(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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  • 2,811 posts
  • 269 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by zahner
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ss-pinball.
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#656 5 years ago

I'd love to find a player's condition Flash Gordon (or a project) within a few hours drive of Kalamazoo....anyone know of anything available? anyone? Bueller?

2 weeks later
#666 5 years ago

This may be a dumb question, but I still need an answer.

What's the story with the Bell Games version of Flash Gordon.
Any idea how many were made?
Any idea if they had a "metal overlay cabinet upgrade" for Flash Gordon?

https://www.tilt.it/bell.htm

5 months later
#915 4 years ago

I may have a lead on a FG project...probably my holy grail.
The central part of the lower playfield is down to the wood--not the worst one I've seen but certainly among the worst.

What's the story with Flash Gordon hard tops right now? Still available?

Also interested to know if there are any updated ROMs available.
(some pins like Firepower and Jungle Lord have new ones which have improved game play...I can't imagine FG being better or harder but it is worth asking).

#917 4 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you find any I'd like to get the images to compare to the original to see what changed in the code.
A while back I made a custom version of code for a Bally Blackjack that added a couple new tunes and changed the rules where you can lose points if you mess up.
I'd like to work on some custom code updates for Flash Gordon too. At some point if I can find a Flash Gordon project then I can look into it. Either the ones I've found were too far or the one I was going to make the 8 hour drive (each way) to get was sold as I was making arrangements to go get it. At this point even a salvageable project would be fine even if some boards or parts are missing. They made enough of these machines so there has got to be more packed away somewhere.

You would think they'd be easier to find, for sure.

2 months later
#949 4 years ago

Still looking for my FG project.

Any leads out there?

#956 4 years ago
Quoted from kuchiyaji:

I can't find this game anywhere at all...isn't there anybody selling one?

I know!

#966 4 years ago
Quoted from isJ:

What's a reasonable price on a flash gordon with a bit of playfield wear these days? Not totally trashed / playable as is.

Are you selling or buying?

Depends on a lot. How are the boards? Batteries on the boards? Off? NVRAM? LEDs? What's been done to it? How is the backglass? Cabinet? Legs? "Bit of playfield wear" is a phrase someone could drive a truck through...

I'm looking for a player's condition or project...

9 months later
#1246 3 years ago

Still looking for a Flash Gordon project...
even a populated playfield with harness would work...
I was offered one (pop. playfield) by Robotworkshop almost a year ago.
I passed. (Stupid mistake on my part).
He sold it on Craigslist in the Metro Detroit area...

Anyone on here buy it from him?

Anyone know of another one? (I don't care if it is blown out...probably going to hard top it anyway).

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

3 weeks later
#1260 3 years ago

Fingers crossed, I'll be joining the club very soon.
The machine is currently running an original board set.
It currently boots and plays most of the time.
Going to send out the boards immediately, as I'll need to clean and go over the machine and put together an order.
The board guy is going to add Vid's jumpers.
What is the situation with NVRAM and this title?
(I know Meteor has some ROM issues when coupled with NVRAM).
What is the preferred method to get rid of batteries for Flash Gordon?

#1262 3 years ago

Finally joined the club. Project though. Rough cabinet. Good playfield with no wear. Good plastics, clean boards. Backglass will do for now (taped with red tape along the bottom.

Lights.
Can someone use small words and explain the alltek light board
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1201-allteksystems/02798-auxiliary-led-lamp-driver-board-for-as-2518-52
for $90 which is supposed to take care of the LED flicker issue. Seems like a decent idea and probably a better fix

There is also a $50 flicker eliminator here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1181-pinballelectronicscom/02990-classic-bally-amp-stern-led-flicker-eliminator-adapter

what's the story?
Pros and cons?

My FG does not have the strobe...not sure what kind of headache I'd be opening myself up for if I decided to get one...they are in Germany? Any compatibility issues with the LED flicker solutions from above?

1 week later
#1281 3 years ago

Does anyone have a rubber map and list of materials? (I have a supply of some miscellaneous rubbers that I'd like to use that should cover 75% of this one)...just want to go through that before putting in my first order...

#1283 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

You can simply download the game manual which has the map and ring sizes.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874

Brilliant suggestion. I appreciate the no-nonsense approach.
The information pretends to be on page 9 of the manual (page 13 of the pdf from IPDB)
It is not clearly marked. The rubbers are in the section at the top under the heading "#1215 Flash Gordon"...interestingly, the map lays out A,C,D,F,G, and the number of rubbers corresponds to the number on the table...

However, B and E don't agree...there are supposed to be 5 "B" 1 inch rubbers...I see three labeled (top flipper, on the right, next to the kickout hole and next to the top bumper)...I suspect a fourth just below the 4 drop target assembly on the left of the playfield but that isn't labeled...the fifth one remains a mystery.

"E" rubbers are behind the 4 drop target on the left and another to the left of the kickout hole below a "D" rubber...no idea where a third one is supposed to go from this map.

Also, it looks like there are SIX posts (one is marked.... "32 minipost and rubber" (4) as the final item in the parts list BELOW the rubbers--again, the numbers don't seem to agree) that require rubbers but it isn't clear from the map what size...looks like that needs to be cross-referenced with a parts catalogue) and as the machine isn't right next to me, I'm not sure if they are metal posts or plastic posts.

You'd think in the last 39 years the information would have been put on an accurate, easy-to-read page.

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#1284 3 years ago

There may be a seventh post to the left next to the first drop in the in-line drop target assembly numbered 17...

#1286 3 years ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

I got a rubber kit and it was correct according to the manual but as I recall I used a 2” rubber instead of a 1.5” behind the 3 bank. The 1.5” was pretty tight and closed my switch.
Also I used the 3” rubbers for my slings but I wonder what’s 2.5” would look like. The 3” look a little loose to me and Mata Hari has 2.5” listed In the manual for the slings and the dimensions have to be pretty much the same.

Thanks QuietEarp that's pretty good info.
Anyone else have some hard-won wisdom on the rubber front?

I'm torn on using traditional rubbers vs some of the newer super-rubber stuff like Titan....the new stuff seems much "bouncier"...harder to trap balls and much more random. When I've played machines in the wild outfitted with new Titans or similar, I haven't really cared for the feel....I do like the idea of increased longevity and less disintegration/dust as the rubbers get older. I've also wondered about using Titans or similar on harder to reach areas on pins where there is significant disassembly required to change out all of the rubbers...I mean, you guys know how that works...there's always a handful that never get changed unless there is a complete disassembly...seems like in a cramped space like that and an area that could easily be overlooked or ignored these new types would be ideal. (I don't think that there are rubbers that specifically fit this description on FG, but I haven't really been working on this one yet. I've been concentrating on Meteor since that is probably easier and came in the door first). Should get a good start on FG in a week or two). Just trying to put together as complete an order as I can first time around...

#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Old school game, old school rubber. Also, simply just get a few extra for a dollar and your set as they will break down.

Yes, that is actually why I was looking for the list...I'm planning to use as much as I can from the pile of spares I have for most of this....so that the next batch of overstock I get doesn't dry out completely before use them. Rotate the old out and onto projects.

Your point about it being an old game that was designed for use with traditional rubber makes huge sense.

#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

"If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them."
Thanks for the help. The diode on the 2nd star rolllover switch from the shooter lane was pushed funny and was slightly touching the controlled lamp socket. I straightened the diode out, and moved the lamp socket a bit so it is not so close to the switch. This appears to have solved the problem, the switch is no longer racking up credits.
Also, as per ss-pinball's advice, I will be installing caps on all of the star rollover switches. I only have (2) total currently on the star rollover switches. Thanks again, mk

that was frunch

#1305 3 years ago

Not that my vote counts on someone else's machine butI'd stick with Classic Bally flippers...a wise man recently said to me "old school pin, old school rubbers"...
I was concerned about having too strong a flipper in the upper playfield--it is a problem with Meteor--the power of the upper flipper breaks the upper drop targets. It you go with the snappy new Williams flippers, you could have some problems, especially in the upper playfield.

New Classic Bally flippers will be an amazing upgrade, will "Feel right" and you won't likely have a problem killing your drops.

Again, if you do this with non-standard gear, make sure you keep some documentation with it or you will drive the next guy apeshit crazy.

1 week later
#1321 3 years ago

Cut me some slack for asking this question.

What color digits were the original FG displays? Orange? Red? Something else?

#1323 3 years ago

Thanks very much.

#1330 3 years ago

Anyone have a link for a power supply rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one at the usual suspects.

1 month later
#1384 3 years ago

Does anyone have a color code for the original red color on the cabinet?
Mine is awfully faded.
My plan is to touch it up now and properly do the cabinet next summer...

1 month later
#1443 3 years ago

Robotworkshop recently did mine. Very cool, knowledgeable and helpful guy. If you have a specific question, I'd reach out to him too.

2 weeks later
#1487 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Thanks. I tried to contact the folks at Pinpoint, but couldn’t find an email. I appears they no longer offer the strobe module.

Do you think that they would make a special run of the strobe assembly and board if there were several of us willing to order them now?

Is there enough interest to ask?

#1491 3 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Honestly, I have been hoping someone much smarter than me would re-invent the strobe using lower voltage and an LED.

THIS. All day long. This.

6 months later
#1730 2 years ago

Does anyone have a recent CPR backglass? Are they decent? anything missing? How's the mirroring?

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