(Topic ID: 207669)

Flash Keeps Resetting

By ChicagoPinReplay

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by ChicagoPinReplay
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

I have an odd issue going on with my Flash Machine... either just sitting powered on or in the middle of a game it will randomly start playing a very rapid series of high pitches noises for about 10 seconds from the speaker and then half the lights on the playfield go out and the game is dead. After this happens the display shows as if the settings mode has been entered using the buttons on the coin door. None of the buttons work and the game just displays 1486 1 in the first player display. Then even more odd is half of my settings like free play mode option 18 etc... restore to default as if I pulled the batteries. The batteries were replaced last week so they are brand new. I cant find anywhere online of someone having a similar issue. The sounds coming out of the speaker when this happens is nothing like I have ever heard... powering the game off allows the game to function as normal again. That is until it freaks out. Any ideas?

#2 4 years ago

Sounds like your power supply is low or the 40 pin connector is freaking out. Did you meter the power supply to check voltage? Has the 40 pin been replaced?

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Sounds like your power supply is low or the 40 pin connector is freaking out. Did you meter the power supply to check voltage? Has the 40 pin been replaced?

I apologize for my ignorance but I am very new to this so still learning. I do not know how to check the power supply but I do own a multimeter. Not sure about the 40 pin connector either unfortunately.

#4 4 years ago

So last night I pulled the batteries I installed last week and put new ones in on the off chance one was bad. The previous owner relocated the batteries just FYI. I was able to play about 20 games back to back no problems. Then just today I turned the game on and while in attract mode just minutes after being turned on it made that that 10 second series of high pitched noises and died again. This time all of the displays went out and half of the lights on the playfield. I tried to power cycle the game but this time even turning it on and off again did not fix the issue. The displays remained out and now the game would not go into attract mode. I checked the boards again and nothing appears burned our out of place. All of the pins and connectors look good too. I pulled every connector in the backbox and inspected/re-seated them. After that when I turned the game on it was fine again. Any ideas? I am afraid one of my boards is going out.

#5 4 years ago

The 2 main boards have a big 40 pin connector that connects them both together. Williams of that era are notorious for that connector to loose connection (even a split second) and cause all sorts of weird issues. You might try to CAREFULLY separate the boards and put back together and see what happens. If it changes anything it is not "fixed" it is just telling you that you need to replace that connection. You should check vids Williams guide and it may help you. Start from the beginning but pay close attention to post #16. If you are unsure about your soldering skills several people here can bulletproof your boards for a reasonable price and you should be good for years.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

The lights going out seems more like a power issue than the 40 pin though? The power supply part starts on post #78. Check starting post #93 also.

#6 4 years ago

Time to re-cap the power supply and I would change out the 40 pin connector no matter what because odds are it's original and losing tension on the pins.
-Mike

#7 4 years ago

Thanks Travish and Grizlyrig! I will look into your recommendations and see if it stabilizes things. It is much appreciated!

#8 4 years ago

Mime did this a while back.. definitely reseat the 40...

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Mime did this a while back.. definitely reseat the 40...

Ok thanks!!

3 weeks later
#10 4 years ago

Hows she workin ?

1 week later
#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Hows she workin ?

Not well unfortunately. I recapped all of the boards and replaced the male and female sides of the 40 pin connector. The game ran like a champ for a few weeks so I thought the issue was finally solved. Had some people over playing last night for a few hours on back to back 4 player games and the game just locked up in the middle of playing. I had playfield/backbox lights and flippers but the displays went dark and no switches registered. I turned the game off and on and it went straight into setup mode. Going through the setup things appeared odd.... the first 12 or so values (which from my understanding you can't change) now had random 6 digit numbers displaying as i cycled through the setup. Even more odd was that option 8 was totally blank displaying no value whatsoever. Free play has been set back to 20, dynamic background sound was now set to off again and the difficulty was now at 12 VS the standard setting of 11 to start each game with the 5k light lit. I pulled the batteries and power and rebooted the game. This time the setup looked normal again with the beginning vales set to 0, current high score to date 550,000, score thresholds at 270,000, 370,000 etc. instead of the random assortment of numbers and blank displays I got rebooting the game after the crash. So I went and set my game to freeplay, set option 31 to "01" for sound and made sure that option 35 was at 11. I played a few games and then noticed that after awhile the 5,000 lamp was not lit between balls/after starting a new game. I went into the setup and sure enough option 35 was now set to 12. I am not sure how useful running the CPU Board Self Test is but the 2 LEDs blink twice and then go out as they should. I am not really sure what is going on at this point. I can't get the game to fail reliably it just happens at random. The only thing I can think of is during long periods of operation?

#12 4 years ago

Replacing the 40 pin connector stops short of even "just the absolute bare essentials" of what these boards need to be reliable. All of the header connectors on all the boards need to at minimum be re-soldered, because most of them will have developed cracked joints over the years. Some may need replacing.

There are other very common problems on these boards such as bad original sockets (if it says SCANBE it's trash) and other problems.

Strongly suggest you go back to the guide you were linked to earlier and spend some time absorbing it.

These games can be made reliable, but it does take some understanding of why they fail, and some work put towards eliminating those failure points.

Richard

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Replacing the 40 pin connector stops short of even "just the absolute bare essentials" of what these boards need to be reliable. All of the header connectors on all the boards need to at minimum be re-soldered, because most of them will have developed cracked joints over the years. Some may need replacing.
There are other very common problems on these boards such as bad original sockets (if it says SCANBE it's trash) and other problems.
Strongly suggest you go back to the guide you were linked to earlier and spend some time absorbing it.
These games can be made reliable, but it does take some understanding of why they fail, and some work put towards eliminating those failure points.
Richard

I forgot to mention I did re-flow all of the pins on the boards when I was replacing the capacitors and the 40 pin. I will go back to the bullet proofing guide and read it front to back. I appreciate the recommendation.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from ChicagoPinReplay:

Not well unfortunately. I recapped all of the boards and replaced the male and female sides of the 40 pin connector. The game ran like a champ for a few weeks so I thought the issue was finally solved. Had some people over playing last night for a few hours on back to back 4 player games and the game just locked up in the middle of playing. I had playfield/backbox lights and flippers but the displays went dark and no switches registered. I turned the game off and on and it went straight into setup mode. Going through the setup things appeared odd.... the first 12 or so values (which from my understanding you can't change) now had random 6 digit numbers displaying as i cycled through the setup. Even more odd was that option 8 was totally blank displaying no value whatsoever. Free play has been set back to 20, dynamic background sound was now set to off again and the difficulty was now at 12 VS the standard setting of 11 to start each game with the 5k light lit. I pulled the batteries and power and rebooted the game. This time the setup looked normal again with the beginning vales set to 0, current high score to date 550,000, score thresholds at 270,000, 370,000 etc. instead of the random assortment of numbers and blank displays I got rebooting the game after the crash. So I went and set my game to freeplay, set option 31 to "01" for sound and made sure that option 35 was at 11. I played a few games and then noticed that after awhile the 5,000 lamp was not lit between balls/after starting a new game. I went into the setup and sure enough option 35 was now set to 12. I am not sure how useful running the CPU Board Self Test is but the 2 LEDs blink twice and then go out as they should. I am not really sure what is going on at this point. I can't get the game to fail reliably it just happens at random. The only thing I can think of is during long periods of operation?

Have you checked your batteries and the connection to the game ? Usualy ehen the batteries die or are not making good contact this happens.. it did on my flash...

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Have you checked your batteries and the connection to the game ? Usualy ehen the batteries die or are not making good contact this happens.. it did on my flash...

Yes they are brand new batteries; I even changed them again when the game started to act up. The previous owner soldered in a remote holder and everything looks to be in order with his work.

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