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(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club


By TheShameGovernor

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by SeaLawyer
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There are 1420 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 29.
#1251 3 months ago

I’m looking for a strobe for this unit. If anyone has one please pm me.

#1252 3 months ago

Now that's a project! Installing the newer PS must have been a lot of work.

1 week later
#1253 3 months ago

I have been progressing on my FG serial # 8396. Thanks to everyone for the help. This was the wonky CPR playfield changeover that was done for me 8 years ago. Can anybody please tell me where this brown / white wire was supposed to go on my playfield? It was in the wires that go to the lower right flipper assembly and wrapped in black electrical tape. It was connected to nothing. I traced it to the plug that goes to MPU J2 Pin2, which is "ST1 playfield switch strobe" Please help if you can.

I have gradually been going through the playfield wiring and correcting things that seemed poorly done. I bought a Unicatch U-SC/71 long-nose stapler to repair and replace the crappy bus wires. I am re-soldering frayed connections, and trying to make sure I don't have any shorts.

I also had to clean all of the clear out of the star rollovers. I used a cordless dremel and a diamond tipped bit. This was scary, but it worked out well. Again, thanks for the help. I'm not far from gradually plugging this in. I hope to test GI within the next couple days.

20200702_100011 (resized).jpg
#1254 3 months ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Can anybody please tell me where this brown / white wire was supposed to go on my playfield? It was in the wires that go to the lower right flipper assembly and wrapped in black electrical tape. It was connected to nothing. I traced it to the plug that goes to MPU J2 Pin2, which is "ST1 playfield switch strobe" Please help if you can.

According to the playfield switch schematic, MPU J2 pin 2 is an orange wire.

There's a brown-white wire that's listed as going to MPU J2 pin 14. My guess that wire should go to the tilt switch that's on the right side of the right flipper mech. There should also be a loose white-red wire for the tilt switch too.

See here:
https://images.pinside.com/3/03/e7/303e78e6fa20d35936857db3de75b50eb9d4affc.jpg

#1255 3 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

According to the playfield switch schematic, MPU J2 pin 2 is an orange wire.
There's a brown-white wire that's listed as going to MPU J2 pin 14. My guess that wire should go to the tilt switch that's on the right side of the right flipper mech. There should also be a loose white-red wire for the tilt switch too.
See here:
https://images.pinside.com/3/03/e7/303e78e6fa20d35936857db3de75b50eb9d4affc.jpg

Thanks so much. So I m missing the slam tilt assembly from under the PF, and the brown-white wire does go to MPU J2 pin 14. I mistakenly thought it was pin 2. Thanks again, mk

#1256 86 days ago

Please help with controlled lamp problem. I was able to get my FG playfield plugged in, and am working through some issues from the wonky PF changeover. The following controlled lamps are not working: 1 Flash Gordon (red/white J2 pin 4 of ALD), Top shooter alley rollover (red/blue J2 pin 14 of ALD), upper top right rollover button (red, J2 pin 7 of ALD).

First, I swapped out my Aux Lamp Driver with another 100% working one from my EBD. Same problem. So, I know the problem is NOT on the Aux Lamp Driver. When I jump the non-working lamps to another working controlled lamp, they work, so the problem is not bulb or socket related.

What should I check next? Please help if you can.

I'm going to try swapping the lamp driver board next to see if this does anything

20200705_230736 (resized).jpg20200705_230905 (resized).jpg
#1257 86 days ago

I don't have my manual handy, I think you are saying both non-working lamps are driven by the Aux Lamp Driver? Your board swap, does the FG board work in your EBD? Have you checked that the output pin driving those lamps are actually working? Either use a DMM to probe those pins while in lamp test. Or make up a spare socket with bulb (I always debug using incandescents) and check that in lamp test mode each output can drive a lamp (connector off, just touching the socket lead to one pin at a time). If that works it is a matter of finding a bad connection somewhere.

Finally, I came across a weird error on my FG, one bonus PF light would work in lamp test, but never during the game. Turned out to be a factory error, the wire was one pin off in the connector and lamp test fires all pins where the game may never use some pins.

#1258 84 days ago

Controlled Lamp Problem SOLVED...Really stupid on my part...

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. So, as per BJM-Maxx's advice, I get the logic probe out to check the J2 pins for signals. I notice Pin 4 is the line that controls the FG 1 lamps in the backbox. I am getting a proper signal here (Lamp test mode, pulsing from 0 to 6.3v) on the board with J2 disconnected. I check continuity from the J2 connector pin 4 (red /white wire) goes to backbox FG1 lamps. Good continuity. And, these lamps work when I jump them to another working controlled lamp, so I know the bulbs, sockets, and buss line are good. )

Turns out, this J2 connector was never keyed. So, I was plugging it in 2 pins low. It properly should sit (see my picture) with 2 pins going past pin 18 on the J2 plug. I feel like a dummy. I figured I better share this, though, because I could see someone else making the same mistake. I've come across many ALD J2 and J3 connectors that didn't have key pins installed.

J2 ALD (resized).jpg
#1259 84 days ago

Glad you fixed it. Those too long connector bodies seem to show up on those Aux boards for some reason.

#1260 79 days ago

Fingers crossed, I'll be joining the club very soon.
The machine is currently running an original board set.
It currently boots and plays most of the time.
Going to send out the boards immediately, as I'll need to clean and go over the machine and put together an order.
The board guy is going to add Vid's jumpers.
What is the situation with NVRAM and this title?
(I know Meteor has some ROM issues when coupled with NVRAM).
What is the preferred method to get rid of batteries for Flash Gordon?

#1261 78 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Fingers crossed, I'll be joining the club very soon.
The machine is currently running an original board set.
It currently boots and plays most of the time.
Going to send out the boards immediately, as I'll need to clean and go over the machine and put together an order.
The board guy is going to add Vid's jumpers.
What is the situation with NVRAM and this title?
(I know Meteor has some ROM issues when coupled with NVRAM).
What is the preferred method to get rid of batteries for Flash Gordon?

Cut off the battery, pull the 5101 and install NVRAM. Just that easy, did another this weekend past.

The boards are fairly reliable, crappy old sockets and AMI brand chips are typically the problem children.

Edit: Well you can cut them off and people do all the time, I prefer to desolder myself.

#1262 77 days ago

Finally joined the club. Project though. Rough cabinet. Good playfield with no wear. Good plastics, clean boards. Backglass will do for now (taped with red tape along the bottom.

Lights.
Can someone use small words and explain the alltek light board
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1201-allteksystems/02798-auxiliary-led-lamp-driver-board-for-as-2518-52
for $90 which is supposed to take care of the LED flicker issue. Seems like a decent idea and probably a better fix

There is also a $50 flicker eliminator here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1181-pinballelectronicscom/02990-classic-bally-amp-stern-led-flicker-eliminator-adapter

what's the story?
Pros and cons?

My FG does not have the strobe...not sure what kind of headache I'd be opening myself up for if I decided to get one...they are in Germany? Any compatibility issues with the LED flicker solutions from above?

#1263 77 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Finally joined the club. Project though. Rough cabinet. Good playfield with no wear. Good plastics, clean boards. Backglass will do for now (taped with red tape along the bottom.
Lights.
Can someone use small words and explain the alltek light board
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1201-allteksystems/02798-auxiliary-led-lamp-driver-board-for-as-2518-52
for $90 which is supposed to take care of the LED flicker issue. Seems like a decent idea and probably a better fix
There is also a $50 flicker eliminator here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1181-pinballelectronicscom/02990-classic-bally-amp-stern-led-flicker-eliminator-adapter
what's the story?
Pros and cons?
My FG does not have the strobe...not sure what kind of headache I'd be opening myself up for if I decided to get one...they are in Germany? Any compatibility issues with the LED flicker solutions from above?

does the German strobe come with the secondary transformer or resolve that voltage requirement some other way? Not sure why there would be a conflict with going to an LED lamp board or the adaptors, they're completely separate.

With the pricing on the flicker eliminator boards & adaptors its kind of a toss up in my mind. You'll need the extra flicker adaptors for the auxiliary lamp board. I think someone makes the replacement board but i cant remember who. i went with the adaptors because weebly was out of full board replacements.
IMG_6234 (resized).jpeg

#1264 76 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

they are in Germany?

I'm missing both the flash unit in the head, and the flash transformer in the cabinet. Are you saying there are some available in Germany? I haven't seen that, and would love a link.

#1265 76 days ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

I'm missing both the flash unit in the head, and the flash transformer in the cabinet. Are you saying there are some available in Germany? I haven't seen that, and would love a link.

Maybe this one?

https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/PinPointBoards.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AS-2518-62

#1267 76 days ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

You'll need the extra flicker adaptors for the auxiliary lamp board. I think someone makes the replacement board but i cant remember who. i went with the adaptors because weebly was out of full board replacements.

The SCRs used on the Bally Aux boards don't seem to have issues with LED flicker. I only use replacement boards for the main Light Driver Board.

#1268 75 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

The SCRs used on the Bally Aux boards don't seem to have issues with LED flicker. I only use replacement boards for the main Light Driver Board.

That's strange isn't it? I noticed that with EBD.

#1269 75 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's strange isn't it? I noticed that with EBD.

That's because the aux lamp driver board refreshes the lamps later in the DC phase when the lamp voltage is higher and more current is flowing so there's a better chance those SCRs latch on.

#1270 75 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

The SCRs used on the Bally Aux boards don't seem to have issues with LED flicker. I only use replacement boards for the main Light Driver Board.

Now ya tell me! Good to know, thanks

#1271 74 days ago

Almost there... I finally have installed the CPR playfield into my #8396 cabinet. I have a couple weird minor issues that I need advice on.

Are there supposed to be a total of (5) switch capacitors on the star rolllovers (one on each switch)? Or, since these switches are jumped to each other - (3) on one line and (2) on the other, do they only get (2), which would be one for each group of switches? I currently just have one switch cap on each group for a total of 2.

I wondered if the switch caps are related to this issue:

When I test the plumb tilt in switch test mode, it will occasionally start firing the lower pop bumpers. Then, when I started cleaning the playfield, (game in attract mode) it started racking up credits when I pushed the 2nd star rollover on the shooter lane.

I cant see how the 2nd star rollover switch is related to a credit switch in the matrix.

Please help if you can, Thanks, mk

20200717_225550 (resized).jpg
#1272 74 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Almost there... I finally have installed the CPR playfield into my #8396 cabinet. I have a couple weird minor issues that I need advice on.
Are there supposed to be a total of (5) switch capacitors on the star rolllovers (one on each switch)? Or, since these switches are jumped to each other - (3) on one line and (2) on the other, do they only get (2), which would be one for each group of switches? I currently just have one switch cap on each group for a total of 2.
I wondered if the switch caps are related to this issue:
When I test the plumb tilt in switch test mode, it will occasionally start firing the lower pop bumpers. Then, when I started cleaning the playfield, (game in attract mode) it started racking up credits when I pushed the 2nd star rollover on the shooter lane.
I cant see how the 2nd star rollover switch is related to a credit switch in the matrix.
Please help if you can, Thanks, mk[quoted image]

The credit button is number 6 on the switch matrix, right above the tilt. It is not labeled.

When you say the lower pop bumpers fire, can you say which one? Is it both or only one? Are any other switches closed on the matrix when this all happens?

#1273 74 days ago

I got cliffy lane guides. So now how the hell do I separate the old guides from the supports without breaking the supports? They rotate freely but otherwise I have been unable to dislodge them.

IMG_20200718_140718813 (resized).jpg
#1274 74 days ago

Head you grind the lip off and use the screw to secure it to the playfield loose. I would epoxy them in just because if it were me

#1275 74 days ago

Got it worked out

1 week later
#1276 67 days ago

Just thought I’d post a little pic and say, I’m absolutely loving this game.
Just fully rebuilt all three flippers and it’s playing superbly. Can’t believe how much it cost (over a £100) but worth it for the way it’s playing now.
And how gorgeous is this game!! It must have blown minds back in 1980. Stunning game.

BDEE2B50-405E-4A11-99B3-D37608EA32DD (resized).jpeg
#1277 67 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

The credit button is number 6 on the switch matrix, right above the tilt. It is not labeled.
When you say the lower pop bumpers fire, can you say which one? Is it both or only one? Are any other switches closed on the matrix when this all happens?

I should have explained more clearly; the 2nd rollover in from the shooter lane is racking up credits. This is switch # 2. The unusual thing is that none of the other rollover switches are doing this, just the 2nd one in from the shooter lane. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

#1278 67 days ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Just thought I’d post a little pic and say, I’m absolutely loving this game.
Just fully rebuilt all three flippers and it’s playing superbly. Can’t believe how much it cost (over a £100) but worth it for the way it’s playing now.
And how gorgeous is this game!! It must have blown minds back in 1980. Stunning game. [quoted image]

Your game looks sweet. Totally agree. Had one years ago, kept it for a few years, sold it to a Pixar animator with a big lizard, immediately regretted it.
Four years ago bought a cheap fixer-upper with a nice playfield and mint backglass and this one is staying put. Repainted the cabinet, titan rubber, rebuilt flippers, drop targets, and pop bumpers, splurged for all new boards, new apron signed by Sam Jones, new door skin, some LEDs and legs - in other words: over the top, but worth it.
Love the game play. Love the looks. Great from head to toe.

#1279 66 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I should have explained more clearly; the 2nd rollover in from the shooter lane is racking up credits. This is switch # 2. The unusual thing is that none of the other rollover switches are doing this, just the 2nd one in from the shooter lane. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

I believe all three are connected. Perhaps check for a short to ground on that exact switch. The metal lug on the switch touching a lamp. Some other piece of the switch, perhaps the diode, touching a lamp. Or something touching the ground braid when it shouldn’t be. Stuff like that.

#1280 66 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I should have explained more clearly; the 2nd rollover in from the shooter lane is racking up credits. This is switch # 2. The unusual thing is that none of the other rollover switches are doing this, just the 2nd one in from the shooter lane. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

I would try putting the game in switch test and see what number comes up on the displays when you try the various rollover buttons. Page 17 of the manual has the chart you can refer to for the numbers that correspond with the switches during the test. Screenshot_20200726_064507_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Also, it's worth noting those rollover buttons each have a 0.05 uf ceramic cap wired to the switch. If a cap fails even on just one of the switches, it can sometimes cause erratic behavior elsewhere on the switch matrix. Easiest thing to try first is snipping one of the legs of the cap where it attaches to a switch. Try snipping one leg off the cap for the 2nd rollover button switch, then test it again. If that solves it, it's still recommended to replace the cap to ensure quick activations of the switch still register. The game can still be safely played with the cap snipped off though. Again, there's several switches with caps on them--just check the switch matrix chart in the manual to find the rest of them. (Arrow is pointing at the capacitor symbol for reference, also note that not all switches use caps) 1475347108.png

If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them.

Good luck!

#1281 66 days ago

Does anyone have a rubber map and list of materials? (I have a supply of some miscellaneous rubbers that I'd like to use that should cover 75% of this one)...just want to go through that before putting in my first order...

#1282 66 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Does anyone have a rubber map and list of materials? (I have a supply of some miscellaneous rubbers that I'd like to use that should cover 75% of this one)...just want to go through that before putting in my first order...

You can simply download the game manual which has the map and ring sizes.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874

#1283 66 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

You can simply download the game manual which has the map and ring sizes.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=874

Brilliant suggestion. I appreciate the no-nonsense approach.
The information pretends to be on page 9 of the manual (page 13 of the pdf from IPDB)
It is not clearly marked. The rubbers are in the section at the top under the heading "#1215 Flash Gordon"...interestingly, the map lays out A,C,D,F,G, and the number of rubbers corresponds to the number on the table...

However, B and E don't agree...there are supposed to be 5 "B" 1 inch rubbers...I see three labeled (top flipper, on the right, next to the kickout hole and next to the top bumper)...I suspect a fourth just below the 4 drop target assembly on the left of the playfield but that isn't labeled...the fifth one remains a mystery.

"E" rubbers are behind the 4 drop target on the left and another to the left of the kickout hole below a "D" rubber...no idea where a third one is supposed to go from this map.

Also, it looks like there are SIX posts (one is marked.... "32 minipost and rubber" (4) as the final item in the parts list BELOW the rubbers--again, the numbers don't seem to agree) that require rubbers but it isn't clear from the map what size...looks like that needs to be cross-referenced with a parts catalogue) and as the machine isn't right next to me, I'm not sure if they are metal posts or plastic posts.

You'd think in the last 39 years the information would have been put on an accurate, easy-to-read page.

pasted_image (resized).png
#1284 66 days ago

There may be a seventh post to the left next to the first drop in the in-line drop target assembly numbered 17...

#1285 66 days ago

I got a rubber kit and it was correct according to the manual but as I recall I used a 2” rubber instead of a 1.5” behind the 3 bank. The 1.5” was pretty tight and closed my switch.

Also I used the 3” rubbers for my slings but I wonder what’s 2.5” would look like. The 3” look a little loose to me and Mata Hari has 2.5” listed In the manual for the slings and the dimensions have to be pretty much the same.

#1286 66 days ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

I got a rubber kit and it was correct according to the manual but as I recall I used a 2” rubber instead of a 1.5” behind the 3 bank. The 1.5” was pretty tight and closed my switch.
Also I used the 3” rubbers for my slings but I wonder what’s 2.5” would look like. The 3” look a little loose to me and Mata Hari has 2.5” listed In the manual for the slings and the dimensions have to be pretty much the same.

Thanks quietearp that's pretty good info.
Anyone else have some hard-won wisdom on the rubber front?

I'm torn on using traditional rubbers vs some of the newer super-rubber stuff like Titan....the new stuff seems much "bouncier"...harder to trap balls and much more random. When I've played machines in the wild outfitted with new Titans or similar, I haven't really cared for the feel....I do like the idea of increased longevity and less disintegration/dust as the rubbers get older. I've also wondered about using Titans or similar on harder to reach areas on pins where there is significant disassembly required to change out all of the rubbers...I mean, you guys know how that works...there's always a handful that never get changed unless there is a complete disassembly...seems like in a cramped space like that and an area that could easily be overlooked or ignored these new types would be ideal. (I don't think that there are rubbers that specifically fit this description on FG, but I haven't really been working on this one yet. I've been concentrating on Meteor since that is probably easier and came in the door first). Should get a good start on FG in a week or two). Just trying to put together as complete an order as I can first time around...

#1287 66 days ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

Thanks quietearp that's pretty good info.
Anyone else have some hard-won wisdom on the rubber front?
I'm torn on using traditional rubbers vs some of the newer super-rubber stuff like Titan....the new stuff seems much "bouncier"...harder to trap balls and much more random. When I've played machines in the wild outfitted with new Titans or similar, I haven't really cared for the feel....I do like the idea of increased longevity and less disintegration/dust as the rubbers get older. I've also wondered about using Titans or similar on harder to reach areas on pins where there is significant disassembly required to change out all of the rubbers...I mean, you guys know how that works...there's always a handful that never get changed unless there is a complete disassembly...seems like in a cramped space like that and an area that could easily be overlooked or ignored these new types would be ideal. (I don't think that there are rubbers that specifically fit this description on FG, but I haven't really been working on this one yet. I've been concentrating on Meteor since that is probably easier and came in the door first). Should get a good start on FG in a week or two). Just trying to put together as complete an order as I can first time around...

Old school game, old school rubber. Also, simply just get a few extra for a dollar and your set as they will break down.

#1288 66 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Old school game, old school rubber. Also, simply just get a few extra for a dollar and your set as they will break down.

Yes, that is actually why I was looking for the list...I'm planning to use as much as I can from the pile of spares I have for most of this....so that the next batch of overstock I get doesn't dry out completely before use them. Rotate the old out and onto projects.

Your point about it being an old game that was designed for use with traditional rubber makes huge sense.

#1289 66 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

I would try putting the game in switch test and see what number comes up on the displays when you try the various rollover buttons. Page 17 of the manual has the chart you can refer to for the numbers that correspond with the switches during the test. [quoted image]
Also, it's worth noting those rollover buttons each have a 0.05 uf ceramic cap wired to the switch. If a cap fails even on just one of the switches, it can sometimes cause erratic behavior elsewhere on the switch matrix. Easiest thing to try first is snipping one of the legs of the cap where it attaches to a switch. Try snipping one leg off the cap for the 2nd rollover button switch, then test it again. If that solves it, it's still recommended to replace the cap to ensure quick activations of the switch still register. The game can still be safely played with the cap snipped off though. Again, there's several switches with caps on them--just check the switch matrix chart in the manual to find the rest of them. (Arrow is pointing at the capacitor symbol for reference, also note that not all switches use caps) [quoted image]
If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them.
Good luck!

Excellent point. When crazy stuff is happening in the switch matrix of an old Bally, and it doesn’t present as a shorted diode, I often find a bad cap is the culprit.

#1290 66 days ago

"If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them."

Thanks for the help. The diode on the 2nd star rolllover switch from the shooter lane was pushed funny and was slightly touching the controlled lamp socket. I straightened the diode out, and moved the lamp socket a bit so it is not so close to the switch. This appears to have solved the problem, the switch is no longer racking up credits.

Also, as per ss-pinball's advice, I will be installing caps on all of the star rollover switches. I only have (2) total currently on the star rollover switches. Thanks again, mk

#1291 66 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

"If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them."
Thanks for the help. The diode on the 2nd star rolllover switch from the shooter lane was pushed funny and was slightly touching the controlled lamp socket. I straightened the diode out, and moved the lamp socket a bit so it is not so close to the switch. This appears to have solved the problem, the switch is no longer racking up credits.
Also, as per ss-pinball's advice, I will be installing caps on all of the star rollover switches. I only have (2) total currently on the star rollover switches. Thanks again, mk

that was frunch

#1292 66 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

"If snipping the cap from the 2nd rollover doesn't fix it, try the others. For long-term reliability, i would recommend replacing all the switch caps for any of the switches that use them."
Thanks for the help. The diode on the 2nd star rolllover switch from the shooter lane was pushed funny and was slightly touching the controlled lamp socket. I straightened the diode out, and moved the lamp socket a bit so it is not so close to the switch. This appears to have solved the problem, the switch is no longer racking up credits.
Also, as per ss-pinball's advice, I will be installing caps on all of the star rollover switches. I only have (2) total currently on the star rollover switches. Thanks again, mk

Nice! Glad you got it solved. Sounds like a short to ground was the culprit.

#1293 64 days ago

Heads up. CPR repro FG PF's are getting cleared now. Look for them in couple weeks.

#1294 64 days ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Heads up. CPR repro FG PF's are getting cleared now. Look for them in couple weeks.

I'll be in on one! This is great news!

#1295 63 days ago

Ha ! You beat me to it. Im looking for a restored one or really nice example in the NY area. For sale or trade.

#1296 62 days ago

Hey I posted in VID1900’s forum on upgrading flippers and I want to upgrade my Flash Gordon project as I restore it to the newer non-linear flippers....

Anyone upgrade their flippers using VID1900’s guide?

Can you tell me what you purchased exactly? How it worked out any issues? I want to upgrade all three flippers...

Any help would be appreciated...

#1297 62 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Hey I posted in VID1900’s forum on upgrading flippers and I want to upgrade my Flash Gordon project as I restore it to the newer non-linear flippers....

Not trying to be negative but installing Williams flippers on a classic Bally is not "restore to newer non-linear flippers". It's a hack to avoid future maintenance on a location game that would see many thousands of plays.

IMHO, there is absolutely no reason to not just install fresh linear flipper mechanics. The game will play fantastic and remain authentic to its original design.

Of course, it's your game so do what you want with it.

#1298 62 days ago

Just for my own education, what’s a linear vs non-linear flipper?

#1299 62 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Not trying to be negative but installing Williams flippers on a classic Bally is not "restore to newer non-linear flippers". It's a hack to avoid future maintenance on a location game that would see many thousands of plays.
IMHO, there is absolutely no reason to not just install fresh linear flipper mechanics. The game will play fantastic and remain authentic to its original design.
Of course, it's your game so do what you want with it.

Trust me I respect your opinion but I have to buy all new stuff (it was a $300 project FG - the mechs were removed, even the plates) and VID1900 recommended it just because it is a tighter more modern feel. I did it before on a Gorgar and it made a huge difference for an older game. I have owned more Williams than Bally pins so linear flippers are just different and I have to buy everything anyway I was just going to try and upgrade it as much as I can with modern stuff. It will not be an original FG, I will have a hardtop on it, new stencils, new LED displays. I took this on as a COVID project to keep myself busy and engaged in something I enjoy doing.

If you read VID1900's forum on the upgrade all kinds of Pinsiders upgraded all kinds of machines, just think it is worth a try on Flash Gordon.

#1300 62 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Trust me I respect your opinion but I have to buy all new stuff (it was a $300 project FG - the mechs were removed, even the plates) and VID1900 recommended it just because it is a tighter more modern feel. I did it before on a Gorgar and it made a huge difference for an older game. I have owned more Williams than Bally pins so linear flippers are just different and I have to buy everything anyway I was just going to try and upgrade it as much as I can with modern stuff. It will not be an original FG, I will have a hardtop on it, new stencils, new LED displays. I took this on as a COVID project to keep myself busy and engaged in something I enjoy doing.
If you read VID1900's forum on the upgrade all kinds of Pinsiders upgraded all kinds of machines, just think it is worth a try on Flash Gordon.

New mechs will make a huge difference on an older game for sure, whether they are Williams or Classic Bally.

I'm just saying you're going through the trouble of restoring the PF, etc. I think you'll find a new set of Bally flipper mechs will play awesome and keep the game "authentic" in feel. I just finished my FG project with new Bally mechs and there is zero issue with flipper strength, etc. Also, if I were looking to buy a nicely restored FG such as yours will be once it is done, I'd count Williams flippers as a negative and replace them with Ballys or avoid the deal for that reason.

Anyway, I don't have any info on your original question so I'll butt out now.

Good luck with your project.

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