Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider epeabs.
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Joining this club. Bought a project that I will be picking up this week, which includes a spare 90% populated playfield. Although upon initial inspection, it looks like the playfield in the cabinet is in better shape. It is missing backglass, displays, and a board or two. Definately a project. I'll post some pictures when I pick it up.
Initial photos of the pin. Haven't done anything more than to pull it out of shrink and take a couple photos. Might be a fair amount of time before I even delve into it. It does have a brand-new squawk and talk soundboard for it. And brand new drop targets.
20180908_183012 (resized).jpg20180908_183017 (resized).jpg20180908_183021 (resized).jpg20180908_183030 (resized).jpg20180908_183054 (resized).jpg20180908_183239 (resized).jpgPicked this up several months ago and finally got around to getting it from my buddy's garage and into my basement. It needs a serious cleanup and lots of TLC. Comes with a spare playfield that I may hardtop. It needs a backglass and led displays since it has none. Just had the soundboard rebuilt and have to do some board work from acid damage. It will be somewhat of a long road, but hopefully well worth it in the end. Obviously needs paint and stencils as well but that may wait.
20181230_212430 (resized).jpg20181230_212458 (resized).jpg20181230_212441 (resized).jpg20181230_212502 (resized).jpg20181230_213956 (resized).jpg20181230_212446 (resized).jpg20181230_213939 (resized).jpg20181230_213945 (resized).jpg20181230_213308 (resized).jpg20181230_212515 (resized).jpg20181230_214009 (resized).jpgStarting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.
Can someone tell me why a previous owner would have made these modifications. Both slingshot assemblies have been moved about 3/8" towards the outside of the playfield. The right flipper assembly has been re-angled to approximately match the angle of the left flipper. It could be as simple as worn out mounting holes but I'm not sure yet.
FG right flipper mount moved (resized).jpgFG slingshots moved out (resized).jpgI'm going with the idea that one of the previous owners (or operators) (from the few tokens in the coins box, I believe this pin may have gone through Funworld in Nashua, NH) decided to remount instead of fixing the issue at hand. That said, I have drilled and doweled the blown out mounting holes. But, I am starting to think I should have used my "secondary" playfield to Hardtop. I am currently switching all the insert sockets from the "secondary" playfield to the "primary" due to major surface rust. But I'm thinking that my initial thought that that my "secondary" was worse than my "primary" may have not been the best choice. Oh well, too late now. Just keep rolling forward in the direction I am heading, can't go back. I have "doweled" the blown out slingshot and flipper mounts which would not have needed to be done on the "secondary" playfield. After flipper rebuilds and drop target rebuilds, we should be good to Hardtop.
20190120_132408 (resized).jpg20190120_195605 (resized).jpg20190122_191812 (resized).jpg20190122_191815 (resized).jpg20190122_191820 (resized).jpg20190122_191823 (resized).jpgQuoted from Captive_Ball:Making fast work of it....silver baby bat, interesting
I was having a hard time finding the replacement flipper for the upper playfield (several vendors where out of stock). So I went with the aluminum 2 inch. A tad short at the moment but we'll see how it works.
Quoted from FatPanda:Did you leave the bottom side populated when you stripped and sanded the topside? Does yours have cracked inserts and did you replace them?
I left the bottom 80% populated. I removed the drops The Flipper assemblies the slingshots. I also had a donor play field that I switched out the entire light sockets due to rust. In hindsight, I should have just used the other Playfield. But it's too late now. I also had to remount my flippers because they had been moved because of hogged out holes, and the slingshots with the same way. I replaced all of the clear inserts on the play field because they were all cracked and crazed and once the new ones were installed I buffed them all out instead of clearing.
Quoted from radium:I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.
I did not replace the opaque inserts as the crazing is not really noticeable. The clear inserts were horrible. When the new inserts come you have to sand them down flat because they are far from flat. Then you need to make the decision to sand, then clear, or sand up until about 2000 grit then polish. I went the polish route because I did not want the clear to accent any crazing that was there. I will say the inserts don't have much crazing to them and are pretty clear. PinballLife had a great assortment of inserts available. I did need to substitute a couple starburst style due to quantity available, and I chose a few "jewel" versions to break it up.
Quoted from rack-em-up:Looks great! Any problems putting the new star rollover targets in?
No problems grinding out the star rollover holes. Installation was straight forward. The only issue I ran into was that the hardtop adds height to the star rollover insert hole. So the insert wants to sink lower into the hole. I was able to keep a few level with the surface, but a few of them ended up lower. I am hoping they don't affect gameplay.
Quoted from Skypilot:I use a 2 part epoxy to glue them in. I then place the playfield on its edge and prop it up until dry.This keeps the roll-overs from moving. When appling the adhesive I'm very careful to brush it into the hole just below the top so as not to have it hit the finished surface.
Ah. I should have flipped it up on the rotisserie and cured my issue. The only way I could fix it now would be to bust out all the inserts and redo them.
Making some headway. Playfield is installed in the cabinet with new CPR plastics and Reese Rails and 2pac cleared shooter lane. Initially fired it up with the new NVRAM.WEEBLY mpu. My GI is currently not working, 90% of my inserts are, and backbox lights probably 40%. I did install all LEDs, but have not installed Comet's "Bally/Stern LED adapters" which may be a possible problem. It seems to want to credit a game, but doesn't kick ball to shooter lane, and flippers don't work. I haven't had time to delve into troubleshooting it yet. A CPR repro backglass "non mirrored" is on order. I will have to re-stencil and paint the cabinet come spring when it is warmer because it looks horrible compared to the playfield.
20190223_204756 (resized).jpgQuoted from zahner:That looks great. I did a standard cabinet repaint on mine, and it made a world of difference.
Want to see a ridiculously amazing cabinet paint job someone did, go to
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-flash-gordon-restoration-and-customization/page/4?gallery#g
Thank you. I have followed that "custom" thread. Incredible work and gorgeous.
Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
20190301_173932 (resized).jpgQuoted from FatPanda:There's a way to set up a breaker so that you're not blowing through fuses so quickly (pun intended). You'll have to look up what to get and how to set it up, but would be worth the effort to help troubleshoot.
I'll have to research that option. Thx
Quoted from tktlwyr:F5 is the fuse for your general illumination bus. Although it also touches other connectors, you said it doesn’t blow when you unplug the playfield. This should be connector J1. Pins J1-1 and J1-4 go to the general illumination bus.
It could be a bad bulb, bad socket or a socket shorting on something else. If it blows when you hit the flippers, it’s probably shorting on something else.
Here’s the short that was plagueing the previous owner of my machine. The power distribution wire ran between a G.I. socket and a controlled lamp socket that were too close and the wire was not protected with shrink tube. Every time the game booted, the fuse would blow. [quoted image]
I don't want to speak too soon, but I may have found my demon. I was scrutinizing the underside of the playfield and found several switches that the solder connections had been bumped and were close to touching. I have replaced the F5 fuse and so far, it has not blown while playing several games. I have GI, sound, and all inserts. I have to tweak my rollovers as I don't think they are working at the moment. I also realized I placed my flipper wire connections at the coil stop end, because that is how I removed them. So that will be another project. It looks like you bought that beautiful FG in Florida a couple months back. Congratulations @tktlwyer.
I just reassembled my top side after a hard top installation. The brass studs are used where there is a clear plastic below the silk-screened Plastics. Behind the three Bank drop Targets on the upper Playfield and on the right side of the upper Playfield behind the two-star rollovers. The other two I believe are under the try the wood Beast plastic. You should have some gray plastic Half Inch spacers that go on top of the clear plastic piece.
20190218_221745 (resized).jpg20190221_223716 (resized).jpg20190222_063301 (resized).jpgQuoted from Fytr:I'm putting a project PF back together for a game I traded for, so I don't have much documentation on what the PF looked like before it was stripped to have an overlay installed.
Was wondering if anyone can let me know where the brass "plastic holder" type screws are supposed to go vs. the silver ones, or are they interchangeable? Also, are the screws (2 shown in the centre below) without threads near the heads for the rails?[quoted image]
Couple more pictures. And I think your middle screws are for rails.
20190305_180210 (resized).jpg20190305_180219 (resized).jpgQuoted from blowback1976:Where'd you get the 2" silver flipper? Looks good and thinking about do that to mine, since I'm in the process of doing a hardtop as well.
PinballLife. It is billet aluminum. Seems to work fine. I haven't played another FG to know if there is a difference.
Working through a couple small issues with my FG. All my GI is working with the exception of these four bulbs. They flash on upon startup, but then they all go out at the same time. When I check voltage compared to other GI, all four read differently than anything else. Any thoughts is far as a direction to troubleshoot?
20190312_094413 (resized).jpgQuoted from blowback1976:Are those the ones under the Ming plastics? If so, they only light up during certain times during play. That's why they turn on when first powered up. You should also see them cycle during attract.
Yes. They are the ones under the Ming plastic. I'll have to see what they do during attract mode. But when the game initially boots up they come on and then they go off.
The Ming lights are fine. But working through a couple other small electrical gremlins. With the machine sitting in attract mode, if you trigger the switch for the saucer, the solenoid will engage. The other strange occurrence is the single drop target in the upper playfield, again while in attract mode, manually dropping the target has sometimes credited a game. Also once a game has been credited, sometimes hitting the right flipper will score 10000 points and create sound. I've traced wires under the playfield, but so far, have not found any that are crossed or touching or chafed. Not quite sure of a direction to troubleshoot in after looking at wires.
Quoted from FatPanda:Check your switches. If you're getting a credit, I would suspect the credit switches in the coin door may not be adjusted correctly. If you're getting points, there's a switch that is gapped too closely and the vibrations are causing the switch to make contact.
I keep checking switches and readjusting if I find something that looks like its too close. So I must be overlooking something switch wise. I need to pull the door all apart and clean everything and I want to rebuild the coil there is well.
Quoted from flynnibus:you are aware there are diagnostics in the game right? You should be using the lights, coils, and switch tests for your last few posts. Look at the menu in the manual to see how using the diagnostics button cycles through tests and then adjustments and audits.
Sounds like you could have some switch matrix issues.. shorts or diode issues.
Yes. During switch test. I'm not finding any stuck switches, which is why I'm a bit perplexed.
Quoted from flynnibus:because you're describing not stuck switches, but issues with multiple switches triggering when one or more switches are tripped. This is classic switch matrix issues due to diode issues.
https://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting
Bally games have the extra fun that some switches have the small capacitors that can fail and will act as a short as well. People snip one leg when they think that is the problem.. but that normally shows as a stuck switch when its the capacitor.
@flynnibus. Thank you. That may explain some of my symptoms. Should I start testing diodes with the switches I've had issues with? All of the small capacitors are connected currently . And again, I'm not showing stuck switches in switch tests. Every pin I play with, I seem to learn something new as far as testing, troubleshooting, Etc.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:When the game is playing, do you get any false firing of pop bumpers or slings?
No. No false firings.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Do any of the switches have the original old caps on them? They are usually green.
I found one switch with a green. Everything else is red.
Not to speak too soon, but I may have found my phantom switch issue. I had a game started and I opened the coin door. When I closed it, it started scoring and making sounds. Kept trying it and it kept doing the same. Upon further inspection, my left coin chute was contacting the kickout switch. I tweaked the switch contacts a bit and have played several games without any further issues. I will play it some more to see if anything else acts up.
FG is coming along great. Seems to be playing well and since I found the coin chute touching the kickout switch, no issues with phantom scoring. I do have one insert bulb out. The Super Bonus 100000 ring of lights, the #7 bulb is not working. I have replaced with a new socket but it is still not working. I can jump it with a test lead from another bulb and it works fine. Nothing is screaming incorrect. The other issue is the coil on the coin door is very noisy and vibrates a fair amount. Almost like the bar that runs from it through the coin mechs needs some sort of cushion. Aside from those issues and needing to refinish the faded cabinet, it is pretty much "there".
Quoted from rack-em-up:I bought a hardtop the day after I got my FG. My playfield is really not that bad except for some planking but I figured the hardtop would be a good option for the future. In the meantime I'm just enjoying playing the game.
I looks to me that "hogging out" the holes for the rollovers could be kind of tedious. I decided to get a little practice with some Lexan I bought on Amazon. I bored some 1.25" holes in the plywood and some .75" holes in the Lexan then glued the Lexan over the plywood. After a couple tries I think I got the hang of it.
Here's a couple pictures:
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It's really very easy. I used my Dremel tool and a sandpaper drum like yours and it took no time at all and I had no issues. Just take your time and don't rush.
Quoted from BRW84:I'm in the process of hardtopping my Flash Gordon and I'd been trying to figure out how I was going to address this issue. Did you have any issues with the edges being rough, or did the Dremel/sandpaper drum method smooth it out pretty well?
No issues. They came out nice and smooth. Just a note about install. Once you epoxy in place, tilt the playfield on its side so the inserts dont settle below the hardtop surface as the epoxy dries. I did have a couple of mine sink below the surface a tad.
Quoted from Fytr:Can someone please post a pic showing how the spring is connected to the single drop down target assembly?
Mine is missing and I can't seem to figure it out.
Hopefully this picture will help
20190406_135052 (resized).jpgQuoted from BJM-Maxx:Anyone have this problem? I replaced all coil sleeves and cleaned all mechanisms on my Flash Gordon. Now the saucer lobs the ball into the glass when throwing it onto the upper playfield. It does not hit hard and the game plays fine but I cannot see a nice way to reduce the saucer power. This was part of a long restore so the dirty coil sleeves are long gone.
Not sure of a fix, but mine is doing the same thing after installing new coil sleeves all around, and a thorough cleaning.
Quoted from Stretch7:I used a Yellow on mine and like it.
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I picked up a gold metallic Rust-Oleum I'm going to try for mine and see what it looks like. The yellow I had picked up seemed way too bright.
Quoted from FatPanda:For you guys painting cabs...what playfield restoration did you go with. Hardtop? CPR? NOS? None?
I went with the Hardtop for mine. After I installed the hardtop, I had no choice but to redo the cab, since it looked so horrible compared to the Hardtop.
Quoted from MrBellMan:I just finished refurbing my Flash Gordon. Changed the color scheme and concentrated on the red and black. All black rubber, bumper skirts, flipper bats, etc...
It looks fantastic and is now even tougher since all three new flipper bats are smaller than the originals that came with the game. Not much smaller, but they are and it makes a big difference!
All incandescence bulbs!
Rob
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Looks sharp!
Just did the gold stenciling tonight. I'm always my hardest critic, and it looks great from 10 feet away. But I'm not blown away by my cabinet prep. But it is a huge Improvement from where it was in lovely pink. I used Rust-Oleum Regal Red, Rust-Oleum gloss black and Rust-Oleum Specialty Metallic.
20190320_212540 (resized).jpg20190412_205143 (resized).jpg20190412_212223 (resized).jpg20190412_212317 (resized).jpg20190412_212345 (resized).jpg15551194421806855418742683635921 (resized).jpgQuoted from Fytr:Does anybody know if the targets on this era of Bally games ever used backing foam?
Finishing up my FG restore and none of my stand-up targets have foam behind them. Wondering if I should add it or if it it's considered "as intended" without it?
Mine didn't and doesn't have foam behind the drops.
After doing the cabinet, I pulled the transformer, power module, the mounting plate, Etc all out of the machine and cleaned everything up and repainted it. I reinstalled everything and just installed the playfield this afternoon and the back box panel light panel. Plug the machine in and turn it on, and I get absolutely nothing. I've checked every fuse in the machine, made sure all the connectors are connected. I have power all the way through the switch up to the connector right before the transformer. Any ideas?
15556203235144029140293872616439 (resized).jpg20190418_163953 (resized).jpgQuoted from BJM-Maxx:Do the rectifier board voltages all look correct?
I just did a coloured transformer plate myself. Make sure you have solid continuity between the plate and the cabinet braid and the brackets to the plate.
I've checked continuity between braid and plate as well as between brackets and ground, and I have continuity all around. But I just checked test point voltages and I have no voltage at any of them. I can't imagine that the transformer would die just by pulling it out and painting it with high heat paint and reinstalling.
Quoted from mjalexan:I would say keep following the path for voltage. Something I haven't seen before, those metal posts on the rectifier board. Could they be shorting traces?
I have already removed the metal posts to rule them out because I was thinking the same thing. Gonna remove the transformer and see if I can see if anything is loose or shorted. Everything worked great prior to removing the playfield, boards, and "power plate" to do the cabinet painting. I did install the metal posts since two out of the three plastic snap in plastic mounts were broken. But again, I have since removed them and it still doesn't work.
Quoted from mjalexan:Did you check continuity at the fuse holde (1)r? No AC voltages at the rectifier inputs (2)?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I do have continuity at the fuse (1). As far as testing for voltage after the transformer, will any of the wires coming out of the transformer have voltage if its present, or am I testing specific wires?
Quoted from kguenther6:Start at the wall. Is it plugged in? Do you have power at that outlet? Then check the main fuse with the black cap. Make sure the fuse is good and the cap is seated good. Then check to make sure you have power going into the transformer. Then verify you have power coming out of the transformer. Keep following the chain and see where the power stops. But start at the wall and make sure you are getting power there and then work your way down the chain.
Thanks to all. FG lives. It turns out that the connector next to the fuse prior to the transformer had one pin that had slid out a bit unnoticed. I pushed it back in and it fired right up. As usual, most problems don't tend to be deep, they tend to be simple and right in front of your face.
Quoted from Tsskinne:It’s alive!
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That looks beautiful. It looks very similar to mine with the Hardtop and the translucent rubbers and red flippers.
20190420_194208 (resized).jpgAs mentioned before, my saucer was also hitting the glass kicking it to the upper playfield. I have no comparison prior to cleaning and new coil sleeves, but after that it definitely did. I tried numerous "fixes". But the one that ultimately worked was taking a spare saucer plunger, and TIG welding about an eighth of an inch to the tip and grinding it back down the best I could with a bench grinder and then sanding it smoother. It now no longer hits the glass yet pops up perfectly into the upper playfield. Probably not the best method, but it did work great
20190430_215104 (resized).jpgQuoted from Nokoro:Very happy to have finally joined the club. I picked up this beautifully refurbished copy yesterday. It needs a few adjustments, which I will probably solicit some help with a little later, but for now I'm enjoying playing it. It is a brutally hard game!
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It looks great in your basement Mark. Enjoy!!!! 
Quoted from DK:Anyone have this plastic for sale? I need one for mine. Thanks![quoted image]
One of these?
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Auburn, NH
Toronto, ON