Flash. Boots to audit mode. Code 4040 instead of game #1486.

(Topic ID: 235536)

Flash. Boots to audit mode. Code 4040 instead of game #1486.


By Onevox

44 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 31 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by slochar
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 10 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    Screen Shot 2019-03-19 at 10.54.13 AM (resized).png
    IMG_3253 (resized).jpg
    IMG_3252 (resized).jpg
    Driver (resized).jpg
    MOSFETs (resized).jpg
    MPU (resized).jpg
    RAM Right (resized).JPG
    ROM Left (resized).jpg
    ROM Right (resized).JPG
    HSsoundROM (resized).JPG

    #1 44 days ago

    I lost all MPU controlled playfield lights on my Flash and was reseating connections (fuse OK, correct voltages on power board). Decided to reseat 40 pin connector, then once the boards were separated I decided I should finally replace the 40 pin female. When I pulled the driver board, I placed it on the glass of another pin and before I knew it, it slid onto the floor. So I had to replace two broken TIP42 transistors. So I did. And I put it all together with new 40 pin females. (Note: I replaced the IC3 on the sound board recently after losing sound, which brought back my sound.)

    1. My playfield lights are back, but not consistently.
    2. When they go out, my scoring displays go out. I disconnected/reconnected everything, they all came back.
    3. My sound test button gives me one sound over and over.
    4. When the PF lights and scoring displays are working, the only sound I get is the Flash explosion SFX but ONLY when i hit the flipper buttons. Same for EM sound mode, ding! on flipper hit.
    5. When the PF lights and scoring displays are working, the two red MPU LEDs flash once and go out. When the PF lights/scoring are out, the lights stay on.
    6. When I ran the solenoid test, it tested about 3 solenoids ... then some clicking in the cab and the PF lights went out, and scoring displays went out.

    So, would a solenoid short possibly cause this strange stuff? Should I stay focused on connections, or possible additional damage to the driver board? Tests I should do?

    #2 44 days ago

    Finish replacing the 40 pin interconnect, then we'll go from there.

    #3 44 days ago

    I agree. Have to replace both the male and female on the 40 pin. I learned very early on from the Clay Harrel repair guides....

    "if 95% of all intermittent problems are caused by connectors in general, then 95% of connector problems lie in the 40 pin inter-board connector which joins the driver and CPU boards together."

    I replaced every 40 pin connector in every Williams System 3-7 I have owned.

    #4 44 days ago

    Also check if there are SCANBE brand IC sockets on MPU board, replace if found.

    #5 44 days ago

    Will do. Thanks.

    1 week later
    #6 37 days ago

    Update: Waiting on GPE order for various parts, including a new 40 pin male AND re-replace the female interconnect. (I bent some of the female contacts when I seated it.) I don't have Scanbe on the power board (RN), but did find one under my sound board ROM. Planning to replace all.

    Found a loose,toasty blue wire on the lamp bridge rectifier. Fixed that. And added the BR fuses per Vid. That seemed to stabilize a lot of issues.

    Wondered if I had a bad diode on the right flipper since I was getting sound when I pressed the right flipper button. When I lifted the PF, the ground on the right coil came off and I started to study the wiring on the flipper coils and wondered something. There is a thick, like 12 gauge, red wire that runs between the power lugs of the lower coils, even though there are blue wires going to the power lugs from the PF fuse. I can't find that wire on any illustration on flipper coil wiring. Is it some "get it running" hack, or does it have a purpose?

    Still no normal game sound, even though sound board test button works. Hoping Scanbe is the culprit.

    #7 37 days ago

    I went ahead and disconnected the odd red jumper between flippers and it didn’t seem to affect flipper action. Now I’m left to wonder why it was added.

    A little Vid Bulletproofing up next, with some flipper rebuilds.

    #8 31 days ago

    I just got my Flash running - had a bad IC (7410) on the MPU that was keeping me from booting. Now I noticed that the sound board test button does what yours does - just does one tone. I can run the diagnostics and get the different sound effects, but how did you get your test button to work??
    It's 40 degrees in the garage so my troubleshooting might have to wait until it warms up a bit here!

    #9 31 days ago

    The test button does what it should, just cycle through a single looping sound. I thought I remembered it cycling through all sounds but that was running the test in the diagnostics (not working for me). I’m also not getting sounds when I test grounding the pins at the upper left header pins like in this video.

    #10 27 days ago

    I replaced the 40 pin, both sides. Replaced the RN sockets on the MPU including the PROM sockets.

    Now it's booting to audit mode, (no PF lights, no diagnostics) but instead of getting 1486 2 game code in player 1, I'm getting 4040. It seems to cycle through a different set of settings as I push the coin door button, but they don't match up to the 1486 settings.

    I put in new AA batteries.

    So, from what I can tell from my reading:
    1. Maybe my 5101 RAM went bad? I would probably replace with NVRAM.
    2. Maybe I screwed up the ROM chips?

    Any other ideas?

    I hope I didn't screw up the 40 pin or socket installations. I tested continuity on all and everything thing seems to be OK. While extracting a PROM socket, I lifted a trace and had to use jumpers on the back of the PCB.

    Aside, would Leon's test ROM help? Still available somewhere?

    Big thanks for help.

    #11 25 days ago

    Went ahead and ordered the 5101 and the 6810 replacements.

    #12 24 days ago

    Leon's test rom is on pinwiki. Sounds like you're missing or have a signal tied hi/lo going to your displays. If it's booting to audit mode your 40 pin is ok.

    #13 24 days ago

    you can try pincoders roms (here on this forum https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms and the ROMs are at http://pincoder.reversion.ca/). I used them to get my Flash mostly working. At least it will give you a warm fuzzy that your ram and nvram are working. I also used the lamp ROM to test out all the lamps. You have to blow a 2716 for each test, but it helps to just test one part at a time...

    #14 20 days ago
    Quoted from uofmer:

    you can try pincoders roms (here on this forum https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms and the ROMs are at http://pincoder.reversion.ca/). I used them to get my Flash mostly working. At least it will give you a warm fuzzy that your ram and nvram are working. I also used the lamp ROM to test out all the lamps. You have to blow a 2716 for each test, but it helps to just test one part at a time...

    Thanks for the mention uofmer , just to add a note about the lamps test: I've been using the lamps test ROM to diagnose the lamps on my black knight (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/differences-in-hardware-wiring-black-knight-v3-vs-v4#post-4866292). To summarize that, it turns out PIA3 was weak. It would run the lights fine for about 10 seconds after power up and then all but one column of lights would fade out. I replaced IC12, IC13, IC14, and IC19 before replacing IC10 (PIA3), but in the end it was IC10 that was the problem. I do think the other ICs were also part of the problem and may have been the cause of IC10s ultimate demise as they also showed some issues when on the scope.

    Anyway, the thing that made it difficult to diagnose was that my lamps test ROM showed all the lamps to work just fine for as long as I desired but when I switched back to the Williams ROM, the problem was still there.

    If you think this could be the problem you're having onevox I would suggest trying out my lamps test ROM (as well as all of the ROMs leading up to it) and see if the lights work there. If the lamps work fine there, then you may have a weak PIA3 chip. If that's the case I recommend changing the above ICs, including IC10.

    I'm working on adjusting the lamps ROM to test for a weak PIA but I haven't figured out a way to do it yet. At least I have a weak chip to try it out on

    Hope this helps

    EDIT: Also, be sure to run the clear-cmos ROM (with coin door open) as it will clear out the 5101 chip and force it to re-initialize it when you then boot the Williams ROM. Make sure the coin door is open the whole time. After you've booted into audit mode you can close the door and power cycle into game mode if you like. This may help with some of the other problems you're experiencing.

    1 week later
    #15 10 days ago

    I added new sockets for the 6810 RAM and the 5101 chip. Also replaced those chips. Still getting the odd 4040 code in Player 1, still booting to audit mode.

    When I power on, the LEDs flash once and go out. When I push the self test, the lower LED stays on.

    I'm wondering if my ROMs were fried somehow. I just noticed that in the process I lost by "green flipper" labels on my ROM. Can't find them anywhere...

    Is it rare for ROMs to go bad? Does the order on the PCB matter? I wonder if I screwed up the order when putting in the new sockets.

    pincoder I don't have a ROM burner so I'd have to buy test ROMs, but wonder if it would just be easier to get new ROMs.

    #16 10 days ago
    Quoted from Onevox:

    I added new sockets for the 6810 RAM and the 5101 chip. Also replaced those chips. Still getting the odd 4040 code in Player 1, still booting to audit mode.
    When I power on, the LEDs flash once and go out. When I push the self test, the lower LED stays on.
    I'm wondering if my ROMs were fried somehow. I just noticed that in the process I lost by "green flipper" labels on my ROM. Can't find them anywhere...
    Is it rare for ROMs to go bad? Does the order on the PCB matter? I wonder if I screwed up the order when putting in the new sockets.
    pincoder I don't have a ROM burner so I'd have to buy test ROMs, but wonder if it would just be easier to get new ROMs.

    Its too bad you don't have a programmer handy. It could save you swapping out good chips for no reason.

    The ROM order does matter. ROMs don't usually go bad, but that doesn't mean they don't. With a burner you could also compare the contents with a known good image to see if they still work.

    I'm not certain what the 4040 code is, but if you're booting to audit mode then you have the flipper roms in the right order. Are you certain the game rom(s) are in the right sockets?

    Are you able to manoever the audit mode with the coin door buttons?

    #17 8 days ago

    Here’s a video of what I’m getting as I go through settings. Not normal.

    #18 8 days ago

    Just to clarify, this is a game that you've had for some time and have played successfully so this is a new issue with a previously known working game? There's no possibility that you have the wrong game rom installed?

    #19 8 days ago

    I've had it for two years and it was fine, then it started to get flaky. Fine one start. No PF lights the next. No sound the next. So I replaced the 40 pin interconnect on both boards. Then did some Vid bulletproofing: Replaced the RN sockets with machine pinned ones. Then replaced the TIP42 lamp matrix transistors with IRF9Z34N MOSFETs and 0 ohm resistors.

    I should say that when I did the 40 pin female i lifted a trace but but jumpered it and tested the connection continuity and it seemed to be OK.

    I found a pic I did before the work, and it looks like I have the right chips in the right locations. I really should learn to label things better.

    #20 8 days ago

    Post a pic of your MPU w/Roms in the sockets please? I've seen folks have troubles like this and there was a single ROM leg not in the socket, or chip in backwards etc. Shouldn't boot at all if backwards, but you never know. Verify all that.

    Here's a pic from a High Speed that worked for the most part but sounds were crazy and mixed up. See U22.

    HSsoundROM (resized).JPG
    #21 7 days ago

    Thank you for helping. I'm posting ROM pics and other work done.

    ROM Right (resized).JPGROM Left (resized).jpgRAM Right (resized).JPG
    #22 7 days ago

    More pics for reference of other work done.

    MPU (resized).jpgDriver (resized).jpgMOSFETs (resized).jpgIMG_3252 (resized).jpgIMG_3253 (resized).jpg
    #23 7 days ago

    Get some new roms burned, the 3 chip version and eliminate the old ones. All signs are pointing to them going bad, and going bad intermittently.

    #24 5 days ago

    Recommendations on ROM sources? K's Arcade?

    #25 4 days ago

    Anyone that burns them is fine they're all burning the same code.

    If you have more than a couple machines it's worth getting your own - the minipro TL866CS is cheap (make sure you get that version, they recently "updated" it to a different model which does not have the breadth of chip support for the older games).

    #26 4 days ago

    What's a good source for 2716/2816 chips? I bought a bunch years ago when a local store was clearing them out, but other than ebay, I don't know where to source them, and the alternative now seems to be a bigger, newer chip with an adapter board..

    #27 4 days ago

    I'm wondering. My pics show I have three PROM chips and two ROM chips. If I replace, am I eliminating the ROMs at IC 17 and 20? Or keep those and just replace the PROM chips at IC21, 22, 26?

    Screen Shot 2019-03-19 at 10.54.13 AM (resized).png
    #28 4 days ago

    You'll use the game rom in IC14, Flipper 2 in IC17 and Flipper 1 in IC20. No other chips or sockets are used.

    #29 4 days ago
    Quoted from pincoder:

    What's a good source for 2716/2816 chips? I bought a bunch years ago when a local store was clearing them out, but other than ebay, I don't know where to source them, and the alternative now seems to be a bigger, newer chip with an adapter board..

    Just get 2732's and double up the image written to them. No adapter board needed.

    #30 3 days ago

    Interesting, and where do you get them? digikey and mouser don't appear to have them in through-hole configuration..

    #31 3 days ago

    Mostly ebay - also eprompromman for used ones. If you're doing it on a hobbyist level anyway either is fine but for something in production probably less so. I'm recycling the same 50-100 I have of each type instead of burning and sending it off to somewhere for instance.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 254.99
    $ 107.95
    Lighting - Other
    Hookedonpinball.com
    $ 18.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 18.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Meph's Mods
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 24.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Parts and Equip
    $ 269.00
    $ 8,500.00
    Pinball Machine
    PinballSTAR Amusements
    $ 15.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Metal-Mods
    $ 5.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Doc's Pinball Shop
    $ 15.00
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    From: $ 19.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 129.95
    Lighting - Interactive
    Hookedonpinball.com
    $ 5,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Operation Pinball
    $ 25.00
    Apparel - Unisex
    Project Pinball Charity
    $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    € 59.80
    Lighting - Backbox
    Freddys Pinball Paradise
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 239.99
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Tilttopper
    $ 15.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    ModFather Pinball Mods

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside