(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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There are 2,789 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 56.
#1201 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

Yeah, only does it when down. I cleaned and repositioned it awhile back and the issue resolved for a few weeks. There's quite a bit of wear and some rust (apparently) which I can only do so much about. It seems likes it's easy for it to contact and then gap by a fraction of an inch of movement, thus leading to this problem. It just looks like replacing switches is a bit more tedious work than I'm used to doing (I have less experience with the electrical stuff), so I was curious for people's take on working on these things.

It’s pretty easy to do. Just need to know how to solder. My recollection is that that switch is in an easily accessible place, so I don’t think you need to remove anything except for the switch itself. Just remember to use a heat sink on the diode when desoldering and resoldering it so you don’t damage it. And keep track of the direction it faces so you don’t cause other problems.

#1202 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It’s pretty easy to do. Just need to know how to solder. My recollection is that that switch is in an easily accessible place, so I don’t think you need to remove anything except for the switch itself. Just remember to use a heat sink on the diode when desoldering and resoldering it so you don’t damage it. And keep track of the direction it faces so you don’t cause other problems.

What's a heat sink and how does it work? And yes the switch is easy to get at. Comfortable soldering. How does one de-solder? I assumed I'd just be cutting something.

#1203 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

once it's dropped, it keeps making the blasting sound and awarding 10k points with the slightest agitation of the machine (flipping, nudging etc). annoying from a sound standpoint, but also totally screws up accurate scoring. i have done my best to clean the contact and to reposition the blades on the switch.

Quoted from UNCgump:

Yeah, only does it when down. I cleaned and repositioned it awhile back and the issue resolved for a few weeks. There's quite a bit of wear and some rust (apparently) which I can only do so much about. It seems likes it's easy for it to contact and then gap by a fraction of an inch of movement, thus leading to this problem. It just looks like replacing switches is a bit more tedious work than I'm used to doing (I have less experience with the electrical stuff), so I was curious for people's take on working on these things.

Is it possible that the gold contacts are slightly loose?
I would gently clinch the two gold contacts.

#1204 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is it possible that the gold contacts are slightly loose?
I would gently clinch the two gold contacts.

Or maybe someone sanded them in the past and damaged the plating?

#1205 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

What's a heat sink and how does it work? And yes the switch is easy to get at. Comfortable soldering. How does one de-solder? I assumed I'd just be cutting something.

You don't need a heat sink to change out a switch. Just Use a soldering iron and heat the tabs that the wire is soldered to on the switch. They should pop right off.

#1206 3 years ago
Quoted from UNCgump:

What's a heat sink and how does it work? And yes the switch is easy to get at. Comfortable soldering. How does one de-solder? I assumed I'd just be cutting something.

Heat sink:

https://www.amazon.com/Amplified_Parts-Heat-Sink/dp/B009VNUZYS

Put it on the leg of the diode that you are soldering or desoldering to take up some of the heat before it gets to the diode.

To desolder, you heat the metal lug and use a solder sucker to take out the solder. Just a bulb like device that takes solder away by suction.

#1207 3 years ago

Why would you suck the solder off an old switch that your going to throw away. The diode should always be replaced when using a new switch. At a few cents each its not worth removing it and reusing. Just sayin.

#1208 3 years ago

Interesting! Thanks guys! I'm finally wading into the nitty gritty of pinball repair...a 40 year-old machine will do that.

#1209 3 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Why would you suck the solder off an old switch that your going to throw away. The diode should always be replaced when using a new switch. At a few cents each its not worth removing it and reusing. Just sayin.

I reuse diodes if there’s nothing wrong with them. But, yeah, either way will work.

#1210 3 years ago

Hello Saviors Club. I have been at work restoring the cabinet for my FG #8396, and I'm finally ready to start putting it together again. I need help and advice on how to proceed. Please help if you can.

My original playfield was changed to a new CPR playfield over 8 years ago. I did not do the changeover. I paid someone to do it; I didn't have a playfield jig or a proper place to do the work. The new playfield has never been tested in the machine yet. It was stored in a dry heated closet in bubble wrap for the past 8+/- years. I wanted to restore the cabinet before putting in the new playfield. Repainting the cabinet was my "stay at home" activity over the past month or so.

I think some of my star rollovers need the clear cleaned out of them; they don't seem to want to go in all the way. What is the best way to clean these out, and should I do it with the playfield out of the cabinet?

Also, the new CPR playfield has never actually been plugged into the cabinet yet. What things should I check before plugging the playfield in? My boards were all fully working 8 years ago when they were stored with the new CPR playfield. I'm nervous about plugging it in.

I appreciate any advice you can offer! Thank You!

Also, thanks F2k for helping explain my coin door / volume pot

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#1211 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Hello Saviors Club. I have been at work restoring the cabinet for my FG #8396, and I'm finally ready to start putting it together again. I need help and advice on how to proceed. Please help if you can.
My original playfield was changed to a new CPR playfield over 8 years ago. I did not do the changeover. I paid someone to do it; I didn't have a playfield jig or a proper place to do the work. The new playfield has never been tested in the machine yet. It was stored in a dry heated closet in bubble wrap for the past 8+/- years. I wanted to restore the cabinet before putting in the new playfield. Repainting the cabinet was my "stay at home" activity over the past month or so.
I think some of my star rollovers need the clear cleaned out of them; they don't seem to want to go in all the way. What is the best way to clean these out, and should I do it with the playfield out of the cabinet?
Also, the new CPR playfield has never actually been plugged into the cabinet yet. What things should I check before plugging the playfield in? My boards were all fully working 8 years ago when they were stored with the new CPR playfield. I'm nervous about plugging it in.
I appreciate any advice you can offer! Thank You!
Also, thanks F2k for helping explain my coin door / volume pot
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Top playfield:
Missing aluminum brass coated one-way lamp cover, by Mings head.
D/T rubber rings should be doubled.

#1212 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Top playfield:
Missing aluminum brass coated one-way lamp cover, by Mings head.

Expand on this please, I might be missing a piece

#1213 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Expand on this please, I might be missing a piece

OEM Flash Gordons had a lamp cover on the top playfield.
Mings head T.V. plastic. the G.I. lamp was not to cast light on the top side of the plastic.
Bally Flip Flop has the covers and so does Space Invaders...Undocumented part.
Use a plastic tube shield and paint it half black and slip over lamp.

#1214 3 years ago

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
See the lamp covers...

#1215 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Hello Saviors Club. I have been at work restoring the cabinet for my FG #8396, and I'm finally ready to start putting it together again. I need help and advice on how to proceed. Please help if you can.
My original playfield was changed to a new CPR playfield over 8 years ago. I did not do the changeover. I paid someone to do it; I didn't have a playfield jig or a proper place to do the work. The new playfield has never been tested in the machine yet. It was stored in a dry heated closet in bubble wrap for the past 8+/- years. I wanted to restore the cabinet before putting in the new playfield. Repainting the cabinet was my "stay at home" activity over the past month or so.
I think some of my star rollovers need the clear cleaned out of them; they don't seem to want to go in all the way. What is the best way to clean these out, and should I do it with the playfield out of the cabinet?
Also, the new CPR playfield has never actually been plugged into the cabinet yet. What things should I check before plugging the playfield in? My boards were all fully working 8 years ago when they were stored with the new CPR playfield. I'm nervous about plugging it in.

I also swapped in a CPR playfield. On mine there was quite a bit of clear in the rollover inserts. Honestly that was the most work of the whole swap. Check each one that the star piece goes down completely flush. If they don't the ball will change direction a bit when moving slowly over them. Rather than risk damage, I would snip the star piece bottom nipple off and pull the stars out and get new ones. Use one of them as a test piece, you need at least one as you will be dropping in it and out of each hole 100's of times. They need to drop down fully and not even remotely get stuck, ever. That takes a fair bit of work to achieve. I could only get so much clear out. In the end I scalloped a little off the bottom of the star pieces ribs in around the post to get them all to drop down fully.

As for plugging it all in, I have the playfield out of the machine and right next to the cabinet on a towel on a platform. Start by plugging in the boards and having the cabinet switches connected. This lets you see the displays working, you can add credits, go into test mode. Make sure that all works first. You can start a game and I think FG will make game starting noises.

Then try plugging the switch connectors first on their own. Power up the machine, check all switches, then unplug the switches. Power off, try the lights, power up, check what is happening. Assume lots of adjusting will be required.

Finally, I plug in the solenoid harnesses on their own. Just a brief power up. You can do the solenoid test even without switches or lights. Listen for solenoids that do not fire, listen for odd noises. I turn the game sound down low so I know it has not done something weird but low enough you could hear weird stuff. On my machine, I got a puff of smoke near the upper playfield where a bare GI wire touched a hot solenoid line which was actually something related to my swap. I saw a fuse glow then blow, so make sure the fused are all correct. Assuming that all works out, I add switches and lights back in and the game should be running. There is a possibility of a new failure happening when running everything where in isolation everything worked.

The switches and lights are low risk, very unlikely to hurt something. The solenoids are a bit of a pucker moment but be attentive while doing it.

#1216 3 years ago

Thanks for the responses. I will try to get the lamp cover and I will double the rings on the DT's. I also really appreciate the advice on powering up. When this was done for me 8 years ago, I looked at the top of the PF and thought "how nice! the CPR PF looks so much better than my old worn out original PF".

So, I start taking a good look at the underside of the PF to begin working on the star rollovers.

WOW, I should have looked at the underside before! I am REALLY paranoid about plugging this in. Missing screws, a totally jacked up pop bumper, missing pop bumper mounting screws, I think I'm going to be sick. Bus wires frayed and all over the place, no heat shrink on soldered connections, uggghhhhh!

I spent a chunk ($1000, I believe) to have the changeover done, trusting that they would do a good job. I wish now I would have had a jig and the workspace and time to do it myself. Am I being too picky with this? Is this acceptable?

PLEASE advise how I should go about doing this. PLEASE feel free to call out problem areas you see.

I'm thinking of building myself a jig and just gradually going through the whole thing and trying to do it better than what I'm seeing here. Thanks much, mk

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#1217 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Thanks for the responses. I will try to get the lamp cover and I will double the rings on the DT's. I also really appreciate the advice on powering up. When this was done for me 8 years ago, I looked at the top of the PF and thought "how nice! the CPR PF looks so much better than my old worn out original PF".
So, I start taking a good look at the underside of the PF to begin working on the star rollovers.
WOW, I should have looked at the underside before! I am REALLY paranoid about plugging this in. Missing screws, a totally jacked up pop bumper, missing pop bumper mounting screws, I think I'm going to be sick. Bus wires frayed and all over the place, no heat shrink on soldered connections, uggghhhhh!
I spent a chunk ($1000, I believe) to have the changeover done, trusting that they would do a good job. I wish now I would have had a jig and the workspace and time to do it myself. Am I being too picky with this? Is this acceptable?
PLEASE advise how I should go about doing this. PLEASE feel free to call out problem areas you see.
I'm thinking of building myself a jig and just gradually going through the whole thing and trying to do it better than what I'm seeing here. Thanks much, mk
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's a shame someone took that much money and did that level of work. I just started redoing another FG if you need any reference pictures.

#1218 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Thanks for the responses. I will try to get the lamp cover and I will double the rings on the DT's. I also really appreciate the advice on powering up. When this was done for me 8 years ago, I looked at the top of the PF and thought "how nice! the CPR PF looks so much better than my old worn out original PF".
So, I start taking a good look at the underside of the PF to begin working on the star rollovers.
WOW, I should have looked at the underside before! I am REALLY paranoid about plugging this in. Missing screws, a totally jacked up pop bumper, missing pop bumper mounting screws, I think I'm going to be sick. Bus wires frayed and all over the place, no heat shrink on soldered connections, uggghhhhh!
I spent a chunk ($1000, I believe) to have the changeover done, trusting that they would do a good job. I wish now I would have had a jig and the workspace and time to do it myself. Am I being too picky with this? Is this acceptable?
PLEASE advise how I should go about doing this. PLEASE feel free to call out problem areas you see.
I'm thinking of building myself a jig and just gradually going through the whole thing and trying to do it better than what I'm seeing here. Thanks much, mk
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The problem with CPR playfields is that the plywood is to hard... OEM was pine with maple veneers.
**************************************************************************
The solid plywood makes the screws break.
When I did Bally playfield transfers, I would label and unsolder every thing...
I start with the basic components and work back up...
First, starting with the lamp sockets and buss wires test fit and then staple...
Next mount the main solenoid assemblies...
For Flash Gorden, I would concentrate on on all of the rollover buttons.
Then carefully straighten, test fit, predrill the switch stack holes...
***************************************************
TIP: I sometimes would use a free screw and dry soap to prethread the plywood so as to make it
easyer to mount the switch stacks.
***************************************************
Then the time has come, I set and dress the playfield wiring harness into the playfield...
Finally, solder all loose connections/lamp sockets etc,etc,etc,.. then plug into game and test
the switches/solenoids/lamps...

#1219 3 years ago

I see a lot of frayed bare GI wire and some spots where it was soldered together. The stray wires can touch things they should not. A good inspection should catch most of it. The old GI wire does fray especially where staples were. I see a lot of kinks where staples used to be. You want to make sure the GI wire is well secured so it cannot move. That missing bumper looks to have some wires running to it that could be loose. I bought an upholstery stapler with a long neck to be able to reach in to tight places. A playfield swap is a fiddly job to do right. A factory wiring job has nearly no shrink wrap or tape, they just tied things down to keep them apart.

Going back to my previous advice, doing the switches and lamps on their own is pretty risk free and I think you will find many items.

#1220 3 years ago

Thanks so much for the help and advice! So far I rebuilt the trashed pop bumper - as per Vid1900. Is there a reason that someone would tap the control lamp bus to power a pop bumper bulb? I thought these were to be GI and not controlled lamps. Could it have something to do with their installing these bulbs in the bumpers? One good thing, it appears they put in new lamp sockets in the pops and these kind of bulbs. Are they DC only LED's? hence tapping the controlled lamp bus?

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#1221 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Is there a reason that someone would tap the control lamp bus to power a pop bumper bulb?

The top pop bumper lamp is part of the feature controlled lamp set, not G.I.

FlashGordon_LDB (resized).pngFlashGordon_LDB (resized).png

#1222 3 years ago

Hi gang
Picking my FG up this week. Really excited to be joining this club, it’s been on my list for many a year.

Anyone know if and when playfield hard tops will be available or if they are where from. My google searches haven’t turned anything up.
Or even better, a CPR playfield.

Thanks guys

#1223 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Anyone know if and when playfield hard tops will be available or if they are where from. My google searches haven’t turned anything up.
Or even better, a CPR playfield.
Thanks guys

A couple of weeks ago someone was selling an FG hardtop on pinside. See post 1166 in this thread

#1224 3 years ago

Thanks mate. The advert is archived so guessing it sold. Thanks anyway

#1225 3 years ago

Thanks for the response. OK, the top pop is a feature lamp. Given how haphazard the changeover was, I thought this pop was incorrectly being tied to the feature lamp bus.

#1226 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Hi gang
Picking my FG up this week. Really excited to be joining this club, it’s been on my list for many a year.
Anyone know if and when playfield hard tops will be available or if they are where from. My google searches haven’t turned anything up.
Or even better, a CPR playfield.
Thanks guys

CPR will be releasing some soon (inside information).

#1227 3 years ago

I just picked up a Flash Gordon project and it came with a CPR playfield. I might not need to use it, so was wondering what they are worth at this point. Thanks for any info you can provide.

#1228 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I just picked up a Flash Gordon project and it came with a CPR playfield. I might not need to use it, so was wondering what they are worth at this point. Thanks for any info you can provide.

New CPR's will be in the $849-899 range. However the older silkscreened versions are worth more IMO having installed the new digital version PF's. But factor that with the hardtop FG which is beautiful in the $350 range.

#1229 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

New CPR's will be in the $849-899 range. However the older silkscreened versions are worth more IMO having installed the new digital version PF's. But factor that with the hardtop FG which is beautiful in the $350 range.

Awesome, thanks for the information. For those that have done a restore, I could also use some advice. I knew that the seller of my new machine had started getting ready for the swap. He took apart all the major mechs (drop targets, slings, etc.) and ran them through a polisher. The parts looks great , but it looks like he took all the parts and dumped them together. He had also mentioned that he had bought some extra parts as well from someone parting out a machine and it looks like those might have gotten mixed in too. In your opinion, how hard will it be to piece these back together? Fortunately I was able to find some detailed pics online of some of these mechs taken apart, but I'm a little worried. Is there anything I should be concerned about specifically with Flash Gordon? It seems like most of these parts are pretty standard for that era and it shouldn't be too hard to find schematics and pics on how to put these back together. Any advice is appreciated.

#1230 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

s there anything I should be concerned about specifically with Flash Gordon?

If your 1st time assembling a PF from scratch, it can be difficult. I just completely dissembled my FG PF, sanded it to bare wood, installed new rollover targets, leveled the inserts and shipped it to CPR to be re-stenciled. I would suggest installing new lamp sockets, Bally's were crap, new power braid too. I took over 50 detailed pics of the top and bottom of the PF to aid in my re-assembly. Can share any you need.

#1231 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Thanks mate. The advert is archived so guessing it sold. Thanks anyway

Mine. Sold

#1232 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

I took over 50 detailed pics of the top and bottom of the PF to aid in my re-assembly. Can share any you need.

If you're willing and able, others will find it very handy if you upload your pictures to the Flash Gordon machine gallery:

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/flash-gordon/gallery

#1233 3 years ago

A question for the group, the fuse F1 on the rectifier board in the bottom of the cabinet. Is that supposed to be a fast blow or slow blow 20 amp fuse? Not sure what happened as I am putting everything back together after a hardtop Install. Found it had a 15amp fast blow in it, so that is not correct

#1234 3 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

A question for the group, the fuse F1 on the rectifier board in the bottom of the cabinet. Is that supposed to be a fast blow or slow blow 20 amp fuse? Not sure what happened as I am putting everything back together after a hardtop Install. Found it had a 15amp fast blow in it, so that is not correct

If the fuse is for the G.I. then it is a 20Amp fast Blow.

#1235 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

If the fuse is for the G.I. then it is a 20Amp fast Blow.

Actually Gi is still working along with most coils. The insert lights and flippers are tied to that fuse evidently, as they are the only things that are dead.

#1236 3 years ago

20A fast. Check out ipdb.com for schematics. F1 is for the controlled lamps.

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#1237 3 years ago

Perfect, Thanks for the replies!

#1238 3 years ago

Shill post. I just dropped our latest podcast ( The Classic Pinball Podcast) on Flash Gordon. Enjoy!

#1239 3 years ago

Cool. I’ll check it out

#1240 3 years ago

This was another fun episode to make. Besides Flash Gordon we mentioned Future Spa in passing but mostly Flash Gordon and some of our usual hi-jinks.

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#1241 3 years ago

Back in August 2018 I purchased this Bally Flash Gordon outside of Stone Mountain GA from a family that had it in their basement since 1981, entertaining 3 generations of their family. They were getting ready to sell their house to move to an assisted living facility and I was lucky enough to be able to purchase it from them. It was complete and mostly working, but aside from a few issues and repairs done to it by a local distributor it was all original. Backglass was in perfect shape, cabinet was solid, but usual playfield wear for a Bally of this vintage. Plans were to get it playing 100% and enjoy it for a while, then do a full restoration. Here are the pics of when I first brought it home:

7491A07A-95DE-46F7-BB32-7B2FE55BD758.jpeg7491A07A-95DE-46F7-BB32-7B2FE55BD758.jpeg84F330B1-9EF7-4C21-9516-419F09CD467D.jpeg84F330B1-9EF7-4C21-9516-419F09CD467D.jpeg32BFBE7F-5CCA-43F1-A420-34041926D1B9.jpeg32BFBE7F-5CCA-43F1-A420-34041926D1B9.jpeg8D186EC2-B490-4E41-A697-C061498236B9.jpeg8D186EC2-B490-4E41-A697-C061498236B9.jpeg8D3FA6FC-A317-4DDA-AA6C-845F940B3296.jpeg8D3FA6FC-A317-4DDA-AA6C-845F940B3296.jpegDF986F77-A9A0-41BC-B869-9BE16DF829C8_1_201_a.jpegDF986F77-A9A0-41BC-B869-9BE16DF829C8_1_201_a.jpegBAB9ABB6-E35E-4115-BD75-ABF93399A9E5_1_201_a.jpegBAB9ABB6-E35E-4115-BD75-ABF93399A9E5_1_201_a.jpeg87A484C5-708F-4B33-AAC7-6E8F41554B07_1_201_a.jpeg87A484C5-708F-4B33-AAC7-6E8F41554B07_1_201_a.jpegC839E4A4-FF27-48C9-8EF3-B031237E3585.jpegC839E4A4-FF27-48C9-8EF3-B031237E3585.jpeg25EB7F83-9C9D-44FF-8143-74DA20951436.jpeg25EB7F83-9C9D-44FF-8143-74DA20951436.jpeg7889FB44-93F8-47C1-92B4-D15FA92FCC2B.jpeg7889FB44-93F8-47C1-92B4-D15FA92FCC2B.jpeg

#1242 3 years ago

Got the pin up and working 100%, rebuilt the mechanicals, and we enjoyed it for over a year, enjoying the challenge of a working Flash Gordon in your local leagues and tournaments. However last Thanksgiving it was time to restore it, so I started to dig in. Time to remove the playfield, cleanup underneath the playfield, and install the hardtop:

F5976D0B-C631-4AFD-A0C3-A8D69844CF2C.jpegF5976D0B-C631-4AFD-A0C3-A8D69844CF2C.jpeg323029FB-FA2C-4DA2-A01D-115182580E3F.jpeg323029FB-FA2C-4DA2-A01D-115182580E3F.jpeg5DA5D567-17BF-4E15-91D9-89624E252C91.jpeg5DA5D567-17BF-4E15-91D9-89624E252C91.jpeg396B4576-822B-4A67-BB74-CC107A36E9B7.jpeg396B4576-822B-4A67-BB74-CC107A36E9B7.jpeg28B49C04-68FB-4D04-A387-6FE351A0BA94.jpeg28B49C04-68FB-4D04-A387-6FE351A0BA94.jpeg75FF9612-6E5B-497F-B4B0-0DD4711640E0.jpeg75FF9612-6E5B-497F-B4B0-0DD4711640E0.jpegD2F41938-2C85-4466-B1EA-8D0D690E28C9.jpegD2F41938-2C85-4466-B1EA-8D0D690E28C9.jpeg5982E45D-495C-4627-92E5-9A01BEFAC9D9.jpeg5982E45D-495C-4627-92E5-9A01BEFAC9D9.jpegDB8E8D0F-6AA7-4F50-97C7-F71B44447512.jpegDB8E8D0F-6AA7-4F50-97C7-F71B44447512.jpeg0E9324E5-3F5A-4CA1-A140-82796CD6CD55.jpeg0E9324E5-3F5A-4CA1-A140-82796CD6CD55.jpeg74DC6BA9-CEAB-4F86-80AB-1EF0ED6D3444.jpeg74DC6BA9-CEAB-4F86-80AB-1EF0ED6D3444.jpeg62963FB2-1A01-4228-AEA9-0F79B792E269.jpeg62963FB2-1A01-4228-AEA9-0F79B792E269.jpeg1D9E6684-EA5A-47F0-A8C6-D6B64C4CECDA.jpeg1D9E6684-EA5A-47F0-A8C6-D6B64C4CECDA.jpegE2294912-F718-4865-897F-C4F27FA8125D.jpegE2294912-F718-4865-897F-C4F27FA8125D.jpegC9A056A4-3DBF-4532-9D53-DE4E29BDF24E.jpegC9A056A4-3DBF-4532-9D53-DE4E29BDF24E.jpegD0D5FCBB-AABE-4665-870E-9D6700C7B9B1.jpegD0D5FCBB-AABE-4665-870E-9D6700C7B9B1.jpeg7603EB45-F981-49EB-B9D1-453139BD36DC.jpeg7603EB45-F981-49EB-B9D1-453139BD36DC.jpegB68E1DA6-58AA-4E74-84AE-8879D45D944B.jpegB68E1DA6-58AA-4E74-84AE-8879D45D944B.jpeg71979321-F2D6-4467-9D9B-C234A11FBC26.jpeg71979321-F2D6-4467-9D9B-C234A11FBC26.jpegFA08CF12-FB42-4714-8F2D-03FB225AFCEE.jpegFA08CF12-FB42-4714-8F2D-03FB225AFCEE.jpegDB59B282-09DF-4FFD-B507-A2DC50B30E0C.jpegDB59B282-09DF-4FFD-B507-A2DC50B30E0C.jpeg
#1243 3 years ago

Once the playfield was done it was time to start the cabinet. Structurally it was solid, just 30+ years of wear, tear, and fade from 3 generations of kids playing with it. Stripped it down, did some minor fiberglass work on the back edge, and then painted it in my homemade temporary spray booth using PinballPimp stencils. I also took all the metal armor, legs, and coin door off to a powdercoater to get refinished.

40BBB4D6-644A-4F3C-9380-7A8EA6F3094A.jpeg40BBB4D6-644A-4F3C-9380-7A8EA6F3094A.jpegB98BAE24-3EFA-4BBB-BDEF-B81BEB1A7D5C.jpegB98BAE24-3EFA-4BBB-BDEF-B81BEB1A7D5C.jpegFCAB66B0-865D-4279-A608-DD2D71A27516.jpegFCAB66B0-865D-4279-A608-DD2D71A27516.jpeg923FCFE8-9CBD-40F0-A473-BE13ECF2886F.jpeg923FCFE8-9CBD-40F0-A473-BE13ECF2886F.jpeg2F9EF955-8737-492A-A384-ED6934921ED0.jpeg2F9EF955-8737-492A-A384-ED6934921ED0.jpeg5A6B3C7B-5AC9-460E-A909-BBF2706147CF.jpeg5A6B3C7B-5AC9-460E-A909-BBF2706147CF.jpeg7A5ACD3B-3619-4ED1-A260-4B53922D6E42.jpeg7A5ACD3B-3619-4ED1-A260-4B53922D6E42.jpegF73C4438-EFCE-441B-A6CD-9F1A22483706.jpegF73C4438-EFCE-441B-A6CD-9F1A22483706.jpeg84FCF7B1-F7FF-4024-A35F-C890A55165F0.jpeg84FCF7B1-F7FF-4024-A35F-C890A55165F0.jpeg64150283-E3E6-4C96-ADC9-FE22414FCCAA.jpeg64150283-E3E6-4C96-ADC9-FE22414FCCAA.jpeg7E5AEF03-2047-4FAB-A730-E29CB0F14B8B.jpeg7E5AEF03-2047-4FAB-A730-E29CB0F14B8B.jpeg8DFF2091-E86B-4706-905A-6F6D74A51264.jpeg8DFF2091-E86B-4706-905A-6F6D74A51264.jpeg651DDCC2-6E21-4B93-9707-CE84AC3584A2.jpeg651DDCC2-6E21-4B93-9707-CE84AC3584A2.jpeg5DE45A82-FC47-4AF5-87C9-FB9957A2809A.jpeg5DE45A82-FC47-4AF5-87C9-FB9957A2809A.jpeg2B03A194-D7A3-433F-A325-8EA27399CBA6.jpeg2B03A194-D7A3-433F-A325-8EA27399CBA6.jpeg12E588E0-4097-412F-85F3-A48784010ADF.jpeg12E588E0-4097-412F-85F3-A48784010ADF.jpeg77282FFF-B602-4F71-95E6-470F3E72F923.jpeg77282FFF-B602-4F71-95E6-470F3E72F923.jpegF805DAF9-8880-4B9A-BC62-55AC0FEDEF6E.jpegF805DAF9-8880-4B9A-BC62-55AC0FEDEF6E.jpegA53B4B0A-9128-4002-B3D8-BD68A431F06D.jpegA53B4B0A-9128-4002-B3D8-BD68A431F06D.jpeg35C41D4D-D6E8-4111-92CD-FA7487CF50C7.jpeg35C41D4D-D6E8-4111-92CD-FA7487CF50C7.jpeg9E6C23EC-58B4-4296-87A6-C9F303686F98.jpeg9E6C23EC-58B4-4296-87A6-C9F303686F98.jpeg863FF74A-B16A-416E-9A3B-7EDEF1FA2D34.jpeg863FF74A-B16A-416E-9A3B-7EDEF1FA2D34.jpegE03BA66F-0BE2-4026-800F-24AF7352DD15.jpegE03BA66F-0BE2-4026-800F-24AF7352DD15.jpeg
#1244 3 years ago

Today I finished final assembly the pin. Here are all the final details:

- Cabinet full restoration with PinballPimp Stencils
- Nocturnal Gold powdercoated armor
- Original Backglass and score displays
- Hardtop playfield with custom clear inserts
- Ballguides re-plated
- All mechanicals rebuilt
- All switches and lightsockets replaced
- Comet Warm White LEDs on GI, color LEDs on inserts
- New Repro playfield apron
- CPR playfield Plastics
- Reese's rails
- Cliffy's replacement ramps
- New Alltek boards
- S&T Soundboard rebuilt by Clive at Coin-op Cauldron
- Titan Clear Silicone Rubbers
- Inkochnito replacement cards and coil wrapper templates

Quick highlight video can be seen here:


1BE0CBEC-32E5-4D38-8466-D33FB7838736.jpeg1BE0CBEC-32E5-4D38-8466-D33FB7838736.jpeg54D7D3EB-9E7D-47C3-8927-10868D502CDF.jpeg54D7D3EB-9E7D-47C3-8927-10868D502CDF.jpeg6BCCF75E-FF83-42FE-B79F-7D9E46BDF7F8.jpeg6BCCF75E-FF83-42FE-B79F-7D9E46BDF7F8.jpeg1D0C3BF0-D4F8-476D-A77D-B4E154815AE7.jpeg1D0C3BF0-D4F8-476D-A77D-B4E154815AE7.jpeg93319782-D6D2-42FE-B748-8E1CA4372516.jpeg93319782-D6D2-42FE-B748-8E1CA4372516.jpegFBC9F03B-703F-4BDB-AD07-7301EE0355B1.jpegFBC9F03B-703F-4BDB-AD07-7301EE0355B1.jpeg6FC741AE-A267-431C-BC03-73D0C1F1C3DC.jpeg6FC741AE-A267-431C-BC03-73D0C1F1C3DC.jpeg26E9AF14-826D-4A0A-B77B-23702913F7EB.jpeg26E9AF14-826D-4A0A-B77B-23702913F7EB.jpeg9F7FAB77-380B-44A8-A76A-9836F396413D.jpeg9F7FAB77-380B-44A8-A76A-9836F396413D.jpeg3A415681-AB9A-4F9B-93F0-FAED55367426.jpeg3A415681-AB9A-4F9B-93F0-FAED55367426.jpeg466E07DF-3294-43A4-8F2F-C721762EC3D3.jpeg466E07DF-3294-43A4-8F2F-C721762EC3D3.jpegA47957D5-4B59-4C58-81D4-51626181F473.jpegA47957D5-4B59-4C58-81D4-51626181F473.jpegBA30699E-0EE7-47CB-B7FD-F8CD3ECF515E.jpegBA30699E-0EE7-47CB-B7FD-F8CD3ECF515E.jpeg

#1245 3 years ago

Awesome job!

#1246 3 years ago

Still looking for a Flash Gordon project...
even a populated playfield with harness would work...
I was offered one (pop. playfield) by Robotworkshop almost a year ago.
I passed. (Stupid mistake on my part).
He sold it on Craigslist in the Metro Detroit area...

Anyone on here buy it from him?

Anyone know of another one? (I don't care if it is blown out...probably going to hard top it anyway).

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

#1247 3 years ago

I'm super-excited to have just joined the club! I recently purchased a Flash Gordon project that was part way though restoration. All the mechs had been taken off the machine, taken apart, and run through a tumbler. The backglass is in nice shape, the cab is okay, and the playfield is a wreck. The good news is that it came with a brand new CPR repro playfield. I have started taking stock of the piles of parts in various boxes and trying to figure out what I have. I was able to put most of the major mechs back together, but I still have a pile of parts that I'm not sure where they go. I've done a lot of staring at Flash Gordon playfield pics, and some of these pieces are still confusing. I'm hoping you guys can help me out. If you recognize any of these parts, I would really appreciate knowing where they go (see numbers). I'm pretty sure that #1 are just part of various stand up target switch stacks. Not sure what the biggest one goes to though. I think #2 is just an extra coil holder. I'd really appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks!

20200618_165427 (resized).jpg20200618_165427 (resized).jpg20200618_165446 (resized).jpg20200618_165446 (resized).jpg20200618_165609 (resized).jpg20200618_165609 (resized).jpg
#1248 3 years ago

#5 go across drop target banks.

#7 is for the single drop. It’s the adjustable plate at the bottom of the mech

#6 is the brackets for the apron, connected to the playfield

#1249 3 years ago

I’ve got all my tear down pics on photobucket (I know, they suck. I wish I could get the pics off that site).

If you’d like to look through them send me a pm

#1250 3 years ago

Just purchased a project hopefully will be able to find a reproduction playfield. Someone has changed the original Bally transformers. Was going to use for parts but too good for that. The backglass is best part of the game.

IMG_3083 (resized).JPGIMG_3083 (resized).JPGIMG_3092 (resized).JPGIMG_3092 (resized).JPGIMG_3094 (resized).JPGIMG_3094 (resized).JPGIMG_3095 (resized).JPGIMG_3095 (resized).JPGIMG_3096 (resized).JPGIMG_3096 (resized).JPGIMG_3098 (resized).JPGIMG_3098 (resized).JPGIMG_3099 (resized).JPGIMG_3099 (resized).JPG
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