flash a month ago!

#303 89 days ago
Quoted from Randy_G:

i just bought a flash a month ago!

Congrats! Its a lot of fun to play

#304 89 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I’m looking for some thoughts on the big flash in the center. After LED'izing my table, I find that even with new bulbs, the center flash is really underwhelming. I would like it to be really bright, something epic to match the crash of thunder sound effect. I was thinking of some kind of custom bank of 7 or so LED's or do the larger bulb sockets under it have matching LED's?

I found these:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-owners-clubofficial/page/6#post-5249809

I wish they were even brighter, but I am happy with them. They aren’t cheap at $10 each, but if you want the best...

#305 89 days ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I found these:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-owners-clubofficial/page/6#post-5249809
I wish they were even brighter, but I am happy with them. They aren’t cheap at $10 each, but if you want the best...

Brilliant solution (lol) I will definitely get me some of those.

For anyone who has been bothered by a humm from the loudspeakers, I have a quick and easy hack. ALthough the FLash isn't as bad as some games because of the constant sound, since mine is in the house I keep the volume down and the humm is very noticable. The right answer is to get rid of it and I've heard people use oscilliscopes to track the waveform through the power system, or use a computer power supply as an alternative. For a quick and easy fix I went with a potentiometer.

I snipped one of the wires going to the speaker and put in the pot, it is essentially a variable resistor so I can use it to turn down the volume. Since it is right before the speaker, the volume it turns down includes the humm, then I turn the volume on the sound board up and voila! the humm is gone. You can't max the sound as high but I am not in a noisy arcade and don't run it at full volume anyway.

Here is the link to the pot if anyone is interested. I have a rescue 911 with a loud humm and I think I will try this technique on it as well.
amazon.com link »

Here is a picture, I've just got jumper wires for now

DSC00422 (resized).JPG
#306 89 days ago

Has anyone here had a chance to install the replacement drop target contact circuit board kits for early Williams System 3 through System 6 solid state pinball machine drop target assemblies from Marco Specialties? If so, how did it go for you? How are they working now?

I have had my FLASH sitting idle for a bit and forgot I bought these a bit back so I figured its time to get this all sorted out. Thanks!

1 week later
#307 82 days ago

Hello, I've been reading about a circuit to add a strobe light as a topper. I was wondering if anyone could share the method / way that they wired this up?

Thank you-

#308 82 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Hello, I've been reading about a circuit to add a strobe light as a topper. I was wondering if anyone could share the method / way that they wired this up?
Thank you-

I have not done one but conceptually the first thing is to decide when it goes off. Is it all the time, just when the “flash” happens or what?

Once you have that, try running a wire from the 2 sides of the lamp that comes on at the right time to your light. The circuit that lights that lamp sends electricity at the right time. You just have to be careful not to put too much of a load, a few lights should be no big deal but a lot of load might burn out something that is sized for a small bulb

#309 82 days ago

I know back in the day when they first came out I occasionally saw a strobe on top; I think one of the amusement bussiness related magazines had a circuit described, not sure if it was ever officially supported by Williams, nor was I ever able to find out the details, but I did come up with something that works.

Originally I though of putting one together from individual parts, or modifying an of-the-shell unit to trigger it internally, but I was not comfortable dealing with the high voltages present and potentially exposing the rest of the electronics to damage. I suppose if you went with an LED strobe, rather than xenon, the risk would be much lower and easier to connect.

I eventually kind of cheated, but it works quite well: I got one of the old classic style box strobe units, and directly switched 120v line voltage to it on and off using an SSR (Solid State Relay), the top device in the photo (the lower regular relay is for the GI flashing). I hooked the bulbs under the flash insert to trigger the SSR, and ran 120v through the switched side to an outlet that the strobe lamp plugs into. Even though the 120v pulse is very short, the strobe charges up and fires so fast that even a brief pulse is enough to flash it several times. Not sure if all strobe units will work, but the simple one I got does. The unit has a dial to adjust the flash rate, and you can easily set a point where it almost always flashes just once, although you can change it to flash several times if you want a different effect.

The SSR I used requires a 5v supply to activate, since I wanted to only drive this when the game was active, not strobe all the time during atract mode. I don't remember the exact details how I did this, but I think I hooked up to the flipper relay somehow so that only when the flippers are active during a game is the relay enabled. If you want to always have the strobe flash, even in atract mode, you can use a simpler SSR that does not require extra 5v power.

A bit of hack, but it works quiet well. Not sure if this approach will shorten the life expectancy of the strobe, but I have been using it for years without trouble. At some point I need to record a video of how this looks and possibly wired up, including how I got all the GI to flash as well...

IMG_20200303_100333 (resized).jpgIMG_20200303_100348 (resized).jpgIMG_20200303_100303 (resized).jpg
#310 82 days ago
Quoted from algum123:

I know back in the day when they first came out I occasionally saw a strobe on top; I think one of the amusement bussiness related magazines had a circuit described, not sure if it was ever officially supported by Williams, nor was I ever able to find out the details, but I did come up with something that works.
Originally I though of putting one together from individual parts, or modifying an of-the-shell unit to trigger it internally, but I was not comfortable dealing with the high voltages present and potentially exposing the rest of the electronics to damage. I suppose if you went with an LED strobe, rather than xenon, the risk would be much lower and easier to connect.
I eventually kind of cheated, but it works quite well: I got one of the old classic style box strobe units, and directly switched 120v line voltage to it on and off using an SSR (Solid State Relay), the top device in the photo (the lower regular relay is for the GI flashing). I hooked the bulbs under the flash insert to trigger the SSR, and ran 120v through the switched side to an outlet that the strobe lamp plugs into. Even though the 120v pulse is very short, the strobe charges up and fires so fast that even a brief pulse is enough to flash it several times. Not sure if all strobe units will work, but the simple one I got does. The unit has a dial to adjust the flash rate, and you can easily set a point where it almost always flashes just once, although you can change it to flash several times if you want a different effect.
The SSR I used requires a 5v supply to activate, since I wanted to only drive this when the game was active, not strobe all the time during atract mode. I don't remember the exact details how I did this, but I think I hooked up to the flipper relay somehow so that only when the flippers are active during a game is the relay enabled. If you want to always have the strobe flash, even in atract mode, you can use a simpler SSR that does not require extra 5v power.
A bit of hack, but it works quiet well. Not sure if this approach will shorten the life expectancy of the strobe, but I have been using it for years without trouble. At some point I need to record a video of how this looks and possibly wired up, including how I got all the GI to flash as well...

Interesting, thanks for the pics. Like you say, I would have expected too much delay, so it is great to know it can work just like that.

I was thining of trying to re-use an old camera flash. Thanks for the tip about the SSR working in this case. Did you use the mod board someone made up for the GI? Cant' recall the name now, or did you modify directly?

Thanks-

-Koji

#311 78 days ago

has anyone else had trouble setting the number of balls? I did a factory reset and it defaults to 3 balls. Whats weird is the setting (function 31) says its supposed to be set to 03 or 05. After the factory reset it was at zero. setting to 05 (or 03) does not change it.

I have rebuilt boards with the green roms

#312 78 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

has anyone else had trouble setting the number of balls? I did a factory reset and it defaults to 3 balls. Whats weird is the setting (function 31) says its supposed to be set to 03 or 05. After the factory reset it was at zero. setting to 05 (or 03) does not change it.

I have rebuilt boards with the green roms

The end of the Flash manual, page 61 of 62, shows the settings for the green roms.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/871/Williams_1979_Flash_Manual.pdf

Beginning at Function 25 the Function number is different when using the green roms - the 'Number of balls (03 or 05)' is Function 30, not 31.

#313 78 days ago

Oh wow I had forgotten about the manual addendum. Thank you!

1 week later
#314 68 days ago

When I raise the playfield and support it with the metal support built into the cabinet, my playfield crawls up on the right side and leans to the left. If I ignore it, it will actually fall on me.

Anybody else have that problem? Solve it?

#315 68 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

When I raise the playfield and support it with the metal support built into the cabinet, my playfield crawls up on the right side and leans to the left. If I ignore it, it will actually fall on me.
Anybody else have that problem? Solve it?

That's odd, I am assuming you are using the recessed area for the prop rod (so it is not slipping under the PF), and also that the back of the PF is nearly all the way back on the rails against the backing under the head? (When I lift a PF like this, I would typically pull it out a couple of inches, raise it up and prop it, then carefully allow it to slide a bit back so that it is flush against the back. The only reason I pull it out slightly is to avoid damage to the back plastics). As far as falling, I don't see how this could happen unless part of the rail is broken, although this PF will flex more than most pinballs, as I don't believe the wood is as strong.

That said, I would never do much work like this, and it isn't good for the PF to leave it like this for any length of time. I would typically just pull it forward and raise it all the way up.

#316 68 days ago

Just pulled a big bonehead move. I've been filling inserts with Polycrylic over past month and decided to go ahead and clearcoat the whole Playfield. Did first coat 5 days ago. Sanded today lightly and got my gun and everything ready and sprayed 2nd coat. Its really starting to look good and then I notice I didnt put the old 47 bulbs back in sockets. Duh! So I went around and qtipped every lamp socket 5 times with alcohol. Did I fck up bad or am I ok? Feel like an idiot. I was pumped to get another coat on and went to asleep. I did have them in for 1st coat.

#317 68 days ago

">That's odd, I am assuming you are using the recessed area for the prop rod (so it is not slipping under the PF), and also that the back of the PF is nearly all the way back on the rails against the backing under the head?"

Yeah - there are two vertical metal strips on the cabinet that the far end of the playfield rests against when it's lifted up; it seems to crawl up the right one and get increasingly cocked to the left. For now, I cut a broom handle and used it to prop up the left side.

#318 66 days ago

My first gameplay video. Bit of a ghetto setup video-wise, but it's what I could cobble together

Hopefully it helps with some ideas of how the machine can be set up, so far as the repeatable loop goes, strafing the 3-bank targets, full plunge loops to third flipper etc. Thanks to this forum, it also has the strobe light mod, but not too visible in this video (Gotta love the room flashing up with the lightning tho)

#319 66 days ago

Hey y'all,

Finally got my Flash PLAYABLE, and it's a blast to shoot!

I do have a couple weird things that aren't working, though, and I'm not sure why:

- the blue Flash crescent never goes off
- the ascending tone never happens (I've seen it in videos...it doesn't happen on mine)

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

#320 66 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey y'all,
Finally got my Flash PLAYABLE, and it's a blast to shoot!
I do have a couple weird things that aren't working, though, and I'm not sure why:
- the blue Flash crescent never goes off
- the ascending tone never happens (I've seen it in videos...it doesn't happen on mine)
Any help appreciated! Thanks!

Congratulations on fixing the machine.

I had an issue with the blue flash crescent, in my case, one of the bulbs was burnt out, this will cause the whole thing to fail as they are connected, so make sure both bulbs and all connectors are good.

For the background tone, you need to set one of the software options for this to be 'on'. Check the manual for the correct setting and note the ROM type you are using.

Good luck!

#321 65 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Congratulations on fixing the machine.
I had an issue with the blue flash crescent, in my case, one of the bulbs was burnt out, this will cause the whole thing to fail as they are connected, so make sure both bulbs and all connectors are good.
For the background tone, you need to set one of the software options for this to be 'on'. Check the manual for the correct setting and note the ROM type you are using.
Good luck!

Thanks for this! Going to get a couple of LEDs for the bulbs, and I'm ordering the 1 ohm resistor in case that's jacked up, too. Does anyone know, is there a schematic somewhere for that board on the underside of the playfield that controls these lights?

I'll look into the tone setting, too, thank you; I didn't realize it was a setting!

#322 65 days ago

Has anyone done a speaker upgrade on their flash? Although the kits would be great I don’t think I can justify $150 for it, I am thinking some $20 speaker direct replacements

#323 65 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Thanks for this! Going to get a couple of LEDs for the bulbs, and I'm ordering the 1 ohm resistor in case that's jacked up, too. Does anyone know, is there a schematic somewhere for that board on the underside of the playfield that controls these lights?
I'll look into the tone setting, too, thank you; I didn't realize it was a setting!

Cool, just note you do not want the warming resistor with LED. See:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-flash-killed-the-flashers

Also maybe check voltages to see if it is just a loose connector (if the bulbs are ok).

I believe the schematic is in the manual you can DL off of ipdb.

#324 63 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Cool, just note you do not want the warming resistor with LED. See:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-flash-killed-the-flashers
Also maybe check voltages to see if it is just a loose connector (if the bulbs are ok).
I believe the schematic is in the manual you can DL off of ipdb.

Awesome; yeah, I found that thread earlier, and that's a good note about the warming resistor.

The schematic, as far as I can tell, is actually not in the manual, although admittedly I'm new to reading schematics and whatnot, and maybe I'm just totally missing it. If anyone has a page # for me to check, it'd be appreciated. Thanks for all the advice!

1 week later
#325 51 days ago

Hey again, everyone—new problem developed...

The right flipper is strangely weak, and will often do a "double-flip" kind of reaction when activated (I have a video I could share, if that doesn't make sense; basically, it'll quickly activate/deactivate/reactivate).

I've read the Vid thread about adjustments to the leaf switch gap, and how they should be set up, but setting the closed switch to open to exactly 1/8" when the plunger is fully depressed upon activation of the solenoid hasn't helped. Any recommendation on what ELSE could be wrong? Or is it possible the new switch that I put on is bad, in some way?

Not sure if it means anything, but there's a noticeable hum when the right flipper is activated that isn't there when the left is activated. It's not always the same hum, either, from flip to flip. Unsure if this is relevant, but thought I'd mention it.

Attaching a couple photos, in case they can shed any light on what might be wrong.

Thanks, as always, y'all.

IMG_6597 (resized).jpgIMG_6598 (resized).jpg
#326 51 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey again, everyone—new problem developed...
The right flipper is strangely weak, and will often do a "double-flip" kind of reaction when activated (I have a video I could share, if that doesn't make sense; basically, it'll quickly activate/deactivate/reactivate).
I've read the Vid thread about adjustments to the leaf switch gap, and how they should be set up, but setting the closed switch to open to exactly 1/8" when the plunger is fully depressed upon activation of the solenoid hasn't helped. Any recommendation on what ELSE could be wrong? Or is it possible the new switch that I put on is bad, in some way?
Not sure if it means anything, but there's a noticeable hum when the right flipper is activated that isn't there when the left is activated. It's not always the same hum, either, from flip to flip. Unsure if this is relevant, but thought I'd mention it.
Attaching a couple photos, in case they can shed any light on what might be wrong.
Thanks, as always, y'all.

Hmm, if the EOS on both right flippers is good, maybe check the switch on the right button? just make sure the contacts are really clean and fully engaged with the button?

#327 51 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Hmm, if the EOS on both right flippers is good, maybe check the switch on the right button? just make sure the contacts are really clean and fully engaged with the button?

Yeah, I've replaced that switch, too; brand new, seems to be making the connection fine!

#328 51 days ago

Hmm, I have a hacky switch on my right flipper, but that switch stack you have looks odd to me.

I'm thinking the lower leaf should be bent toward the middle, rather than the other way around, so basically, it is prematurely going EOS on your setup.

#329 51 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Yeah, I've replaced that switch, too; brand new, seems to be making the connection fine!

Hmm, I have a hacky switch on my right flipper, but that switch stack you have looks odd to me.

I'm thinking the lower leaf should be bent toward the middle, so that the first switches are separated closer to the actual EOS?

#330 51 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Hmm, I have a hacky switch on my right flipper, but that switch stack you have looks odd to me.
I'm thinking the lower leaf should be bent toward the middle, so that the first switches are separated closer to the actual EOS?

I'll give this a try...appreciate your advice! Will check back once I can mess around with it...

#331 51 days ago

Hi, mine doesn't have the second pair of switches at all. That's not to say mine is original in configuration, but the flippers work.

IMG_1289 (resized).JPG
#332 51 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Hi, mine doesn't have the second pair of switches at all. That's not to say mine is original in configuration, but the flippers work.

The upper flipper should look like that, the lower right flipper should have a the additional switches.

To confirm, is that a photo of your lower right flipper? If so, I'd be curious to see how they are all wired, as it would definitely be a mod of some kind.

#333 51 days ago

Yeah, lower right flipper. This game is a relatively early System 4 game, and that second set of switch blades is a "lane change" switch. I wonder if System 6 games got "lane change" and earlier games didn't?

#334 50 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Yeah, lower right flipper. This game is a relatively early System 4 game, and that second set of switch blades is a "lane change" switch. I wonder if System 6 games got "lane change" and earlier games didn't?

No, the second switch set is connected to the third flipper in an OE set up. You must have some kind of modification on yours. I have read about it, curious to see the gameplay on yours, I like the idea of your set up better, just not sure of everything involved.

#335 50 days ago

What was the purpose of the second switch? My game's 2 right flippers are wire directly together on the solenoid tabs. They fire in synch; did the double-stack switch delay the upper flipper a hair?

#336 50 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

What was the purpose of the second switch? My game's 2 right flippers are wire directly together on the solenoid tabs. They fire in synch; did the double-stack switch delay the upper flipper a hair?

Yes, to prevent as much of a shock to the circuitry. I don't think it's really needed.

Some of the WMS games of this era that have upper flippers have a staged flipper setup in the cabinet instead, although for non-multiball games, there's really no purpose.

#337 50 days ago

Thanks for the info. I sniffed around and found this old thread on the subject: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-upper-flipper-switch

I'm not sure I'm going to return mine to factory spec, at least not 'til I understand why the original operator changed it. It lived in a college arcade and had many games played on it in this config.

Added 48 days ago:

My friend Ron says that when my machine was in heavy service, the second switch on the EOS stack probably broke or acted up, and the guy working on the machine just yanked it off and resoldered the wires to their current configuration. Both flippers went back to working, arcade patrons stopped complaining - end of story. Seems plausible....

1 week later
#338 40 days ago

Months ago, I cleaned up the score unit mounting boards, installed new double-sided sticky foam and "fixed" my problem of floppy score units (pic #1 is before). They had chafed the paint off the back of my backglass as they lay against it from behind for who-knows how many years and plays. IMG_1117 (resized).JPG

About 4 months later, one of the new double-stick tapes pulled a little bit loose, so I've moved on to home-made mechanical fasteners. I bought .032" x .25" brass strip at the hardware store and bent it to look like pic #2, after first drilling a tiny hole in one end. Then I covered the back of the bracket with electician's tape, inked the visible part black, drilled another tiny hole in the board behind and above the score unit and installed a short screw. IMG_1304 (resized).JPG

Now (so goes my theory), even if the double-stick tape comes loose, the bracket will restrain the score unit and keep it from flopping against the back of the backglass.IMG_1306 (resized).JPG

Stay tuned....

#339 39 days ago

Looks like it will work, is there enough clearance between the backglass and the bracket?

#340 39 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Looks like it will work, is there enough clearance between the backglass and the bracket?

Is "a smidge" a scientific measurement? The brackets are about parallel with the front of the wood surrounds (probably plastic on your machine) on the "player up" and other special light fixtures. The black foam pads constitute the distance to the glass. I'm hopeful that's enough!

#341 39 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Months ago, I cleaned up the score unit mounting boards, installed new double-sided sticky foam and "fixed" my problem of floppy score units (pic #1 is before). They had chafed the paint off the back of my backglass as they lay against it from behind for who-knows how many years and plays.

Your home made bracket should work. If you prefer, some years ago I designed a Williams Display Glass holder - it's available here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/M472WWJ2F/wiliams-display-bracket-for-system-3-7-pinball?optionId=64303053&li=shops

Display bracket

Display bracket detail

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

#342 39 days ago

Wow, those look perfect! Since I made my D.I.Y. brackets, I'm gonna' leave 'em in, but if I do another Williams game I'm buying your brackets. Nice design.

1 week later
#343 28 days ago

My Flash has recently developed a problem with the spinner. With a good shot it used to spin ~20 times. Now it seems like it spins around 10 or so - definitely fewer than it used to. If one manually spins it by flicking it with a finger, it seems to spin fine. I think the problem is the spinner rests at an angle as can be seen in the attached photos. My guess is the ball is not hitting the spinner squarely. I've tried everything I can think of to get it to rest straight up and down - I've fiddled with both mounting posts and I've tried bending the leaf switch both up and down. Has anyone else had this issue or have a possible solution?

IMG_2458 (resized).JPGIMG_2459 (resized).JPG
#344 28 days ago

You have to (carefully) bend the arms of the spinner itself in some cases.

#345 28 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

You have to (carefully) bend the arms of the spinner itself in some cases.

...and if I can add to his advice, look straight down on your spinner and see if the "axle" is cocked a bit forward as it comes out of the spinner. You can bend it ever-so-gently to be in line and see if the spinner hangs true. I recommend taking it out of the frame to do this, as it's really hard to do in place. You can just gently suspend the spinner between your finger and thumb and spin it after little adjustments, to see if you're improving or getting worse.

#346 27 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

...and if I can add to his advice, look straight down on your spinner and see if the "axle" is cocked a bit forward as it comes out of the spinner. You can bend it ever-so-gently to be in line and see if the spinner hangs true. I recommend taking it out of the frame to do this, as it's really hard to do in place. You can just gently suspend the spinner between your finger and thumb and spin it after little adjustments, to see if you're improving or getting worse.

I like your idea but when you say take it out of the frame are you suggesting taking the spinner and its mounting frame out of the machine and adjusting it that way or are you suggesting that you take the spinner completely out of its frame and just hold the spinner between your finger and thumb?

#347 27 days ago

Hi Retroware -

My most successful method is to take the spinner out of its metal frame, adjust the metal wire in the direction I think is appropriate, and then suspend the spinner between my fingers. Using minimal finger pressure its possible to see if you're moving in the right direction without putting the spinner back in the frame each time. You can do that too, of course, but it's kind of a nuisance.IMG_1355 (resized).JPG

If you look closely, you'll notice the wire going to my thumb is just slightly tilted up. If you could see straight down from above, you'd see it's pretty much parallel with the spinner. I think ideally, the center of gravity should be just a hair below the rotational axis.

My theory is that your (and my) spinner gets hit hard and the spinner ends up a bit "behind" the axis, which makes it hang with its base toward the flippers. Form then on, it keeps getting hit hard on the base, further bending the wire and perpetuating the problem.

If you get the wire adjusted about right, once it's back in the machine pressure from the spinner switch will work to keep it vertical. BTW, your spinner looks a bit crowded by the slightly bent frame on the right side; I have my best luck with both sides of the frame truly vertical.

#348 27 days ago

Thanks for the helpful suggestions! I'll give them a try and report back.

#349 26 days ago

Finished my refurb of my Flash i bought in early
Feb. Game was.working except for a couple of inserts
and a switch or 2 which I fixed.Before doing anything else.

So I don't want to bore anybody but I'll list what I did
and.then post some pics.
Rebuilt all mechs under playfield.(first time rebuilding pops)
New flippers assemblies etc. Rebuilt drop targets. All new coil sleeves on everything.
Cleaned all inserts and all switches . New rails made.out of red oak in custom
color. Drop target custom decals. F L A S H for left bank and
M O F for.center bank. Read that master of flow was a nickname
for mr ritchie.
Cleaned and polished coin door ,rails shooter rod and legs .
Did the same for all metal on top of playfield. Touched up paint all over cabinet. Touched up paint on playfield.
New blue.posts, translucent rubber. New pops.
Dripped Minwax Polycrylic into inserts which were really cupped
bad. Once I'd done that a couple of times I decided to just clear
entire playfield
Used spraymax 2k last year on my wing ding playfield.
Decided to buy hf purple gun and just use Minwax Polycrylic
since it was already on the inserts. 6 coats and.lots of
sanding. (6 weeks) my playfield looks and plays great.
Also added sub wire out from cabinet speaker.
Added Inkochnitos bridge board and the special solenoid
saver board from barakandl. Tons of new leds from
comet and almost all of the new parts from pinball
life. Biggest project I've done so far. Very rewarding
but it is a lot of work!! Learned alot. Thx for reading this far.
Was really inspired by 2 threads.. Not another flash restore by Mark532011. The other was Williams Flash amateur garage
restoration by Sunking. Just wanted to share. Thx for reading.
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#350 25 days ago

Lowbeau, I like your ideas for mild mods, especially the changed rail color and custom drop target stickers matching your blue-and-yellow flippers. I got some heavily used plastics (in the way Dr. Frankenstein got heavily used body parts), and I'm experimenting with removing the blue color only. My pipe dream is to get blue off and black on, so that the plastics have a "stormy night sky" look. If it works, I'll post pics.

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