(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider BigAl56.
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#1098 4 years ago
Quoted from slghokie:

Just joined the club. Got some work to do. But Emperor Ming awaits![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Try the Wood Beast.

5 months later
#1252 3 years ago

Now that's a project! Installing the newer PS must have been a lot of work.

1 year later
#1926 1 year ago

It's not uncommon for the pots on the board to get dirty. If cranking the door volume does little, crank the pots on the S&T board back and forth a few times to clean them.

2 months later
#2009 1 year ago

Bally Linear flippers and slings were considered an inferior upgrade per many pinball purists. That is why so many linear flipper games are found converted to classic flipper assemblies. The great Desi D' Percel created the linear designs and could talk your ear off explaining why they were superior. He always blamed the failure of linear components on inferior material substitutions by the purchasing department.

Bally 198x_0005 (resized).jpgBally 198x_0005 (resized).jpg
5 months later
#2120 1 year ago

Top outside switch appears upside down and incorrect. Contacts should point towards each other nor do they look like proper high current contacts. That needs to be replaced with the correct switch.

2 weeks later
#2135 1 year ago
Quoted from digitaldocc:

Does anyone make a power tap splitter for FG? Looking for a nice way to snag 5v DC and or 12v DC for some mod ideas I have kicking around?

Tap or T splices are a great clean way to tap into existing wires in the cable. They are readily available on eBay.

1 month later
#2174 1 year ago

Metal sleeves were the norm for high use coils until the early 70s when Bally and most others began using Duralon coil sleeves which were heat tolerant and self lubricating. FG should never had metal sleaves. Your game is probably the product of an overzealous restoration.

3 months later
#2334 9 months ago

While not a true pinball I found Baby Pac Man to be unplayable.

1 week later
#2353 9 months ago

Most bally single-ball games of that era will kick out the ball on the initial start. So at least you know the outhole kicker is working. The ball drained and I assume nothing happened after that, no bonus or other outhole actions. So that implies the outhole switch is your problem. Put the game in switch test and go through all the switches on the playfield and make sure they each register with the proper number. I'm guessing the outhole will not.

#2362 9 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

The battery is not on the board and there appears to be a wire lead coming off

Those wires should go to a remote battery pack. If the game is a keeper lose the wires and install an NVRAM.

1 week later
#2392 8 months ago
Quoted from digitaldocc:

What do people do for better sound on FG? Now that I have good music from the S & T Replacement Sound Board I want some good speakers and bass.

Pickup a nice automotive 8ohm speaker. Much better than the tinny factory speaker.

1 week later
#2412 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Something strange is happening and it now gives me two balls for ball 1.

Is that what it is doing, awarding a free ball? Possible the game is set to free ball mode instead of replay and the replay score level is set low so you are winning a free ball right away.

#2417 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I was trying to award a replay credit at a low score since the MPU doesn't have a free play setting

Back in the day, home pinball collecting was just getting started. I pushed the powers that be to add a freeplay setting to the core code. I was constantly rebuffed. Excuses ranged from, "We only make coin operated games", to, "Operators [our customers] don't want the competition from home games".

11
#2424 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

BigAl56, did you work for Bally, Williams, or Stern back in the day? If so, very cool. What did you do there?

I was the Bally R&D lab supervisor from 76 - 84. I started as a lab tech and was eventually promoted to supervisor. All those early Ballys are my babies.

#2425 8 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

digit out on the player 2 display.

Most common reason for a digit fail on a single display is a cold solder connection to the header pin or a burned 100K resistor in the digit drive circuit, the latter being real common as the original 1/4w resistors Bally used are not up to the load and burn out over time. Most good rebuild kits will include 1/2W resistors.
I like to set my display voltage at around 180v instead of the spec 190 to preserve the displays. Some like to go lower but IMHO that just puts more stress on other components.

17
#2429 8 months ago

Thanks everyone for your kind posts. Attached is my business card. Be sure to call Bally customer service with your complaints.
Unfortunately the factory has long been buried under a runway at O'hare so not sure who will answer.

Bally Card AR.pdfBally Card AR.pdf
1 week later
#2437 8 months ago

If you have a group of blown SCRs associated with lamps close together like a bonus circle, this is a common fail of changing bulbs with the power on as it's easy to short a couple of lamps together and the smaller 2N5060 can't handle that.

2 weeks later
#2449 7 months ago

Whole doors are hard to come by but if all you need is the outer skin see above.

2 months later
#2523 5 months ago

There is a flow diagram in the beginning of the manual that calls out the board modules and the 'A' designations. (a stands for for assembly). I argued to change it from military convention to more common usage, PS- Power Supply, C-Controller/MPU, SD-Solenoid Driver, etc. Rebuffed throughout the 6800 era they finally adopted my suggestions with the release of the 6803 series games.

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1 month later
#2600 4 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I need new speakers. What’s the deal with the ground braid down there?

Ever walk up to a pinball and feel a shock when you touch the cabinet rails? That's a sign something is improperly grounded. All exposed metal should be earth grounded for shock prevention. Although a remote possibility, Bally runs the earth ground braid to all metal parts. This protects you from shock if a power wire touches the frame of the game, or in this case, the metal shell of the speaker and it's mounting screws. The ground braid should make its way to the earth prong of the line cord.

1 month later
#2662 83 days ago

From what I can tell there is no HardTop available for Flash Gordon although I wish there was. You must be working with an overlay which is a completely different product.

#2666 82 days ago

Hardtops are only offered by Outside Edge and they do not list FG as one of their titles? Who else is making HardTops? Can somebody post a link?

#2668 82 days ago

Worder why OutsideEdge didn't keep it in the product line? Seems like a no brainer. Licensing issues I guess.
What I really needed was Skateball. My only option there is an expensive CPR reproduction.

#2680 79 days ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Al, this wire looks pretty hefty for a ground braid. Is this photo from their webpage accurate?

Not accurate. The link I posted is for 18awg wire that is the correct gauge. Wire in the pic is electrician grounding wire way too large for pinball use.

#2683 78 days ago

Tinned, stranded, uninsulated 18 wire. Perfect.
The Home depot wire I posted is untinned but you can drive over and pick it up.

1 week later
#2685 70 days ago

If the game was running otherwise, high score being flashed, attract mode light animation working, the pins on the MPU J3 need to be cleaned or replaced is my best guess. Next time this happens put the game in switch test and note if the credit button is registering when you press it.

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