(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago

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#41 5 years ago
Quoted from MTPPC:

I got a chance to check mine out. It wasn't booting (low voltage at the MPU), but I reseated the solenoid driver board J3 connector and it's up and running. It has a broken shooter lane switch and one of the pops isn't working, but I'm sure I'll grind through those in a day or two.
Off to buy a rubber kit and some other bits and pieces. woot!

wow, nice price. I paid $850 for mine earlier this year. Mine was running and has a great backglass. All original boards and it's an early one with the sounds plus and vocalizer board, no S&T. Serial number is EFG 1047. I started to take mine apart and planning a full resto on it. I got a CPR pf and plastics when they first released them. Twisted Pins stencil kit as well. This will be my first swap on a 2 piece pf. Hopefully it won't be too difficult. My cab has a ton of green mold spores on the bottom, not sure why, the game doesn't have alot of rust. I know I will be replacing that.

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Actually, only 10,000 made. And only 9,998 available out there because mine is a keeper too! I can only imagine how much MORE I'll love it once I find a strobe light for it! Anyone have a spare to sell??

This is from rgp, apparently the bulb from AFM will work:
I know it says Xenon but Xenon doesn't have a strobe lamp.

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

Thanks. There are little splashes of green throughout the playfield, so I thought a couple green light areas would really pop. Most everything else is a mix of incandescents and a couple CT retro warm whites. The green reflects off the metal ramps really well.
Post edited by TheShameGovernor : Stupid subject-verb agreement.

Thanks for starting this thread, you do awesome work. I use CT LEDs in my games as well. Did you use them in the feature lamps or just GI? If feature, did you have to use the Alltek lamp driver?

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

I absolutely love mine so better make that 9997 available, its going nowhere either. I'm currently restoring it back to as close to original as I can make it. The first picture below is the new CPR playfield installed but currently the playfield is back out of the machine while the cabinet is being done so I can't play it at the moment.

Second picture is the apron signed by Sam J Jones Flash Gordon himself!

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It looks like you chromed the ramps? How hard was it to clean out the star roll over inserts? I had to do only one on EBD and it was PITA, I can't imagine doing 7.

#47 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Lovef2k, save yourself some trouble, those star rollover inserts cost about $1 from Steve Young at Pinball Resource. Otherwise I soak them in 91% alcohol for about 10 minutes then hit them with an old toothbrush.

Sorry for the confusion, I should have been more specific. I was referring to the star inserts on the playfield. Any CPR, or other clear coated pf for that matter, the star will be filled with clear causing the star roll-over not to fit correctly. You have to be very careful and patient when removing the clear from these. If it breaks,you're screwed! I used a dremel with a tiny grinding bit with a diamond tip and very small files to do the EBD. The clear poses an issue here because the thickness of the clear makes the star roll over seem short and therefore a fast ball may not close the switch. The leaf switches have to be adjusted close and a cap is definitely needed on these. I think the star inserts should be masked when clearing but not all agree because it creates a divot in that area.
The next 3 swaps I plan to do all have several of these so I'm not thrilled about it.

#49 5 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

The only feature lights that gave me bad strobing issues were the upper/lower bonus rings, and maybe 1 or 2 others. Most everything else I used color matched 3LEDs from pinball life. I thought about buying the Alltek board, but it seems like a waste for just the bonus rings.

Color matching the LEDs to the inserts is the way to go if you don't want them to be super bright. Using all white might do that, especially if it's a translucent insert, opaque not as much. I have a ways to go before I light up my FG. I was hoping to start on the cab before the weather turned, but it's already down in the 50's here in the day time and breezy which doesn't help. I havn't got started on the cab yet.

#52 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Oh, sorry Rich, that makes more sense. For THAT I use a super super sharp(brand new) #11 xacto blade. My weapon of choice for most things since architecture school back in the 80s. Depending on how hard (recent) the clear is I will use a hot knife/ #11 attachment on a soldering iron (again with a fresh blade) the upside of the hot knife is no chipping of the clear, if you work carefully. The downside is that it's difficult to handle because the handle part you'd like to use for proper leverage is damn hot!
Back in school we found a german brand of xacto blades that were supposedly "sharper" or sharpened on both sides of the knife edge. I'm not sure how true that was but they did stay sharp longer. And cost more... I'd love to try those again.

Good advice, thanks. I have a hot knife and Exactos so I'll try them out.

#61 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

I don't have a lot of gameplay on our FG so I have a question for you guys, do your spinners make any scoring sounds when they score? I noticed last night that mine are silent, yet they score. I forgot to check but I'm fairly certain my sound option is set to 3 "Most all scoring will have a noise effect with background"
I still haven't addressed my "emperor roo awaits" sound issue or recapped the sound board, btw. Maybe this weekend...

Does your FG have the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer boards (early games) or the S&T(later games)?
Missing sounds could be a bad sound rom or the sound generator which is U12 on the S&T U12 is a AY3-8912. My EBD was missing the ratcheting sound at the end of the game when it is counting down to the match numbers. The game actually went silent until the match numbers final appeared and then that final sound it makes returned. I know it's weird but I changed the U12 and it worked fine after that. Missing speech can be the U8 TMS-5200 speech chip. This chip is subject to tarnish on the legs. Try re-seating it and re-check speech.

If you have the sound plus and vocalizer, you'll need a xenon manual for the schematic since they only made FG manuals with the S&T board in it no matter which one was in the game.

#62 5 years ago
Quoted from Bdavis1969:

Guys as somebody that sold one that I spent hours and hours on restoring....don't do it!
Huge regret then I spent months trying to find a new one, finally did and it was beat to death. Working on trying to get it presentable but with my skill and its problems its going to be a long road!

Are you referring to the playfield, or the entire game?

#67 5 years ago

Adam that's looking real sweet. I chromed 2 of the ball guides on F2K like you did here. I remove the L brackets and re-place them after I get them back from Mike Chestnut. He's well know in the pinball hobby here in the states for his great chrome work. It is a pain to remove the old rivets without messing up the L bracket. I use new nickel plated rivets. I also have to use a back-up washer on the back of the L brackets but they are unseen after installation. On my FG, the small ramp behind the 2 way saucer eject has small divots from the ball hitting it. I don't know what to do with it. I could probably cut a new piece out of mirror stainless but the half round section is beyond my skill to cut out.

If yo do use a dremel anywhere near these star inserts, please be super careful. Use the slowest speed that will allow you to remove the material.

#71 5 years ago
Quoted from Bdavis1969:

The whole thing was pretty much in rough shape. But it's coming together.

Yep it is a ton of work but we do it for the love of the game and hobby. Sometimes we don't get back what we put in and sometimes we do

#75 5 years ago
Quoted from MTPPC:

Ming Face Lights and Flash Gordon Lights in the backbox.
They're fixed now. THe problem was oxidized connector on the auxiliary lamp board.

Good catch, starting with the easiest stuff sometimes works. You might want to drop new header pins in the lamp driver boards and/or replace the connector pins if you're keeping the game. I couldn't answer you because my FG is apart right now and I didn't have it very long before I took it apart to know.

#79 5 years ago

That's what's cool about these games. every once in a while, you'll have such an unbelievable that you think you'll never be able to top it,so you back for more...

#80 5 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's what's cool about these games. every once in a while, you'll have such an unbelievable that you think you'll never be able to top it,so you back for more...


#82 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Yes, ramps are chromed, they look brand new but my games still in pieces at the moment. The cabinet was stuffed and had a very bad custom paint job on it as well. I've just had a new cabinet made and it's currently being re-stenciled.
He's a pic of the old (badly hand painted cabinet) and the new ready for painting.

The star rollovers were an absolute PITA but I became pretty handy with the scalpel by the time I'd done all of them.

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I meant to ask about the new cab. Did you make it or someone else, if so, who? Actually the original doesn't look all that bad, someone went through a lot of trouble to change the artwork. Are you going to transfer the serial number to the new cab? I have been looking for the punch set that was used for that, so far no luck.

#86 5 years ago

What is a power ball? Besides a lottery I'll never win

#88 5 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

It's the white ceramic pinball found in Twilight Zone. It's lighter and faster.

Lighter huh? Now you got me thinking...would this ball be better at reducing wear and tear on a cleared pf perhaps? Ball divots or example?

#90 5 years ago

Nice! You'll have to make a template for the pcb brackets in the back box. The spacing is critical for this because you want the holes on the boards to match up brackets. I use the original ground foil for the template when replacing with new foil. You also want to use the same screws so you don't poke through the back. My FG has the cheapy cardboard with the aluminum covering but I will go with the solid aluminum sheet metal when I replace it. Here's couple of pics from my second EBD resto game. Same exact set up as FG.

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#92 5 years ago

No matter how you do it, it's going to be tricky. Personally I would make a template from the old box after the foil is removed. Possibly made of heavy paper or poster board. Keep that backbox handy until you're ready to install it. It's hard to tell from these pics, but I reused the corner pieces. Your FG may not have these.I just cleaned them up. At the time, I didn't have a brake to make the bends if I used new pieces. The sides and top is standard roof flashing that you can buy off the shelf. In the states it's a standard 6 inches and comes in a roll which is nice and easy to work with. I also wear surgical glove while working with the aluminum to minimize fingerprints.

#94 5 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

Theoretically, yes I think it would, but with increased speed you introduce more risk to broken plastics, drops, etc... And I don't think the reduction in wear would be all that noticable with a cleared playfield in a home use environment anyway.
I had a powerball in my Genie. I thought, hey, this'll speed things up. First game- shattered drop target and cracked lane guide. Granted, these are 35 year old parts, but that was enough for me.
It was fast though.

I kind of thought that might happen. Plus $45 for the ball? Too much for me!

1 month later
#113 5 years ago

Awesome work, give yourself a pat on the back!

2 weeks later
#118 5 years ago

Adam, how did you do your zinc plate? I'm lucky enough to live close by a plating shop that does it for me. As long as the part isn't rusty, he will dip them in a stripper and re-plate them for me at a reasonable price. Some parts do need attention though, sanding or a light clean up with a Scotch Brite.

#120 5 years ago

Adam, wow that's probably the worst door I have seen yet. I usually try to pick up coin doors at pin shows for spare parts. Lately though they are getting scarce and ridiculous prices on ebay too. It's funny you bring up the blaster. I bough a bead blaster this past summer. Mine can use either glass or aluminum oxide. My only problem is that my air compressor doesn't have enough cfm's (cubic feet per minute) to run the blaster very long until it runs out of air. It does do a great job on rust and also removing paint from the old Stern coin door skins and pin legs. I bought a new gun for the blaster that uses less air but have not had time to try it out.

Congrats on the KoS. I recently passed over an Eight Ball Champ for a good price and still kicking myself....

1 month later
#127 5 years ago
Quoted from Tokkentakker:


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That's a decent pf for this game, good find. Eclectic assortment of drop targets though What sound issues? Is it Squawk and talk or the earlier sounds plus and vocalizer boards?

#128 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Should be getting my project machine with CPR playfield and plastics for swap next Tuesday if all goes well. Super excited to get it running and play before the swap.

Started my FG swap 2 weeks ago. This is my 7th swap so far. Biggest issue is the 7 star roll-over inserts, getting the clear coat removed so that the stars move freely. It arduous to say the least. I lifted the clear on one of the star points but luckily it didn't come all the way off, and I should be able to fix it with some clear finger nail polish or super glue. My pf was warped, so I had new side boards made of oak. The stronger wood won't bend as much and helped to straighten the pf. The CPR lower portion of the pf is an 1/8 inch longer than mine. This had me concerned about the ramps fitting. Do a dry run on the ramps before you determine how far to space the upper and lower sections. here's some pics of the ramp trial fit. Not sure what to do with the ramps, clean and buff, or chrome plate them?

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#129 5 years ago

New oak boards compared to worn out originals.

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#146 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Did you make those or have them made? (Where did you get the oak?)

I had them made at a local shop. They supplied the wood. I had the two long side pieces and the rear piece with half circle cut out reproduced. Was pricy at $55 but had to be done. I drilled the hole and countersinks myself. It still took several hours to get everything lined up perfectly. I used some quick grip clamps to hold the boards in place while i drilled the pilot holes. Pilot holes are neccessary because oak is very hard and you dont want strip or break any screws.

#148 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Great work there Rich, I had the same issues with fitting the ramps on my new Playfield also. In the end it all fit very nicely but you really need to have all four ramps (this includes the shooter lane chrome ramp) as well as the two brackets which fix to the back of the playfield loosely in place and adjust and tighten them to get it right. I didn't have all these pieces on the first time I fixed the ramps off and it ended up just taking longer to get it all right.

Thanks Adam, this is why I dry fitted the ramp before deciding where the upper pf should be. I did also check the shooter lane ramp which I might replace with new metal. It's really beat up. Did you have to scrape off any of the clear coat where the ramps mount?

#149 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

thanks for the info.

No problem, I will do the same when I do HS.

#150 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I cleaned and buffed my ramps and they turned out good but I think the best option would be to chrome plate them especially since yours look a bit rougher than mine did on my FG playfield swap. Here's the thread on mine in case you need to reference anything.

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking chrome as well. My game is an early one and has seen better days. All the flipper mechs were changed to gtb and the shaft holes of the pf were bored out larger to fit them.

3 weeks later
#164 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Took probably a hundred pics just pulling things off the playfield. Going to likely purchase one of the wire labelers at HD to help with all the rewiring. Still need to get wire braid for the ground braiding on the playfield. Not sure I will redo the cabinet braiding though I am restenciling the cab. Going to make a thread here on pinside with a few pics but will probably post for on a separate blog or whatnot.

I use this for the pf trace wire. See ebay link. He sells it in 250' rolls for like $40. The trace(bare wire) is the supply for the GI and switches lamps. For the switched lamps it's actually the hot side not ground. The lamps are switched through ground. If replacing the staple down sockets, pay attention to the solder tabs. Try to keep the hot tab and base on the same side of the circuit. If you look closely at how Bally did it, you will see they did the same.

ebay.com link

#165 5 years ago

Getting heavy into my FG resto. I blew the cab apart because the bottom panel is covered in mold spores and the rear flake board panel is chewed up at the bottom. Plus it makes it easier to remove the bottom panel. Going to replace the rear panel with real plywood.

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#167 5 years ago

Thanks Adam. The inside of this cab is really ugly. Typically I would sand the sand the inside with 60 grit and then go to 80. This one is just not worth the hassle so I will paint the inside all the down to the bottom panel groove. Luckily these cabs were nailed and not screwed together, if they were , I would think it would have been way more difficult to get the cab apart. I had the rear panel reproduced in regular 3/4 Birch plywood. For $35 it's worth it for me because of the extra cuts needed.

Yesterday I took it even further. I removed the cross sections at the bottom that hold the transformer plate. I will also make new pieces to replace them. They are just 3/4 ply with a notch cut on each end. So now the cab is just the 2 sides and front and the pf supports. Everything else will be replaced with new. I had to temporarilly install the rear panel back on to keep the front of the cab from coming apart while I work on it. Now it's time to prep the inside of the cab walls for painting. Where the wedge cleats were removed, there's splinters where the glue pulled the plywood layer off. I will need to fill those areas. No biggie since the new cleats will cover it.

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#168 5 years ago

I have never taken A bally cab apart before. It look really rough right now but will look amazing when I'm finished. I have a ton of work to do for now. Removing the wdge cleats to get the bottom panel out really does a number on the cab side as you can see here. This where they used the most glue. The groove that the bottom slides into hardly had any glue. The little that was there was brittle and not doing much at all.

The very bottom of the plywood sides, the under side of the cab is also rough. Some of the bottom is splintered which is typical of these cab. The splintering has actually worked to my advantage because it allowed me to get the front cross member out of the cab without taking the cab fully apart. I didn't want to compromise the front mitre joints and create even more work for myself. I spread to cab apart just enough to expose the nails holding the bottom cross member. I cut the nails on one side with a hack saw blade. Freeing the one side allowed me to pull the wood up and remove it and only leaving the nails. I repeated this for the 2nd piece. The front vertical piece(behind the coin box) wasn't nailed thank goodness. Where the cab was splintered, was able to gently pull the wood aside and tap the board out of the groove and remove it. When it's time, I can install the new boards and glue the splintered wood back together and it will be impossible to ever know it was apart.

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#169 5 years ago

I gone a little done today in the last hour or two. Here's how I was able to remove the vertical cross beam I mentioned earlier. The plywood was already split along the seam of the plywood. If lifted it just enough to tap the board out.

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#170 5 years ago

Sorry about the typos, I must be tired! You knew what I meant though. After removing the remainder of the wedge cleats, I removed any remaining glue and started to fill the splintered wood with Plastic Wood filler. This stuff dries fast so you have to work quickly. Also need acetone to clean the tools but this stuff dries hard and doesn't shrink or crack over time.

This week I'll have the new boards cut of the wood works shop where I purchased the year panel. I could make these myself but need to buy a table saw and the want I want is around $500 or more, so for now I'll the extra for the labor and save time in the process.

It's a little on the cool side here and it's cloudy so I'm not as motivated to keep going. I might start sanding the filler later today. I need to start working on the backbox as well.

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#171 5 years ago

Last weekend I stripped the lamp board. I will replace the supply wire and lamp sockets with new. I made a schematic so I can easily replace the wiring. I painted the lamp board with white gloss spray paint. I'll start re-pinning the and replacing the connector housings while the harness is off the board.

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#172 5 years ago

My progress on the playfield so far. Top side, all the red posts and mini posts installed. Pop bumper bodies and associated parts all new and installed. Wire form guides installed. Trough parts installed. Under side, new trace wire and lamp sockets installed, now marking locations for flipper and sling mounts.

Re-assembling mechanical parts, saucer, slings, flippers, outhole kicker etc. Mostly all metal parts have been stripped and re-zinced. Trough parts in nickel.

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#177 5 years ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Does anyone know where I can find the stainless ball guides for the in-lanes? Are these available anywhere or are there protectors out there? Mine seem to be worn down a little bit, which causes the ball to do a little jump when it hits the base of the flipper. It's not too bad, but it would sure be nice to have a smooth roll onto the flippers from the guides. I am open to other suggestions.

Pinball Resource has them. Bally part numbers A-2898-38 for the right and A-2898-39 left. I bought 2 sets a few years ago. They weren't as nice as the original, I think his may be repros. One side had jagged metal but can be filed if needed. IIRC they were $11 each. Email them and they will let you know if in stock. I would have them chromed.
For now, you can try to adjust the returns, I think there's a little play in there. Also, are the flipper bats correct for the game? A wider bat can cause ball hop.

#178 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Wondering if anyone here has swapped in a CPR PF in their FG yet and what thoughts you have about how it has held up. I've heard the clear on these was soft and as a result the pfs don't hold up well. I know this game will get abuse and the inserts on mine have a few crescent registration issues - that I could live with - but wonder if it is worth it to have a little painting on those done and proper clear if it's going to cost 500 more dollars. Thoughts?

The CPR clear coated pf's do dimple from the ball bouncing on the pf. They are aware of this and claim it's normal and call this the "break in" period. So I guess eventually the entire clear should become flat with hundreds of games played. If you want a rock hard clear, you need to send the pf to Ron Kruzman. I sent a CPR F2K to him a couple of years ago because of some crud in the clear and I didn't want dimples. Ron actually experiments by dropping a pinball on his clear coats. I got no dimpling on the F2K pf after playing it.

#180 5 years ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Thanks! Yup, correct bats. The guides are noticeably worn. I have tried adjusting them as high as I can, but it's still not perfect. Good to know PBR stocks these.

Yeah I'm not a big fan of this design. I would think these shorten the life of the pinball with the metal to metal contact. I have a pair of these returns that are peened up pretty bad. These re also used in EBD but atleast you have the plastic layer undernieth. I was thinking of doing that to the FG. It helps eliminate the balls hopping over the return guide.

#181 5 years ago
Quoted from Silverballer:

I have wanted a nice Flash Gordon for a long time but it still eludes me, so I am on the sideline for now and watching you guys have all the fun. Thats ok, I love you Flash but we only have 14 hours to save Earth.

Flash Gordon for sale on Mr.Pinball classifieds. New Hampshire, no price. Not mine.

#183 5 years ago

Has anyone re-stenciled their cab with the Twisted Pins stencils? I have done 5 re-stencils. The first 3 with Pinball Pal stencils and 2 with my own. I have never used the peel and stick type yet and they difficult to apply. I guess you only get a chance or 2 to get them right when laying them down? Also wondering about the accuracy of the artwork.

Still working on the mechanical stuff, now it's the drop target banks. All the metal was re-plated and looks new and shiny. I used PBR drop targets, new nyliners, springs, coil sleeves. An NOS coil on the single drop and the green coil is a NOS Quality Coils brand coil. Will soon start replacing the diodes and caps on the pf switches and re-installing the harness.

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1 week later
#187 5 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Has anyone re-stenciled their cab with the Twisted Pins stencils? I have done 5 re-stencils. The first 3 with Pinball Pal stencils and 2 with my own. I have never used the peel and stick type yet and they difficult to apply. I guess you only get a chance or 2 to get them right when laying them down? Also wondering about the accuracy of the artwork.
Still working on the mechanical stuff, now it's the drop target banks. All the metal was re-plated and looks new and shiny. I used PBR drop targets, new nyliners, springs, coil sleeves. An NOS coil on the single drop and the green coil is a NOS Quality Coils brand coil. Will soon start replacing the diodes and caps on the pf switches and re-installing the harness.


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2 weeks later
#201 5 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

I have used the peel and stick variety of stencils on several cabs so far:
Power Play
Harlem Globetrotters
Made my own for:
Surf Champ
The peel and stick work well but you have to make sure you get them lined up correctly. I have found on the more intricate art that I just cut the stencil into 3rds - it makes it SO much easier to get the registration correct. So far I have had the peel and stick from Classic Arcades. I have found the art to be close - never going to get exact but close enough for most. Don't get much if any overspray "look" with them. They have enough stick to put them up and down about 4 times. Not reusable by any stretch of the imagination after you have painted and pulled them off.
I just bought a set from Twisted Pins to do a Silverball mania. I will let you know if there is any difference between the two manufacturers.
I PREFER to make my own, but on some of these games the details are just too daunting/time consuming.

Thanks for the tips, good luck with SBM. I still have alot of work to do on the cab before I get to the stenciling stage.

3 weeks later
#208 5 years ago
Quoted from TZ:

I am trying to find the cabinet-to-backbox hinges for my FG? Were there other games that used the same hinges? Any ideas on a good replacement hinge?

EBD and possibly Fathom

2 months later
#213 5 years ago
Quoted from WonkoTSane:

I was given my Flash Gordon 20 years ago for free. It was a "We are are moving and it is not, take it if you want it" deal. It needed mechanical work then and I did the best I could not knowing anything.
The cabinet is in okay shape and will be easily fixed with a little filler and some new paint.

The playfield is well beyond my ability to repair. I am looking for a CPR reproduction to swap it with.

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I'm restoring one right now. Twisted Pins makes a nice cabinet stencil kit if you're going to restore the cab.

1 week later
#216 5 years ago

Here's the latest pics of my FG resto. See page 4 for previous pics. It's been slow going since my work hours have changed. I can only really work on it over the weekends . The inside of cab is finished. All new wood cross members and wedge cleats. New armor plate installed. Ground braid also installed. New rear panel was a ton of work but worth the end result and also took a few pounds off the weight of the cab. I hope to get the back box support re-installed and get some primer on the cab by the end of the month.

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#217 5 years ago

I painted the speaker mount red to add some contrast. I also powder coated the transformer mounting plate and coin box in red to match. I chromed the pf ramps and flipper return ball guides. Also chromed, coin door skin and associated parts, shooter rod and escutcheon plate,lock down bar.

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#219 5 years ago

My FG was running before I tore it apart but the upper flipper was replaced with a 3 inch bat and the ball sailed across the pf so the game play wasn't accurate. I have read alot of FG threads and all say that FG kicks their butts and it's hard to score a million or higher. This probably had people wanting to play more which lead to the higher amount of money and shorter game time than HSII.

#221 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:


Thanks mof, I just found your "worst of the worst" thread. I like the idea of showing off one's work. Some of those pf restos are unbelievable! I wish I had those skills.

#223 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Fantastic work Rich, I was wondering how this resto was coming along. Re-chroming those ramps will finish your playfield off beautifully too. I'll be looking forward to your next updates.

Yes, I can't wait to see them installed. I want to get new screws for them but haven't found a supplier yet. I have some in brass but that won't look right to me. I need to find stainless steel or nickel plated screws. I also have new metal strips( mirror stainless) for the upper playfield ball guides. I will have to bend them into shape and then attach the L brackets to them.

2 weeks later
#224 5 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yes, I can't wait to see them installed. I want to get new screws for them but haven't found a supplier yet. I have some in brass but that won't look right to me. I need to find stainless steel or nickel plated screws. I also have new metal strips( mirror stainless) for the upper playfield ball guides. I will have to bend them into shape and then attach the L brackets to them.

I finally found the screws to install the ramps, they a #4 x 3/8 stainless steel. pics coming soon. Has anyone repainted their FG cab with Twisted pins stencils? I'm curious how it came out.

4 weeks later
#229 5 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

Where did you get the screws from?


ebay.com link

#232 5 years ago
Quoted from cpu-slave:

I recently used the Twisted pins stencils on a FG cab. Registration was a b!tch! I used automotive lacquer for the base red and black (which really worked great) and used restoleum gold rattle-can for that layer. I have some minor touchups to do before I finish with a matte clear but overall am happy compared to what it was when I started (entire cab was painted solid grey for some reason)
Overall I liked the stencils but wish they were adhered to a clear layer to make it easier to line everything up correctly. Even following their directions I ended up having to pull up and re-position a lot of the stencil material to get things to line up correctly.
This was my 'practice cab' - I have another FG that I'm going to do as well with a CPR playfield for that one.

Post edited by cpu-slave: added additional info

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Thanks for the pics and tips. Alignment is my main concern because I never used this type of stencil before. I always used repositionable stencils. So lining up the lower left corners as per instructions didn't help? Were you able to reposition them without losing the stickyness of the glue?

#235 5 years ago
Quoted from cpu-slave:

Obviously the black stencil was straight-forward but when I came to the gold layer that's when I had issues. With the stencil backing not being clear, lining up the corner and laying it down was still kind of a 'best-guess' and for whatever reason (maybe it was me?) the registration ended up being slightly off in places.
In several areas I pulled up the vinyl and re-positioned it to line up correctly with the black (mainly the large stripes but some of the emblem in the center as well) Since I didn't go crazy with the squeegee it did come up but did tear in some places so I patched those with tape before painting. It's vinyl and it will 'stretch' if pulled wrong so I was really careful doing all of this. As to your 'stickyness' question, no worries there - plenty of adhesiveness.
Like I said, overall I was happy but not knowing that the registration was going to be a challenge made it more work than I was initially expecting. If I could make any recommendation it would be to have the stencils backed with clear instead of the white to make lining things up much much easier.
I have my other FG cab to do and will buy another set of stencils when I'm ready to paint again. Even with the issues I experienced, I'm happy with the end result - and the cab certainly looks better than it did before I started. Next time I will try to do all of it with automotive lacquer as the paint lays nice and doesn't leave ridges - I have some slight ridges with the gold that I hope to correct with the matte clear-coats.

As far as making transparent stencils, maybe you should suggest that to Travis,Twisted pins. I think it's a great idea. I used clear masking when I made my F2K stencils. I bought the material from PJ's stencils online. I always get some kind of ridges from the stenciling where different colors intersect, there's no way around it really. The clear coat does knock it down a bit but you will still feel it. It's more of a physical thing and not really visual, besides, hopefully not too many people will be feeling up your cab
For the clear, I use Deft clear lacquer in satin. Blowes and home cheapo used to sell it but no longer carry it, so I get it on epay. I like it because it dries super fast, you can lightly sand between coats very soon after spraying and the satin finish hides flaws that a glossy coat tends to make stand out.
Oh another thing I do when stenciling a cab is to make measurements of the artwork, rather I make reference points in specific areas to help with alignment. Tons of pics also help. I also marked the "center of the FG star point" on the bottom of the cab where I have the masking paper. This should help assure that I have the stencil centered properly.
For the colors, I'm using rustoleum apple red and I made a custom gold (Sherwin Wms Brass Tack) which is the same gold used on EBD. It's more of a mustardy looking gold. Hopefully I'll have pics to post in a week or so.

#236 5 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

The lower left corner will get you close, but there is still small deviation across the stencil from left to right depending on how you apply it. What I do, is to cut out small areas of the stencil that allow you to verify where the stencil will lie when applied. 6-8 of these small areas - usually where the next color will be applied anyway- will net you great results. The twisted pin stencils are MUCH better than the classic arcade stencils. I will never buy a set from Jeff@classicarcades again.

Hmmm, how much of a deviation are we talking? Do you thing I'll be better off centering the stencil using the star area as a reference? How about the backbox stencils, was there any issues there? I did take measurements of where the black and red meet on the sides of the cab and where the center of the gold start was on my cab before sanding the artwork away.

#238 5 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

The backbox is easy to do - partly because of the smaller area to line up.
The deviation could be up to a 1/4 inch depending on the angle at which they were applied and how that translates through the rest of the design.
I did cut an area out of the star region and it helped. I had the classic arcade version as I bought it long before Twisted Pins was in business. The Twisted pin stencil I used for Wizard and Silverball Mania were very very close. Some manual adjustments here and there of individual pieces were necessary but I haven't found a laser cut stencil that applied 100% perfect yet.
If you want a very very nice gold spray paint - go to Michaels and get their house brand gold spray paint. It looks like gold leaf when dry. I was very happy with the results on my game.

Thanks for the advice. I'm actually going to apply the black stencils today. I had to build a temporary paint booth out of my shed because it's getting to breezy to paint outside.

For the gold, I already have a color matched from EBD. The same color was used on both games. It's more of a mustardy gold or yellow if you will. Since these 2 games were released one after the other, they did use the same colors on some games. I'm sure your gold looks great but I'm trying to stay true to original if possible.

Wish me luck!

#239 5 years ago

I finally got the black stencils applied, cpu-slave, your right about the registration. I'm not sure why, but Twisted Pins cut out the gold sections on the lower half of the black stencils. The front gold and the side gold strips don't line up. I decided to remove those pieces of gold from the black stencils. I figure he did it to help with aligning the gold stencils? I think it will make it harder to cover when applying the gold, plus it will make too much paint build up. Following the instructions, lining up the lower corner didn't work for me on the main cab right side. I lined up the lower left along the bottom of can and to the front edge, thinking this would be square. I ended up the a .25 inch over hang at the bottom right edge. I didn't lift up the stencil in fear of stretching it and ruining it. It's not all that bad and I can fix it later with a touch up of red paint. As long as the gold star is closely centered, I'll be happy. On the left side, I used the entire bottom edge as my guide and it worked better.

The backbox rather straight forward. I used the bottom and rear edge to align the stencils. I ran out of daylight to shoot some paint on. Masking the cab takes alot of time. Will paint tomorrow.

In the mean time I have been re-pinning all the connectors. I almost have all the backbox connectors finished. I do all connectors, even the coin door. There will be no more IDC connectors in this game!

#241 5 years ago

Finally got some paint on the FG cab. I'm very happy with the twisted pins stencil material. First color, black, went on very well. It's rustoeum satin black. I did however, botch the cab right side stencil and only painted the left and front sides until I get the replacement stencil in the mail.

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#242 5 years ago

Some more pics. This coin door was hacked pretty good, slam switch cut off, coin eject bar and mounts MIA, start switch butchered. The inner armor plate originally had a galvanized finish and the coin return basket is some type of pot metal. I decided to powder coat them as opposed to replating. I have done these before and they don't turn out as well as I would like in zinc. I chose red of course to go with the game. The skin is an NOS (I think) that I had chromed. All the frontal parts are chromed. Inside, the coin shutes ,volume pot mount and the lock out coil mount are nickel plated and the rest re-zinced. I live near a shop that strips the parts for me and re-plates them. The harness was also hacked. I had to rob wires from another door and re-route them. I used red wire ties as well. The quarter plates are from CPR and the SBA is NOS. So the switches are rebiult, new fish paper, diodes etc. New 24 pin molex housing and new pins.

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#248 5 years ago

More pics of the re-paint. I applied the yellow layer stencils on the back box and masked it. I finished the black right side today after getting my replacement stencil yestersday,(thanks Travis!).
For the yellow/gold color, I want to stay close to the original color. It looks just like the gold on EBD, to me anyway. It could be the same color as these 2 games were released back to back right after Xenon.
I have the color but it's an oil based paint that I would have to spray with an air gun. I have done my 2 EBD restos this way and it's time consuming and messy. I'm not a pro at using this type of sprayer either. You have to get the correct air-paint ratio and fan width for the paint to spray evenly and not splotchy. The paint also needs to be thinned and the cure time is weeks instead of a few days as rattle cans are. I need a fast cure because I finish my re-paints with a lacquer satin clear.

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1 month later
#250 4 years ago

Well Finally got the cab re-paint finished. Between stencil problems and the weather, it took way longer than I wanted it to. Now I can finally start to re-assemble.

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#251 4 years ago

sorry pics not so great, cloudy here

#255 4 years ago

FG is one of the tougher CPR's to find. I got mine from the beginning of the pre-order.

I worked on the game today. Mostly on the main cab harness. Replaced all connectors, new flipper switches, new line filter, MOV and AC cord. Cleaned the wires on both transformers and painted the main transformer with satin black paint. The part number on the top were very faint so painting over didn't do much harm. I'm thinking of making a label to put on the transformer. I had the L brackets chromed and will use new stainless screws to mount it. I removed the cover of the small transformer and had that chromed also. I have some hardware in the tumbler now, so waiting for that to finish.

Might have some pics by tomorrow evening.

#256 4 years ago

what I did over the weekend. Painted transformer and put on the chromed L brackets and fuse holder. Re-pinned the connectors and replaced the housings. Put on the chromed coin door trim and ground straps. Lockdown receiver and release lever. Release lever carriage bolt and washer chromed as well.

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#258 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:


Thanks mof.
I bolted on the coin door today and it fit very well. I have chromed a few of these Bally doors and sometimes they rub against the trim when closing. The key is to make sure the hinge doesn't have any slack which is caused by people leaning on the top of the door when it's open. This one was rub free on the first try, so I was excited about that. I still have to install the mini transformer on the mounting plate. I don't know what's for, my guess would be the backbox strobe light. I have to order a 2 pin connector for that before I install it. There's finally light at the end of the tunnel for this 10 month restoration

#259 4 years ago

Anyone know where I can find decent 5 inch full range speaker for the FG? Mine uses 2, like Xenon. 8 ohm. I bought the ones Marco sells but they look cheap, and the baskets are white metal, not the yellow anodized look which I think would look better.

#260 4 years ago

Chrome up the wazoo! Everything on coin door chromed, coin bezel, entry plates, both hinges, start button, eject button and flapper. shooter rod and bezel. Mini transformer cover. Some think it's over the top, but in person it looks awesome.

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#262 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I don't think it's over-the-top. I'm in the process of doing the same thing than mine right now

Thanks, did you find a backglass yet?

#264 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Yep. Somewhat local too. Did mike do your chrome?

Yes, Mike is the only guy I need for chrome.

3 weeks later
#265 4 years ago

This is what I did last week end. Returned main cab harness to game. Installed the tilt parts on a new piece of plywood. Installed speakers and cab vent screen that I chromed. Installed new aluminum sheet metal in backbox, replaced that gnarly cardboard foil stuff and the tech cards and labels.

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#273 4 years ago
Quoted from iron00monkey:

I know "never powder coat ramps!"
This FG was covered in rust and mold. The playfield chrome was garbage.
I got the chrome stuff powder coated, and covered it in mylar. I like the way it looks.

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The red PC looks nice, I did that on some cab parts as seen posted earlier. Did you remove the L brackets from the upper ball guides before powder coat?

I started this way back with a Xenon resto. I make new guides and re-use the L brackets. It's a shit ton of work though. Finding the right size rivets and using a hand rivet sqeezer was the hardest part. I bought mirror stainless from a website call metal by the inch. I original bought a bunch cut to length for the left long guide on EBD. I used 2 of those pieces for FG, just cut them to proper length. I remove the old rivets by grinding off the front of the rivets until flat. I grind off the fronts so not too damage the L brackets. The original rivets are solid brass and grind down rather easily. The L brackets fall off but the rivet stays in the hole. After the rivet cools down, it's easily knocked out with a punch or similar tool. I then flatten the curved rail to get the length for the new piece. I use the old flattened piece as a template to drill the holes for the L brackets, in this case it's a 3/32 in bit. I leave the protective film on the metal while drilling. I drill form the finished side but being careful because metal shavings from drilling can cut through the protective film. Mirror stainless scuffs very easily. I place the rivets in the holes and place painter's tape on them to hold in place. My rivets are slightly too long so I needed to use a back up washer which isn't seen from the playfield. To make the the bends, I use a cheap 30in HF brake and various size shipping tubes with a soft cloth. You can also use the old pf as a guide for the bends and curves.

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#278 4 years ago

Now that I think about it, it's better that you didn't because the powder coat would have made the holes smaller and then you would've had to ream them out risking damage to the finish.

#280 4 years ago
Quoted from Doughboy809:

@Lovef2k the red powder coating looks awesome,you powder coated parts I didn't even think about painting. I have two FG the first I am getting restored and the second I would like to chrome and powder coat it also.

On previous Bally restorations that I have done, the transformer mounting plate, coin box and coin door parts, I had re-plated and they never turned out that nice, that's why I went to the PC. I will be starting my 3rd EBD resto some time this year. I have already powdered the same parts in gold, and this time added in the lockdown receiver bar just to see how it turns out. My inpsiration was MikeD's Centaur and Fathom restos.

#283 4 years ago
Quoted from Doughboy809:

I just found out this morning that I may have to wait awhile on my custom FG. My resto has now hit the $10-11,000 in labor mark, and I don't know what a custom will cost yet. I was following what people were doing to there machines a few years ago on RPG but they shut that forum down and I was turned onto Pinside a month or so ago. Like I said though the powder coating looks badass.

Thanks. I don;t know what you mean by custom, do you mean a mod version like the Ghost Busters one? Restos are extremely expensive, so I know a custom must be off the chart.

#284 4 years ago

Today was a good day. Well yesterday I mean. I powered up the FG playfield for the first time since the swap, no smoke and no blown fuses, yay. When I restored these Bally games, I only connect J1 on the power supply just to power up the GI's on the pf. Once that phase is done, I connect the rest of the power supply connections and boot the game without the pf 1A slow blow fuse, just in case there's any locked coils. That's as far as I got today. I still need to connect the jumper for the Alltek lamp driver because I'm running LED's in the feature lamps and GI's. So until that's done, I have alot of flickering going on.

#287 4 years ago
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:

I can't wait to see the final product!

It's coming together nicely. Out of all the CPR swaps, this one had the closest dimples for the plastics and posts. Won't be too much longer.

#288 4 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Great stuff! You're on the home straight now. It's always a huge relief when you turn it on for the first time and nothing fries. Well done!

LOL. yes indeed!

#289 4 years ago

Can someone tell me where the ground wire goes for the strobe. I don't remember disconnecting it. I guess it goes on the strobe pcb mounting plate?

1 week later
#293 4 years ago
Quoted from KevinG-ATL:

Hi Folks,
Am having some issues with my Squawk n Talk. "Out of Nowhere" the output volume on the board just dropped, with master volume and pots turned all the way up volume is very, very low. Caps, you say? Well, it was re-capped at some point in the past (not to say it doesn't need to be again) and I did replace the pots.
As a separate note, when I was searching around on other forum, I saw the attached pic of of the board and it had jumpers in the lower left corner, mine doesn't.
1. Should those traces be jumped? or was that just needed for the other machine, do you think (a Medusa)?
2. Any suggestions in general about the problem if not caps?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Death to Ming!

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Yes, different games have different jumper settings. There's a chart on Pinwiki I believe. If it worked in your game then the jumpers were correct. Did you check the amplifier and/or the speaker? Another thing to inspect are the header pins for cold or cracked solder joints and the connectors. Also the input voltages, IIRC 12V and 5V.

#294 4 years ago

Can somebody help me with a few FG things here? First is the ground wire by the strobe assy. When I tore down the machine, I don't remember where I disconnected it from. It seems to screw onto the strobe mounting plate which makes no sense because the mount is isolated from the board and the cab ground.

Second are the 4 lamps under Ming's face. The top 2 and the bottom 2 are controlled by the lamp driver. In test mode, they flash as they should. In attract, the top 2 stay lit and the bottom 2 do not light. Normal or short on driver?


#296 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

All four of mine are solid in attract and controlled in game.

I haven't stripped my backboard yet. Visually this is the only ground wire I see near the strobe and its part of the harness. Not sure that helps.

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Thanks for the pics! I guess the ground wire is a safety connection, as the wire color is the same as the cab grounds. So I'm not sure how the ming lamps are supposed to react. I was looking at some youtube FG vids in attract and in game play. Most have no Ming lamps lit in attract but when starting a game, they flash 3 or 4 times and then stay lit. I'm sure they flash when called for in game play depending on situation.
I'm also having an issue with the backbox switched lamps. In attract mode, the ball in play and the HSTD lamps are locked on. The game over lamp lights in unison with the HSTD score display change, which is what the HSTD lamp is supposed to do. I verified the connections at the lamp driver(J2) with all the backbox lamps and they all buzzed to the correct connections. Scratching head now.
All the lamps flash when in self test mode as they should. If there was a short somewhere, I would think that the lamps(s) in question would stay locked in test mode?
Also note I'm using brand new Alltek lamp drivers with the LED jumpers installed.
Finally the 7X lamp in the mini bonus area is strobing, but all the other LEDs are not.

#298 4 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

I finished up a respray today; it wont turn out to be a full restore like the beautiful machine F2k is doing, but im happy with it!

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Looks awesome, it's a ton of work isn't it?

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#299 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

All four of mine are solid in attract and controlled in game.

I haven't stripped my backboard yet. Visually this is the only ground wire I see near the strobe and its part of the harness. Not sure that helps.

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It looks like I'm getting this resolved. I decided to double check all the connectors associated with the lamp driver and I discovered a crossed connection from the lamp driver's J2 to the MPU J1 pins 16 and 17. Not sure if it was my mistake when re-pinning or if it was pre-existing as the game wasn't 100% before the resto. So after correcting the connectors, the backbox lamps are working as they should.
The ming lamps are not locked but do not light during attract mode. They do flash in test mode.

Now I have to sort out the strobe. In attract mode, isn't the strobe supposed to flash when "emperor of ming awaits" plays? Mine isn't. I installed a new Pinpoint strobe assy and it's doing weird things. At first it made some loud popping sounds and I found the lead from the strobe bulb was arcing to the pcb. The board makes a steady clicking sound when in self test but only flashes about every 8 seconds, not on every click.

3 weeks later
#300 4 years ago

Has anyone here installed red Xpin displays in their FG? Would it be too much red? Any pics?

#302 4 years ago

Thanks Chris,
I didn't find a pic of the displays lit, did you use red?

#305 4 years ago

Nice, I think I'll go with the red. Pinscore or Xpin, or are they one in the same?

#306 4 years ago

Has anyone that bought the Pinpoint strobe assy. have any trouble with it? Mine starting arcing almost as soon as I installed it. I sent it back for repairs and still waiting.

#308 4 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

My original strobe was dead so I used the Pinpoint strobe. It's been flawless since I installed it. Unfortunatly maybe you just scored a dud one, hopefully they get it sorted quickly or replaced soon.

Yes, He contacted me yesterday and stated that the flash tube was dead and he replaced it and is now testing it. Great customer service from them so far.

1 week later
#313 4 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Awesome work Rich, you have to be very happy with the results of your effort on this machine. It looks fantastic!

Thanks Adam! Yes I am.

#317 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Just picked this up today, a bit of a project. Was in a fire, but works even though all the boards are covered in soot. I need the harness that goes to the displays, as mine is melted and beyond repair. Thanks in advance!

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Wow what a project, it looks like the backglass survived?

1 week later
#347 4 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

ebay.com link » Vintage Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Machine Game Glass Sign 28 5x26 C 1980

I just saw that but he didn't put a reserve on it...

#349 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

What am I missing about this bg?

I don't have one right now to compare but I thought it was Kevin O'Connor's signature. But I think it's just a normal glass. Maybe the seller doesn't realize that most of the Bally back glasses are signed by the artist. he did cut the BIN price to $999. LOL I asked him to post more pics and he did.

#353 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Nope, they're all signed as part of the silkscreen.

That's what I figured. The seller is selling it on consignment and doesn't know pins all that well from what I gathered.

#354 4 years ago

After doing a complete high end resto on a FG, I shipped it to a customer 3000 miles away and the ball is getting stuck in front of the left side of the right spinner. I didn't play the game too much as I wanted it fresh as it could be when he received it. It got stuck there once while I played it but didn't think too much about it at the time. After comparing the left side with the right, we noticed a mini post was installed for the left spinner but not the right. I went back and checked the original PF and discovered that a mini post was there. I even marked it on the old pf as I usually do during swaps.

The buyer sent a pic of the right spinner and sure enough there was no hole in the pf for the post that should have been there. Looks like it was missed on this CPR pf. It's not a super big deal but a person spending huge money on a resto shouldn't have to deal with installing a mini post, especially the through hole type.

I'm putting this out there because usually a mistake that has been made on one pf, happens to all of them, maybe not but if anyone is doing an FG swap, look for this hole and make sure it's there. If anyone else has seen this I would like to know,thanks.

4 months later
#380 4 years ago
Quoted from cwg29:

After a few years of heavy searching I just picked up my very own FG. My seller at Firebird Pinball in Phoenix was very honest about it's condition. So they were very honest in pricing. Mechanically my game is playing fantastic. Cosmetically the game needs help. I am glad I found someone selling the stencil kit. I would love to find a new plastic set. I am working on my own restoration overlay for the playfield. Never 100% and I make my own artistic choices. I've replaced my "Flash" pinball machine with custom artwork with my own technique before plus have done two cpr playfield swaps.. Cabinet was hacked a little so I am glad I found someone selling the stencil kit. And after hanging on to a FG CPR backglass through a divorce and marriage I just might be able to bring this jewel inside to join my elite!

Congrats on the FG find. I did a full blown resto on one last year. There are some pics in this thread. Just some advice. Use Pinball Pimp stencils, stay away from Twisted pins. I used TP's and they were a nightmare. Repro plastics sets were made by CPR but they are scarce. I think I got mine from BAA. Hopefully you can find an original backglass. CPR has made some decent glasses but their FG and Centaur glasses missed the mark for me.

5 months later
#389 3 years ago
Quoted from jojo97222:

New FG owner here. Still chasing the gremlins out of my machine. Having very good luck so far, replaced 30 light sockets, bumper caps, targets, etc. My center saucer up post pop has worked since I got it however suddenly when the push the ball up going either direction, the post itself stays up until I touch it lightly or the bumpers produce enough vibration and they retract. I have taken the assembly apart but everything slides freely and the return springs seem about average. I checked the coils electrically and they are not receiving current after the initial pop up. If I push them manually up they don't seem to stick. The odd thing though is that they both started doing it at the same time a month after they were working fine. Any ideas? Also the up post that pushes the ball downward launches it to hard/high and it almost hits the bumper cap itself. I don't see any type of throw adjustment there. Any ideas? Thanks

It sounds like the coil stop may be magnetized. This happens sometimes with flippers. Or there may be a faulty driver transistor. Does this happen with up and down or one or the other? The up kicker is too strong? Make sure the correct coil is installed. Also make sure the entire saucer assy is installed the right way, It is possible that mech can be turned 180 degrees if it was ever removed. To verify, check the manual for the up coil number and down coil number to make sure. If you don't have the manual, I can check mine.

1 week later
#392 3 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Does Anyone have any experience with the NB II Board in Flash Gordon?
A friend of mine is having problems with his.

What is the NB II board?

#393 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

New drops arrived from Marco. Went OCD on them and applied Mylar to each face.


That's a smart move. I put a small piece of mylar under the sling shot plastics where they rest on that center screw head. They seem to wear the artwork off in that area.

#407 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Anyone know where I can get a spinner? My FG came with one missing and it currently has a Gottlieb/Devil's Dare spinner standing in...
Thanks in advance,

I have some left from my earlier FG resto. They are rough but can be painted and decal applied.
PM me your address and I'll send you one.

1 week later
#412 3 years ago

sweet, that single drop target is one heck of a contraption!

#415 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Congrats. I must say I'm totally loving Flash Gordon. I set all options to difficult and dialed everything in just right. It can be brutal at times, but that's what keeps me playing one more. Meanwhile my recent NIB IMVE is getting jealous ... right now it's about 10 Flash Gordon on play time.
Now only if I can get my strobe to work....

Marco sells replacement strobe lamps. There is also a repro strobe made by pinpoint electronics. I got one from K'arcade for $85. The strove gets it's power from the small transformer in the cab. You should get 115V there.

#419 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

BTW, An F2K is in my future. That's a fun pin I really need to add to my collection.

They made 6000 of them so it shouldn't be too difficult to find one,

3 years later
#930 61 days ago

I restored a FG in 2012 and sold it to Don Margolis who has since passed away. He sold it very quickly and I'm wondering where it is now. IIRC the serial number was 1047 and it has the sounds plus and vocalizer sound board set up. This coin door should jog someone's memory.

P7140918 (resized).JPGPA100971 (resized).JPG
3 weeks later
#976 39 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I wonder if the associated SCR is starting to go. But normally, when an SCR goes bad, the lamp doesn't light at all. I would look to see if the socket is getting grounded by a stray wire or something else. I would probably then start looking at the board, checking the header pin and connector, testing the SCR for that lamp. Maybe try putting in an incandescent bulb to see if it happens.

I have seen controlled lamps lock on as well due to bad scr. But only on ball 3 is weird. Try switching the game to a 5 ball game and see if it only happens on the 5th ball.

#977 38 days ago

Has anyone purchased the latest CPR FG glass? I'm wondering if it's better than the first run.

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