Does the playfield multiplier combine with bonus multiplier when you collect bonus at the shooter lane? I saw elsewhere that a 25x collect is possible but I'm not sure.
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Does the playfield multiplier combine with bonus multiplier when you collect bonus at the shooter lane? I saw elsewhere that a 25x collect is possible but I'm not sure.
My single drop target in front of the bonus collect lane won't reset once it drops. Can I assume that's a solenoid issue?
Yeah, never. It stays until the plunge if I set it up manually but never returns as it should. The leafs switch and solder joints all look normal. Thanks for the info. Will check it out.
I've had a persistent problem with my single standup. When the leaf switch closes, it just keeps firing off contacts/points again and again. Bonus cannot be collected either. Presumably when the target drops the leaf switch should score once then shut off. I can't figure out why this is happening. The leaf switch of the bottom-most rollover in the upper right playfield seems not to be connecting...is this critical to the drop target's logic?
Quoted from Nokoro:Is it gapped correctly? Pressing together and staying together when the target is dropped? Or is it just barely making contact?
Also, perhaps try cleaning the contacts. Put a business card between them, press them shut and gently pull the card out. Do that a few times.
I think I got that sorted out and the drop seems to be working as expected it's not lighting the bonus collect and I can't figure out why.
Quoted from jespo_19:i know this is the "club" but anyone selling one?
Have been considering doing so
New to flipper rebuilding. What are the various ways you might know it's needed for this machine? What flipper issues have you encountered?
I replaced the bottom left flipper on my game, and noticed that it looked bigger than the one on the right (which seemed stuck to the point of my being unable to pry it out). The resulting space between the ball guide is smaller, so much so that the metal digs into the rubber at the top of the flip and the flipper gets stuck in place frequently. I thought I got the right parts from Marco. Advice?
IMG_20200601_190936028 (resized).jpgQuoted from FatPanda:The right side is the wrong flipper style. That's a WMS style flipper bat . The one on the left is correct.
I would try to readjust the lane guides. They might have been moved closer to compensate for the wrong flippers.
That was my impression. The irony is that the right one plays great. I looked to see if I could adjust the lane guide (you're right it may have been adjusted), but it's not clear to me how I'd go about doing that.
I don't think I'll try to adjust. I'll take a look at the Cliffy guides and probably just order a new set. It looks like the alignment of my left one is off (probably from years of being hit by the ball), so it's probably easiest to just replace. This game had a lot of wear on it when I got it, and I've been slowly updating parts.
Quoted from FatPanda:They look very rough and like you said, probably better off replacing the lane guides anyway. The Cliffy lane guides are a little bit longer than the factory guides, so you may end up with the same issue and might have to make some adjustments anyway.
Simple adjustments just require loosening up the 2 screws holding the lane guide in place and moving the lane guide as needed.
Also, having the Williams style bats makes me suspicious of the flipper mechs as well. Have they been swapped out?
I just rebuilt that entire flipper because it was both getting stuck and wouldn't hold when cradling, so all the flipper mechs are now rock solid. I can actually see an area on the rubber where the lane guide has been eating into it. How exactly do you adjust the lane guide? There seems no way to move it. There's simply a single hole each lane guide post is screwed to. No way to move up/down or laterally (a la post adjustment on modern games).
Thanks!
Quoted from FatPanda:You can only move the lane guides as much as loosening the screw allows you to move it. 1/16-3/16 of an inch at most. Did you move the flipper plate at all? Just looking at it, it seems to be really tight to the lane guide.
When you get the new cliffy guides, you have an opportunity to enlarge the holes on the guide to allow a little bit of sliding up and down, as yelobird mentioned doing. The other, less invasive option, is to try Titan thin flipper rubber. I have them on my game since I get a little bit of flipper hop when the ball comes down in the inlanes. They're called "low bounce standard" now.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
I didn't realize moving the flipper plate was possible. Will give that a try. Thanks.
So I was able to move the lane guide ever so slightly and now the rubber doesn't touch it at all...but the flipper still sticks. Interestingly, if I have the playfield lifted up to about 45 degrees, it moves just fine, but if it's at the normal pitch or about that, I can feel it clicking into its stuck position. The bushings were freshly replaced as part of a flipper rebuild kit. Not sure what else to do. Maybe try rotating the bushing?
Unrelated, I think the switch on the single stand-up in front of the bonus collect shot needs to be replaced. I've tinkered with it to no end but it keeps reverting to auto-firing when the machine is bumped in the slightest. Which is the proper one to order? How hard is it to replace one of these?
Quoted from Nokoro:Isn’t that switch just for scoring? When you say it autofires, do you mean it drops when it shouldn’t or it raises when it shouldn’t?
once it's dropped, it keeps making the blasting sound and awarding 10k points with the slightest agitation of the machine (flipping, nudging etc). annoying from a sound standpoint, but also totally screws up accurate scoring. i have done my best to clean the contact and to reposition the blades on the switch.
Quoted from Nokoro:So it only does that when it is dropped, not up? If so, then it does sound like a problem with how the leaf switch is gapped. I suppose it could be the contacts as well if they aren’t clean. I guess from your original post you’re at the end of your wits trying to clean and position it correctly, so maybe starting with a new switch will do the trick.
Yeah, only does it when down. I cleaned and repositioned it awhile back and the issue resolved for a few weeks. There's quite a bit of wear and some rust (apparently) which I can only do so much about. It seems likes it's easy for it to contact and then gap by a fraction of an inch of movement, thus leading to this problem. It just looks like replacing switches is a bit more tedious work than I'm used to doing (I have less experience with the electrical stuff), so I was curious for people's take on working on these things.
Quoted from Nokoro:It’s pretty easy to do. Just need to know how to solder. My recollection is that that switch is in an easily accessible place, so I don’t think you need to remove anything except for the switch itself. Just remember to use a heat sink on the diode when desoldering and resoldering it so you don’t damage it. And keep track of the direction it faces so you don’t cause other problems.
What's a heat sink and how does it work? And yes the switch is easy to get at. Comfortable soldering. How does one de-solder? I assumed I'd just be cutting something.
Interesting! Thanks guys! I'm finally wading into the nitty gritty of pinball repair...a 40 year-old machine will do that.
Can you accumulate bonus beyond what's displayed on the playfield (the circle that counts up to 10)?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:It actually counts up to 19 if you watch it.
This is why I ask. I could swear I'd gotten payout above what I thought I saw indicated on the playfield. I ask because obviously if you can't crank it higher, you should be aiming to cash it in (with multipliers as much as possible).
So max reward.may be 475,000 points. That's badass. And since you'd usually be ripping it through the right spinner at 5x, it's really over a half million for the one shot.
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