(Topic ID: 174771)

Flash owners club...official..

By Milltown

7 years ago


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  • 976 posts
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  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by epeabs
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There are 976 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 20.
#551 2 years ago

Are there credits on the pin ? Make sure a ball is not stuck somewhere. I hope you didn't lube the plunger or the sleeve (that's unrelated to your start problem) because it will gum up quickly.

#552 2 years ago

Is there credits on the machine? You can generate credits by moving the switch in the coin mech or go into settings and make the replay score nice and low so it generates it's own credits.

#553 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

I stuck my head in the machine and looked at the start switch and the button is making contact, so I’m a little lost as to what could be going on. I have a bad feeling that it’s something more difficult and MPU related, but hoping some wise sage on here will prove me wrong.
This is a system 6, btw.
I do have an electronics background , so that helps. But could anyone help me get started? I just want to play again.
Really appreciate it![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like you got an extremely clean example of this game. Amazing condition actually. If nothing has been done to the boards there are a lot of things to check. Good news is that once the boards have been properly gone through properly (without cutting corners) they are usually very solid. I've been running a set of the same boards in my Blackout and also in FirePower. My Flash is in pieces at the moment and I'm going through that set now. First, take a break then read this whole thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Also check out the club threads on Blackout and FirePower as they have similar boards (sound is different on those). Another resource is the system 3-7 section of pinwiki.com

Glad to hear that Flash is fun. Haven't had a chance to play it yet but looking forward to assembling mine soon and bring it back to life too.

#554 2 years ago

Thanks for the replies guys.

I’ve already figured out the start button issue.

Somehow the free play just randomly changed to 99 in settings between games. I hadn’t even touched the controls for that, so no idea how that happened. I just had to change it back to 00 and everything is back to normal.

Pinball_Postal I did lube the plunger but then wiped it off, after I saw it really wasn’t going to make a difference. I had pretty much polished it to a shine with 800 sandpaper and scotch brite beforehand.

Robotworkshop Thanks for the link!

75B20607-E6C3-4FF1-B721-AF16AB2DDCAD (resized).jpeg75B20607-E6C3-4FF1-B721-AF16AB2DDCAD (resized).jpeg
#555 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

Thanks for the replies guys.
I’ve already figured out the start button issue.
Somehow the free play just randomly changed to 99 in settings between games. I hadn’t even touched the controls for that, so no idea how that happened. I just had to change it back to 00 and everything is back to normal.
Pinball_Postal I did lube the plunger but then wiped it off, after I saw it really wasn’t going to make a difference. I had pretty much polished it to a shine with 800 sandpaper and scotch brite beforehand.
Robotworkshop Thanks for the link![quoted image]

From the pictures I you''l want to consider replacing the large capacitor on the right on the power supply of the 5V supply, Add two 8A SB fuses for the inputs to the bridges, replace the DIP sockets on the MPU board, remove the 5101 chip, put in a socket, and install NVRAM. The driver board has prior work so that may need to be checked over as well. There was an update to use 0 ohm resistors on the switch matrix which helps. Noticed a difference on Firepower.

Seeing these pictures makes me want to get my Flash together sooner than later.

#556 2 years ago

Robotworkshop

Thanks for the advice. Will look into getting all of that accomplished soon.

#557 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

I got my Flash on Friday. It’s my first pin

Would recommend the solenoid fuse board for added protection.
I run these boards in all my system 3-7.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7

#558 2 years ago

Impzilla Thanks!

#559 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

Hi all!
This is a dual first post and a post joining the Flash Owners Club.
I got my Flash on Friday. It’s my first pin. I had to drive to Nashville (I’m from Knoxville) to pick it up and was scared as hell because I knew I’d have to break it down when i got there.
Several YouTube videos later, I walked in like a champ and took off the head, removed the legs and got it into a cargo van and brought it home.
I got it home and just reversed everything I’d done and got it playing 100%. Ecstatic.
Flash is a fun game! It’s a lot more challenging than I expected.. and the outlanes can be brutal sometimes. I’m also one of the weirdos that actually likes the playfield art.. (Much better than the back glass).
So everything was working great the night I got it home. My wife and I played about 10 games and were having fun.
Until....
The left flipper began to get stuck, and finally just stayed up. Then the ball return stopped working.
Welcome to pinball, right?
Long story short, with the help of the seller and YouTube, I took the left flipper assembly apart sanded down the mushroomed coil stop and shaft, cleaned it up and added Teflon dry lube. It’s great now.
The ball return problem ended up being me breaking a diode on the ball return switch when I was raising the playfield. A little solder and it’s good as new .
Anyway, glad to be here. This is a great forum and hope to learn a lot more about pinball.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice find and congrats on fixing it. Those can be really tricky to find!

#560 2 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Nice find and congrats on fixing it. Those can be really tricky to find!

Thanks! I’m really liking it so far. The bad thing is I’m already pondering my next machine.

I’ll probably never get rid of Flash though

#561 2 years ago

Had another quick question if I could.

I noticed while playing that the Flash bar and thunder sound doesn’t always happen when I knock the row of 3 drop targets down.

The 5 drop target row always initiates the flash and thunder.

I know it’s supposed to cycle through Thunder, Lightning, and Tempest.. but wondered if it was supposed to do that every time all 3 are knocked down or only when timed/hit when lit?

Thanks

#562 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

Thanks! I’m really liking it so far. The bad thing is I’m already pondering my next machine.
I’ll probably never get rid of Flash though

My flash is on the block since i bought a fathom. Very similar gameplay, but the fathom is so much nicer.
Never say never i found.

#563 2 years ago
Quoted from ZeroCool:

Had another quick question if I could.
I noticed while playing that the Flash bar and thunder sound doesn’t always happen when I knock the row of 3 drop targets down.
The 5 drop target row always initiates the flash and thunder.
I know it’s supposed to cycle through Thunder, Lightning, and Tempest.. but wondered if it was supposed to do that every time all 3 are knocked down or only when timed/hit when lit?
Thanks

Yes, the 3-bank should advance through Thunder, Lightning, Tempest, Super Flash every time, rinse & repeat. These early Williams drop targets were not a great design and are known for being a PITA. The contacts have to be cleaned & tensioned just right. Search the forum and you'll find the info on what to do.

#564 2 years ago
Quoted from mwsmith:

Yes, the 3-bank should advance through Thunder, Lightning, Tempest, Super Flash every time, rinse & repeat. These early Williams drop targets were not a great design and are known for being a PITA. The contacts have to be cleaned & tensioned just right. Search the forum and you'll find the info on what to do.

Thanks very much!

#565 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Lots of system 6 games do this, it's a combination of timing on the kick and when the switch times out in the software. You can usually get it down to a minimum by adjustment of the switch - which you've already tried but keep trying, the gap needs to be pretty wide.
Sometimes it's the wireform actuator, they wear and contribute to the issue, they get stuck on the trough.

slochar - I adjusted the switch and the damper blade so far out that the top blade contacts, but doesn't deflect, the bottom blade. It's just barely enough for the game to "see" the ball and kick it out, but it works. Anyway, the double kick is down to once in 5 balls, and seems a bit weaker.

I'm going to try and observe the wireform and see if there's any hangup. Otherwise I'll accept it as an innocuous feature of this game.

Thanks for the help.

#566 2 years ago

Hey guys, I am having an interesting problem that just popped up. When I start up my Flash it looks good, the display alternates between 000000 and high score. Looking at the board, when I hit the diagnostic switch both LED's flash. Running through the tests work just fine, all displays, lights, switches, sounds, coils, etc.

However when I start a game, I get flippers, pop bumpers and background sound but thats it, no scores and no sounds. the ball will kick out, the drop targets will pop back up but scores stay at zero, the lights in front of the drops don't advance, the bonus kickout doesn't work at all, the rollovers don't register. When the ball drains nothing happens, although 30 seconds or so later, it will kick it out but does not register as a new ball.

Any ideas for this?

1 week later
#567 2 years ago

I could really use some help from other Flash owners. This weekend I finally brought home my Flash project. I’ve never played Flash and am really looking forward to getting this game going! When I bought it the game was missing all the boards except for the sound board. Since Flash came with either system 4 or 6 boards I fully rebuild a spare system 6 MPU (new Flash ROMs, NVRAM, etc), rebuild a power supply, and rebuilt a driver board. These boards were all tested in another system 6 machine so I knew I’d start out with a known good set of original boards.

So got the game setup for the first time, started cleaning it up, and have a fresh set of legs, levelers, and bolts on it. Made great progress until started on the wiring. Have most of it sorted out except for a cut wire for the switch matrix and the power wiring. Unfortunately that is a total hack and put the brakes on. The history of this game is completely unknown so I don’t know if the original boards were toasted and caused the wiring issues.

This is where I could use some help! I really need to get good baseline photos of correct flash machines of the lower right of the head of the transformer, bridges, and associated wiring.

Mine is a mess at the moment but I will get it sorted out. I’m just concerned about my transformer and if it is ok. If not I can probably borrow one from a friend until I can find a replace. It looks like the two blue wires that go to one of the bridges is partially melted. Also looks like something may have dripped from the front of the transformer. I checked the bridges and neither are shorted. It’s possible that one did and was replaced before I got the machine. One of the blue wires is taped up so maybe it was still working for a while after.

The two wires going to the transformer are disconnected. Need to confirm where the go.

There are three gray wires going to the transformer. Looks like someone put a random assortment of connectors on them. I guess at least you can’t mix them up but I’d prefer to replace with the correct connector.

I am going to be adding the two 8amp slow blow fuses on the inputs to the bridges and replacing the two blue wires. If I get lucky the transformer will be ok. If not does anyone have a spare transformer for sale?

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#568 2 years ago

Does anyone have a pdf version of a System 6 based Flash? The one on IPDB.org has the system 4 version. Can tell by the 1p4 connector since pin 1 is a key in that for a System 4.

I’d expect a System 6 to use that for interlock. Was there an addendum that covered the update?

#569 2 years ago

The brown and black wires go to a connection in the cab. Since your connection is gone, and the two wires in the cab are both white/red, the brown goes to the pointy end of the connector. Can't help with the other issues. Sounds like you may want to consider fusing the bridge rectifiers. Picture of mine included.

This from Vid:

FIREPROOFING SYSTEM 3-11 POWER SUPPLIES.

Whenever you hear someone boasting about "Williams Quality", you automatically know that they have no idea what they are talking about.

Undersized GI wiring, toasted connectors, thin clearcoat and paper thin ramps are nothing compared to your game actually catching on fire.

Why would it catch on fire? Because Williams neglected to fuse the bridge rectifiers! Not in just one model, but all the models up to 1987 (ironically ending with the game "FIRE!").

A Bridge Rectifier turns AC current into DC. It is basically 4 diodes in a single, easy to mount case.

If we know one thing about diodes, it's that they short out all the time.

If we know one thing about electrical shorts, it's that if you don't have a fuse to break the circuit, you often have a fire.

So it is vitally important that you perform this safety mod on all your Williams pins made from 1977-1987.

read the instructions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

IMG_2728 (resized).jpgIMG_2728 (resized).jpgIMG_2731 (resized).jpegIMG_2731 (resized).jpegIMG_2733 (resized).jpgIMG_2733 (resized).jpg
#570 2 years ago

Thanks for the pictures! It confirms what I needed to know and I have that back together and the game running now. Those fuses are the next thing I am going to do. Will pull the transformer, replace the two blue wires, and add those extra 8A SB fuses. I've done that fuse upgrade on my Blackout and my Pinbot. Also a Hot Tip that was traded away.

Refreshing the sound board will be next.

#571 2 years ago

Got the sound card rebuilt and a lot of other issues sorted out. The three gray wires that go from the transformer have a plug by the head that separates. That had been replaced by a random assortment of individual terminals in the picture a few posts up.

Can someone get a reference photo of that connector as well? I’d like to replace that mess with the correct ones. It is only three wires but it appears the connector shell in the head may be a 9-pin connector shell. A few pictures of that connector set together and in the end disconnected will help a lot. Will be a good reference in case anyone else needs to replace one too.

#572 2 years ago

Have my Flash playing pretty well. Question about the lighting in the backbox. In some videos it looks like the FLASH flashes. Did someone add that or did these normally have 455 bulbs in the GI lighting behind that? A lot of bulbs were missing so I don't know what should be there.

I need to check the drop targets. I have them all registering alright and resetting as they should but they aren't easy to knock down. Looks like they are too close with the rubber ring behind it and bind slightly. Need to look yo see if I can adjust the mech forward a little bit and see if I can adjust the posts holding the rubber back a little (without poking new holes) to get it all to clear and they drop smoothly.

#573 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Got the sound card rebuilt and a lot of other issues sorted out. The three gray wires that go from the transformer have a plug by the head that separates. That had been replaced by a random assortment of individual terminals in the picture a few posts up.
Can someone get a reference photo of that connector as well? I’d like to replace that mess with the correct ones. It is only three wires but it appears the connector shell in the head may be a 9-pin connector shell. A few pictures of that connector set together and in the end disconnected will help a lot. Will be a good reference in case anyone else needs to replace one too.

All the references I can find in the manual point to a 9-pin connector in the backbox for the sound board power. Only 3 pins are used. Still would help to get a reference picture.

#574 2 years ago

Do you ever see the flash font out in the world?... literally just noticed this walking by the album and thought .. wait, I know that font.

20210513_181808 (resized).jpg20210513_181808 (resized).jpg
#575 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Got the sound card rebuilt and a lot of other issues sorted out. The three gray wires that go from the transformer have a plug by the head that separates. That had been replaced by a random assortment of individual terminals in the picture a few posts up.
Can someone get a reference photo of that connector as well? I’d like to replace that mess with the correct ones. It is only three wires but it appears the connector shell in the head may be a 9-pin connector shell. A few pictures of that connector set together and in the end disconnected will help a lot. Will be a good reference in case anyone else needs to replace one too.

Here are 3 pics of the connector you're asking about. I didn't want to pull mine apart, so hopefully this will give you enough clues.IMG_1911 (resized).JPGIMG_1911 (resized).JPGIMG_1912 (resized).JPGIMG_1912 (resized).JPGIMG_1913 (resized).JPGIMG_1913 (resized).JPG
As for your drop targets, I don't know of any adjustment fore-and-aft for the unit; however, it's easy to get the horseshoe contacts too tight on the printed circuit boards, and that will make the targets not want to drop.
Finally the word "Flash" doesn't flash as it comes from the factory. The game you watched has been modified a bit.

#576 2 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Here are 3 pics of the connector you're asking about. I didn't want to pull mine apart, so hopefully this will give you enough clues.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
As for your drop targets, I don't know of any adjustment fore-and-aft for the unit; however, it's easy to get the horseshoe contacts too tight on the printed circuit boards, and that will make the targets not want to drop.
Finally the word "Flash" doesn't flash as it comes from the factory. The game you watched has been modified a bit.

These pictures are perfect and no need to pull them apart. I can tell which is which from the picture and it confirms that it ia a 9-pin shell. With this I can fix it properly and put the correct connectors back on. Thank You!

Also thanks for confirming if Flash blinked or not. May actually be worth putting some of the flashing bulbs behind it.

#577 2 years ago

I put blinking bulbs wherever there is lightning on the backglass. It entertains me, at least....

#578 2 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

I put blinking bulbs wherever there is lightning on the backglass. It entertains me, at least...

I believe Flash did come out of the factory with blinking bulbs behind the lightning (only)
I have done that too & like it with them.

#579 2 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Here are 3 pics of the connector you're asking about. I didn't want to pull mine apart, so hopefully this will give you enough clues.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
As for your drop targets, I don't know of any adjustment fore-and-aft for the unit; however, it's easy to get the horseshoe contacts too tight on the printed circuit boards, and that will make the targets not want to drop.
Finally the word "Flash" doesn't flash as it comes from the factory. The game you watched has been modified a bit.

Just wanted to add that it looks like this 9-pin connector is the smaller size that uses the .062" pins.

#580 2 years ago

Hi Everyone. I recently bought a working Flash a couple months ago. in the last month it started slowly degrading - not all the LEDs in the scores would light up - and continued getting worse until it all electric stopped and it won't play the other day. The lights on the playfield still come on, but only the artwork lights come on in the header, no LEDs. Now it won't play at all.

I haven't tried to fix a pinball machine before, but it sounds like a power supply issue?

I was looking for any advice on how to get started fixing it..

Thanks for any advice!

#581 2 years ago
Quoted from crypt0c00l:

Hi Everyone. I recently bought a working Flash a couple months ago. in the last month it started slowly degrading - not all the LEDs in the scores would light up - and continued getting worse until it all electric stopped and it won't play the other day.
I haven't tried to fix a pinball machine before, but it sounds like a power supply issue?
I was looking for any advice on how to get started fixing it..
Thanks for any advice!

Can you post pictures of the boards in the backbox? Does it still have batteries? If so are they leaking? Has the 40-pin connector been replaced? Has the Power board been serviced?

It is common that these boards get cracked solder connections at the large .156" header connectors on the boards. That, the 40-pin interconnect if original should be replaced. Verify voltages are good, etc. There is a list of things that should be done to the boards but once gone through they are reliable and solid boards.

#582 2 years ago

In the home stretch on this game. During lunch I was able to fix the "Flash" lamps. It was an easy one. Just an open 1 ohm resistor.

I'm not getting background sounds even when I have the settings enabled for them. Also from some of the YouTube videos it appears I may be missing a sound or two so I expect that I have a bad connection on one of the sound select lines. I swapped sound cards since I had a spare and it acted the same. Also have another driver I can try in case there is a TIP out or other predriver. Once I have it all working I'll use it to verify and fix my spares so those will be ready if needed.

#583 2 years ago

Are you using the correct background sound settings? They changed between yellow and green roms, look at the addendum on ipdb for info on it.

#584 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I'm not getting background sounds even when I have the settings enabled for them. Also from some of the YouTube videos it appears I may be missing a sound or two so I expect that I have a bad connection on one of the sound select lines. I swapped sound cards since I had a spare and it acted the same. Also have another driver I can try in case there is a TIP out or other predriver. Once I have it all working I'll use it to verify and fix my spares so those will be ready if needed.

Here's my repair notes from when I had background sound missing:
Green ROM background sound = 31
00= OFF
01= ON

Yellow ROM background sound = 33
00 = Off
01 = ON

This game had Green ROM, set to 01 on adjustment 31, and still no sound.

Q13 on the driver board generates the background sound. Following this signal back led to a bad chip (PIA IV). Once I replaced this chip, the sound was back to working.

#585 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Are you using the correct background sound settings? They changed between yellow and green roms, look at the addendum on ipdb for info on it.

That was it! I am running on a System 6 boardset and had setting 33 set to 01 for the system 4 board. Used setting 31 and all good now! Hadn't seen that addendum.

I didn't think the problem was going to be on the driver board since I had already gone through that board and ran it in my Firepower when I get getting that machine running.

Looks like everything is actually working ok now. Just need to do some adjustments, finish cleaning/wax, and add the extra fuses for the bridges.

#586 2 years ago

I need to take a close look at the spinner on this game and how I tweaked the adjustment. Everything must have fallen into place because the spinner on this game works better than any game I've every owned or played. Need to replicate that on FirePower and Blackout.

Some of the center drops don't go down smoothly so a few teaks left to do but overall it plays really well. I had three blinkers and put that behind the lighting for the backglass and the rest of the GI behind the glass also has LED's now..

1 week later
#587 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I need to check the drop targets. I have them all registering alright and resetting as they should but they aren't easy to knock down. Looks like they are too close with the rubber ring behind it and bind slightly. Need to look yo see if I can adjust the mech forward a little bit and see if I can adjust the posts holding the rubber back a little (without poking new holes) to get it all to clear and they drop smoothly.

You'll be forever adjusting and cleaning those drop target sliders. Too tight and they don't drop - too loose and they don't register. That's why I developed these replacement sensors. They don't use sliders. Nothing to adjust or get dirty.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-for-those-williams-horseshoe-sliders#post-6271576

Bob

#588 2 years ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

You'll be forever adjusting and cleaning those drop target sliders. Too tight and they don't drop - too loose and they don't register. That's why I developed these replacement sensors. They don't use sliders. Nothing to adjust or get dirty.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-for-those-williams-horseshoe-sliders#post-6271576
Bob

It wasn’t an issue with the horseshoe contacts. Well initially it was since a couple were missing contacts. Fixed those and cleaned everything.

The problem was with the three center drop targets. They were too far back and would hit the rubber ring before releasing. Was able to clear that up and they all work well now.

#589 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

It wasn’t an issue with the horseshoe contacts. Well initially it was since a couple were missing contacts. Fixed those and cleaned everything.
The problem was with the three center drop targets. They were too far back and would hit the rubber ring before releasing. Was able to clear that up and they all work well now.

Nice going! Sometimes effective troubleshooting involves ignoring the advice from all of us ringsiders and doing what the machine actually wants.

1 month later
#590 2 years ago

Repro Flash playfields are now available at CPR:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/flash-3/

#591 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Repro Flash playfields are now available at CPR:

That is nice, but I'll wait.
While looking at the new playfield I saw they have a Flash topper ? Never seen one.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/flash-2/

Not sure why a pinball is in the middle of the topper image - maybe the "Flash" name or some other artwork from the game..

#592 2 years ago

getting one ...
I have waited 10 years
it better be good

#593 2 years ago

Mine arrived today and it is quite beautiful

Clearcoat appears perfect, and they even appear to have finally started to put something into the star rollovers before clearing since unlike in some past playfield releases there does not appear to be clear within the star, so no laborious work to carefully cut out the excess.

Of course it may be hard to justify financially replacing you playfield given the overall value of a Flash, but I have fond memories of playing one in the arcades when they came out and have a soft-spot for mine. Not sure it even makes sense for me to replace, given that my original is in pretty good shape, but I just could not resist.

The only non-standard thing I can see is that the 2X/3X inserts are now opaque rather than clear, but unless you are a purist I'm not sure it matters.

Flash CPR playfield (resized).jpgFlash CPR playfield (resized).jpg
#594 2 years ago

Thanks for the post ..
Tracking is saying Friday delivery
I can’t wait to get it

#595 2 years ago
Quoted from algum123:

Of course it may be hard to justify financially replacing you playfield given the overall value of a Flash, but I have fond memories of playing one in the arcades when they came out and have a soft-spot for mine.

A lot of people are fond of Flash in Australia, you will have to pay at least double to what you would pay in the States for one in Australia - I think a few will make their way here.

1 week later
#596 2 years ago

New vs Old worn out one .lol

It is just a shame they missed some blue artwork on the right hand side above the 1000 W/Lit
Hopefully a easy fix ..
Flash 4 d (resized).pngFlash 4 d (resized).png

#597 2 years ago

Woops, someone missed a bit of colouring in there.

#598 2 years ago

Does anyone know off hand what type/value of diode is needed here?

I broke one of the leads with my palm lifting the table, and it had been working for a while with a solder job, but finally gave up the ghost.

Thanks!

126CEC58-BF05-4374-8742-9C0EF79D032D (resized).jpeg126CEC58-BF05-4374-8742-9C0EF79D032D (resized).jpeg
#599 2 years ago

1n4004 but 1n4001-1n4007 will work

#600 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

1n4004 but 1n4001-1n4007 will work

Thanks a lot!

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Machine - For Sale
Lehigh Valley, PA
From: $ 11.00
Playfields
Troxel Repair
Playfields
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
Other
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 9.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
1,300
Machine - For Sale
Allentown, PA
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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