I’m looking for a strobe for this unit. If anyone has one please pm me.

Now that's a project! Installing the newer PS must have been a lot of work.

I have been progressing on my FG serial # 8396. Thanks to everyone for the help. This was the wonky CPR playfield changeover that was done for me 8 years ago. Can anybody please tell me where this brown / white wire was supposed to go on my playfield? It was in the wires that go to the lower right flipper assembly and wrapped in black electrical tape. It was connected to nothing. I traced it to the plug that goes to MPU J2 Pin2, which is "ST1 playfield switch strobe" Please help if you can.

I have gradually been going through the playfield wiring and correcting things that seemed poorly done. I bought a Unicatch U-SC/71 long-nose stapler to repair and replace the crappy bus wires. I am re-soldering frayed connections, and trying to make sure I don't have any shorts.

I also had to clean all of the clear out of the star rollovers. I used a cordless dremel and a diamond tipped bit. This was scary, but it worked out well. Again, thanks for the help. I'm not far from gradually plugging this in. I hope to test GI within the next couple days.

20200702_100011 (resized).jpg

According to the playfield switch schematic, MPU J2 pin 2 is an orange wire.

There's a brown-white wire that's listed as going to MPU J2 pin 14. My guess that wire should go to the tilt switch that's on the right side of the right flipper mech. There should also be a loose white-red wire for the tilt switch too.

See here:
https://images.pinside.com/3/03/e7/303e78e6fa20d35936857db3de75b50eb9d4affc.jpg

Thanks so much. So I m missing the slam tilt assembly from under the PF, and the brown-white wire does go to MPU J2 pin 14. I mistakenly thought it was pin 2. Thanks again, mk

Please help with controlled lamp problem. I was able to get my FG playfield plugged in, and am working through some issues from the wonky PF changeover. The following controlled lamps are not working: 1 Flash Gordon (red/white J2 pin 4 of ALD), Top shooter alley rollover (red/blue J2 pin 14 of ALD), upper top right rollover button (red, J2 pin 7 of ALD).

First, I swapped out my Aux Lamp Driver with another 100% working one from my EBD. Same problem. So, I know the problem is NOT on the Aux Lamp Driver. When I jump the non-working lamps to another working controlled lamp, they work, so the problem is not bulb or socket related.

What should I check next? Please help if you can.

I'm going to try swapping the lamp driver board next to see if this does anything

20200705_230736 (resized).jpg

20200705_230905 (resized).jpg

I don't have my manual handy, I think you are saying both non-working lamps are driven by the Aux Lamp Driver? Your board swap, does the FG board work in your EBD? Have you checked that the output pin driving those lamps are actually working? Either use a DMM to probe those pins while in lamp test. Or make up a spare socket with bulb (I always debug using incandescents) and check that in lamp test mode each output can drive a lamp (connector off, just touching the socket lead to one pin at a time). If that works it is a matter of finding a bad connection somewhere.

Finally, I came across a weird error on my FG, one bonus PF light would work in lamp test, but never during the game. Turned out to be a factory error, the wire was one pin off in the connector and lamp test fires all pins where the game may never use some pins.

Controlled Lamp Problem SOLVED...Really stupid on my part...

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. So, as per BJM-Maxx's advice, I get the logic probe out to check the J2 pins for signals. I notice Pin 4 is the line that controls the FG 1 lamps in the backbox. I am getting a proper signal here (Lamp test mode, pulsing from 0 to 6.3v) on the board with J2 disconnected. I check continuity from the J2 connector pin 4 (red /white wire) goes to backbox FG1 lamps. Good continuity. And, these lamps work when I jump them to another working controlled lamp, so I know the bulbs, sockets, and buss line are good. )

Turns out, this J2 connector was never keyed. So, I was plugging it in 2 pins low. It properly should sit (see my picture) with 2 pins going past pin 18 on the J2 plug. I feel like a dummy. I figured I better share this, though, because I could see someone else making the same mistake. I've come across many ALD J2 and J3 connectors that didn't have key pins installed.

J2 ALD (resized).jpg

Glad you fixed it. Those too long connector bodies seem to show up on those Aux boards for some reason.

Cut off the battery, pull the 5101 and install NVRAM. Just that easy, did another this weekend past.

The boards are fairly reliable, crappy old sockets and AMI brand chips are typically the problem children.

Edit: Well you can cut them off and people do all the time, I prefer to desolder myself.

does the German strobe come with the secondary transformer or resolve that voltage requirement some other way? Not sure why there would be a conflict with going to an LED lamp board or the adaptors, they're completely separate.

With the pricing on the flicker eliminator boards & adaptors its kind of a toss up in my mind. You'll need the extra flicker adaptors for the auxiliary lamp board. I think someone makes the replacement board but i cant remember who. i went with the adaptors because weebly was out of full board replacements.
IMG_6234 (resized).jpeg

I'm missing both the flash unit in the head, and the flash transformer in the cabinet. Are you saying there are some available in Germany? I haven't seen that, and would love a link.

Maybe this one?

https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/PinPointBoards.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AS-2518-62

The SCRs used on the Bally Aux boards don't seem to have issues with LED flicker. I only use replacement boards for the main Light Driver Board.

That's strange isn't it? I noticed that with EBD.

That's because the aux lamp driver board refreshes the lamps later in the DC phase when the lamp voltage is higher and more current is flowing so there's a better chance those SCRs latch on.

Now ya tell me! Good to know, thanks

Almost there... I finally have installed the CPR playfield into my #8396 cabinet. I have a couple weird minor issues that I need advice on.

Are there supposed to be a total of (5) switch capacitors on the star rolllovers (one on each switch)? Or, since these switches are jumped to each other - (3) on one line and (2) on the other, do they only get (2), which would be one for each group of switches? I currently just have one switch cap on each group for a total of 2.

I wondered if the switch caps are related to this issue:

When I test the plumb tilt in switch test mode, it will occasionally start firing the lower pop bumpers. Then, when I started cleaning the playfield, (game in attract mode) it started racking up credits when I pushed the 2nd star rollover on the shooter lane.

I cant see how the 2nd star rollover switch is related to a credit switch in the matrix.

Please help if you can, Thanks, mk

20200717_225550 (resized).jpg

The credit button is number 6 on the switch matrix, right above the tilt. It is not labeled.

When you say the lower pop bumpers fire, can you say which one? Is it both or only one? Are any other switches closed on the matrix when this all happens?

I got cliffy lane guides. So now how the hell do I separate the old guides from the supports without breaking the supports? They rotate freely but otherwise I have been unable to dislodge them.

IMG_20200718_140718813 (resized).jpg

Head you grind the lip off and use the screw to secure it to the playfield loose. I would epoxy them in just because if it were me

Got it worked out

Just thought I’d post a little pic and say, I’m absolutely loving this game.
Just fully rebuilt all three flippers and it’s playing superbly. Can’t believe how much it cost (over a £100) but worth it for the way it’s playing now.
And how gorgeous is this game!! It must have blown minds back in 1980. Stunning game.

BDEE2B50-405E-4A11-99B3-D37608EA32DD (resized).jpeg

I should have explained more clearly; the 2nd rollover in from the shooter lane is racking up credits. This is switch # 2. The unusual thing is that none of the other rollover switches are doing this, just the 2nd one in from the shooter lane. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

Your game looks sweet. Totally agree. Had one years ago, kept it for a few years, sold it to a Pixar animator with a big lizard, immediately regretted it.
Four years ago bought a cheap fixer-upper with a nice playfield and mint backglass and this one is staying put. Repainted the cabinet, titan rubber, rebuilt flippers, drop targets, and pop bumpers, splurged for all new boards, new apron signed by Sam Jones, new door skin, some LEDs and legs - in other words: over the top, but worth it.
Love the game play. Love the looks. Great from head to toe.

I believe all three are connected. Perhaps check for a short to ground on that exact switch. The metal lug on the switch touching a lamp. Some other piece of the switch, perhaps the diode, touching a lamp. Or something touching the ground braid when it shouldn’t be. Stuff like that.

I would try putting the game in switch test and see what number comes up on the displays when you try the various rollover buttons. Page 17 of the manual has the chart you can refer to for the numbers that correspond with the switches during the test. Screenshot_20200726_064507_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Also, it's worth noting those rollover buttons each have a 0.05 uf ceramic cap wired to the switch. If a cap fails even on just one of the switches, it can sometimes cause erratic behavior elsewhere on the switch matrix. Easiest thing to try first is snipping one of the legs of the cap where it attaches to a switch. Try snipping one leg off the cap for the 2nd rollover button switch, then test it again. If that solves it, it's still recommended to replace the cap to ensure quick activations of the switch still register. The game can still be safely played with the cap snipped off though. Again, there's several switches with caps on them--just check the switch matrix chart in the manual to find the rest of them. (Arrow is pointing at the capacitor symbol for reference, also note that not all switches use caps) 1475347108.png

If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them.

Good luck!

You can simply download the game manual which has the map and ring sizes.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874

I got a rubber kit and it was correct according to the manual but as I recall I used a 2” rubber instead of a 1.5” behind the 3 bank. The 1.5” was pretty tight and closed my switch.

Also I used the 3” rubbers for my slings but I wonder what’s 2.5” would look like. The 3” look a little loose to me and Mata Hari has 2.5” listed In the manual for the slings and the dimensions have to be pretty much the same.

Old school game, old school rubber. Also, simply just get a few extra for a dollar and your set as they will break down.

Excellent point. When crazy stuff is happening in the switch matrix of an old Bally, and it doesn’t present as a shorted diode, I often find a bad cap is the culprit.

"If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them."

Thanks for the help. The diode on the 2nd star rolllover switch from the shooter lane was pushed funny and was slightly touching the controlled lamp socket. I straightened the diode out, and moved the lamp socket a bit so it is not so close to the switch. This appears to have solved the problem, the switch is no longer racking up credits.

Also, as per ss-pinball's advice, I will be installing caps on all of the star rollover switches. I only have (2) total currently on the star rollover switches. Thanks again, mk

Nice! Glad you got it solved. Sounds like a short to ground was the culprit.

Heads up. CPR repro FG PF's are getting cleared now. Look for them in couple weeks.

I'll be in on one! This is great news!

Ha ! You beat me to it. Im looking for a restored one or really nice example in the NY area. For sale or trade.

Hey I posted in VID1900’s forum on upgrading flippers and I want to upgrade my Flash Gordon project as I restore it to the newer non-linear flippers....

Anyone upgrade their flippers using VID1900’s guide?

Can you tell me what you purchased exactly? How it worked out any issues? I want to upgrade all three flippers...

Any help would be appreciated...

Not trying to be negative but installing Williams flippers on a classic Bally is not "restore to newer non-linear flippers". It's a hack to avoid future maintenance on a location game that would see many thousands of plays.

IMHO, there is absolutely no reason to not just install fresh linear flipper mechanics. The game will play fantastic and remain authentic to its original design.

Of course, it's your game so do what you want with it.

Just for my own education, what’s a linear vs non-linear flipper?

Trust me I respect your opinion but I have to buy all new stuff (it was a $300 project FG - the mechs were removed, even the plates) and VID1900 recommended it just because it is a tighter more modern feel. I did it before on a Gorgar and it made a huge difference for an older game. I have owned more Williams than Bally pins so linear flippers are just different and I have to buy everything anyway I was just going to try and upgrade it as much as I can with modern stuff. It will not be an original FG, I will have a hardtop on it, new stencils, new LED displays. I took this on as a COVID project to keep myself busy and engaged in something I enjoy doing.

If you read VID1900's forum on the upgrade all kinds of Pinsiders upgraded all kinds of machines, just think it is worth a try on Flash Gordon.

New mechs will make a huge difference on an older game for sure, whether they are Williams or Classic Bally.

I'm just saying you're going through the trouble of restoring the PF, etc. I think you'll find a new set of Bally flipper mechs will play awesome and keep the game "authentic" in feel. I just finished my FG project with new Bally mechs and there is zero issue with flipper strength, etc. Also, if I were looking to buy a nicely restored FG such as yours will be once it is done, I'd count Williams flippers as a negative and replace them with Ballys or avoid the deal for that reason.

Anyway, I don't have any info on your original question so I'll butt out now.

Good luck with your project.