(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago

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  • 1,021 posts
  • 172 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by solderboy
  • Topic is favorited by 93 Pinsiders


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#644 1 year ago

So picked up a FG project a few weeks ago, and starting to replace the drop targets as there are several broken & mismatched. Picked up the 11 piece FG drop target set from Marco, and noticed that they were not all identical. 3 of the 11 have a small lip at the top rear of the target. The other 8 do not have this lip. (see picture)

As I have a smorgasbord of mismatched and broken targets on the machine so I can't really tell what was originally where from the factory, and the manual doesn't show any specifics. Does anyone know where are the 3 rear lip targets supposed to go to a specific place on the playfield?

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#647 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Sadly, do to quality control... the "Bally" drop targets are being made with a lot of variances.
All of Flash Gordon's drop targets, from that time period, are all fully double lipped.

You would think a set from one quality distributor would be consistent.....sigh......

Quoted from pingod:

I believe those three are for your X targets,so the ball can roll over them.

Alright, thought about the 3 inline targets myself, will put them there, even if the inline on the upper playfield will then be without a rear lip.

#648 1 year ago

Drop target update: emailed with Marco this morning, and they are sending me 8 replacements with the top rear ribs free of charge so that I have a complete set. According to them it's a supplier issue and didn't get noticed.....kudos to Marcos!!

3 months later
#664 8 months ago

Looking at the wallered out holes next to the slingshots & flipper plate that is exactly why they moved them, easier and quicker for a field tech to repair that way than the right way......

1 month later
#741 7 months ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

Finally finished the hardtop install, now just putting everything back together after 2 years of being torn apart. The clear inserts look awesome with the hardtop
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting this pic, it looks fantastic! Love the clear inserts and may head that way as well!! Would you mind sharing your shopping list of inserts and who you got them from?

#745 7 months ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

I got the rollover housings and insert buttons from Marco specialties #03-7538-13, 03-7537-05. All other inserts were from pinballlife: I couldn’t find the correct size arrows in clear so I reused the all the origional arrow inserts from the game. I don’t remember the exact quantity’s I used. I know I ordered extras on most of those inserts so I can’t recall what the game actually takes of each
[quoted image]

Quoted from Andyzola87:

This should help. Looks like 33 of the 3/4”, 14 of the 1” and 7 of the star rollovers and inserts, according to my Instagram pic from when I did it.
[quoted image]

Awesome!!!! Thanks for the info!!!

3 weeks later
#776 6 months ago
Quoted from Stretch7:

I used a Yellow on mine and like it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tsskinne:

This is just the test spray of the gold I am going with. If the weather was cooperating I planned to do it today but looking like that isn't going to be the case. [quoted image]

May I ask a favor and let us know what paint and color you are using?? It makes it easier for those who will be doing restorations in the future to be able to recreate a certain look.....Thanks!

2 months later
#902 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Wow, do most people really set it to "Conservative"? That's brutal. I assumed that might possibly be the case for tournaments, but the manual says that "Liberal" is the recommended setting for all switches when on 3-ball.[quoted image]

Maybe because that's the way some of us remembering playing Flash Gordon when it was on location in the '80s.....it was a mean playing SOB!

2 months later
#970 42 days ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

Boards are fine. NVRAM/LED is a non-issue for price for me. Flippers rebuilt (again, $50?). Backglass is good, cabinet is good. Legs are legs.
Less playfield wear than normal. Some at kickout, some at upper playfield. Less than a ton of the games picture in this thread. For examle, lower playfield by flippers is good.
So what would a decent range be? I just don't know if this game is increasing at the same rate as everything else and leaving Pinside pricing in the dust.

I've seen that description priced anywhere from $1800 to $2800, depending on location....

4 weeks later
#1003 11 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I'm chasing two problems with my new game and am wondering if you can help.
The first involves the right flipper. When it is energized and the ball hits it, it dips ever so slightly. I have heard that this can be a problem with the EOS switch, so I took a look. My left flipper has a normal looking EOS switch. My right flipper (the one with the issue) has a strange looking one. It has two contacts and almost looks like a flipper button switch that controls both an upper and lower flipper. I wonder if those two switches got swapped. Here is a picture of the normal left one followed by the weird right one.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Can someone tell me if their right flipper EOS switch looks like this or if it looks more like my left one? If you can post a picture of your right one that shows the wiring, that would be great! Also, does your right flipper button have two contacts so that if you press it a little, it engages the lower flipper but not the other, and if you press it more, it engages both? Mine doesn't do that, so I'm wondering if things got switched around (no pun intended).
My second issue involves one of the upper drop targets. When it resets, at times, it goes up a little too far and doesn't go back down unless I take the glass off and manipulate it back down. I traced the problem to the linking arm on the drop target assembly -- that metal thing that has an elbow that hits the switches. When it goes up a bit too far, the elbow slides out of the slot in the back panel, and the whole target gets stuck in the up position. I've had this issue with another machine, and the cause there was a metal bracket that had a slot in it which broke. But, this assembly doesn't seem to have the same metal brackets. Any ideas on how to fix this? My two ideas are to somehow attach something to the sides of the slot in the metal plate to prevent the elbow from slipping out, but I'm not sure how to do that. Or, to drop something into the plunger coil so it doesn't move quite so high up when it resets the drop targets. The trick there would be to get it to move high enough that it can adequately reset them but not so high that the elbow slips out of the slot.
All help is very much appreciated! Thanks!

Your right flipper EOS switch on a FG has an energization switch in place for the upper flipper. Instead of putting two flipper switches on the right side of the cabinet Bally put one on the flipper button to energize the lower flipper, and then the other flipper switch was stacked onto the EOS switch to engage the upper flipper mech.

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