Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Tsskinne.
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Been working with mjalexan on getting my game ready for the hardtop and cabinet restoration. Been documenting it via Instagram mostly.
Cleared it with SprayMax 2k after getting it all sanded and prepped. Looking forward to laying the hardtop itself down on it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvAdH9OFBWb/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvBrQEwFb9L/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvFPqGrlvEu/
Anyone out there have a CPR Flash Gordon mirrored backglass? The one currently in my game looks okay but then you get close and realize Sam Jones has leprosy or something as it is delaminated in the back in a really weird way.
Anyway since we are doing the hardtop and restoring the cabinet I figured it may be nice to make the glass look great again as well.
Did some painting today!
2C3D1532-5567-42F2-BA69-B622918BC30B (resized).jpeg4D2309D2-A543-4B94-8CC0-F7B77AA1C5E3 (resized).jpeg7C5C40E2-15AE-47CE-A351-1EB62606F0E8 (resized).jpegA27CCA2E-35FF-4F85-BD1E-610F2FF9A34E (resized).jpegABDEE1A0-F674-4913-819E-BA6873070889 (resized).jpegB525A4B3-9070-44E6-8E14-A2054A19EA9F (resized).jpegDDE2FE8B-6A3C-4444-9EBE-D0F70021DAD6 (resized).jpegQuoted from jj44114:I'm hoping someone can come up with a rattle can version of the yellow/gold color that matches the original. I could never find one.
Check Molotow colors out. I’m using they Gold Dollar for a more metallic look, but they have a ton of variety
Quoted from FatPanda:For you guys painting cabs...what playfield restoration did you go with. Hardtop? CPR? NOS? None?
Hardtop for me. It was way-way-way cheaper than tracking down one of the rare CPR playfields at this point, and didn't require as much work as a full swap in my mind.
Quoted from FatPanda:Damn! That sucks!
No joke. Thankfully I only did the head and not the lower body. The gloss finish may be the issue. I sanded the exposed black paint on the other side quickly with some 2000 grit and it seemed to help. I'm painting a test board now that I will try sanding with a grittier paper and see how that works out before I move on to the body or switch brands of paint.
Just sad because I love the way this gold looks.
That’s the second side with the sanding. I also sprayed inside the head where I already had black gloss since it will be covered with metal anyway, no reaction there either. I’m guessing it’s the gloss smoothness that gives the gold nothing to adhere to. Will post results of the test board in coming days.
From a few feet away I think you can see how great the gold looks though.
A8F15A5E-E082-4241-8439-C1AC543551D6 (resized).jpeg83738E33-5581-4A8F-9544-0B9EA157B056 (resized).jpeg
So sprayed this board with primer, and then black gloss (I sanded the board smooth first). Let dry for 4 hours and then sanded the far end of the board, and didn’t sand the other part to spray gold over it thinking I would have just recreated my head paint issue. Nope all gold looks fine. WTF! Any ideas?
002E9E14-57FD-48C7-A570-1FA9714FFD07 (resized).jpeg806FB0EC-0C4B-4BEA-9966-4A6526A14BA4 (resized).jpegQuoted from TaylorVA:Gloss paint can take a while to cure. Top layer drying quicker can cause crackling. Any humidity?
On the actual cabinet I painted the black gloss 5 days ago. Hasn’t really been humid here yet. The test board only had a few hours of drying before I sprayed the gold on, but I don’t think that would work on cabinet because I think the stencil would pull the paint.
So I replaced my backglass with one of the brand new CPR backglass, fully mirrored version. It looks great, but the displays don't quite line up with the display windows now.
Also I know the CPR art is correct, but my original has no art where the strobe light is so it was even extra brite. Am I correct in assuming this was one of the early production backglasses? I don't have the squawk and talk board either I have the other two in the head.
Quoted from Spraynard:Upkicker coil reading at 14 Ohms. According to this table (https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html), that is normal for an AO-27-1300 coil.
The tip of the arm itself is not deformed in any way.
Are you giving your machines steroids for a competitive advantage? JK, no clue what your problem is, hope it is resolved soon.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:My old Blackjack with the patched/updated code was at the PATZ show. Got to try a Flash Gordon there and would really like to find even a project game (complete or not) to restore and tweak the code. Have some ideas for updates like Multiball. If it works out I want to do it in a way that is easy to replicate and undo if anyone wants a stock machine. I'm currently working on Elektra and need to see how much carries over to the other machines.
I would love it if this game could be made into a multiball. The thought had crossed my mind as basically making it so that if you light a playfield multiplier the saucer now serves as a lock and a second ball ejects, saucer kicks out when the other ball hits a switch on the playfield after the shooter lane switch. Keep the playfield multiplier running now until a ball drains instead of the original 15 seconds.
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Houston, TX