(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

9 years ago


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There are 2,051 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 42.
#2001 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So, I'm confused because the flipper assembly you show is same as this one.... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ASE-1587-10X
but, this was only used up until 1980. Flash Gorgon is 1981? And not on the compatible game list?

Last game that used that style was Space Invaders. I changed my linear flippers to that style because I prefer them. Someone changed them in the pics you posted as well.

#2002 4 months ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Last game that used that style was Space Invaders. I changed my linear flippers to that style because I prefer them. Someone changed them in the pics you posted as well.

OK. I got it. The original Bally assemblies like this one pictured below are not available, so people either use the Bally type you used or the Stern type in my previous pic (both available from Pinball Life)?
Thanks.
e161126fe7b0aa7563ec95b21a68fee8d928fe1e (resized).jpg

#2003 4 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Flash Gordon is a fantastic variety pin because it is such a butt kicker. If I were to play the Hobbit, I'd need at least a 45 minute block just in case I had a really good game. If I am going to play Flash Gordon, I need a 5 minute block just in case I have a really great game. Skills like post passing are critical if you are going to get anywhere on Flash. It is a great "git gud" game.

Agreed. You needn’t worry about having that one great game that seems like it will never end and makes you late for that party you were going to go to. Even a great game is only a few minutes.

I used to think FG was absolutely brutal, but then I got Paragon and discovered the true nature of a drain monster. I now think FG is only ordinarily brutal.

#2004 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

OK. I got it. The original Bally assemblies like this one pictured below are not available, so people either use the Bally type you used or the Stern type in my previous pic (both available from Pinball Life)?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

If you want the OE linear flippers you can easily assemble a set. Just can't buy the whole assembly. Just get a rebuild kit from PBR.

http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/kt-bflip-04.jpg

Just re-use the coils and mounting brackets. You will need an additional EOS Form A switch to power the right upper flipper. Marco sells new mounting plates and switch brackets. You will need the bracket also the hold the nylon bushing. Didn't see new ones listed, but I several used ones to sell.

#2005 4 months ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

If you want the OE linear flippers you can easily assemble a set. Just can't buy the whole assembly. Just get a rebuild kit from PBR.
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/kt-bflip-04.jpg
Just re-use the coils and mounting brackets. You will need an additional EOS Form A switch to power the right upper flipper. Marco sells new mounting plates and switch brackets. You will need the bracket also the hold the nylon bushing. Didn't see new ones listed, but I several used ones to sell.

Thanks. But it's not necessary.

#2006 4 months ago

I was visiting today and my buddy has a Flash Gordon. I have one going through restoration so I was taking a close look at his.
A thought came to my mind as I was looking at the playfield...
There are at least two spots I can see where it would be possible to add a ball capture. Given the capture of the two balls, the game could be made into a three ball multiball game. Yes of course major/total software rebuild would be required, but I am seeing software being redone lately.

Has anyone had same thoughts? Has anyone done anything like that?

Fantastic!

#2007 4 months ago

Yes, someone added multiball to flash gordon a while ago although I don't remember what came out of it. They did it all with hardware.

Where else besides the center hole could you add multiball? Behind the inlines would require memory inlines to get the ball out.

#2008 4 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, someone added multiball to flash gordon a while ago although I don't remember what came out of it. They did it all with hardware.
Where else besides the center hole could you add multiball? Behind the inlines would require memory inlines to get the ball out.

You could work in the inline drops as physical ball locls a couple of different ways by my estimation. Some with some hardware and woodwork and others with code.

#2009 4 months ago

Bally Linear flippers and slings were considered an inferior upgrade per many pinball purists. That is why so many linear flipper games are found converted to classic flipper assemblies. The great Desi D' Percel created the linear designs and could talk your ear off explaining why they were superior. He always blamed the failure of linear components on inferior material substitutions by the purchasing department.

Bally 198x_0005 (resized).jpg
#2010 4 months ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Bally Linear flippers and slings were considered an inferior upgrade per many pinball purists. That is why so many linear flipper games are found converted to classic flipper assemblies. The great Desi D' Percel created the linear designs and could talk your ear off explaining why they were superior. He always blamed the failure of linear components on inferior material substitutions by the purchasing department.
[quoted image]

I never had a problem with them provided they were in good condition.

#2011 4 months ago

Interesting that some people claim they provide easier bump passing. This would be a really nice thing. But I have no idea? I don't know if I ever experience linear flippers. Now I want to buy a machine that has them to try out!

#2012 4 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, someone added multiball to flash gordon a while ago although I don't remember what came out of it. They did it all with hardware.
Where else besides the center hole could you add multiball? Behind the inlines would require memory inlines to get the ball out.

This is where I see the two balls being captured. They could be released from under a ramp or any one of the many options for release.
The trick is to update the code. I think there are a few other parts required to make a multiball game, but they can be taken from an existing machine. I am not an expert on this subject, but I would think a multiball ball trough assy would be different. Thoughts from the pros?

Fantastic!

f36827e5f5a1194d7100da35b0965f49fc1286cc (resized).jpg
#2013 4 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

This is where I see the two balls being captured. They could be released from under a ramp or any one of the many options for release.
The trick is to update the code. I think there are a few other parts required to make a multiball game, but they can be taken from an existing machine. I am not an expert on this subject, but I would think a multiball ball trough assy would be different. Thoughts from the pros?
Fantastic!
[quoted image]

There’s no place to capture a ball on your point 1. And, point 2 would take new hardware to control the drops as was mentioned.

#2014 4 months ago

FG does not have a 2 part trough. Once the ball is ejected from the out-hole it goes to the shooter lane. I have an Embryon and on that the first ball sits in the outhole. The second ball sits on the first but Bally added a switch wire there to sense the other ball. Later on Xenon used one of the first modern troughs where a separate solenoid releases balls to the shooter lane and there are switches in the trough. The outhole just relays balls to the trough.

There is a BSOS new rules version of FG already in existence so updating code is totally do-able now, since Tim rewrote the entire games rules and made some updates along the way.

Up until now, none of the BSOS game re-writes have involved modifying hardware at all but adding a switch into the switch matrix is dead easy and having the SW pick up on it is also dead easy. I have redone Eight Ball and am working on Future Spa.

#2015 4 months ago

Does anyone have available, or know where to find, the two spinner assemblies required for the playfield? I have nothing and can't find anyone with parts in stock.

Fantastic!

#2016 4 months ago

Try this: from Pinball Resource
PBRS Spinner (resized).png

#2017 4 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Try this: from Pinball Resource
[quoted image]

I also need the bracket.

#2019 4 months ago

How do you build up the saucer value in the game?

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#2020 4 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

How do you build up the saucer value in the game?
[quoted image]

4 bank

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#2021 4 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

How do you build up the saucer value in the game?
[quoted image]

Curious, is your playfield is a CPR, Hardtop or original? It looks great. Getting ready to do a Hardtop, so I was, as I said, curious.

Looks like you got your answer to increasing saucer value. Good luck with that. Such a great pin.

#2022 4 months ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Bally Linear flippers and slings were considered an inferior upgrade per many pinball purists. That is why so many linear flipper games are found converted to classic flipper assemblies. The great Desi D' Percel created the linear designs and could talk your ear off explaining why they were superior. He always blamed the failure of linear components on inferior material substitutions by the purchasing department.
[quoted image]

Those linear slings ruined plenty of playfields. They were too strong for the assembly and the whole thing would come loose. Eventually, a too large fastener would be used to keep the slingshot mech in place leading to pokes through the playfield. I have probably seen a dozen games come through my hands with that issue.

#2023 4 months ago
Quoted from zahner:

Curious, is your playfield is a CPR, Hardtop or original? It looks great. Getting ready to do a Hardtop, so I was, as I said, curious.
Looks like you

Curious, is your playfield is a CPR, Hardtop or original? It looks great. Getting ready to do a Hardtop, so I was, as I said, curious.
Looks like you got your answer to increasing saucer value. Good luck with that. Such a great pin.

That is a clearcoates... overlay someone put lots of love into years ago. Note the lack of insert numbers on the upper playfield and poorly sized inserts on the right. Classic arcade overlays was all that was available for some time... but someone did an amazing job with what they had to work with. Hardtop are great!

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#2024 4 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

That is a clearcoates... overlay someone put lots of love into years ago. Note the lack of insert numbers on the upper playfield and poorly sized inserts on the right. Classic arcade overlays was all that was available for some time... but someone did an amazing job with what they had to work with. Hardtop are great![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks - That's wild! They did a great job. I am way to nervous to try to clear-coat anything! I have no skills in that department. I bet it plays great.

1 week later
#2025 4 months ago

Does anyone know where to get the proper rivets and setting tool for the ball guides? Mine were rusted beyond salvation and my friend has made me a new set, but requires the brass rivets to make them like the originals. Perhaps a spot of tig weld will be a better solution, but I'd like to see if we can source original rivets.

Fantastic!

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#2027 4 months ago

Try: Hanson rivet,
---- Trojan rivet. USA

#2028 4 months ago
2 weeks later
#2029 3 months ago

I have to part with my Flash Gordon...the ad is in the classifieds.

Robert

#2030 3 months ago

Picked up a nice souvenir for my game today at the Shreveport Geek'd Con...

pasted_image (resized).png
2 weeks later
#2031 89 days ago

I'm back in the club after after having 4 Flash Gordon's in years past. Just picked up this very nice restored example with a hardtop. Going to change a few things to my liking and do an update here.1 (resized).JPG2 (resized).JPG5A (resized).JPG

#2032 89 days ago

IMG_E1033[1] (resized).JPG

1 month later
#2033 52 days ago

Looking for some help troubleshooting MPU LED continuously on, no flashing. I'm using the Bally F.O. 560-1 repair procedure. I have 4.2 volts on pin 2 of U9 and the procedure says there should be 2.8V. Is the the 4.2V too high? I've tried a couple of different U9's, still getting 4.2V.

Thanks,
Brad

#2034 52 days ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I have 4.2 volts on pin 2 of U9 and the procedure says there should be 2.8V.

Unless it's a typo, pin 2 of U9 should be around 4.8V and if you're getting 4.2V that would still be in range for a TTL circuit.

Start an early tech thread and post nice clear pictures of the board. [EDIT] early tech thread was already started.

#2035 52 days ago

Anyone actively working on their machine could I get a clear photo of the A3 J2 connector? It it the bottom left connector of the top right board. Couple of wires popped out in the way home from the york show and the manual doesn't describe color. Thank you!

20221007_193107 (resized).jpg
#2036 52 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Anyone actively working on their machine could I get a clear photo of the A3 J2 connector? It it the bottom left connector of the top right board. Couple of wires popped out in the way home from the york show and the manual doesn't describe color. Thank you!
[quoted image]

bally color codes are on the schematics. Look at the number shown and the color chart is at the bottom of the page (or on another schmatics page)

Screen Shot 2022-10-10 at 1.18.28 PM.png

Yellow-Red (31) is pin 7
Yellow-Brown (6) is pin 8

#2037 50 days ago

Finishing up a playfield swap on my Flash Gordon and testing all the lights before I put it up.

I've taken a wall wart and added alligator clips to test the lighting and have a question regarding the GI.

Should the entire GI light up or are they supplied from different parts of the board? I have the majority of the lower playfield light up (nothing on the left side or upper playfield). Curious if I'm chasing ghosts or the GI is run or powered from two different areas? If it's ran from different areas, where should i test each to make sure they are completely covered? What all should light per each area?

Appreciate any guidance you can provide!

#2038 49 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Finishing up a playfield swap on my Flash Gordon and testing all the lights before I put it up.
I've taken a wall wart and added alligator clips to test the lighting and have a question regarding the GI.
Should the entire GI light up or are they supplied from different parts of the board? I have the majority of the lower playfield light up (nothing on the left side or upper playfield). Curious if I'm chasing ghosts or the GI is run or powered from two different areas? If it's ran from different areas, where should i test each to make sure they are completely covered? What all should light per each area?
Appreciate any guidance you can provide!

You're basically testing strings of lights when you use the wall adapter. So if you have one clip attached to one end of the braid, and one clip attached to a light further down the line, you would expect each lamp in between to light up. It's been a while since I've done my last swap but pretty sure that's how it goes.

#2039 49 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

You're basically testing strings of lights when you use the wall adapter. So if you have one clip attached to one end of the braid, and one clip attached to a light further down the line, you would expect each lamp in between to light up. It's been a while since I've done my last swap but pretty sure that's how it goes.

That's what I'm trying to understand. I don't think they are all fed together. I'm guessing there are 3 different strands (left and right bottom playfield and upper) but wanted someone to confirm. I don't want to put the game put up (I'm still fixing the cabinet and need to send out the boards) without making sure that the lights work completely. I've tested continuity on all the controlled lamps and all is well, but want to verify the Gi also. I can't wait to be done with this game and finally play it!

#2040 49 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

That's what I'm trying to understand. I don't think they are all fed together. I'm guessing there are 3 different strands (left and right bottom playfield and upper) but wanted someone to confirm. I don't want to put the game put up (I'm still fixing the cabinet and need to send out the boards) without making sure that the lights work completely. I've tested continuity on all the controlled lamps and all is well, but want to verify the Gi also. I can't wait to be done with this game and finally play it!

Bally spits up the playfield GI into two strings for Flash Gordon.

Be aware the Ming lamps are not GI but controlled.

#2041 49 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Bally spits up the playfield GI into two strings for Flash Gordon.
Be aware the Ming lamps are not GI but controlled.

Do you know which side should be powering the upper playfield? Or is that split L to R as well?

#2042 49 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Do you know which side should be powering the upper playfield? Or is that split L to R as well?

There should be a few "feeds" of 5V to the GI braid throughout the game. I can't remember the color wire they are (should be in the schematics) but assuming you've laid down new braid and sockets, if you test the strings independently to verify the strings work, you'll at least know that your braids are good if there are lamps that don't work after you resolder everything.

#2043 49 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Do you know which side should be powering the upper playfield? Or is that split L to R as well?

I seem to recall it was split right left.

One string was white and red, the other green and orange. I think.

#2044 47 days ago

Oh look what I just got…

BAB2E4C2-21F1-4B47-860A-41912462AE5E.jpeg

4 weeks later
#2045 18 days ago

Finished my Flash Gordon hardtop install and playfield swap. Love it!
I’ve included photos below of some before and after. Plays great! Looks great!
The PF in my game was actually not that bad, so I decided to salvage that rather than destroying it when adding the hardtop. So, that meant I had to do a playfield swap. My first. I picked up a very worn playfield set I bought from someone who purchased a CPR Set. As you would expect, that PF only had the sockets and bare wire - everything else was gone - thus the PF swap.
With a hardtop install, people tend to worry about the Star rollovers. You have to Dremel out the holes on the hardtop to match the holes in the playfield below. Sounded scary to me. Took my time installing the Star rollovers and that turned out to be more daunting than difficult. Really was much simpler than I had anticipated. They came out great.
I chose to clear my playfield sans the inserts. You should seal your PF if you add a hardtop. It keeps the gunk away from the hardtop adhesive. I added them afterwards since I know not what I do when it comes to clear coating things. I ordered all new inserts and sanded them in place on the PF with 80 grit and the I removed them and went through a couple of finer grits, ending with 1200 wet and a buffing with my Dremel and some compound. I glued them in so they were a hair below flush and added the Hardtop.
I rehabilitate the arrows since I couldn’t find new ones. Just used a chisel to scrape off the junk and sanded them back to almost like new. Helped that they were opaque.
I also worried about the ramps because of the now 1/16 inch increase to the height of the PF with hardtop but followed the lead of others, adding a shim from the strip of plastic with the adhesive supplied with the Hardtop, and it worked brilliantly. Super easy.
When I did the PF swap I put in yopsicles under all of the inserts and rollovers. Love 'em.
Between the Hardtop, the upgraded and awesome sound board [check out https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/squawktalk.shtml] and the cabinet repaint, I think I am good to go.
I bought stickers for the spinners, but left in my old battered ones. I kind of like the look. I’d consider installing remakes, but the stickers just didn’t move me.
I might be interested in selling my old, now spare playfield, which has factory (it think) Mylar over about 90% of the painted surface. Still up in the air on that.
It was a long job due to the swap. If you are just putting it over your existing PF, it wouldn’t be bad. The biggest time suck with adding a Hardtop is waiting for the clear coat to dry and cure. Anyway, kudos to the folks at Hardtop. The game plays great and looks fantastic! I tossed on photos of the worn PF I bought before and after sanding, before and after of the arrow plastics, and some shots of the Hardtop after initial install and then when the game was put back together.

IMG_2817 (resized).jpegIMG_2820 (resized).jpegIMG_2821 (resized).jpegIMG_3028 (resized).jpegA4757231-2712-470C-8894-FF80F8B63E5F (resized).jpegF9310DEE-81A3-4451-96D8-73753BFB82D8 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2046 7 days ago

Pulled my FG playfield today to start pf swap over the weekend. Been involved with pins for the better part of 45 years but never did a pf swap - any tips? I've already got about 100 pics and labeled all the insert bulb wires (switching to Yopsicles). Was planning on starting with the topside teardown.

#2047 7 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Pulled my FG playfield today to start pf swap over the weekend. Been involved with pins for the better part of 45 years but never did a pf swap - any tips? I've already got about 100 pics and labeled all the insert bulb wires (switching to Yopsicles). Was planning on starting with the topside teardown.

Go slow. Label absolutely everything and bag / box it. Now is the time to clean / rebuild every mech in the game and repair / replace pitted parts, coils and iffy wiring.

Don't trust the dimples / marks for mounting hardware. Fit everything and mark / confirm the marks yourself before drilling.

Go s l o w. And walk away when you feel any frustration setting in.

Dremel tile bits do a great job of preparing topside holes for actual drilling (H/T Ron Kruzman).

Find all the PF Swap Threads you can and read them. Learn from others success and failure.

Have fun. I am mid Swap on a friends FG and have a HGT in the wings, waiting.

#2048 7 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Pulled my FG playfield today to start pf swap over the weekend. Been involved with pins for the better part of 45 years but never did a pf swap - any tips? I've already got about 100 pics and labeled all the insert bulb wires (switching to Yopsicles). Was planning on starting with the topside teardown.

More pictures than you have

#2049 7 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Dremel tile bits do a great job of preparing topside holes for actual drilling (H/T Ron Kruzman).

Thanks for the info. I looked around but could not find any info on using the Dremel bit - do you have a link?

#2050 7 days ago

If you look at the Kruzman Thread, he sells a PF Prep Kit that contains all the Dremmel Bits I use.

Will post a photo of them later this evening.

Other Dremmel Tool that is super handy is a Plunge Base. Makes drilling located holes super easy. Just have to undersize the bit a little as the dremmel motor is not as tight a tolerance as a larger drill motor.

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