Thanks, the issue was the drop when the switch was closed, I adjusted and that's 100%

Star rollovers were just leaf adjustments.

Middle saucer I tweaked the metal tabs for a LONG while and it is pretty consistent when it shoots up, so I am mostly satisfied there.

Really fun game, very excited to add it to the lineup!

Fantastic.

It really is. Ming is truly Merciless.

And you still just mash and mash that Start Button.

Yeah man. Right here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-2018-hep/page/10#post-4207373
I asked about doing it

Last question (I think). Completing the drops on the right lights extra ball, shooting it turns the insert off, but no ball is awarded. I dont see anything in the dips, maybe I am missing an option?

options 16-17 control the extra ball control, not the dips see page 4a in the manual

And I am an idiot. Ty!

Hi Everyone,

Hope this post goes to the right place. I have a 1981 Flash Gordon and the our home kicker is not getting power. I have checked the coil and it’s fine and when calling for the kicker to kick the ball out the coil solenoid is not getting any power, anyone have an idea what’s going on ?

Other playfield coils firing?

maybe a fuse

So...my FG was having power issues and I decided to swap in an alltek to see if it’s the board or connectors. It’s loose wires in the connectors.

My question: should there be one long connector on the top right or two smaller connectors, as my game currently has.

Does anyplace sell connector kits specifically for FG? Or do I need to buy a bunch of connectors separately?

C73BDB3F-C7E9-4EF3-82B0-5E1D583FA66B (resized).jpegCB0DD595-59F2-4260-AA86-19F378C6BEDE (resized).jpeg

One long connector.

Try great plains electronics if they still have them.... .100 style.

It really should be 1 long connector, but 2 as you currently have works

If you aren't too mechanical and have never re-pinned a connector yet, I would just leave it as is and replace it after you get a little more experience with repinning connectors.

Robert

One long connector
Buy the 28 or 25 length (whichever) and buy .1 and .156, redo the connectors for the whole board.
Pick up a crimper
Cut down the big long connectors to fit.

You can repin connectors. Pretty easy - key is getting a decent crimper.

The connector is needing rewired. I redid connectors on a WCS and T2 a few years back. It’s just been a while and figuring out which parts I need.

I'm finally getting around to doing my playfield swap and there are nails hammered into the original playfield. The new playfield doesn't have any dimples for these nails. Do you think i could get away without nailing into the playfield? I would assume so since modern games don't have them.

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Those are to fight trapped balls. I removed mine and have had 1 trapped ball in the 4 months since I pulled them.
It's not on location, so I don't mind an occasional hassle.

Huh! Always wondered about that!

Ordered new plastics for my FG, woot!

Cool. Then I will forego the nails!

Another question, I was trying to remove the flipper bats earlier. The flippers were rebuilt when i bought the game a couple years ago and are still like new. For some reason the bats would not come out! I literally needed to take my 5lb hammer and hammer them out with a punch. Any idea why that might have happened? I would have never been able to do it in-game. It was on the rotisserie so I could really hammer it down.

Someone tightened them too much and the shaft splayed out trapping it in the pawl. It could also be that the bat didn't have the indent.

Also, you should replace the nails on the sling, not only blocks ball traps, they also hold the plastic up and prevent a really fast ball from pushing the rubber in too far, resulting in a weak sling.

I have used screw in posts from Gottlieb, they look nicer.

I rebuilt the flippers when I got the game. Upon initial inspection, it did not look or feel like there were any burrs from me over tightening the set screws. Usually when this happens though, I can typically twist and pull the bat, and it would eventually come out with a little effort. This took some hard whacks to get it out

I rubbed the shafts with 600 grit sandpaper and they slide in/out really easily so getting them in won't be a problem. Just thought it was really odd, especially without any obvious deformation.

I'll think about adding the nails back in. There is one in front of the upper flipper also plus some other places. If I see problems, it wont be too much work to do it once the playfield is back in the game, I wouldnt think.

Not at all and like someone else mentioned, thin posts / spools can also be substituted in places.

Could anyonevtell me what this wire is for soldered to the capacitor on rhe solenoid driver board? I have never seen this before.

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.

The wire belongs to Pin 10 of J3 and is the 5V ground return on your driver board coming from the rectifier board J3 pin 1. You likely need to repin your SDB J3 and replace the two capacitors and do three mods on the wiring side of the SDB.

It's not close to being done yet, but just thought I'd share my bit progress with the swap.

Bottom side is waiting for the rest of the sockets I dont have and cant order until Pinball Life gets back from vacation. Then ground braid and the harness/mechs can go back in. I could start on the topside I suppose... can you guess the one thing that I was short on while the playfield was bare?

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Nails to hammer behind the slings?

New Rails or did you refurb the old ones?

Still debating on whether or not to do that

It is "nail" like though

Refurbed original ones.

Thanks. I have a working DB and I'm just going to repin J3. I appreciate the explanation.

Regulator capacitor ground... The original connection point burned.
It is a typical and common problem for Bally games.

Ok. I'm officially stumped. I've been trying for the last hour to try to figure out where this piece goes. I neglected to take a picture of the apron assembly before I dismantled it because (famous last words) I thought it was simple enough to put back together. Can anyone provide pics of where this piece goes? I assume it has these nylon spacers involved somewhere.

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In line drops. No nylon spools. 4A11FF24-58ED-4803-8DD9-A169E4A159F9 (resized).png

The spool spacers should go somewhere over at the MING plastics.

Thank you!

I pick up a Flash Gordon last year. I have done the usual to get everything working. My kickout is pretty banged up.

One question is the Cliffy's™ kickout protector worth purchasing?

https://www.passionforpinball.com/flash_gordon.htm

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I think so. It neatened up the game and, for me, covered an area of great wear. Cliffy builds these things to protect high wear areas, so for me this one is a must have. It’s also one of the easiest cliffy installations I have done.

Thanks. I will order one.

Can someone verify for me that under the plunger gauge, there are 3 long nylon spacers that go underneath it to hold it up? 2 on the left are on the playfield under the apron and one is on the rail to the right?

White Spools / Spacers?

Yeah, two left and one on the right(rail).

Yes, the white spools. I have 2 in my hand a few posts up. Thank you!

Mostly finished with my playfield swap. I still need to make new spinner decals, and will attempt to restencil the cabinet once it warms up again, but it turned out pretty good considering all things. Not much troubleshooting afterwards, which I was happy with.

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Just finished updating the lighting a bit and installing Titan rubbers. Still haven’t done the inserts, since I just used what I had on hand. Comet Retro Warm SMDs for all the GI, Sunlight 1SMDs for the backbox, except for behind the logo which are Sunlight 2SMDs. Looks SO much nicer, and the Titan plays WAY better than the old rubber!

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Because nobody submits them to us. We are a user-driven database. But I do try to do outreach on occasion, like here.

Which S&T pages are you looking for? I can scan them.

Come on now, I submitted corrected D&D manuals and the parts manual and they have not been updated or added and that was over 2 years ago.

Hi, I don't know what pages that wamonkey was missing but he says we don't have them. Can you please review our listing and kindly submit to us whatever you have that we don't have? It may turn out to be just what wamonkey was looking for.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874

Please be sure to put your email address in the space provided for it at the top of the Submission Tool's main page which is the first page you see when you click on the [Submit Changes] link in the listing. That way, if I have any questions, I can contact you in that way.

Thank you.

Hi, I presume you mean Dungeons and Dragons? I looked in our submission queue and have nothing there for that game. For me to sit on something for that long would mean I'd have sent an email to the submitter (if email address was provided) and had not yet received a response. In addition to no submission in queue, I have no emails issued for this game.

Too often, people who submit items using our Submission Tool do not return to its main page to scroll down to the bottom to click "Submit Update for Review". Instead they X'd their browser window which aborts the submission and we never see it. Is it possible this happened to you? This happened to two different users within the last month, in fact.

We added a Parts Manual back in 2002 but it sounds like yours is different?

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=743

I have no emails in archives from anyone in the last several years asking for status of their D&D submission.

Please consider submitting your items again.

This is a good time for me to again let everyone know that I am quite approachable via email if ever you feel your submission is overdue to appear, or you just want status. You are not bothering me if you do this. I cheerfully encourage such emails because it is much preferable than allowing animus to build up.

Thank you.