(Topic ID: 122746)

Flash Gordon switch matrix

By Skins

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Skins
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

So during my restore I ran into a gremlin. I don't see a traditional switch matrix in the manual. Maybe I'm confused because im not super familiar with fg but I don't remember it acting this way before the restore. The center orb kicker keeps activating first down then up randomly and specifically when the lower left pop switch is activated. Hoping to try to narrow it down with a switch matrix. Is there one out there?

#2 9 years ago

It is in the manual near the back.
Download it from here:
http://ipdb.org/search.pl?any=flash+gordon&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

A part of the switch such as the diode might be touching a metal part with vibration of the pop or might need to adjust the orb switch.

#3 9 years ago

Thanks. I have that. I was hope for the traditional matrix like newer dmd' shave. I'm terrible at reading schematics. I guess I'll take the pop switch out of the loop and see if that stops the backfeed to the orb kicker.

#4 9 years ago

Obviously check the switch gap, but also take a good look at the wiring. The capacitors and diodes make it implicit that you wire the switches specifically. I had an issue with FG where I replaced all of the rollover caps and afterwards had a problem I couldn't figure out for the life of me. A second set of [fresh] eyes caught that I had wired ones of the rollovers up backward.

#6 9 years ago

Ok think I have that solved but developed another gremlin. The top pop bumper fires with any vibration even with the switch not closing. I isolated the switch with a piece of cardboard between the contacts to be sure. I'm not talking about back feed from another switch or soilinoid. Rather it will fire by tapping the playfield even with switch manually fixed open. I'm stumped on how it can fire with no input other than slight vibration.

Also, the lower right pop is gaped correctly, I can see it close by barely moving the skirt but in game mode it take a heavy persistent moving of the skirt to register. It has a new disc cap. In switch test it registers.

Another question, should all switches be disc capped? Even drop target switches?

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Another question, should all switches be disc capped?

Only "momentary contact" switches. Your drop targets are making one very long contact, so no caps needed.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Ok think I have that solved but developed another gremlin. The top pop bumper fires with any vibration even with the switch not closing. I isolated the switch with a piece of cardboard between the contacts to be sure. I'm not talking about back feed from another switch or soilinoid. Rather it will fire by tapping the playfield even with switch manually fixed open. I'm stumped on how it can fire with no input other than slight vibration.

Try snipping one leg of the disc capacitor on the switch.

If that fixes it, replace the cap - don't just leave it snipped.

Look between the switch leaves for a solder flake or some other weirdness.

#9 9 years ago

So I clip the disc cap, started machine gunning. Put new disc cap on, pop would fire with vibration like before. Removed one side of the wire leads to the switch and it still fires with vibration. The coil is getting very warm with just a few seconds of machine gunning from vibration. I'm stumped.

#10 9 years ago

Bad diode ?

Broken coil winding mixed with stuck on transistor?

#11 9 years ago

The coil doesn't have a diode. Switch diode out of the loop with switch removed. Alteck solenoid board, doesn't show an error. I'm perplexed for sure.

#12 9 years ago

My mistake. Coil has diode. Swapped in brand new coil, same results but now bottom left pop fires on vibration too. I'm getting farther away from a solution. Grrr.

#13 9 years ago

Maybe the issue. Switch 5 is switch behind drops. Gapped properly... Checked wires. Can't see anything pinching. Nothing touching. Move rotisserie, issue goes away. Keep in mind I unsoldered the switch so there is no backfeed giving that pop input.

#14 9 years ago

Pinched wire?

#15 9 years ago

Possibly but that was my first thought so I moved the harness in random directions as well as in the direction it moves when the rotisserie spins...nothing. When I get home this afternoon. I'm taking both drop target rebound switches (two of them but both register #5 in the switch test) completely out of the loop by removing them from the harness and see what happens.

#16 9 years ago

So a follow up. I sheepishly have to admit it was something as simple as an out lane roll over switch that wasn't screwed down. When the playfield was rotated, it was enough to ground to the adjacent inlane switch.dont know how that switch got over looked.

On to fine tuning so I can get this sob in the cabinet.

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