(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago

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  • 1,024 posts
  • 172 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by solderboy
  • Topic is favorited by 93 Pinsiders


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#931 59 days ago

Got my Flash on the weekend. Has a few gremlins i need to address but its a nice future restore project.

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#933 58 days ago

2 interesting things happening here. Can you spot them?

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#935 58 days ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

No J1 connector and soldered directly to the bridge rectifier and the second rectifier burnt a hole thru the power module so a giant gallop of solder is patching the hole with a jumper to ground?

J1 is was not on yet as I was still setting it up. As you noticed one rectifier is remote wired and located on the bottom of the cabinet. That gob of solder must be to fix it like you said. I have never come across that yet. I’m not sure why there is a black wire about 2 inches long coming out from it.

#936 58 days ago

Is there a better replacement board to get of the few that are offered ?

#938 58 days ago

Maybe I’m overlooking it but I don’t see a replacement power board from weebly for the 2518-54

1 week later
#948 51 days ago

Last night was a good night! Put my undivided attention into flash and resolved all the light issues but the strobe. Many lights were not working at all so went thru all the steps of checking / testing everything tip to tail. Most were transistor issues and some were wiring issues. The wiring issue ones were the most interesting. The 2 lights to the back of the playfield behind mings face were shorting out on a abundance of old unused staples that were in that general area. It had me scratching my head for a while till I actually noticed how many staples were there. Pulled out about 10 put and then re-stapled the wires back and that issue was solved.

The other issue I found was that someone installed a wire from the 2 lower pop thumpers (that remain on all the time) and ran a wire to the top thumper and just soldered it to the other wire feed. I think what happened is the transistor blew for the top as its not a GI light one and they wanted it to illuminate some how so this was the solution. Now with the extra wire removed and that transistor replaced it working as it should. That one top thumper has eaten 3 led bulbs and I was wondering what was going on a week ago.

I already replaced the transistor for the strobe but its still not firing. I will try to hunt this gremlin down tonight.

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#950 49 days ago

Ok got my logic test in hand. Does it matter where I get power for it? What should I actually use for power ?

#951 49 days ago

TP1 on the SD board is noted as ground so thats an easy one but do i use 5v at TP2?

#952 49 days ago

lol sorry wait wrong schematic. TP8 is ground. TP1 is 5v, TP2 185v TP3,6,7 5v bus line, TP4 230V, TP5 11.9v, TP6

#953 49 days ago

ok so i think the ca3081 checks out fine. Im getting an output from it as the machine cycles thru the solenoid tests. Maybe the issue now is down the line with the 74l154 decoder

#960 48 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

What issue are you trying to diagnose? Your posts on the previous page don't mention solenoid issues.

LOL im sorry this issue was with my Flight 2000 and not my flash. I was posting in the wrong topic. My bad.

#961 48 days ago

Ok this time I’m talking about Flash Gordon lol. I’m trying to get my strobe working. When testing the voltage at the ac lines I’m getting a high reading. Should this not be in the 120 area ? Also on other machines what colour wire is connected to the blue wire ? Mine is black with white stripe. I cant see in the schematics what colour is for what voltage.

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#962 48 days ago

Other question. I’m the backbox on the strobe mounting bracket one of the screws has a ground (green yellow ) and goes back to a ground in the back box. I don’t see anything from the strobe board to the metal bracket so what’s the point of that ?

#963 48 days ago

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1 month later
#1004 11 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I'm chasing two problems with my new game and am wondering if you can help.
The first involves the right flipper. When it is energized and the ball hits it, it dips ever so slightly. I have heard that this can be a problem with the EOS switch, so I took a look. My left flipper has a normal looking EOS switch. My right flipper (the one with the issue) has a strange looking one. It has two contacts and almost looks like a flipper button switch that controls both an upper and lower flipper. I wonder if those two switches got swapped. Here is a picture of the normal left one followed by the weird right one.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Can someone tell me if their right flipper EOS switch looks like this or if it looks more like my left one? If you can post a picture of your right one that shows the wiring, that would be great! Also, does your right flipper button have two contacts so that if you press it a little, it engages the lower flipper but not the other, and if you press it more, it engages both? Mine doesn't do that, so I'm wondering if things got switched around (no pun intended).
My second issue involves one of the upper drop targets. When it resets, at times, it goes up a little too far and doesn't go back down unless I take the glass off and manipulate it back down. I traced the problem to the linking arm on the drop target assembly -- that metal thing that has an elbow that hits the switches. When it goes up a bit too far, the elbow slides out of the slot in the back panel, and the whole target gets stuck in the up position. I've had this issue with another machine, and the cause there was a metal bracket that had a slot in it which broke. But, this assembly doesn't seem to have the same metal brackets. Any ideas on how to fix this? My two ideas are to somehow attach something to the sides of the slot in the metal plate to prevent the elbow from slipping out, but I'm not sure how to do that. Or, to drop something into the plunger coil so it doesn't move quite so high up when it resets the drop targets. The trick there would be to get it to move high enough that it can adequately reset them but not so high that the elbow slips out of the slot.
All help is very much appreciated! Thanks!

check and see if this is your issue because i had the same thing. I could flip the ball and if i held the flipper powered up and the bal came back to hit that same flipper it would slightly rotate the flipper.

#1007 11 days ago

i put a new one in but the one i took out will just get a little spot weld.

1 week later
#1014 2 days ago

I also posted this on the flight 2000 topic but its happening in both of my games.

Anyone else running the weebly setup? I was having issues with my boards so i got all new ones for my flash Gordon and flight 2k from weebly. Im running all his stuff in my Lectronamo with no issues but when powering up both machines the mpu fails to boot fully when the J2 connector is plugged in on the driver board. Im drawing a blank as to why this is happening.
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#1015 2 days ago

If i switch back to my old SD power boards they both boot fine.

#1016 22 hours ago

Found a solution for the issue that was happening. Weebly indicated that some caps on this latest revision board were the issue. I removed them as directed and everything boots and works.

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